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BECKERS states (in part).. "....it lowers fuel octane anyway" Yeah, this is true and a tough one to call (except in a high compression motor or when higher octanes are available at reasonable cost) against crankcase evacuation of vapors/pressures with respect to oil being forced passed seals or out the rear scroll "seal". But it's basically why I run "vented" instead of "evacuated", the thought of introducing oil (in any amount) into the combustion process "going against the grain" personally, though there are cases (Judson and to a lesser extent, Shorrocks applications) where this comes with the territory so... MORE
Paul.... Assuming you are using the normal intake manifold mounted stock PCV valve, most likely the rubber diaphragm is "weak"....we all know what happens to rubber exposed to ozone (air) either sitting on a shelf in a parts wharehouse or mounted on an engine which has sat for a long period of time. The high idle along with intermitten excessive "smoking" is almost a dead giveaway. Check that hose between the flame arrester and the PCV valve as well. Rubber develops "hairline" cracks with age. Like most rubber, it lasts longer when used (not abused) while exposed to whatever... MORE
Thanks to all the "start-up" advice, the initial run-in went without a hitch. But a strange problem cropped up. Engine is a fresh high compression 1275 with PCV only. It would run very well for the first few minutes, and then start to belch smoke the likes of which few could imagine. It would do this for a couple minutes, then run normal again. Also, I could not get it to idle below 1200 rpm despite the fact that the carbs were fresh and were properly set up. With throttles CLOSED it still idled at about 1200. After doing... MORE
G'day Peter C I pack the oil pump with black moly grease (Molybdenum Disulphide). The oil picks up straight away, the moly does no harm at all to the bearings etc, and it all gets dumped out 30 minutes later anyway. Yes, I know you can prime the pump through the hole in the left rear corner, but my thumb get sore pushin down the plunger on that oil can. Now here's another way of priming the pump. You know where the oil line goes into the rear of the block on the right hand side? Well directly below... MORE
G'day Paul I agree with everything Rex said. But after 20 minutes of running at 2,500 to 3,000 rpm and then 10 minutes of silence, I retorque the head and adjust the tappets. And I dump the oil and change the filter right then. There are ALWAYS some metal filings floating around in there, from when the block was re-bored etc, and after 20 minute of running they should all be in the oil by now. I don't want them floating around in the oil and through the bearings for another 500 miles, so I refresh the oil and... MORE
Peter, Right you are. I wondered if anyone would realize that the distributor drive gear is connected to the camshaft which actually turns the oil pump. Lots of wasted time doing it this way if you ask me. Its your money.....I heard of one fellow that hooked up a presurized bug spray can with oil in it to the oil gauge feed pipe or something and pumped oil through his engine before starting. I heard it killed bugs for miles when he drove by for years afterwards. LOL Really, I think that this is to anal for a common... MORE
Don't forget to fill the oil filter bowel and make sure the filter is well and truly soaked before turning the engine over. Alan "Alan" 27850... MORE
Rex, Old Hot Rodder trick. Pack the oil pump with Vaseline. Lots nicer to work with and does the trick quite nicely. Used it on my first start. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 630-841-6077 robbiesg@... 27848... MORE
Rex, On my race engines, and street engines for that matter, on the first start up, I take several pans of boiling water and fill the radiator and cooling system. It brings the block up to about 150 degrees or so. I have been told by some old drag racing engine builders that 90% of the wear and damage of a first start up is because of the cold parts, with minimum lube, under pressure are rubbing and scraping. Having a hot engine, and up to oil pressure from the first start does wonders for engine life. Oil flows... MORE
(Metallic/non-metallic ontamination) the reason behind magnetic drain plugs, "magnetic" oil flters and scheduled oil/filter changes every 3 months or so many miles as recommended by the mfgr. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27852... MORE
Peter... My mechanic packs the oil pump with..... grease!! Same grease he uses when lubricating chassis/suspension grease nipples. He will also turn the engine over with a drill via the distributor drive to ensure oil pressure before the actual start. His "way". Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27839... MORE
Paul, Yes, there is a proper way to break in your engine. The first 20 min will tell if your engine will live a long life or die at an early age. Lots of people have differant ideas on how to run it in for the first 1000 miles. I will tell you how I do it at work and what I reccomend to my customers. When we go to start up a new one we always go through the same check list. All fluids up to specs. Gravity fill the oil cooler if installed. Make sure the fuel... MORE
Now the the engine will start, I am installing the new fuel pump in the next day or so. In between answering MG questions and completely pissing off all females on the planet, the Cap'n indicated there was a "right" way to initially run-in a motor, at least during the first 20 minutes. I'm clueless. Help would be appreciated. Don't want to end up with an expensive boat anchor. Merry Christmas! Paul "dfwip" 27826... MORE
