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Lubrication System

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Bree... If the Master Cylinder was completely empty (rather than 1/4 full, fr'instance) then air most likely air had been pumped into the system (rather than brake fluid) as the brakes lost effectiveness, prior to your stopping off to check the fluid and topping off. When pads have really worn down, they do indeed make noise just as you say, more noticeable in the wet conditions before they truly get bad enough to be noticed in the dry. But what also happens is that as the pads wear, more "room" becomes available for hydraulic fluid within the system, so... MORE


What is the correct color to paint the water pump pulley on a 73 Midget(1275)? Thanks, Jim C 73 Midget 66 MGB "klutterbutt92530" 25584... MORE


Hi, Bree... More specific information would be required in each case for accurate answers, Bree. With respect to the brakes... are you making an assumption, here? Air just does not get into the brake system "automatically" or "overnight"...unless you've suddenly developed a hydraulic leak wherein air displaces fluid which has leaked out or you have suddenly developed a master cylinder or other mechanical problem(s) within the system. Otherwise, besides low brake fluid (when was the last time this was topped off?), worn brake pads are most likely the first place I'd look with a suddenly "soft" pedal (when was... MORE


Is it engaged correctly with the oil pump at the rear? ...correct end drive type for the pump installed? (star...slot etc) Other than that...isn't there some shimming required to set the end float correctly? Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 25595... MORE


Don't waste your money at Moss... go to any motorcycle store and buy fork oil 20wt is about stock. It also comes in 5, 10,15 and 30 wt (and possibly others) Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 25578... MORE


I've only owned one later model Midget; the rest have been older Sprites. But, I had the same noise and while the fuel pump was indeed getting noisey with age, I agree with Paul that you should check your exhaust clearances. The frame rail can resonate like a drum when the exhaust is not quite as tight as it should be and the pipes make contact with the car. But you said that it happens as soon as you unlock the ignition ? Wait until the pilot bearing starts going out... that's a noise that will really confound you.... MORE


Kevin.... With respect to the picture of the crankcase ventilation system at the carbs.....the system does not appear to be "pinched off" from what I THINK I see. The large hose from the front cannister on the timing chain cover appears to be clamped to a non-stock "Tee" fitting from which smaller hoses are clamped that run to the crankcase emissions breather ports on each carb. Perfectly normal set-up assuming these hoses are not clogged. Take the hose off at the cannister, clean the end and blow through it. With some restriction (the "exhaust holes" in the carbs are... MORE


Electric fuel pump. If you have a stock one, it will be located above the rear axle on the right side. Turn your key and and see if that is the area of the noise. You might have a have a solid state replacement which never shut off and make that sound constantly, whereas the stock Lucas will shut off when the floats fill up. Welcome, but as a new member, you would do well to introduce yourself and at least sign your name as there are about 600 members here. As a novice, you should check out my... MORE


Hi... please don't laugh as I am a novice to this MG stuff. I have just purchased my first Midget and have a little niggle. When I turn the ignition key to the first position I get a subtle knocking noise - obviously something electrical - maybe fuel pump or starter motor???? As I start the engine and drive this knocking is still there (so obviously a necessary part of the running of the car) but the noise becomes louder and louder on an ad-hoc basis especially after a long run then pulling up at traffic lights). Should I... MORE


Well, I think I have established two things. I need to uncrimp the crank case ventilation systempipe cnnections in the picture which I have not yet done. The second thing is that this won't rectify my oil problem. I am going to do a little reading on the ventilation system over the weekend. Could a blockage somewhere else in the ventilation system be causing a buildup of pressure? I am on the road, ahnd will be out of touch, but will report back to the teacher(s)next week. http://www.northweb.sk.ca/kevin/mg/pinch.jpg Here is the picture which is likely useless, but I took... MORE


If the knocking is coming from the rear of the car what you are hearing is the fuel pump which is located in back in the wheel well. The time to worry is when you do not hear it at least on occasion. When you turn the key on it starts pumping and stops when the float bowls are full then it turns off and on as necessary to supply gas to the carburetors. A tip while on the subject . . . sometimes with older Spridgets, especially after sitting for a long time, the surface of the contacts... MORE


Okay, ED - Here's the story: Grades 5, 8, etc are American designations which were never used in England. I don't know, and you don't either, what strength bolts and in which applications were used in cars of long ago. Maybe some of them were not very strong, but I can assure you that some were very strong. They were often not marked since their use was controlled by part number, and one would have to refer to the parts drawings and the old British Standards to find out exactly what they were. That said, bolts in critical safety-related... MORE


