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Lubrication System
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Oh, yeah.. that's right. 1098's didn't come with an oil cooler. Right, right, right...I had to transfer mine over from my wrecked PO'd '67 I was working on, when acquiring my 1098 equipped BE to take it's place. I am a little surprised you are only getting 65psi "cold" out of a "new" motor, Brad. Not that this is "bad" or anything like that, but most newly rebuilt motors built to street tolerances (IMHO) put out 70+. I'm leaving my present motor out of this as it was built by plan to the tight side and actually required a... MORE
Terry, On the several that I have dismantled, they have all had mastic between bezel and glass, O-ring between glass and the next ring in, and an 0-ring between the case and the metal dashboard. I don't think there is supposed to be an O-ring behind the metal reflector ring. It is stepped and fits against the rim of the case, leaving a gap between it and the dial face to let the light through. One tip here is that you should save discarded O rings from the rear hubs as these will fit around the tach and speedo... MORE
Further to my query regarding the water leak, I think it has been answered finally by the fact that on it's way to the garage this morning to be inspected, the head gasket blew. As usual this happened about 400 yards from the garage in question, leading me to wonder why as these things couldn't have waited for a few minuites longer until I was actually AT the garage and saved me a recovery fee. Anyway, its now in Jentree garage in Pevensey where they will have a good look as to what exactly needs doing on it. As... MORE
I am not familiar with the speedo in your vintage LBC but I had a problem with the odometer reset rod in my 62 Sprite. At about a half inch from the body of the speedo there had been a small screw hole through the rod. This was for a small screw that held a shaft extension. Mine broke at that hole leaving what looks like it might be a screwdriver slot. The rest of the rod was not able to be attached. The far end of it had a small knob that is used to reset the odometer.... MORE
Terry... I agree with Nigel asking you why all this for bulb replacement but I will answer to the extent I can 'cause obviously it's already out of the car!! :):) OK... 1. Yes (O-ring, gasket, rubber washer, bit of silicone, whatever! :) 2. Have not seen an O-ring between instrument and panel before. But I don't see why you could not do this, either. 3. White/sky blue...don't know 4. Innard out...don't recall..too long ago! :) 5. Reset rod broken...maybe. Mine ends in a little knob (most likely set into that small slot you see?) 6. As I recall,... MORE
Hi I would like to see what speed I am doing in the dark so Speedo is out and apart. 1972 RWA midget Questions Chrome bezel is filled with black gunge at rear, is this the remnants of an 0 ring that seals the bezel to the glass? Is there an 0 ring between the Speedo and dash board? The inside of the Speedo is sky blue from 1 o'clock to 7 o'clock and white for the other half. Is this correct and why? How do you get the innards out? The trip reset rod is stopping it. What... MORE
Mine is red, rocker cover to oil pan which was black. U.S. export? Mine is not the only red 1500 motor I've seen. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 630-841-6077 robbiesg@... 29147... MORE
Likewise, I have a "8G18 - RS57133" 1275 unit which I had also gathered was a gold-seal one, but I never worked out any more info from the rest of the number... "Colonel Mustard" 29097... MORE
"If you are going to make your own, try to get hold of 'oil bonded' hardboard." On this side of the pond it's called "Bitumen Board". Strong, flexible and waterproof. You might find it under that name. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 29055... MORE
With appologies to Nigel. I should have said 'Oil Tempered' hardboard. (NOT oil bonded) I bought a trim set a number of years ago because the seat vinyl split next to the seams. To have panels that matched in colour with the new seats, I had to have new ones of those as well. They were not good. Not up to the standard I wanted. I ended up carefully stripping the old panels and using them as templates to make the new ones. The best drills to use are 'saw tooth' bits. They are rather like a forstner bit,... MORE
I have got what as far as I can make out is a gold seal 1275 unit but I can not find any info on the engine number and was hoping some one can help me it starts 8G which I know to be the gold seal code not and 848 unit but the rest of it is 180ER which apparently means something but can not find any info on. The number also ends in DA "kdb550" 29049... MORE
I think I had better leave it then. Not that I plan to drive with the top up but should I in the future. I do recall now how the top frame on the 62, which did not have a middle rod, had bowed up over the years and I did not get a good windshield seal. Don "Don May" 29036... MORE
If you are going to make your own, try to get hold of 'oil bonded' hardboard. It is very dense and waterproof. ordinary hardboard is what I would call a 'biscuit' brown. Oil bonded is very much darker brown, almost black. It is a much higher quality product and will not distort like the cheaper ones. R "Roger Stinson" 29010... MORE
Ah, yes... I have to clean the inside of my fuel gauge this spring...the gasket has obviously worn to a point where moisture can condense within. Easiest way I have found is to remove the gauge but, not before I loosen the bracket, pull it out and give it a try from the front. Sometimes it comes off with a little prying and sometimes it won't. At that point removal completely to get a decent grip is the only answer I have found to getting the job done. I reseal them by using black silicone sparingly. Cap'n. Bob '60... MORE
