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But then nobody has mentioned that the braided hoses are very expensive. V.B. says their rubber oil cool hose have a working presure of 400 psi and the SS braided resist up to 2,000 psi. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 31484... MORE
Hi Ben Don't forget that plain rubber hoses aren't just a rubber tube..... or at least they shouldn't be!! The standard hoses should have a sort of fabric mesh inside the rubber, a bit like the wires in a garden hosepipe to stop it expanding under pressure. I've never heard of a plain rubber oil cooler hose popping....if they did nobody would make them! BL fitted plain rubber to Cooper S Mini's, MGB'S and even Midgets (with the optional cooler)and they never gave any problems. James (President of the plain hose fan club) "James" 31482... MORE
The thermostat closes at 170 degrees F. Which means the rubber hose (engine to thermostat) will always be heated to 170 degrees, and the hoses from the thermostat to the oil cooler, sometimes. Rubber at 170 degrees is very pliable and any week spots which develop over time, will blow at the worst possible time and place. With the braided hoses, it will help keep the hose from expanding, forming a bubble at 70-80 lbs of pressure, and blowing a large hole. Replace them when you replace your radiator hoses and you shouldn't have a problem. I have 1500... MORE
'cause Robert... the oil filter isn't "100%" any more than anything else is. Why would you even want to take the chance of possibly introducing "abrasives" into your engine's lifeblood to begin with? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31477... MORE
G'day Ben I have a mate who melted his engine bearings three times in three successive race meetings, before he discovered the problem. The first melt-down was due to oil surge on corners, and he thought he had fixed that by putting a baffle in the sump. Two more melt-downs later, he discovered the oil cooler was clogged with the metal powder from the melted bearings. Don't ever use a second hand oil cooler. And don't forget you will need to buy the oil hose adaptor to the block, and the adaptor to the oil filter. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts"... MORE
G'day Martyn "Stumbling" on initial acceleration is also a syptom of running lean as you crack open the throttle. Once you get to cruising, the combination of damper springs, metering needes and adjustment might give you the right mixture, but the carby piston could be lifting too quickly as you try to accelerate. Try dumping the oil in the dashpots and putting in 20W50 engine oil. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 31444... MORE
"It pays to check everything (new or not)" Amen to this, Alan. Absolutely. The engine is the heart of the car, Alan. Of course, it's always a matter of one's "priorities" when it comes to spending one's hard-earned cash, though an oil cooler set-up is simply not that expensive when you consider the cost of building (or rebuilding?:) the motor. You might say a "new" (rather than used item) is, in this case, cheap insurance in the foregoing respect, "different strokes for different folks", notwithstanding. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31467... MORE
I've got braided hoses but run an "off-engine" oil filter set-up ('cause I like to use the largest filter I can) and I like the protection the braid offers the rubber from any chaf, etc. Yet, James makes excellent and valid points for using rubber. Also, in the event you later decided to install an "oilstat", it's a much easier job with the rubber hoses. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31454... MORE
Well... Usually, a used oil cooler is not a good idea. Why, you may ask? Problem is you don't know the oil cooler's history...and those channels within are pretty small. If the engine the cooler came from was "making metal"....well....you get the point. Sure...you COULD clean the hell out of it, but...is it really "cleaned out" in the aforementioned case? Is it worth saving a couple of bucks to take the chance?? Your motor...your money... your decision!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31453... MORE
Ok, I am sure you all know what POS means. LIC is for Little Italian Car. I am about to acquire an 850 Spider, of late 60's, possibly 1970 vintage. Anyone know if these things have any intrinsic value. It is a complete car, but no title. Burgundy in color, I could take photos if there is an interest. True to form for the LIC's, it is rusted, even here in humid Texas. Please feel free to contact me off list if you are interested. I don't want anyone to have to be embarrassed in front of the rest... MORE
Roger wrote "Perhaps I am a fussy old git, but if you look after your engine by looking after the oil, it will look after you." I agree implicitly And Ed says never do it , fit a new one . (Ed, JustBrits sells oil coolers BTW :^) I agree to a certain extent, however the first time you use your oil cooler it will be second-hand. You will have the satisfaction that any crud that passes through it will be yours though.!!!! I believe if you thoroughly wash out the oil cooler with petrol or degreaser (paraffin /... MORE
Well after posting the message I cooled off and went back out and looked things over. I know that if the pistons open too quickly the engine will get a lot of fuel and not that much air. So I fiddle with the mixture nut and watched the piston when the throttle was opened. The pistons rose but the headers started to glow red! Argghh, I thought I'd timed the cam in better than that. Has anyone had a vernier cam gear slip on them? I don't remember a torque value on the securing screws, it's the Kent gear.... MORE
