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OK, Claire...let's work the problem a bit. You keep talking of a vapor/oil seperator. Where exactly is this part located on your engine, if not on the timing chain cover. I ask specifically because the year of the car may not be the year of the engine, Claire. Fr'instance, a late 10cc engine (1098) would have the vapor/oil separtor cannster located on one of the valve lifter side covers under the intake manifold instead of attached to the timing chain cover like the later 1275 engines. Factory stock PCV valve: The "appearance" of the rubber diaphragm can be decieving.... MORE
I've just recently bought an 1967 Austin Healey Sprite that was in need of some TLC, however I've also since found out it's got a few parts 'missing'! One of those was the flame trap that connects through flexible hoses the block to the inlet manifold (it doesn't have the 'Y' connector). Since fitting the missing part it now won't run properly. It has started to kick out loads of white smoke & a little bit of blue. We've compression tested the engine, fitted a new head gasket & set up the carbs so they are fine. We've now... MORE
Hi, "Cheers"... Let's get our parts straight, first. I am a little confused by your terms and the way they are used. The PCV system on the '67 is very simple. It consists of a factory diaphragm type PC V valve mounted on (in) the inlet manifold, which is fed via a flexible hose from the vapor/oil separator (aka "flame arrestor) mounted on the timing chain cover on the front of the engine. It is a "graduated orifice" (diameter of hole specific to the application). It is an "outlet". The "inlet" consists of a graduated orifice embedded within the... MORE
Hello Folks Thought I would toss this out for a little help. I have a 1971 MG Midget 1275 I got in last night to take a drive and she really had a hard time having any get up and go. (she would go about 70 but it had a hard time to get there) So I checked the oil in the dash pots that was good So then I checked to see if maybe the choke was stuck open looks good So then I took a look at the fuel filter I took it off and blow it... MORE
Kevin, 1500 run pretty clean ususally. I got a '75 to pass in California without a working (gutted( air pump and blocked air injection lines. I would think the EGR valve is essential though. Make sure the carb is properly tuned at that you choke is complete off with the car warmed up. I would run the carb as lean as possible and do a fresh oil change before having it tested. I don;t have a lot of experience with SMOG cars, so maybe someone else has somethig to ad. Gerard "gerardchateau" 24721... MORE
Are you looking for just the electrical switch and wiring harness portion of the switch? I'm assuming your 'double-d' hole has rounded out on you or the wiring is mangled? I have a NOS elec switch with harness as spare here. I had one 'mechanically fail on me (plastic part messed up and metal pin wouldn't turn it) so when I found a new one I bought 2! Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 24697... MORE
Jay, That's probably what I'll end up doing. Just wanted to see if someone out there had done something creative in that area. Rob C 75 Midget-some pin striping and non-factory 3 tone paint. robbiesg@... 24688... MORE
Brad!! You don't know where the water went to? You gotta find out (obviously!!:). You running a bypass hose? Is it old (worn)? These little devils (most especially the new "fluted" ones) develop little pinholes (before they develop a big one "all of a sudden") and slowly seep water. Usually it shows up in the vicinity of the steering box on the rack looking like oil. Of course, they don't leak when running unpressurized! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24690... MORE
Jeeze! What a day, eh?! :( First you lose the water you need, than you get a load of it in the wrong places.... this does bite the big one. It's a matter of wait and see, Brad. The damage (if any) often does not show up immediately, but downline a couple of thousand miles or so. You can get a head start on this though, by taking a compression and leak-down ASAP and noting the figures...save 'em. Take another "set" a thousand miles or so down the road and compare. If they are basically the same, you most... MORE
Brad, A couple things. Hopefully you have dodged a bullet. I have heard stories of A-series engine overheated to the point of seizing up but running again once cooled down. I'm not saying that no damage occurs, but while not good, not necessarily fatal either. I would keep an eye on your oil because symptoms could be delayed. A weakened head gasket or crack around a valve could develop problems later. Other things I've seen as evidence of overheating are damage to pistons and rings from the swelling. Pistons will show significant scuffing on the skirts where they hit... MORE
Don That still doesn't make them 'Original Equipment' Don! Just because some 'over-enthusiastic customisation and personalisation crazy' North American Dealer want's to make LBC's shipped over from England more attractive to the North American consumer DOES NOT make pin stripes OE as defined by the factory or as they left the factory! But yes, if you like they may well be original to the car as provided by the Dealer - but what relevance is that in the general scheme of things? Dealers are as much to blame for messing cars about as PO's are! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24574... MORE
Gerard I looked at your 71 Flame Midget and that side stripe does not look original to me, but something added by an over-enthusiastic PO of North American origin, who are so fond of this type of 'customisation and personalisation'. Of all the Midgets I've seen over the years over here, which is considerable, I have never once seen a pin stripe on them. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24561... MORE
