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G'day Steve No, moving the slave cylinder will make no difference, just like shortening the pushrod will make no difference. (See disclaimer below.) You are dealing with hydraulics here. A push of X" at the pedal will result in movement of Y" at the slave cylinder. Moving the slave cylinder will result in the internal piston being at rest in a different position down the bore of the cylinder, but the distance the piston travels when you hit the pedal will not change. Disclaimer: UNLESS you move the cylinder (or shorten the pushrod) to the point where the piston... MORE
Oh yeah, to answer the other question, they are maintained quite well. Oh, BTW, nice looking car, you may want to have a look at your roof, it looks like you have a few missing shingles.... maybe I should not of said that... LOL! Really, everything I have said can be found out on websites. I even found a website that has a list of everyone that was made and what had happened to it. The ones back in the day when Mr. Powers was shot down were known as U-2C models. Those were mainly used by the CIA.... MORE
the clue was in a previous post, it's all soldered together empty *then* filled with the magic fluid; so the tube will be fed through the housing, then the bulb soldered on. You just need to find a source of the right size tube, a scrap bulb and head and solder it all together. (don't forget to put the protection 'spring' over the tube before you do the soldering - just imagine how you'd feel if you had to re-do it all!) David 28639... MORE
The capilary type temperature gauge is filled with technical ether used to be available from a chemist (drug store!) (may be able to use acetone of swift start - rapid start the calibration may be out but should be able to get boiling point correct) the assembly is soldered together empty a +-1mm hole is driled in the botom of the bulb and the ether injected into the bulb leaving a small amount of air in the system a tapered brass pin (available from clock makers) is then driven into the hole to seal it then imerse the buld... MORE
the covers. Needless to say, the Commander did not think it was too funny! We still had the best seats in the house for that show. about 30 yards off the runway. A bunch of crew chiefs, lawn chairs, and a cooler of beer! I believe that was the show for the unveiling of the "Euro-Fighter". All it too for me and a friend to be the lowest ranking Military at that show was a carton of American cigarettes. That was cool. Matt "matthew pfeil" 28629... MORE
From: robbatley [mailto: robbatley@... ] Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 10:28 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Dual gauge The capilary type temperature gauge is filled with technical ether used to be available from a chemist (drug store!) (may be able to use acetone of swift start - rapid start the calibration may be out but should be able to get boiling point correct) the assembly is soldered together empty a +-1mm hole is driled in the botom of the bulb and the ether injected into the bulb leaving a small amount of air in the system a tapered... MORE
the 1" slave, (with the 3/4" master it makes for a easy clutch), and I do have the Datsun slave cylinder with the L hydrolic line direction, but I think it is 7/8". I am going to a heavy duty oil/hydrolic line supplier in Portland tomorrow to try to get a "Street 90" for my 1" slave cylinder. If they can't do one in a short enough L, is there a Datsun or ??? that is short enough? What do the racers with a 5 speed (the 5 speed switches sides of the transmission of the slave cylinder) and... MORE
Paul, Yes it will crunch going into 1st and reverse Yes it will be harder getting into gears when stationary The "bite point" on the clutch should be further from the floor so it may still need adjustment, But.... nothing beats driving it for a few hundred miles. It will shake any remaining air bubbles out of the hydraulic fluid. It will bed down any contact surfaces, synchro hubs, clutch and release bearing and it will ease the meshing of gears Drive it! Gets some miles under those tyres!! OK, wait till the snow has gone and then drive... MORE
Got everything hooked up, but since it is below zero ouside with 8" of snow, I decided to give the car a bit of a test inside the shop. Am able to shift into each gear, but considerable force is needed. There is a very distinct "crunch" shifting into first and reverse, less so in reverse. The take-off in each gear is smooth, but when the car is in gear with the clutch depressed, there is a substantial amount of noise coming from the tranny area. The clutch begins to engage right as the pedal is being released. The... MORE
Agreed...I was just about to say, Guy W. Assuming correct length rods and correct parts... Spridget clutch systems are notorious for this initial behaviour after initial (and more than just initial!) bleeding. I once left the slave cylinder very slightly open overnight and while there was still more than sufficient fluid in the MC in the AM, it still needed bleeding and we still got air out of it. Real PITA! Used it for a week during which time the level in the MC required slight filling periodically and the pedal moved up off the floor and all was... MORE
What type of oil did you put in the trans? Are you sure the clutch is totally disengaging? "Trevor J." 28593... MORE
Ok, - I'm clearly out-of-line myself as I seem to be out voted unanimously! Bring on the planes, trains and pin-up girls! I'm going away for a week now, - so I just hope my trusty mail server can cope with the accumulated strain of 40 emails a day... I dread to think what the traffic must be like on the more general and miscellaneously titled newsgroups! "Colonel Mustard" 28569... MORE
