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Good Question, but before any one of the many experts can respond you both must agree on what is your objective. Get running and enjoy. Rebuild, show and drive. Other. Why was the engine pulled? Did the car run or was their a problem? While the engine is out, and I assume the Trans.; Take and inventory to see what is there and what's not. Inspect the Trans. gears and see if all turns O.K. Inspect the braking system. Remove the interior stuff including the seats to inspect cockpit. From there it depends on what you two decide you... MORE
Welcome Sue, To add to Bob's suggestions. Often oxidation on electrical connections is a major problem with cars that are old and particularly if they have sat for long periods of time. There are many spade wire connectors on the backs of switches, gauges, lamps and the wiring harness has many bullet in line connectors, in black insulation tubes. At minimum pull off and push spade connectors back on, or bullet inline connectors apart and back together several times to break the surface crud. Spray with some WD40 before and after you do this. If they look very oxidized... MORE
I'd guess a little clutch drag, just slight, so it can be overcome by the syncros. Possibly a warped pressure plate or clutch disc. Maybe wear in the t/o brg or other mechanical parts. "Jeffrey Holmes" 24471... MORE
In the process of checking out the clutch slave cylinder linkage I reached up to move aside the ground strap a bit to have a better view. The strap is from the lower clutch slave cylinder bolt to the chassis frame, the normal original configuration. It appeared to be a full strap, although covered with oil and dirt as they often are. A gentle push and it moved aside in two pieces, only a few strands were left under the dirt and oil and they parted under the least amount of pressure . . . Nothing can be taken... MORE
Hi Don, This could be the clutch, but I don't think so. If it were, you have some trouble, even if only occasionally, with second or one of the synchro gears as well. What you describe is probably caused by you first motion shaft continuing to spin even when the clutch is disengaged. With no synchro, there is nothing to slow the spinning non-synchro gear. My interpretation is that the first motion shaft is kept spinning by the pilot bushing or bearing. Could be a burred up bearing/bush (some 1275's has a phosphor bronze bushing, some had a needle... MORE
Hi Don May... Xmission operation sounds perfectly normal to me Don May. First and/or reverse can be difficult to engage in these boxi from time to time as only 2,3 & 4 are synchronized. To "stop" all action in the box prior to attempting to engage 1st or reverse, shift into second initially, then go to first or reverse from second gear rather than from neutral. This will do the trick 99% of the time. It is not unusual to occassionally have a problem getting into first or reverse even with the above method. Just don't force it....simply go... MORE
After some thought here is what I think, since you have no problems with any gear when the car is not running, and the only link to the engine from the transmission is the CLUTCH than I say its the clutch . You have no problems starting the car in first or reverse and you can drive the car in first and reverse so the transmission must be OK or at least in good shape. It takes a good clutch release to engage 1st and reverse. Just a logical thought... good luck . crfkingfish@... 24457... MORE
Thanks for all the feedback guys. Gerard, what you are saying about the first motion shaft continuing to spin makes sense as when the clutch is disengaged it sounds like there is still a lot of spinning of the gears in the transmission when I try to shift into first while at a dead stop. The car is still on a non-op registration so have not had a chance to take it out for any higher speed runs to see if things loosen up. Don "Don May" 24461... MORE
I would bet on Synco in the tranny. Bill French Hilton Head '59 Bugeye '73 RWA frenchww@... 24455... MORE
I have a transmission problem, or clutch, and would like some feedback on what I should look for as the possible problems. It is in the 73 rwa, 1275, ribcase trans. It was not driven for about a year prior to my purchasing it. I have trouble shifting into first and reverse most of the time with the engine running, then for brief periods of time strangely it will shift fine into first and reverse without any gear noise. I have bled the clutch lines and it looks like the travel at the slave is enough to disengage the... MORE
It took me 14 months after I bought my Bugeye, BUT, the P.O. had stripped and primed the car, had the engine, transmission, and rear end rebuilt. All I had to do was paint, find seats, (recover) and totaly assemble the car. Bob. Troutdale, OR USA "Robert Webb" 24401... MORE
Well I've gone and done it..the '60 is coming apart. Engine and trans are out in preparation of a complete refurb. At the very least this will include new inner and outer sills, maybe floors and possibly rear spring boxes. Paint will be redone and interior gone thru. I have a 1275 and ribcase waiting to be rebuilt and installed, along with Weber sidedraft etc. I am seeking suggestions on cams, porting and header. This will be a "quick" street car, neither a daily driver nor a "road racer." Any advice will be appreciated. At this point my proposed... MORE
Hi again: Thanks to all those that helped answer some questions I had about the carpet, that was most useful. I found that I have snaps on the footwell carpet and the trans tunnel. Question: The rear wheel arch cover pieces seem to have a small vinyl pad sewn into them. I assume this is a wear pad for the top frame? Or could I have placed this piece in the wrong spot??? They sure seem to belong there. Can someone tell me if there is a vinyl pad on theirs? Thanks Rio "Rio Rafael" 24319... MORE