Two down without removing the dash . . . have nice clean tach and speedometer glass now but the worst ones are the fuel and oil/temp . . . may have to wait for a dash removal for those. Don "Don May" 28984... MORE
As I recall with the ones I removed completely it did take a bit of gentle prying and breaking loose the hardened rubber seals before the chrome ring could be twisted to its keyed position for removal. At least when you remove one it gives an additional access hole for the others. Getting the old body into the correct position to work under the dash is always a challenge. Not so much getting into position but getting back out is usually the problem. Am I the only person who thinks what may bite me when I push my hand... MORE
Don, I love your project and I like the idea of saving all the bits for the future. On vinyl spray, I have used it for many years off and on. It works very well and lasts quite well also. If it starts to crack or wear thin, it is easy to spray a little touch up. My only advice is to clean off area to be sprayed really well. I used lacquer thinner as I recall, but put it on a rag first and then light wipe to cut any grease or oil film. The vinyl stuck very... MORE
Hi, Roger.. We do have a lister who has done the Vizard carb (and I believe intake manifold) mods to the stock 1.25SU's. I hope we hear from him. Supposedly with these street mods, the 1.25 set-up will match the flow rate of a stock pair of 1.5's. The foregoing notwithstanding, Vizard improvements are flow bench tested/verified. Today, David is semi- retired working on "improving" American V-8's!! (and did objective testing as well on Oil Extreme...like Grassroots, good results!:). Following Vizard's engine building advice (though substituting a 45DCOE with 38mm throats) I spec'd. a "fast road" 1340 for my... MORE
I suggested the thermostat, unchanged in 140,000 miles might be stuck open...but would it get more open (opener?) as the engine warmed up? Quiet normal if its engine speed related. more water going through the rad, (water pump speeded up) and more air being foced though the rad (more air taing the heat way fron the water). This is why being stuck in traffice will make a car run hot, no real volume of air cooling the rad and slower water circulation! Stewart "Ford Prefect" 28900... MORE
My cuz in Irving called me this morning. He is having trouble with his 97 F150 6 cylinder 300CID....it is underheating. It will barely move the needle off cool, and after a while, gets even cooler! I suggested the thermostat, unchanged in 140,000 miles might be stuck open...but would it get more open (opener?) as the engine warmed up? What is normal? Any suggestions besides change the thermostat? Robert Houston COP QUOTES "Someone, somewhere is practicing. If you're not, and someday, if you should meet, you will lose." "Shoot them until they think they're dead." "I don't believe they... MORE
Hi folks! I have just purchased a 1977 MG Midget 1500 in what I can only describe as 'tired' condition. Although it has an MOT it does have a few faults, and as I am not in the least bit mechanically minded I need some advice as to what repair is required. There is a water leak coming from the engine in quite a steady stream from somewhere at the top of the engine below the head: it is a bit difficult to see exactly where as it is obscured by the manifold and carbs.The water temperature gauge on... MORE
Son and the car are in Cincinnati. Body is good, little rust, no collision damage. We took the 1275 and the trany out to inspect, and all seems o.k. Things I think it would need are : Engine gasket set, clutch and slave, Motor mounts, battery and a soft top. If I where nearer I would have had it on the road. We have had it for about a year with no procross except the inspection. He was going to do the body work first and paint, I was more intrested in getting it running, for fun, then paint... MORE
Ed No I wasn't referring to the rear wing seams. The spridget shell is constructed from many parts and assemblies, many of which have been spot welded together - anywhere you look on the car you will see overlapped steel joints where one 'assembly' has been spot welded to another. It's these 'overlapped' joints where one piece of steel overlaps another piece of steel and has been spot welded that I'm referring to. Because the spot welds are done at intervals down the steel panel, this doesn't form a 'continuous weld' and leaves areas that water can get into... MORE
Duncan Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm If you're getting 'good' adhesion with the aerosol primer, it probably won't make any difference, but the problem is you won't know how good the adhesion was until quite a few coats later and then it will just begin lifting and flaking off! I've had that happen a couple of times, when I haven't used etch primer. So, to be safe, I'd use etch primer instead of the normal primer - you can get etch primer in aerosol cans - I used U-pol Acid #8, (www.u-pol.com) I'm sure you can get it in the US. Just make... MORE
Having just broke two propshafts on a test rig and having to do full risk assesment on the items I can say that..... If you completely dissasmble the propshaft then make sure you mark it up and reassemble everything in the same orientation. Most important is that two pins on the Hookes Joints at each end of the shaft are exactly in the same plane. Because of the spline teeth in the sliding part there is only one possible to way to assemble this correctly. (possibly 180 degrees out, but only if the spline has an even Nr of... MORE
