MAIN
Transmission
Previous Page | Next Page
It could be the lines that go from the transmission to the cooler. It is im portant to know if the leak is near the front, or the middle of the car, so that we can better guess the source. Brad "" 37452... MORE
My friend's 73 Midget was outfitted with stainless steel brake and clutch lines during his rebuild. (FInally nearing completion after 2 decades plus). Finally got the car on the ground again two weeks ago and were all hyped to see it move under it's own power for the first time in ages. NO GO. Stainless steel clutch line had a leak. I'm not nearly as sold on them as I was as this line was relatively new and completely unstressed. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 37440... MORE
Thanks, mitch. Your suggestion worked perfectly. Actually I just used a couple wire ties to hold the tranny up, and the engine slipped right back in - no sweat. (Sorry, Ed). I'd also like to put in a plug for a new-to-me parts supplier. When I had the engine sitting on the floor, I realized I should have ordered a new flywheel ring gear. The usual suspects - Moss, VB, MH are all three day's shipping from me, and I was anxious to get it back together, so I called Gordon at The B-Hive (800-652-4483) in Clemson, SC, just... MORE
1965 Austin-Healey Sprite MK3 The car was restored and put on the road in August of 04, it is rust free and solid. I have made many upgrades and changes. Some of the bigger changes are a Datsun 210 5spd transmission, an 1100cc engine. It has a new shiny black paint job with a new sexy red interior. Includes a few spare parts. It has very few miles on it. This is a fun little car. The top could use a little help and so could the Master cylinder. The car is located in Palm Bay, Florida. Please call... MORE
Since I have/Drive one of those un-civilised frogeye's, W/5 speed, I will take a stab at two of your questions, the RPM shouldn't be one of them because yesterday I was doing 70 at about 3500 RPM's. Your Oil Pressure sounds ok for a used engine. If during the 16 years it was down, you rebuilt it..... Not good. You might want to check the crankshaft bearings for excessive wear or the crank being oval. My 1275 runs 60-70 at 2-5,000 RPM, 50-60 psi at idle, but mine was rebuilt 1700 miles ago, not just the engine, the whole... MORE
I use a 1/4" drive, (Breaker Bar), 6" extension, and a 7/16" "crowfoot" with tubing style "C" shape. It is cheap, and puts you above the master cylinder to loosen the fittings. Most places that handle sockets & ratchets should know about them and have them. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 37323... MORE
Yep!! There you are! And at the going price considering the MiniMania/Hans Pedersen kits. More low/mid-range torque for street fun. Having driven a stock '67 1275 Spridget using 6psi boost, I can honestly say it is worth the 3k assuming you are go ing to keep the car. Probably one of the most worthwhile upgrades besides the Datsun 5 speed for those who want true "quick". 6psi is the lowest amount of "effective" boost (torque/heat) without unduly loading stock parts providing you don't over-rev the motor and resist the urge to constantly take it to the redline, bearing in... MORE
Interesting thoughts. However, I would think that a SC would provide better bottom end torque and drivability. I was thinking that $3000 is alot of money but later (when a rebuild is required) you could drop the compression ratio and up the boost for serious performance. I'm anxious to hear feedback from people who install the kit before shelling out $3000. trevorwj@... 37266... MORE
Just some off the wall thoughts. $3000 is a lot of money, and unless your engine is already in perfect condition, you would probably want to do an engine rebuild too, so you're at maybe $4500 ready to rock 'n roll. You could do a reworked head, cam, bigger carb, overbore, have less money in the job, just as much HP, and probably better bottom end torque. It like like a stock engine with the Moss SC should produce something like 90 HP. Lot of money for that, say $180 per HP, and that's without any clutch or rear... MORE
Having done this I concour, take the engine out with the gearbox attached.. life is much eaisier this way Stewart "Ford Prefect" 37254... MORE
Everyone seems to say it is easier to remove lump and tranny at the same time. Cheers, Bob in San Doiego (or somewhere like that_) "Robert D. Gardner" 37255... MORE
a piece of wire through the one of the top bolt holes in the tranny...slip the wire in just before the locating pin clears.... then just tie it off to whatever is handy.. like the heater box.... there is not a huge amount of weight to support.. mitch "prest_m" 37248... MORE
