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From: Virginia [mailto: vleonard@... ] Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 8:20 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Gosh Dangit..was:Re: oil preference Air in the lines seems to be the concensus. Is this a do it yourself thing with minimal tools? "Duncan Sinclair" 26828... MORE
I filled the clutch fluid to the full level and just went out to drive her. I haven't driven her in probably a month. Now, there's almost no play in the pedal coming up off the floor before the gear engages and once when I stopped and had the clutch in I felt the engine bog down and it ground going into first. I eventually was able to gently work it in. It's also making an odd noise that I don't think I can describe but know it's not normal for this car. The oil on the dipstick registers... MORE
Virginia Yes I like Extra Virgin Olive Oil, excellent on pizza's! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26768... MORE
Just regular old engine oil. 30 weight, 40 weight, 10w 5w "Virginia" 26767... MORE
Wire wheel, rear axle, I have gear oil coming out from the welch plug (oil collects in the spinner). I pulled out the plug and the seal is bad. I am unable to find a direct replacement part from Moss. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to build a new plug and/or seal to eliminate the oil leaking through? (1967 Sprite) I am replacing the bearings and grease seals also but have these parts available. Thanks for the help. Brandon "brandonweeks2000" 26725... MORE
Its a bummer when something like that happens, I hope you didn't have to dr ive too far on 3 cylinders. All sorts of unnatural stresses on the crank et c Assuming it's a clean engine there should be plenty of oil down there, in f act should be almost flooded most of the time. Is it ? Did the pushrod drill a hole in the cam follower (the push rod rotates whe n running normally - if it sticks you get abnormal wear )or did the cam 'we ar' away the base of the follower. Either way check... MORE
Somebody has probably already told you this already, but just in case, the 'o' ring (round section seal) goes at the botom,(at the bottom of the swivel pin/king pin) and the flat seal goes at the bottom of the dust excluder tube, as a seal to keep dirt and water out. If you need diagrams, I can scan them in out of my original BMC parts list. One of these days I ought to scan the lot and put it on a site somewhere. R "Roger Stinson" 26708... MORE
I am in the process of rebuilding my 1500 engine. I am looking for some feedback on what is the best way to Pin aq thrust washer in place. I have read some papers that talk about using three 1/8" roll pins, I have not seen any feedback on how well this works. My second question is related and it involves machining down the rear bearing housing to accept a second thrust washer that is held in place using three brass screws. The idea sounds good but what is the long term feedback. (see http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/1080/thrustwasherinstall.h tml for more information)... MORE
Hi guys I've just re-assembled my kingpin/stub axles and I must say I'm rather pleased with them. One question though which I'm a little unsure of. There are two small rubber seals that go on the stub axle. One is a square cross-section seal and one is a round cross-section seal. Now it's my understanding (and I may well be wrong) that both of these seals go into the lower part of the stub axle. The square cross-sectioned one goes on top of the lower part of the stub axle, where the dust tube sits on, and the round... MORE
Chris N. A couple of years ago, the market was flooded with lifters from the UK of low rockwell hardness. Bill Perry (and others) got a warning on these. When did you get yours? You see, the problem is all that metal that is no longer there went circulating around in your oil. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26685... MORE
I don't know from the VIN, but if the tach is original and says pos earth, then it must have been. The tach won't work negative earth without some internal wiring, but the generator and fuel pump will, the gen by simply repolarizing. the aftermarket radio is almost certainly neg earth, as there haven't been any pos earth ones made for a long time. Installation of the radio may be the reason for the conversion. I'd leave it neg earth, as that condition slightly lessens body corrosion. "Jeffrey Holmes" 26677... MORE
I have a 1967 Sprite that I just bought. The guy I bought it from swears that it was originally a negative earth. However, he only had it a few months and was not sure. Points leading to a negative earth; It is currently hooked up that way on the battery and the generator and fuel pump seem to work fine. There has also been an aftermarket radio installed. Why I think it was a positive earth: The Tach says positive earth (which is currently not working) and the VIN is more like a positive earth...HAN9L64745 Is there anything... MORE
Jeremy Yes, they are of the original type and use the castellated nut and split pin, which is why, as you say, I'm keen to re-use them! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26658... MORE