Castor Oil & Castrol (Castrol R) Got to admit, Dave, I've no clue 'cause I do not know whether the "early" Castrol Oils I grew up with in the late 50's & early 60's were vegetable oil or petroleum based, though I believe it was the later. And the Castrol's before that??? Castrol "R"....formulated for high rpm higher pressure, anti-foam, "racing" oil I would think but here again, not familiar the specific base or formula. But I bet Chuck Christ might know a little about the early Castrol Oils considering his Dad was in racing during Castrol's early days... MORE
Bob I am not sure if it is the same thing, but when I was a very small child my Dad was interested in Motorcycle scrambling and so I was often at scramble events with him (maybe 50 years ago) but I still remember the smell. I think he told me it was Castrol R oil a kind of vegetable oil used in the bikes, could this be the same as your castor oil (or maybe a UK equivalent). Regards Dave "David Dixon" 28509... MORE
Yeah... Vulcans are (were?) cool...thundrous as they shook the ground you were standing on. You could feel it "in your bones"!! As far as props go....radials...yeah... Besides the Merlin and later Sabre Napiers (Tempests, methinks?) the "choppy" radial (until they "turned up" at which time they began to sound almost "turbine" smooth) are also a favorite. But nothing (IMHO) beats the smell of castor oil and the staccato "brruppp, burrrup" of a rotary operating on a stick mounted ignition "kill switch" or button! :) Very kewl! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28500... MORE
David... A flat spot (most especially with a VP3 Kent 276+ cam) is not unusual with a 45DCOE using the larger 4.5 or 5.0 aux venturi. You will notice this carb configured for racing uses the smaller 3.5 aux vent which brings the main system "in" a little earlier in the game. Was using 1.4+ intake valves and a VP3 cam. Noticing this, I changed out my 4.5's for 3.5's and jetted upwards accordingly to 145 mains and 175 air correctors while retaining the 50F9 idle jets the carb came with. (Then I rechecked the ign. timing to make... MORE
Terrors aren't they? I silver soldered some repairs on my radiator about 28 years ago and it is still OK. No one is prepared to take the chance. How much are you having to pay for the new one Jim? Having looked at one of these overflow tanks (my car does not have one) it looks like it may be lead soldered as original (or it might just be the one I looked at) in which case you will have to lead solder it. The important thing if you do this is to increase the mechanical strength of the... MORE
Hi listers. First the question: I see that there are seperate part numbers for the front and rear sump/pan seals (those cork strips). I just got a Payen lower engine gasket kit and both strips looked the same to me. It didn't occur to me that they were supposed to be different so I didn't inspect too close and put them in randomly. Both protruded at least a 1/4" (probably more) at both ends when put in their sump grooves. Should the excess be cut off? If so how much? Or are they just supposed to compress? Now the... MORE
Having looked at one of these overflow tanks (my car does not have one) it looks like it may be lead soldered as original (or it might just be the one I looked at) in which case you will have to lead solder it. The important thing if you do this is to increase the mechanical strength of the joint as well. Solder on its own will have a hard job holding it, because the split is quite wide. There are number of ways of doing this but there is no point in going into great detail if you... MORE
I was thinking more like one of those quick release gun mounts like the cops have right between the front seats. For the sawed off pump 12 gauge. anon "Jon Paschke" 28436... MORE
Better late than never. I just opened my Charcoal canister and have been able to get to the charcoal. After you screw off the bottom look around the threaded edge on the canister body, at fist it just looks like a threaded edge but on close inspection you will see about four slits located around the edge about 1/16" high by about a 3/8" wide. The edge of the round plastic retaining plate, the one with the three plastic bars has protrusions around its edge that snap into these slits. Use a screwdriver blade to push them in working... MORE
or if you are feeling brave, oil the dizzy shaft then put some epoxy putty inside the magnet and push it home. "Jeremy Cogman" 28399... MORE
My '65 Riviera blue Midget has an original white removable hardtop which seals out the weather just fine - and it is quiet. I love the hard top and I do use it a lot here in Pennsylvania when the weather isn't so nice. Warning - they aren't light (the original ones at least.) When it's off the car it is very easy to carry around by yourself but you can't reach far enough over the car from any direction to be able to simply lift it on or off by yourself - it isn't a one man job... MORE
Steve Woohoo! Many congrats. I don't think I am ahead of you Steve, I'm just finishing off the final primer coats on the passenger side wing ready for colour - that will be the last 'bit' on the car that needs to be colour coated. I still have both doors, bootlid and bonnet to colour coat as well. I don't know if you have this book or not - 'Restoring Sprites and Midgets - an Enthusiasts Guide' by Grahame Bristow (Brooklands Books) but it really is a very useful book in terms of reassembly. It's been written with the... MORE
but I don't think it really matters except on the soldered ends where it would prevent proper fusing of the solder to the wire. Further than you think. If you try and cut back to bright copper you get to the other end of the wire. It's also a problem in my radio controlled aeroplane wiring. Make sure you neutralize or throughly wash off any fluid or strong fluxes used to clean the wire or it will corrode through in no time. Terry "terry.isherwood" 28242... MORE