Whooooooooooo This is going to be an interesting thread. As far as BMIHT Trace certificates are concerned heres the details from mine, I've blanked out the numbers with X's for security reasons. Production Trace Certificate Number 92/6157 MG Midget Mark III Car/Chassis No. G-AN5/8660X-G Engine No. 12CE-DA-H/XXXXX Body No. 67XXX Specification: RHD, Home market Colour Exterior: Blue Royale Colour Trim: Black Colour Hood: Black Date built: 18 May - 2 June 1970 Date despatched: 8 June 1970 Destination Dealer: University Motors Limited, London Other Numbers Gearbox, 56XXX, Rear axle 14XXX Key numbers: FS.XXX, FS.XXX Details of Equipment: Wire Wheels,... MORE
OK, the area around the spring boxes on the MK1 while physically solid has had patches of steel welded over other patches over the years, and the whole area including the rear inner arch and the reinforcement running round the boot floor like a chassis rail is quiet simply a mess, the whole lot needs cutting out and replacing. Now many years ago my dad and myself cut up a frogeye, and I have had to repair this area on my 1500 shell, and I can tell you one thing for certain, the 1500 shell has within the triangulated... MORE
Fully restored and "modernized" Traveller for sale. Power assisted disc brakes completely rebuilt Nissan/Datsun A14 and 5 speed new hydraulics (both brake and clutch) New Ash framing Much, much more. Great looker, reliable and fun transportation. Located in San Francisco Ca. for more details. see links at: http://www.gerardsgarage.com/FS_Garage.htm email me offlist at pixelsmith@... gerard 24175... MORE
G'day Brad The valve stem diameters are the same. You can squeeze 1275cc valves into a 1098cc head (12G295) if you want to, but you will need to open the combustion chamber up quite a bit to allow gas flow around the valve, or you are defeating the purpose. Really no great advantage. 1275cc head will fit on 1098cc block, but if you have a high lift cam, and/or 1.5:1 rockers, the exhaust valves will hit the top of the block face. You will need to machine a crescent out of the block, up to .100" deep (I just... MORE
The overdrive is a seperate unit on the rear of the gearbox so in theory could work on all 4 gears, but there is no point in having an overdrive first is there ;-) !! There is a lock-out to prevent it selecting overdrive when in first or second. The "snatch" on the ratio change would be too great at the lower ratios and probably end up in stripping something. Guy "Guy Weller" 24084... MORE
Yes Cap'n Bob, I use the ford sierra 5spd in my current and when I had the 1500 I fitted a spitfire overdrive box. Both of them were DIY conversions That may be what Robbie was referring to when he said he had seen something like that on a web site. My description of fitting the 1500 O/D box used to be on the PDLJMPR site. Guy "Guy Weller" 24074... MORE
Well, Nigel... Your searching for something here but it's not about the 1500 or a correct way to modify or sort the handling on a car. With respect to the 1500, It's mostly all add-on stuff to the original type so the mfgs. could extend the life of the type while meeting later day safety standards. As such, all "earlier" prior specs and parts are available so it's not as though one is dealing with a new type. So, none of this is really rocket science as I am sure you know, though some bending here and there may... MORE
Good, Guy Weller! You're "the man", then! Rob sure will know where to go for the right answers in this respect, for sure then, should he have further questions. Before Rob mentioned it, I didn't even know Spitfires came with an overdrive transmission to begin with! :) This a single overdrive or is it like others in that it is effective on the top three gears? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24076... MORE
Cap'n Bob, Appreciate the insight. The last 1275 I drove was a 73 back in 1981. Didn't know jack about such cars so comparison's are impossible. I was planning to lower the rear of the car with a block arrangement that raises the rear axle where it attaches to the spring. Since fitting the new wheels and tires I'm not so sure about this. I had to do some sugery on the rear to eliminate the "tuck-in" flange for clearance. The front wheels were even worse. Had to raise the wheel cutout an inch. Will probably flair them. Do... MORE
Well, Rob... Vicky B. offers a rear spring lowering kit at a very reasonable price so you wouldn't be out much if this approach didn't work. I think the Ford Sierra 5 speed is what Guy Weller has used or is currently using....and.... .....refering to fellow spritester Daniel's handy, dandy informative book, we find (Pg. 63) that "Frontline Spridget, Ltd. has a sseparate kit, with special adapter plate that allows conversion to the Ford" Sierra 5 speed gearbox. On Pg. 144 Daniel further kindly provides: http://www.mgcars.org.uk/frontine Also, if the lowering blocks don't work you might try Motobuild, Ltd. for... MORE
We put the pan back onto the 1275, but cannot go further until I have the proper gaskets. I will not make them out of silicone!! So, in the interim, we took the 1098 apart. The problem we found, in the removing the frozen pistons, is that there are sleeves on the back two cylinders. One of the sleeves was moving when I was trying to pound the piston out. What holds the sleeve still? I want to build a motor for the Frogeye, to get it on the road, until the 1275 is built. I have two guys... MORE
Well, Rob... The one I drove was a '75 with about 30K on it at the time. It ran 50psi and ran pretty smoothly right up to 4.5k...I didn't take it any higher....not my car! Most engnes have a "vibration period" or two within their rev ranges. Nothing to worry about usually...they just normally run more smoothly at some rpm's within the range than they do at others. Turbine engines are the same way. My own '74 had been lowered 1" all around (quite the street rod!) so I really felt the height difference but the handling of this... MORE