I have been watching this thread, and have missed where the oil is coming from. I had a problem with my Bugeye (1275) a while back in that it was cold and I was putting 20/50 oil in. The oil was right, but the tempature was too cold and the oil was too thick to go back down the pushrod holes. I found a leak at the back of my valve cover, and I had "OIL, OIL Everywhere" Since he says that his engine is cold, and he just bought the car, I am wondering, 1. did you change... MORE


"Ok, I exaggerated" Oh....ok. 'Cause you never know, Kevin... people do put different engines in these cars from time to time. So...back on track. I would go with the Bob Gardner idea regarding running the engine without the valve cover and seeing whether the oil is flowing freely down the lifter holes back down into the block..... and let us know. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25523... MORE


Hello all, Well, I fired her back up today. Put my hand over the oil filler hole, and let it idle. There was no significant vaccuum and no significant air pressure. The valve cover filled about an inch and a half full of oil, with oil coming up the push rod tubes. I'm sure it would have kept going , but I shut it down. As I mentioned earlier, it sounds fine once it gets warmed up. It isn't missing and has good oil pressure. (although the oil gauge doesn't work (Problem #312 of 1067...get to that one later...)... MORE


Well Don May.... The crankcase takes incoming air from the charcoal cannister through a "graduated orifice" feed tube mounted on the valve cover, assuming the valve cover has a non-vented oil filler cap. The "exhaust" side would be the hose coming from the cannister on the timing case cover which vents into the intake system via individual hoses which feed a "graduated orifice" within each carburator. In this instance, while the engine is running, Kevin removed the oil filler cap and noticed no vacuum or pressure. So even though Kevin states the individual hoses to each carb appear pinched,... MORE


Kevin... You engine looks nothing like the engine in the Haynes manual? Hmmm.... Well...a picture is worth a thousand words, Kev. Those hoses to the carburators from the cannister on the timing chain cover should definitely be clear and open.... no doubt about this. If the valve cover was on the engine when you were running it, then with every respect, Kevin, there is no way you could tell where the oil was coming from... the oil filler hole is too small to provide a decent view and through this small hole, not enough light in there...to dark in... MORE


Fuel Tank In my application or case...the filter screen was attached to the end of the tube pickup and touched the floor of the tank in my application...the tube itself ended short of the tank floor by about 3/4". I don't recall the tube being anything but vertical in the last part of it's length. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25495... MORE


I'm in the process of rebuilding my motor(1275+). I had the crank lightened (wedged,-2lbs), balanced and polished during it's stay at the machine shop. The block was cleaned and new main bearing were installed. When I test fit the caps, with 40lbs torque but without the Thrust Washers, the crank turned smoothly with little effort (I used assembly lube). I removed all the caps and then reinstalled them with new Thrust Washers from VB; now the crank needs about thirty pounds (approx) of force to start it rotating. It still moves smoothly but requires some effort. There is no... MORE


Martyn.... BTDT. You poor ba$ta-d....and I speak from experience. What we did was pull the tank, pull the sender, find youthful human being with really thin arms (my mechanic's 16 year old was on hand, thank God) and get in there with a long needle nose pliers (or whatever) and wrench the clogged up filter netting right off the steel fuel feed line. This will take a lot of patience to finally get a grip on the stupid thing to the extent you have the leverage to disloge it from it's pipe, unless you get lucky...which I hope you... MORE


Don & Robert, Thanks. I'll put the lip up, I thought it went that way but the seal looks like it could go up or down depending on which part of it you look at. I'll let you know how it turns out. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25426... MORE


Naw. It would be nearly impossible to have too much oil from the rocker assy, and the movement of the push rods (which move somewhat sideways as well as up and down) would prevent the holes from plugging up. What you've got is excessive crankcase pressure, which prevents the oil draining back into the sump. Since the engine sat for a long time, may have multiple broken piston rings, possibly a broken piston. Have a compression test done. If compression is good, then the problem is plugged up or disconnected crankcase ventilation system. With the oil fill cap removed,... MORE


Jeff Holmes states: "Naw" Could be, Jeff. But I know a guy who raced a Spridget up at Lime Rock that had the exact problem I speak of....now this isn't a racing application as far as we know...but we don't know otherwise either....this could be a street tuned motor for all we know...lister didn't say and probably doesn't know.... excessive rocker clearances with otherwise good bearing clearances reasonably good oil pressure which could flood the valve area in a hearbeat. That's why I asked this lister if he had oil going by the lower engine seals and out the... MORE


Check to see if the hose from the top of the oil separator canister on front of the timing chain cover to the carburetors is clogged up and if the two small inlet pipes where the hoses connect at the carburetors are not clogged up. Spray a little carburetor cleaner in them. Don "Don May" 25419... MORE


I'm trying to re-install the windshield and have mixed up the pads that go between the corner of the frame and the body. There is a slight lip around the edge of the seal. Does this go up or down? Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25414... MORE