I've got to put a new clutch in my BE. Although the present one has done only 8000 miles, the center of the pressure plate has come loose (What do you call that part, the pressure pad?) Anyway, the question is this: I'm going to have to lift the engine (I'm leaving the tranny in the car), then roll the car out from under the engine. Any tips on supporting the tranny during this operation? I'm thinking about a temp support, maybe a piece of wood, screwed to the footwells. "joe blxfstz" 37246... MORE
The clutch throwout bearing on the 1275 is a carbon faced bearing, not a ball bearing like other cars, The carbon rides on the triangular shaped flat surface of the spring plate that holds the clutch plate the the flywheel. There are "kits" out there that allow the use of a ball bearing type throwout bearing with the stock clutch - perhaps this is causing your confusion? If you have a transmission convertion, you would most likely have a different throwout bearing. "Jim" 37236... MORE
Can anyone help ??? I am putting a new clutch on my spridget and purchased a clutch kit. All was ok until I compared the old and new thrust bearing. The new one seems to be missing what looks like a Race/bearing. (I have pictures if anyone thinks they can help) Thanks Kevin "bty388504" 37235... MORE
WEBER DCOE "air" screws They are not air screws. They are volume screws, the mixture for the idle circuit having been pre-set by your choice of idle (air/fuel combo) jet. 1.5 turns "out" is merely a starting point for setting. You may find your particular choice of idle jet runs best at only 1 turn out or even less. If you cannot find a setting which will work, you will have to change the idle jet for a less rich (weaker) one which may either consist of a smaller fuel aperature OR same fuel aperature with a larger air... MORE
I get it! With the engine running, put it in gear, let the clutch out, then get out and look under the car for the spinning drive shaft... Be sure and let us know how that one turns out...a wheel chock with hair? "Jim" 37220... MORE
If the half shaft has parted, the car may be rolling, the engine running, the clutch engaged, and the wheels turning but they are not connected to each other! Bob "Robert D. Gardner" 37219... MORE
The Organization Of Spridget Handymen in Transit got together yesterday to swap out Larry Macy's engine. Larry got a rebuilt (A wedding present? How thoughtful.) and it was about time to do the deed. Kevin and Rob Valentine, Phil Nase (?), Bill Gilroy and I showed up at Larry's. I understand that Frank Clarici had some problems on the way back from Carlisle so he couldn't make it. I'm sure Frank will fill us in. First we pulled the old engine and tranny, then Kevin and Larry timed the new cam and finished the reassembly. The rest of us... MORE
From those symptoms it could still be a half shaft, although clutch or tranny more likely. Check the easy stuff first. "joe blxfstz" 37201... MORE
Hey. If you're cabable of pulling the engine, you can certainly rebuild the tranny yourself. Get a book and go at it. It ain't rocket science. "joe blxfstz" 37194... MORE
Busted one on a MG-TC back in the 60s but hadn't thought about that since. I'll definitely check that before pulling the engine/tranny. Hmmmm. If it was the halfshaft, wonder why the gear shift did what it did? Lessee now... I tried to downshift into third and it didn't want to go into third gear. Kinda like there was no gear there at all. Then suddenly it went in so I let the clutch out and something goes bang. I'm still coasting along so I thought, "Well, it's popped out of gear" so I moved the gear change lever... MORE
Wait until you get it apart before you make any decision. If you're lucky it may be just a clutch problem, like the center broke out of the disc. Or maybe the flywheel bolts sheared off; although it sounds like a broken trans input shaft, which isn't too terribly serious. You can rebuild yours, or possibly find a good used one for a few hundred dollars, plus $200 for a new clutch set and related parts. Or you can spend the big bucks for a Datsun 5- speed. If you go the Datsun route, be sure to get a... MORE
Before you do anything drastic, maks sure you didn't twist off an axle shaft! (or u joint for that matter, but not likely, they make more noise). Almost same symptoms but a ton easier to fix. I would be pissed if I pulled the engine and tranny and found it was just fine. Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 37192... MORE
Hi, Over here in the UK I tend to leave the anti-freeze in, as it is also a summer coolant. If a heavy winter is expected, I increase the ratio of anti-freeze to water. As for the clunking sounds from the rear, I had this sort of noise from my Mk3 Midget. It turned out to be the diff. Sometimes filling it up with the appropriate oil/grease, the noise goes away for a bit. But eventually the diff. will need either a rebuild or be replaced, usually with a reconditioned one, as new ones tend to be rather expensive,... MORE
