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Just to shed some of my personal experience in this area. I had to tackle this area personally in the last week or so. If you follow some of the parts supplier's diagrams you might end up installing this little pesky item backwards. Best advice is, as always, follow your original repair manual. In my case, it's a Sprite Mark I with a 948 engine. If you stop to think for a moment, and ask yourself, what is the logical purpose for this (oil thrower) item? You will soon come to a quick conclusion that its purpose is to... MORE
Strange one this , I suspect it 's not too important. MG book shows concave towards the outside of the engine i.e. Front of car. The Maestro A series 1300 engine shows a slight centre dish concave towards the gear, but the outer rim edge of the thrower is like a normal washer, flat. My Haynes Mini book - (all A series engines) shows the same type of thrower but with an 'F' marked on one side. The 'F' is fitted towards the outside or normally Front of car. i.e. centre concave goes next to the gear. Lindsay Porters... MORE
Hi, Ken... 1275's ran with no exhaust valve seals for better cooling (residual oiling) of the stems. Guess they figured the combustion gasses would be "outbound" in any case instead of "sucking" as in the case of the inlet valve. It would make sense to me to install the oil thrower concave side "in", convex side "out" but I haven't got the manual at hand and haven't built an engine in 20 years so I'll leave this one to another more "current" than I in this respect! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31272... MORE
The gasket set for my 1275 Midget engine came with 4 rubber "boots" which are oil seals for the inlet valve stems. The set also included 5 (!) of the small o-rings which I thought were for teh earlier 1098 motors where they were used on inlet and exhaust. Shouldm I be installing 4 of these o-rings on my exhaust valves in addition to the 4 boots on the inlet guides? The manual is ambiguous. Also, the manual says to install the oil thrower in the timing chest concave side out - then shows a picture of it installed... MORE
P.S. skip the cupro nickel, go with silicone brake fluid and don't drive when the temp is below 32 degrees F or 0 C. No rust and the wheel cylinders last longer. Bob, Troutdale, OR USA "Robert Webb" 31269... MORE
The old "dodge" for a whiney rear axle was to add some sawdust to the oil. Not that I would recommend that sort of thing! I bet Frank knows this one - only 'cos he is a chippy, you understand. Guy "Guy Weller" 31260... MORE
Hi all,and a happy easter to you all. Now one for the group to give there views on,was talking to a chap in the week whos got a 74 midget,well he was saying that he nearly got rid of it a while back due to the fact he was fed up a whine from the rear axle ( diff ),at the same time his seals on his range rover swivels had gone,well when you do them now the hubs are refilled with a mixture that he said looked like a mix of oil and grease he called it a... MORE
I'll be flying out to Newburg, NY this weekend to drive the MGB back. It's running well, so there should be no issues. In case there are some forseen issues, I would appreciate people who may live along the way that I can use as an emergency contact. I'll be taking I84 from Newburg to Scranton, PA, then I81 to I80. I'll be taking I80 to Acron, OH, I71 to Columbus, then I70 on in to Indianapolis. If you live on the route, or nearby, and don't mind, I'd love your phone number, which I promise to not pass... MORE
Just a couple of tips about adjusting rear brakes and handbrake. Firstly, you MUST totally back off the handbrake before you attempt to adjust the rear brakes. Preferably, remove the clevis pin where the handbrake cable is attached to the compensator mounted to the diff housing. This ensures that the adjustment at the wheels is not interfered with by the handbrake being partly on. After you have adjusted the brakes, you can then re-connect the handbrake and adjust it. You will often find that the clevis pin will no longer fit, and you have to back off the handbrake... MORE
I don't think so, Tom. Considering what you paid, if it's in the decent mechanical shape claimed, I think you did OK for what you paid, personally. I owned a de-smogged '72 until a certain girl ran a Stop sign one night and her insurance co. put me into a new Fiat 1/9. Pull the head and shave it to bring the Comp. Ratio up to no more than 9.5-1, (mine was 10-1 but we had "manly" gas available at that time!:) and purchase a set of 1.75 HS4's suitably calibrated as in Stage 1 of the Special Tuning... MORE
You know, this exactly describes my issue. I'm SO glad I don't have to try to bleed the breaks. My ebrake comes almost vertical. For me, I have to pump it twice. TJ "TJ Tryon, Jr." 31180... MORE
On the 68, I had been having some trouble with the brakes. I had a new master, rebuilt the rear slaves, new hoses on the front, yet recently, I was losing a trace amount of fluid. Every week, I had to add a small amount of fluid to the master. I also had to pump the brakes to get them to grab well. Only once, but still. It finally occurred to me, DUH, that the E brake lever was coming up alot more than it needed to. So I spent some time cleaning the rear drums and shoes. Then... MORE
