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Got everything hooked up, but since it is below zero ouside with 8" of snow, I decided to give the car a bit of a test inside the shop. Am able to shift into each gear, but considerable force is needed. There is a very distinct "crunch" shifting into first and reverse, less so in reverse. The take-off in each gear is smooth, but when the car is in gear with the clutch depressed, there is a substantial amount of noise coming from the tranny area. The clutch begins to engage right as the pedal is being released. The... MORE
Agreed...I was just about to say, Guy W. Assuming correct length rods and correct parts... Spridget clutch systems are notorious for this initial behaviour after initial (and more than just initial!) bleeding. I once left the slave cylinder very slightly open overnight and while there was still more than sufficient fluid in the MC in the AM, it still needed bleeding and we still got air out of it. Real PITA! Used it for a week during which time the level in the MC required slight filling periodically and the pedal moved up off the floor and all was... MORE
What type of oil did you put in the trans? Are you sure the clutch is totally disengaging? "Trevor J." 28593... MORE
Castor Oil & Castrol (Castrol R) Got to admit, Dave, I've no clue 'cause I do not know whether the "early" Castrol Oils I grew up with in the late 50's & early 60's were vegetable oil or petroleum based, though I believe it was the later. And the Castrol's before that??? Castrol "R"....formulated for high rpm higher pressure, anti-foam, "racing" oil I would think but here again, not familiar the specific base or formula. But I bet Chuck Christ might know a little about the early Castrol Oils considering his Dad was in racing during Castrol's early days... MORE
Yeah... Vulcans are (were?) cool...thundrous as they shook the ground you were standing on. You could feel it "in your bones"!! As far as props go....radials...yeah... Besides the Merlin and later Sabre Napiers (Tempests, methinks?) the "choppy" radial (until they "turned up" at which time they began to sound almost "turbine" smooth) are also a favorite. But nothing (IMHO) beats the smell of castor oil and the staccato "brruppp, burrrup" of a rotary operating on a stick mounted ignition "kill switch" or button! :) Very kewl! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28500... MORE
G'day all I have also had a Pertronix kit where the magnet wasn't a snug fit on the shaft. You can't leave it loose (obviously!) as your timing will wander. But you certainly can stick it on with some insulation tape under it on the shaft. We actually gummed it on with Blu-tak and it works fine. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 28396... MORE
Thanks, Rex, I suspected not, but with a complete working 1500 transmission for sale nearby for $50.00 I had to ask. I don't need it but it's hard to pass up what looks like a bargain. Don "Don May" 28381... MORE
Hi gang, What is the difference between a 1275 and a 1500 transmission? Are they interchangeable? Don "Don May" 28371... MORE
My kind of Garage! Could have cat swings, slides, and roundabouts! Oh and a nice clutch of tasty cars! R "Roger Stinson" 28358... MORE
Steve Woohoo! Many congrats. I don't think I am ahead of you Steve, I'm just finishing off the final primer coats on the passenger side wing ready for colour - that will be the last 'bit' on the car that needs to be colour coated. I still have both doors, bootlid and bonnet to colour coat as well. I don't know if you have this book or not - 'Restoring Sprites and Midgets - an Enthusiasts Guide' by Grahame Bristow (Brooklands Books) but it really is a very useful book in terms of reassembly. It's been written with the... MORE
Alan I remember that Bakers Soldering Fluid - wonderful stuff, it was kinda hard to get the solder to stick unless you used that Bakers stuff. I haven't seen it around for ages either sadly. N "amukdigiphoto" 28236... MORE
You are right, David. I must have had a senior moment in my memory as I just looked at the price list and see that I paid 481 pounds or $1355 for my export model Sprite. I'll be paying almost that much to replace the four speed original tranny with a five speed. Nelson "Nelson Wittstock" 28181... MORE
If the 1inch travel is the full distance that the pedal is able to move through, this would be a BAD thing, And either: the pedal is starting very close to the floor before the clutch begins to disengage, or the pedal starts high, but is prevented from full travel by the slave cylinder piston hitting the circlip or other faults with the linkage. Guy "Guy Weller" 28087... MORE
G'day Paul et al The travel at the slave cylinder end depends on: a.. the length of the clutch pedal from pivot point to the pedal pad (there are two lengths - bet you didn't know that) b.. the height of the pedal off the floor (which is adjustable on cars with dual clutch/brake master cylinders) c.. the amount of free play at the top of the pedal d.. the master cylinder bore size e.. the slave cylinder bore size f.. the amount of "lost movement" due to wear in bushes, clevis pins etc etc If you know answers... MORE