Samuel, IMO the time to do your head is when it's wet and cold , can be done indoor s , try the using kitchen !!!!!!!. Then refit it before the sun comes out so you can be driving. I'm assuming you will be grinding in the valves , I didn't realise the old engines were fitted with valve stem seals, I thought that was a more modern innovation. (or are they fitted to 1500s - I only 'know' A series) Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
Samuel... Question to those "in the know" ought to be...is it really necessary to remove the head to replace one intake valve seal? Or have I misunderstood in that you mean a "leaky" valve? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27789... MORE
yes, it's not too difficult a job; it's even possible to do the valve stem seals (is that what you mean?) with the head still on, though paradoxically it's probably trickier to do that way. There are no particular pitfalls I can think of, just make sure the engine's cold before you loosen anything, get a workshop manual for torqueing the nuts up in the right order, oh, and don't forget to refit the little bypass hose between the head and water pump *before* you screw the head down. Regards David "David Jacobs" 27776... MORE
G'day Paul Here's an idea from Oz. If you use too long a bolt in the flywheel, it can stick out the back and hit the half-moon seal above the rear bearing cap. Could be that the problem is marginal, and it's clearing two of them but hitting the third. If this is the problem, the engine needs to come out. But then, I think you have eliminated so many things now that the engine needs to come out anyway. Then you can remove one piece at a time until you find the culprit. And of course, you will... MORE
ugh,..my prized 62 1098 midget has been diagnosed with a leaking valve seal,...has anybody pulled a head and done the valves?..i'm told its pretty straightforward.. i may enlist old fried Don May to help out with this,..so i would like to have some extra imfo so when we pull the head so can we know what to look for. any wisdom lad and ladies?,..i plan to tackle this after the hollidays and the rains clear up,..i miss driving junior! cheers, happy hollidays. samuel "modernlmi2000" 27772... MORE
Paul, we all got there in the end, It's usually something simple when you can't figure out the problem. I wish I could have been a bit more precise when relating to the similar (mini) engine build problem I had many years ago. All I could remember was a long bolt fouling on something but couldn't remember where. It wasn't the oil filter bracket though. Oh well. Alls well that ends well. Looking on the bright side, you got your clutch working, you didn't have to drop the sump / remove the head or pull the engine out. SPILLUNG... MORE
Trevor- Your "random" thoughts are really good. YOU GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You got me to thinking about the oil filter bracket on the side of the motor. I used new bolts. I pulled the bracket off this morning and the VERY TIP of one bolt showed contact. I knew immediately I had found it. So your thought about "oil" together with the other guys that kept telling me it was a "too big bolt in too small hole" issue solved it. MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!! Now the final problem. The bolt that showed the hit was the rearmost bolt. If you remember,... MORE
Paul, Congrats. It was not a mistake, it was just one of those things that happen and now about 500 of us listers will think about the length of bolts that go into lumps where things are spinning. It was good for all of us. Especially you because it was an easy fix. I don't think you have to worry about any damage. I would just change the oil and filter after perhaps 30 minutes of running just to make sure any metal chips are out of the system. Keep us up on how it starts and runs. Cheers,... MORE
Paul, So you are the one that installed the flywheel and the clutch? Did you use the correct bolts? The use of the improper bolts on the flywheel could cause your problem. If they stick out the rear of the crankshaft they could foul up on the backng plate or possibly on the three bolts that hold on the rear main cap oil slinger. Also by using to long of bolt through your pressure plate into (through) the flywheel the same thing could occur. I'm not sure but I think it could hit the oil pump cover. Sure hope... MORE
Don- Your point is well taken. Just to eliminate the possibility, I will go ahead and get the clutch working. Everything is rebiult or new, with stainless sleeving. Just a matter of adding fluid and bleeding. I will do so. Starter is installed. If it is a problem, how could I get 345 degrees out of the crank? But you are correct. It is installed. Think it should go on the removal list? Thanks for your help. Paul "dfwip" 27723... MORE
Be sure and pull the starter (easy) and check inside with a light and mirror, and listen in the hole for sound. (Long bolt) Chances are that a long bolt would not stop engine at TDC but somewhere in the cycle. (random). Use the broomstick! It can't ;possibly just stop with out making a noise unless someone left a red grease rag in a cylinder. I am taking Vegas odds on the cause. I think if it stops at TDC, it is something in the Cyl, but my vote goes for a long bolt (Non TDC stopping) in a... MORE
"No hydro fluid for clutch" . . . so the clutch is not disengaged and the transmission is not disconnected from the engine during your attempts to turn over the engine. You may still be in a possible situation where the fault could be the transmission locking up while in gear but not in neutral. Don "Don May" 27707... MORE