Biff and Paul, Thanks for the replies! No, I was following the manual which states to check the endfloat after installing the oil pump and retaining plate. Looks like the manual is just plain WRONG! I wasn't happy with the spacer idea - hence my question which I'm glasd to say you've both answered. So much for "reading the manual". Ken "kcarroll_184" 31133... MORE
Hi all, I picked up a 1275 (73 Midget) engine for my Morris Minor project car. Since it arrived in four boxes a few parts were missing (so I've discovered) One of these was the small triangular(ish) drive flange which connects the camshaft to the oil pump. A new oil pump and flange were obtained (along with loads of other stuff for a complete rebuild). After assembling the oil pump, camshaft and the triangular camshaft retaining plate I find I have about 1/8" or so of endfloat where the spec is 4 to 7 thou! The retaining plate is... MORE
Are you checking the end float with the camshaft gear in place and tight? There won't be anything on the oil pump end to keep it in place and a spacer in there isn't a very good idea. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 31129... MORE
Your plans pretty much match up with what I am doing, Rick. I have the engine compartment pretty well taken care of as well as the front wheel wells. I used POR 15 on the compartment and the various metal shrouds and brackets. It is supposed to be very tough and it has a nice shine to it. Since my color is black the color match is not a concern. I still have some reconstruction to do around the rear wheel arches. The rocker panels are original and are rock solid. This is because since the time I bought... MORE
I am looking for a timing chain cover for a 1275, the cover with the oil seperator attached, and not having much luck. Does anyone on the list have one they would like to sell? or know where I can locate one? Thanks for the assistance. Jahn Johnson 59 sprite. "coldharbor01" 31016... MORE
hi all, as for progress so far, i have got the head of and am going to check the valve seats as the exhaust ports are looking wet! and i am sure this shouldn't be the case! I should have striped the head down last time but i don't have a spring compressor usually borrow a M8s so will be doing that over the weekend. One question. Last week when i put the head back on i used a new HG i started the car twice there was a problem so thats why i have striped it down, is... MORE
G'day Paul Sounds like you have a Mini Metro Turbo head gasket. It's hard and black, and in my opinion the very best you can get. Apart from being a denser material, it also has re-inforcing fillets between the cylinders. My race engine runs 13:1 compression, and I have NEVER blown a head gasket. All the guys racing Sprites and Midgets Down Under use this gasket. One guy I know has re-used his 3 times now (he's cheap) and even he doesn't blow them! The Payen part number is TAM1521, at least that's what it is on the packet... MORE
Topping off the dash pot oil? I hope mine doesn't leak. I try to check it at least yearly. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 30995... MORE
Chris No it is not! You're just mad and wanted to become a female grease monkey - go on admit it! N ;) "amukdigiphoto" 30985... MORE
Paul, That sounds just like the one I described to you , that I pulled from Adrian's leaky 1275 so long ago. It didn't leak coolant, but did leak oil profusely out the pushrod side of the head gasket. Gerard "gerardchateau" 30983... MORE
Hi Colin, Thanks for the info on the head gasket. Upon close inspection, I found that there was an exhaust leak from the #4 cylinder out the side away from the pushrods and exiting up the back corner stud!! There was also coolant leakage through at least 5 of the coolant passages. This prompted some pitting on the cyl head so I had it resurfaced. The block seems to be OK in that respect. The threads had also lifted a bit on the block where the studs fit because they were quite tight and the threaded holes not chamfered.... MORE
I've got an unused standard Unipart head gasket here next to me (asbestos/steel) which is a light grey - might go darker in use? It came in a head gasket set, but I also prefer to use the so-called competition copper ones, so left this out. On a related but non-LBC matter, I just had to get some new bits for my Subaru including a head gasket - they're black but not hard at all as they're graphite on the outside. They're a hell of a price too - 40 GBP, and that's just for two cylinders! Regards David... MORE
Ben, My 1500 has Peco exhaust, oil cooler but no magnetronic ignition or kenlowe fan, from Nov 2002 until Oct 2003 it was in daily use and i covered 15000 miles in that time as well as several large jouneys includng Le Mans and back which all told was 1000 miles in 4 days. (I'm in the UK) My car is far from perfect but regular and pre-emtive maintainance is the key to reliablility. Once you've ironed out all the faults that the previous owners failed to take care of (in my case my own brother!) its pretty easy... MORE