Instead of elbow grease and blasting... A set of wire-brushes for an electronic drill (or more agressive if you like an angle-grinder) can do miracles! OK, it's a bit noisy, dusty, potentially dangerous (these brushes can also eat skin fairly easy...don't ask how I know this!) but cheap and almost as good as blasting. If finished, use a good rust-stabelizing/neutralizing primer to prevent new rust from developing (or directly hammerite as a finish as suggested). Cheers, Eeg. Eeg.Oberije@... 26654... MORE
As they are old they are probably drilled for a split pin and castellated nut which is an incentive to use them. One of my real gripes is that the modern ones come with a nyloc. The accountant that made that decision has obviously never done the job himself. The threaded portion of the TRE does not offer enough rotation resistance to do up the nyloc yet there is no way to hold it other than by clamping the TRE to the steering arm with a heath robinson assemblage of old bits of wood and g clamps. Grrrrrr "Jeremy... MORE
I assume you mean the flange retaining nut is stuck rather than the seal itself. It's done up to about 150lbft so it is tight. I eventually got it undone by removing the diff from the axle casing and bolting it up in a vice. I then stuck a piece of wood through the diff so it couldn't turn. My girlfriend's dad then held the whole assembly as best he could while I attacked the nut with a breaker bar and a six foot length of tube, even then it was tight. My girlfriend's dad is a farmer and... MORE
I need to refurbish the steel wheels on my 1961 Mk 2 Sprite. I have completed the first one by elbow grease and it has been suggested to me that shotblasting would be a far easier way to get back to finish which is good enough for painting. Does anyone have any guidance on this from experience? I have been quoted around =A38 per wheel (tyre can remain on the wheel during the process) Tim "timandshelagh" 26637... MORE
If you leave the bodies natural they will look horrid within a year, especially the rears. Frost or Eastwood do what amounts to a metal varnish i.e. a clear coating or you could paint them in aluminium paint or a light coating of 'clear' waxoyl. As the rears are rarely seen I'd be tempted to paint them. The fronts will fair better in the relatively dry anvironment of the engine bay but very minimum I'd wipe them over with oil every so often. "Jeremy Cogman" 26635... MORE
They are so cheap and last so long (I've done about 150k miles in my Sprite and replaced four I think, two of those recently) that it's really not worth getting excited about. BMW owners spend more on one pollen filter than you will on track rod ends if you keep the car for ever "Jeremy Cogman" 26634... MORE
Hi guys I noticed that the replacement Track Rod Ends are sealed units and do not have the grease nipple of the original ones. Is this a good/bad thing? Are the replacement ones, better or worse than the OE ones? Comments? tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26626... MORE
Nigel... I have used the "new" sealed tie rod ends for many moons now. On my PO'd Vizardized '74 I had to replace them at approx. 50K miles and this was a car lowered with sport springs, 5.5" wheels with 60 series and KYB Gas Adjust shocks, 3/4" roll bar...very stiff set-up so the sealed TR ends I got from Sports & Classics I'd have to rate as pretty good. Anyone know any reason why the sealed ends couldn't be tapped for a regular grease fitting? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26627... MORE
Nigel, et al Nut splitters do work , if you don't buy cheap ones , low cost is good - ch eap is not. Same with all tools really. When replacing track rod ends etc there's nothing wrong with using a small amount of anti seize grease or LM (Low Melting temp.) (I like LM10 )I also use WD40 if the thread is trapped at each end and is virtually air tight so the WD40 doesn't evaporate. It's the mechanical stretching of the threads that lock parts together. An excellent article by a BMW owner association member ( the... MORE
Jeremy Thanks. The whole steering rack is off the car, which I guess is whats causing part of the problem. I'll ponder the cutting a slot in the nut when I really do resign failure! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26592... MORE
I assume the track rod end (TRE) is still on the tie rod as well. If so then just place the TRE back into the steering arm and that will hold the tie rod solid. Failing the above don't grind the nut fully off. Cut a slot in the nut as close as you dare to the thread, maybe several, then use a cold chisel to open the nut up i.e point the cold chisel along a cord not a radius. "Jeremy Cogman" 26588... MORE
Thanks Jeffrey That little flat is useless! I've put a wrench on that flat and it's simply not enough to stop the wrench from just rounding off. We're talking major seized lock nut here, I need to get some serious whooooooooooooomph on that lock nut and I can't do it. I've soaked it in penetrating fluid, I've heated it up for about 20 mins, but I just cannot get purchase on it. I guess I'll end up having to grind it off, which I hate doing because more times than not it damages the thread underneath rendering it unuseable.... MORE