Gerard I was aware of that 1500 Midget Special, which was specific to North America, but you can hardly call that 'graphic motif' a pin stripe can you? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24560... MORE
Don Pin stripes were never OE as far I can tell, although the Gold/Green special Anniversary Midget did have gold pin stripes, but that's the only one I know of. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24556... MORE
Rob, that is were the double pinstripes on my 73 are located, just below the door handle between the handle and lock. White double ones that have sort of a half arrow shape at the front. I have an original British Leyland sales brochure for the 74 midget however it does not list pin strips as an option. Don "Don May" 24551... MORE
Welcome, Sam... Suggest you follow DLancer's advice and be prepared to do both rear brakes as well (unless the other side is basically new) as that oil usually renders that particular side useless in this respect.... Afraid I do not have the parts you seek, though I do already have a copy of Blaggot's fine book, thank you! As far as additives go, don't exactly know what motivates you in this, Sam. Usually, a quality brand is all that is required along with oil/filter changes every 3K or so. It is the additive package which is usually the difference... MORE
Hello, i'm new to the group and I am looking for just a few bits,..mostly a period radio, a stock muffler, and (I realize its a stretch and yes, I know I can get one on e-bay or through the standard mail order companies, but it never hurts to ask) a black carpet kit for my 1962 midget. I also have a spare copy of John Blaggots book "Mighty Midgets and special sprites"...its very nice book and its in perfect condition. aaand while I have your attention, I have oil running out my back left hand side rear wheel... MORE
The story.for those who tuned in late..... 1275 rebuilt to 1400cc,9.75 : 1 Cr 643 cam, weber 45DCOE. Engine sat for 16 years after rebuild,started for the first time last july, 2000 miles since. Burns and leaks oil. Compression test results: Cold no plugs 195,205,200,205 Cold 3 plugs 205,203,195,192 Cold 3plugs oil 230,225,225,215 Hot compression test -no plugs 205,210,210,210 Hot 3 plugs 175,185,190,185 Hot 3 plugs oil 225,210,210,200 It was suggested that I switch to a vented oil filler cap to reduce smoking and it appears to have cut it down but did not stop it. Need to drive... MORE
Hello all, I'm looking for information on how the emissions controls are configured on a 77. Specifically how the Air pump & EGR valve are setup. Right now on mine the air pump feeds though a check valve directly to a connector on the tail end of the exhaust manifold. Did that year have a diverter or gulp valve? The EGR valve is missing. Did it have one? How was it hooked up? There is an elbow connector on the air intake manifold that isn't hooked up to anything. I've been looking at pictures of engines on the web,... MORE
In the process of checking out the clutch slave cylinder linkage I reached up to move aside the ground strap a bit to have a better view. The strap is from the lower clutch slave cylinder bolt to the chassis frame, the normal original configuration. It appeared to be a full strap, although covered with oil and dirt as they often are. A gentle push and it moved aside in two pieces, only a few strands were left under the dirt and oil and they parted under the least amount of pressure . . . Nothing can be taken... MORE
G'day Bill, Don etc The barrel of the boot lock is different to the doors and the ignition. However the same key should fit. You can remove the barrel from the boot lock - but only if you have the key!!!!!!!!! Otherwise the tumblers jam behind the chrome dress piece that the key fits into. When you inset the key, the tumblers withdraw into the barrel and the barrel can be removed. After you have removed the lock pin. Which you get to after you have filed off the crimps and removed the cover for the retaining spring. Assuming... MORE
Colin, you are always an amazing source of information and taking time to share it. Fortunate we are to have you on the list. Yesterday in a fit of curiosity I took the boot lock off the 69 and disassembled it and was lucky as the 73 boot key after some wiggling allowed me to turn the barrel on the 69 to remove it. Had it not been for that bit of luck, as you say, it would have been impossible to remove the barrel. Filed off the crimps as you did and will drill and insert a pin... MORE
"Improving cooling" 1. Thorough flush/"reverse flush" of entire system with proprietary "cleaner" 2. *80/20 Distilled Water/Anti-Freeze Mix or 100% Distilled Water with can of proprietary lube/anti-corrosion additive and a couple of drops or diswashing liquid or appropriate amount of "Water Wetter" 3. Modern aluminum "deep impellor" water pump..Colin Dodds reports "County" brand has a slightly deeper impellor than "AE" brand. Both good. 3. ^^Block Cyl. Head/Water Pump Bypass 4. *68C Thermostadt or Blanking Sleeve 5. 4.5" Cooper "S" Water Pump Pulley 6. Recore/upgrade stock rad or go "aluminum" altogether *Summer Only ^^Drill 1/4" hole in thermostadt plate as "new"... MORE
That's is what I pay. I supply the frame, dismantled, cleaned, polished, protected, with new fitting screws and new rubber seal. I get it back with new glass, fitted and assembled. its for a '71 Sprite. "Guy Weller" 24405... MORE
Hi You can do it yourself, but it can be a pretty tricky job to do. First thing to watch out for is in the dismantling process, a lot of the brackets that hold the windscreen together have seized screws, if you damage them, or split the heads you've got a problem. Assuming you successfully dismantle the frame assembly the resassembly process is as follows - 1 Mount glass into new rubber beading surround. 2 Use vaseline or soap or washing up liquid to fit the glass and beading into the frame and fit side pieces. 3 Get some... MORE
