MAIN
Lubrication System
Previous Page | Next Page
Cap'n Bob, My you do go on. I can't process all of what you sent but I will speak to part of it. As the father of two boys (21 and 15)I know (first hand empirical) that the parents of children within 5-10 years of mine either way are the worst in a long time. This is my generation and they, as a group, suck! The catalog of selfishiness, over-indulgence in all areas, horrific judgement and evasion of adult responsibilities of all kinds is truly mind-blowing. All the silliness of the 60's and 70's was pounded into the wits... MORE
Thanks The clips I have look about the right shape but are just not tall enought to hold the strip, they just fall out of the slot. BTW I got the midget MOT'd with nothing more than 4 new tyres, the old ones were not worn out the wall were covered in cracks simply caused by age. I think the oxygen in the air attacks the rubber. Normally you wear out the tyre long before this happens. Terry "terry.isherwood" 26557... MORE
The fulcrum pin is of a stepped design and the two threads are of different diameters. I gave up on these cork washers years ago. They don't last long and I'm not convinced they do anything while they do last. I just make sure there is plenty of grease left round that area. "Jeremy Cogman" 26551... MORE
Hi guys I'm just about to start putting the front suspension back together. Where the kingpin attaches to the Wishbone, there are two cork sealing washers. In my parts books both cork washers are the same external diameter but one is a larger internal diameter than the other. Anyone know the reason or significance of this? Is it something to do with the fulcrum pin? tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26547... MORE
Hi Trying to put the 'chrome' strip back on the sill of 1972 midget using new retaining clips. The ones supplied are far too small and fail to retain th e strip, good job I tried them first before pop riveting them to the sill. Anyone else had this problem or is this just a bad batch of clips. I get them from a local MG bit and pieces enthusiasts shop, think they come from same source as MGOC. I got an original BMC workshop manual for Midget/Spri te for =A310 from him yesterday. Just had to re exchange... MORE
Oh yes! I know that feeling too. Doing jobs on these cars can be frustrating at times. With regard to the Midget though, I only have myself to blame, being the present owner and also the 'daft previous owner' . Having said that, when it was still quite new, the garage who serviced it (and supplied it, The Bedford Garage, in Exeter Devon U.K. - no longer in existence, by the way) failed to lubricate the king pins properly, leading to them seizing up, so I resolved to do my own servicing, spending the remainder of what I would... MORE
Well, I took the carbs off and found that when the machine shop had bored the bodies for oversize shafts they did a very poor job. The center of the bore was shift a few thou up which caused the butterfly not to seal on the bottom. That job was done many years ago. Fortunately I have a another set of carbs that I can use. The engine no can be made to idle just about where I want it although with the cam (VP3 in a 1098) it doesn't like low idle speeds, greater than 900 is good.... MORE
Nigel, If I did not know what country you live in, I would think you were talking about the US. I think the last good place left is finding a little place on the beach in Mexico. Just sit in the sun, put oil on your honey's scantly clad body, sip some tequila and don't worry about anything. Then do it again tomorrow!!!!! Hmmmmmm I am close enough, I think I will go down there tomorrow for a few days.........lololol By the way, your David Frost, quite a few years ago said, "The American form of government is like... MORE
Roger Thanks again for your advice. I decided in the end to use the Castrol LM grease I just happened to have a tin of in my garage, donated by my dad a few years ago I think. Particularly so as when I looked in the Midget/Sprite shop manual it actually specifies this grease as the one to use! Nice result that one! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26520... MORE
Roger Yeah I so hate having to do that! This comment was made in frustration after a 'head down' lack of progress day. You know those kind of days, I'm sure we've all had them. You spend the entire day in the garage and make no progress at all, due to one stuck nut/screw/name your devil. Made even more frustrating knowing there was so many others things I can be getting on with. The choice is there, do you continue with said stuckness, or do you just think, right I'll shift that problem over to someone else and get... MORE
Roger Thanks for taking the time to reply. I got it in the end, once I'd got it clear in my mind what I needed to do. Not really knowing how the bearings and oil seals actually sat inside the hub was my main problem. Once I understood how it all fitted together and the sequence in taking it apart ie one bearing came out one end and the other bearing the other end I was able to position the drift in the right place and gave it a sharp thwack and out it popped! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26517... MORE
