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Ken... The Datsun box utilizes standard mineral based gear oil although I personally favor "synthetic" gear oil in the winter months for much easier shifing in the cold (just changed over yesterday as a matter of fact). The foregoing having been said, the synchronizers were made with normal mineral based gear oils in mind though, so while cold weather shifting (most especially from 1st to 2nd) will be much easier with synthetic, synchronizer effectiveness will suffer a bit for you "quick shifters"! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26456... MORE
http://www.rivergate5speed.com/desc_of_trans.html Follow the above link, and you'll find a manual on the transmission. It has a filler hole that can be accessed from the underside of the car. I honestly can't remeber what what oil I used. (I debated the issue several days with my father before going with the oil mentioned in the rivergate kit instructions) "Trevor Jessie" 26458... MORE
Nigel, You've removed the dust cover and the cotter pin (you call it something else) and the castleated nut, right? I believe you have to remove the caliper so the whole hub will slide off. Then you take a suitable drift and drive out the bearing from the other side. This is working from a 35 year old memory of having done this, but I'm sure I will be corrected if necessary. RH ...those idiots at the NRA, not only do they think the second amendment gives them the right to own guns, they think the first amendment gives... MORE
Listers, one and all. For the past few years we've had a group of enthusiasts gather in Madison WI (USA) for a bit of post-Thanksgiving turkey Sprite dismantling and/or rebuilding called Save Our Sprites. These "events" take place the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving (Nov. 28,29 this year) and are viewable over the internet through some video magic. (details later) We hope to improve that this year with faster service for better interaction. In the past, those who wanted to contribute, but couldn't attend, offered food and beverage from their locality. We've had some great variety from scrapple to... MORE
Setting the ignition timing made a big difference, it now idles at 1500. I believe that the VP3 cam is causing a large vacuum and the pistons are being raised more than is normal. Cap'n Bob suggested using a stiffer spring in the carbs. Those are on order so next weekend should be the final step in getting the beast sorted. I put 30wt oil in the dampers and that helped with the piston oscillations but they are still more open than I think they should be. Am I correct in thinking the stiffer springs are the right solution... MORE
Pete I don't know much about MC's let alone a dual 1500 one, but I would certainly try a repair kit for it first. If it is only a leak, it's probably one of the seals that needs replacing. It's up to you really, do you want to gamble 20 or 30 bucks on a repair kit and hope that fixes the problem, or want to go down the safe route and simply order a new one? If it's any help, I shall be turning my attention to my MC's soon, one was replaced fairly recently by a PO,... MORE
Do not use an adhesive using any petroleum products/ solvents. It causes the Lexan to craze, loose strength and break down. Try to keep oil/petrol etc clear also as these affect Polycarbonate, which is what Lexan is, if my memory is functioning on all cylinders. (For choice, I would use Acrylic, but that doesn't help you does it! :-) Reminds me of the old countrymans saying - If I was going there, I wouln't start from here ....) R "Roger Stinson" 26402... MORE
Bob.... Go with an alcohol/water mix (60/40) and I am quite sure you could run up to 8psi boost on 9.4 with no problem but, you're gonna be far better off running both the foregoing along with an ignition retard system or, limiting advance to something like 24 degrees on a regular mechanical advance distributor considering the best you can get in terms of pump fuel will be 98RON unleaded. MSD makes an excellent boost retard ignition system and I am sure Aldon over there has some ideas in this respect as well which may very well consist of... MORE
yes. Different crank and rods (inferior metal, but larger big-ends). Front mounting plate is different (and a mod to the oil pan too I believe) Oil filter is spin-on on the side of the block pointing upwards somewhat. low comp pistons I think. Single row timing chain maybe (OK, I am struggling to recall after the 1st three items) The A+ out of the Ital has a ribbed block, so that is good... Mike "Mike Gigante" 26375... MORE
Do you smell gas when driving of if the car is parked? If no puddles, no smell, no pools of fluid on the engine then are you sure you are losing fuel? Could it be the gauge? Fill it up drive home...Park it...next day go back and fill her up again. How much is gone? More than normal for that trip? Could someone be stealing your gas out of the tank? Bill French Hilton Head frenchww@... 26366... MORE
Well... Sounds to me like you've got ignition timing mixed up with cam timing. The cam timing can be "staight up" or for a little heftier lower range at minimal expense to the top end, timed in no more than 4 degrees "advanced" per Vizard's recommendation. Assuming you are using a new timing chain, after initial chain "stretch" the cam will end up running 2 degrees advanced...perfect! For your application considering a small bore engine, and "long stroke" at that, I'd go "straight up" for the track, 4 degrees advanced for the road, most especially if you're planning to... MORE
"...all you can do is steer them in the right direction...." LOL......priceless, Nigel!! I recall when I could not get the toe to stay put on my '74 Midget when I first acquired it. After replacing tie rod ends, bearings, etc., I finally just broke down and replaced the whole suspension with new parts. And prior to this, it WAS "stiff" and while it became less stiff with much grease, it then became loose due to worn clearances, even as it became less stiff as we continued to grease it often. So diplomacy aside, it can be just as... MORE