I guess I stepped in that one all right. Anyway, I'm measuring the travel at the pedal not the slave cylinder - so I guess I have to crawl under and check the circlip. Thanks for the help! Kevin "Kevin Odhner" 28065... MORE
G'day Kevin Aren't they rude, having a laugh at you like that!!!!!!!! I can understand it from Brad, but from Capt Bob, I am surprised! Shame on you Bob. Now to the topic. Kevin, are you measuring distance travelled at the pedal, or travel at the slave cylinder? If it's 1" at the slave cylinder end - then that's excessive. It's usually only about 1/2", so all is well. At the top end, the pedal should hit the floor - approx 4" away. 1" in and out (sorry, couldn't resist) is rediculous. But if your clutch pedal only travels... MORE
Good lord this is a cold natured 8itchy car until she gets warm. I was finally able to take her to the mechanic today for the cracked slave cylinder boot. It's 30 degrees in Memphis, TN which doesn't make me happy because she has no top on. I bundle up, go out and crank her up. I'm sure she was cussing me because every once in a while I could almost understand a few words coming out of the engine compartment and certainly a few from the exhaust. I forgive her considering how cold it is and that I'd... MORE
Subject: Re: Bugeye Group..... Re: The Originality Wars...another take A very interesting spin on the subject. It seems to put it more into perspective for me. I am not restoring a Bugatti here. And I have no interest in restoring a 1959 tract house (that sold for $15,000 new) back to its original condition with galvanized water pipes and a floor furnace. I like air conditioning, a modern kitchen, disk brakes, 5 speed, going faster etc. As well, I like the neighborhood, and the people who live around me, and the other people who drive LBC's and besides, they... MORE
Hi, Can anyone tell me what the normal range of movement is for the clutch pedal on a '65 Midget MKII, and how stiff it should be? My clutch seems to work just fine, but I am surprised how short the range of motion is, and how stiff it is - it feels like its only going in about an inch, if that. As I said the car works, but the difference between in and out is so small that I find myself pushing hard to be sure I've got it in far enough in. If the pedal had... MORE
Hi, Guy and David, There are varying degrees of symmetry and our engines are not symmetrical vertically. I also no mathematician, but I am an engineer! The simplest way I can describe it is to say that:- when the crank is at 90 degrees from TDC, the pistons are not half way down the bore! At this point in a 1275 motor the piston is at 57% of its stroke. Hence when the crank is in this position all 4 pistons are at 57% stroke. Compare this when the crank is at TDC or BDC, you will have 0%... MORE
Cap'n Oi! I've got enough flack coming at me from the Bugeye group, I don't need it in here as well, thank you very much *kicks away your walking stick* ;) Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27952... MORE
David Regarding 'practicing' your welding skills, I agree 100% with you, I've just been through this process and I know where you're coming from. I also went through the 'thought' process of repairing my own ones, but for the reasons we've both realised - it just isnt worth it. I also made up a number of my own repair sections, for various reasons, but usually because I didn't want to hold up progress while I ordered the section and waited for it to arrive. One notable one was the passenger side lower A post hinge mounting. I used the... MORE
The height legislation was to do with the bumpers themselves. The performance/handling is a very good reason to leave them off (it's equivalent to about a 5 bhp increase, considering the improved power to weight ratio!) so a bit of time spent grinding off the front mountings is well worth it, especially since you already have chrome bumper front wings Are your CB wings original BL ones or pattern ones? The arch radius should be the same for both CB and RB cars. As I said earlier, the mountings are slightly different, so you would probably need to lower... MORE
Hi Cap'n- IT STARTED!!!!!!!!! After ten long, grueling years (ok, I took A LOT of time off...) the motor fired this afternoon. A sweeter sound has not been heard.... You are right. This is a VERY fresh motor. What should I pay attention to with respect to "cam break-in"? Also, I got the clutch going. Most all parts are new or refreshed. Disengages the flywheel nicely. But the pedal effort is VERY light. Is this normal? Also, has anyone measured the "rod travel" one should get at the slave cylinder with a properly working clutch? I would be interested... MORE
G'day Paul Here's an idea from Oz. If you use too long a bolt in the flywheel, it can stick out the back and hit the half-moon seal above the rear bearing cap. Could be that the problem is marginal, and it's clearing two of them but hitting the third. If this is the problem, the engine needs to come out. But then, I think you have eliminated so many things now that the engine needs to come out anyway. Then you can remove one piece at a time until you find the culprit. And of course, you will... MORE