I've always used Molybdinum (Moly) Grease (Duckhams LBM10, I think, without looking at the tin, and I have NEVER had problems with bearing or with bolts seizing, ever. R. "Roger Stinson" 26515... MORE
Put a little hook under the oil seal and pull. They even used to have a special service tool to do it. I always used a metal bar and put it under (into) one side of the oil seal and pressed down on the other end using the oposite side of the the housing as the fulcrum. It always worked. If rust is the problem, a bit more elbow grease is required. R. "Roger Stinson" 26512... MORE
Jeremy There's no grit from what I can see, it has an inner metal disc over the top of the grease protecting it. I'll probably scoop off about 1/2 an inch worth off the top and throw it away, so hopefully that'll leave virgin stuff. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26500... MORE
Make sure there is no grit in it. Grease tends to attract the stuff and it's the last thing you want in there. Sorry to state the obvious. "Jeremy Cogman" 26499... MORE
Castrol LM is fine, I've used it for years with no problems. I also use Comma general purpose grease, again no obvious problems. Some people like to use a graphited general purpose grease and I can't see that this will do any harm. "Jeremy Cogman" 26497... MORE
Hi guys, Many thanks to you all (including Ed) ; ) who helped with the bearing removal from the front hub. Armed with your advice I was able to pop the bearing and oil seal out this morning no problem at all. Now I just have to figure out what grease to put in it . . . Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26496... MORE
That copper stuff is okay for anti-sieze, as on threads, but don't use it in wheel bearings or suspension/steering parts. Any major brand of grease indicated for wheel bearings will be fine. The purists here may object, but any name brand of chassis grease will do fine in king pins and tie rod ends. Some like greases containing molybdenum sulfide, but I don't bother with it. You should use gear oil in the steering rack, however. Probably most important is to make sure everything is clean and greased before you put it back together. I once read an article... MORE
Hi guys Sorry for another naive question! Once I've got the bearings out of the hub, I'll be in a position to start reassembling the front suspension. This is a fairly general question, but what kind of grease/anti-seize compound should I be using to assemble the suspension? Actually thats two questions - What kind of grease should I be using to assemble the suspension components?, and what kind of anti-seize compound should I be using on threads and nuts? Generic 'types' would be most useful, as brand names tend to be meaningless if they're only available in the US.... MORE
Nigel, do you mean the oil seal or the grease cap/'welch plug'? The hole in the centre of the inner bearing is smaller than the actual oil seal, and is quite big enough to get a drift through. David "David Jacobs" 26480... MORE
Robert Thanks for your reply. I don't think the splined part unbolts, I think its all in one. I'll have a go at destroying the oil seal, as I think this is what's causing all the problem, I suspect that with that oil seal out of the way, the bearing's will pop out quite easily. I admit to having used so far a length of timber as a drift (as I'm very concerned about scoring/damaging inside of the hub itself) and I don't think I'm getting enough 'whack' on it. I'll try destroying the oil seal, if that doesn't... MORE
David Thanks for the advice, but how do I actually drift the outer bearing out from the splined end, when I cant get a drift onto it, because the oil seal is in the way ? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26476... MORE
Robert Thanks for your reply. I've removed everything except the bearing and seals. Which side? I've been trying to drift it out by inserting a drift from inside the splined hub part. I think its the oil seal thats not moving. I've been bashing away at it and it either hasn't moved, or its moved by about 0.5 mil. Any ideas how I can get it to move? I thought about heating up the end, but I'm very concerned about damaging anything. tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26459... MORE
All, I searched the archive but could not find a post and my local trans shop was no help. I just put a 5 speed datsun trans into my bugeye and am trying to locate info as to what oil to use and how much. Just guessing I'd say 30w std motor oil and about a quart. But more accurate information is always helpful. Thanks ken horner "pblock4x4" 26454... MORE
Yes... Bill Perry does favor the new synthetic oils as they are simply superior to the mineral oil based products, which BTW are pretty damn good themselves these days. Synthetic also allows for MUCH easier shifting of the box in cold weather, especially subsequent to initial start after the car has been sitting in freezing temps. overnight. However, their "slipperiness" and flow characteristics virtually guarantee that in all cases, you will either "lose" more or "burn" more in either event, the loss of synchronizer action in the gearbox already having been discussed. I had a minor leak in the... MORE