Rod... Nigel may be right (probably is because his reasons are sound) but, go the "inexpensive" Cap'n Bob's suggestion first because grease in the steering rack will cause the same symptoms of heavy steering and an unwillingness to self- center and it's a lot less expensive fix, in the event!! :):) There is nothing "wrong" with the front end suspension set-up other than it's rather "crude" but Nigel is absolutely correct in that premature wear is caused mainly by a lack of proper maintenance as in not following factory recommended lubrication schedules. And yes, the king pins (and everything... MORE
Hi, Rod...welcome. Can be either/or. You will notice on the steering rack that the lubricator nipple looks to be a regular grease nipple...well, it's actually a nipple for an OIL gun with the correct fitting, such as one would find at a Marine Supply Store. Most people don't realize this and grease the rack instead of "oiling" it. Not much of a problem in nice, warm summer weather but, as soon as it cools off, the steering becomes as you describe it (assuming it's just this and not kingpins, etc.). Normally, warming up the boots covering the rack than... MORE
I have just acquired a 1965 sprite and when driving the steering seems very stiff, and when cornering if I releases the steering wheel it does not return to center. Could this be a king pin problem or a steering rack problem. Thanks "roderick_ralph" 26297... MORE
Rick writes, in part, "Does the owner's manual contain suggestions...." LMAO! In the SAAB 340 I flew the "red" hydraulic light (steering, landing gear and flaps) came on when you had lost all your "main" hydraulic fluid. The emergency action item for this event was "Hydraulic Pump Switch to OFF (from AUTO) which was hilarious as at 3,000psi, you could never in a million years get to the switch in time....a completely useless red light if there ever was one!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26295... MORE
Martyn, A bit confused by what you mean here. "The points have voltage on the outside contact when open and voltage on the inside when closed" Their should be no reading of voltage between ground and either of the point contacts when they are closed. If you have voltage between chassis ground (body of the distributor) and either of the point contacts when the points are closed you have a ground problem. The stationary point contact should always be at ground level. Check your ground wire from the stationary point contact base plate base and the case of the... MORE
G'day Alan et al Can't help with the combustion chamber volume. The kerosine keeps running out those large holes where valves should be! The combustion volume depends on (amongst other things) how "proud" the valves sit off the seats. And since the head has no valves, and I have no new valves to try in it, and since I don't feel like buying two new valves - I can't answer your question! But I do know I have machined over .100" off head faces before exposing the oil feed line. With the higher comp pistons available, it's unlikely you... MORE
Colin at sprite parts wrote I happen to have a brand new 12G295 head, still in the BMC wax paper. So I measured it for you. It is exactly 2.754" thick. So, That means it's just inside the drawing tolerance of 2.75" +/- 0.005" However,Colin The depth dimension of the combustion chamber - could you give us a dimension of this please. ,( which is more critical to find out out if the engine face has been machined) In fact any dimensions for a brand new head would be useful. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I include part of an email I sent... MORE
I have two questions mostly revolving around the same issue involving my 3.9 diff I'll be transplanting to my Bugeye project. Has anyone on the list rebuilt a differential and if so how was the crushable spacer handled as I don't see this as a part that can be ordered from the normal sources. Second question, If I just replace the diff pinion oil seal how is the torque to the pinion nut handled? It's torqued to 140 ft/lbs but doesn't that have the potential to further crush that spacer? Ok, I'm going to take advantage of the list... MORE
While we are discussing side curtains, I got the weather seals and the front corner has come apart. What glue will put it back together and hold. I have tried tire patch glue with a patch behind the / and it still comes apart. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26165... MORE
Strictly speaking these are sidescreens. Side curtains were standard for a while and were just extensions to the hood with no rigid structure or sliding 'glass'. www.ahspares.co.uk do replacement units. Moss do pastic and seals. "Jeremy Cogman" 26155... MORE
Cap'n: Thanks for your help. The canister vent lines are clean and you can blow thru them. (I assume you mean the lines that run from secondary canister to behind inner fender.) I do wonder about the vent pipe to seperator hook up in trunk. I renewed these rubber lines, would it make a difference if the were possibly crossed? I will switch them and see. As you mentioned this model should have a tight fitting cap with rubber gasket... which it does not have at this moment. In the meantime I have dropped the tank again, removed sending... MORE
AH, HAH. Changes the whole story, Mike. Yep.... corrosion in the tank seems to be the culprit, then. But check that fitting where the tube goes into the tank, 'cause it could be a "combo" situation....a little contamination of the fuel supply along with an air leak where the outside tube to fuel pump line meets the tank. Hope this cures your situation...most likely will I bet, at least temporarily. Now...do you overhaul the old tank to get rid of the corrosion problem ("coating") or do you spring for a new one, considering the prior problem at the external... MORE
If you are going to bond something with epoxy, and it suits aluminium exceptionally well, you must design the joint for it, use the correct epoxy, make the joint the correct thickness, cure it at the right temperature for the right time and use the correct surface preparation. Sounds silly but if you do that the joint might be 100 times stronger. We have used epoxy to secure closure plates in cast aluminium pressure vessels when the casting bursts before the plate blows off. But you could lift up the corner of the closure plate with a pen knife... MORE