Hi Ben The stainless braided hoses look good, but my experience with braided hoses (fuel hose) is not positive. I find that the stainless braiding either eats it's way into the rubber hose and chews through it, or the rubber hose inside perishes without showing any visible problem. The first you know about it is when the pipe is dripping in petrol! Ok, oil pipe is thicker and probably under less tension/movement than a petrol pipe and it doesn't 'melt' like some cheap petrol pipes do with modern fuel. Even so I'd rather see the rubber pipe and be... MORE
hi, so looks like i am gonna get a new one, the kit come with oil lines etc! i was planning on gettign the one with s/s braided hoses, apart from looks have these got any benifits over the normal ones? Thanks again for all you Help guys ben Ben Lawlor 31426... MORE
mmm, not that I know of (the previous owner did the original conversion and I replaced the weber with a new one). Sounds like that could produce those symptoms. Where does one get one of these? I assumer they are just fitted between the pump and the carb. Thanks, Alan. "Alan Hearnshaw" 31427... MORE
Martyn... Firstly, check the oil level in the carbs and further, is it "thin" 10 wt or the thicker 20 wt. stuff? Secondly, when it "stumbles" off-idle upon initial acceleration...is there smoke of any sort out the exhaust before it finally "catches" and "go's"? Thirdly...check the timing. For a "stumble" upon initial acceleration is not an unknown symptom of too much initial ignition advance. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31417... MORE
Many would proabably disagree, but I would never use a second hand oil cooler unless I knew its history. If you do there is a lot of cleaning to do internally to make sure that you are not importing some rubish that will ruin your nice engine. Trouble is, you would not know untill things went wrong! Perhaps I am a fussy old git, but if you look after your engine by looking after the oil, it will look after you. R. "Roger Stinson" 31405... MORE
hi all, i got about =A3200 to spend on the car, and i need an oil cooler. do i buy a new oil cooler, or get a 2nd hand one and get some other bits and bobs? I'm never sure of buying 2nd hand parts- last thing i bought was a door from ebay- turned out not be be quite as good as i thought it was. Ben Lawlor 31404... MORE
Hi everyone I hope some one can help me I have a 75 midget 1500 with a dual master brake cylinder My problem is i can't bleed the rear brakes no fluid will come out i have no problem bleeding the front brakes Could i have a problem with my master cylinder?? or the pressure differential warning actuator?? and Is there any way i can test my problem. If anyone can help me plz post it and if you could email me that would be great Thanks ED "nastyboy089" 31379... MORE
Ed.. 2 years isn't that long for the engine/ drivetrain though this will most likely not be so for the hydraulics. Have a portable FIREX standing by. Assuming the fuel pump is doing it's thing, add as much fresh gasoline as you can. Pull the plugs and using a healthy battery, turn over the motor until the oil pressure comes up. Do this in 5 second spurts over a period of time so as not to abuse the starter motor. Reinstall the plugs and fire it up, running initially gently. Good luck! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31381... MORE
Hi all As discussed in the previous thread my 1500 is totally standard bar the K&N filter, which was fitted and set up by the MGOC on their rolling road. However it has always been a bit hesitant, especially pulling away from cold. I also noticed it yesterday when it was fully warmed up and I was driving along at about 40.Ipressed the pedal down to accelerate and there was a definate hesitation, almost like turbo lag. Naturally I checked under the bonnet to see if some wag had fitted a turbo, but alas not! When I bought the... MORE
Terry, ask them! When I was insured through MGOC (Lancaster Ins.) for my 1500, I put in a fast road cam, LCB exhaust, overdrive gearbox and oil cooler. I notified them and they said it made no difference to the premium. Guy "Guy Weller" 31365... MORE
"Rattle on start-up" Well, sounds like some one has allowed the motor to race upon initial start ("dry" motor) prior to allowing the oil pressure to come up, resulting in pre- mature wear (or damage) to bearings. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31302... MORE
Hi Ben Converting the head by fitting hardened valve seats is the only proper answer. I take the view that the worst that can happen by using unleaded is a valve buring out, in which case all that needs to be done is to have the hardened seats fitted at that point(and a new valve of course!) The additives are bad news as not only are they expensive but if the car is not used regularly it can form a gunge in the tank and clog up fuel pipes and jets etc. LRP hasn't been available where I live... MORE
James... Could not agree more with your take on "properly" going unleaded with respect to cylinder head, etc. I noted you were using "regular unleaded" before switching over to Shell Optimax. As I am in the USA we may be using the same words but with different meanings.... ...do I understand you to mean "regular" (as in low-octane unleaded) or "regular unleaded" as in "normally available at the corner pump" unleaded "hi-test" (aka "premium"). I think your gasoline is shown in RON at the pump "over there" while we utilize PON "over here". But adding about 3 numbers to... MORE
