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I have a nasty crack in the windsheild of my '76 midget. One shop in town would be happy to replace the glass...for $600. The competing shop has a much more reasonable price quote, but they dont stock clear glass, and would have to put a piece with a slight green tint in. From the workshop manual, it doesnt look like a terribly difficult job, but the book doesnt give many details beyond the removal and refit of the entire frame. Is it a job I can do with my fair technical knowledge and a few extra hands? Is... MORE
George, I have not followed this entire thread, but see you original message included. If my suggestion has already been mentioned, then never mind. The besta way to sort out the source of the problem is a leak-down test. This requires compressed are and a special set of gauges that will compare the pressure in with the pressure out. A difference of 10 percent or more indicates a problem. It will also tell you the source of the leak by listening to where the air is escaping, (valves rings, head gasket, etc.) One thing that sometimes causes your symptoms,... MORE
Actually this does sound like a seized compressor, Did you get the oil changed with the gas? , AC systems MUST have a certain amount of oil in them, and if they have been leaking gas you can put money on some of the oil having leaked out as well, if this was not replaced when the system was regassed then you can bet the compressor is now FUBAR internally. try reaching down and turning the compressor by hand (engine off car not running), it should if it's OK be easy to turn the end of the compressor, if... MORE
George... I think you have three problems: 1.The intake manifold mounted PCV system uses the vented/filtered oil filler cap to provide for incoming air. 2. The most effective crankcase scavenging consists of a feed to the PCV valve from below the pistons. 3. The "cover" to the old mechanical fuel pump fitting on the forward left side of the block just above the flange can be used as a "source" for relieving lower crankcase vapor/pressure in place of the old takeoff on the stock timing case cover which no longer exists, in consideration of your new timing cover set-up... MORE
George, Are the rocker shaft and rocker bushings in good condition? If it looses too much oil from the shaft, then it will flood the valve guides and draw oild through to into the ports Guy "Guy Weller" 24292... MORE
Simultaneous smoking exhaust and leaking can be caused by build up of crankcase pressure. The A-series doesn't have a real rear crank seal, and even a slight positive crankcase pressure will cause it to leak, maybe lots. The same for exhaust smoke. With the engine running, remove the oil fill cap and put your hand over the opening to close it off. You should feel a slight vacuum - not a lot, maybe, but enough to feel. Increase engine speed and feel that too. If you feel pressure, even slight, that's a problem. New rings and 200+ psi sounds... MORE
My 1400cc engine which sat for a number of years after being built smokes. Between burning and leaking it goes through a quart every 200 miles or so. I've done a hot compression check and get 205, 210,210 and 210. (compression ration is 9.75:1). My thinking is that the problem is in the head, valve stem seals or guides, or with the rocker arm shaft, based on the consistent compression readings. I remember someone saying that even with good compression the problem could be bad oil control rings. Thoughts, comments, suggested diagnostic tests, would be appreciated. Thanks "george07876" 24254... MORE
wow.... 210? seems high for only 9.75:1 regardless.... Did you properly break in the engine before it sat all that time? Rings could simply not be seated yet.... and with that kind of compression, yes the 'blow-by' alone could blow that much oil out very easily. Seriously.... do you have a breather recirculation system? (crank fumes returned to the intake?) If so I'll bet the backs of the intake valves are already a nasty mess of oil sludge. Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 24260... MORE
Not familiar with '77 UK cars...maybe they are the same emissions-wise as our US 1500's....not sure. I think there is supposed to be SOME pressure in the tank...shouldn't be enough to get by cap's seal, though. Maybe something as simple as a new gas cap (seal)? But there is a charcoal cannister in there under the bonnet? The fuel tank/sysem vents through this and the engine breathes inbound through this as well? The charcoal cannister also has a vent line which needs to be open... it's pretty small. And the charcoal element needs replacing every once in a while.... MORE
First - will someone who has experience resolving off-idle stumble with a Weber DGV on a 1275 please post me off-list. General parameters: 1275, std bore, stock cam, head milled, Crane optical ignition, header. Use an aftermarket electric fuel pump with a pressure regulator set to 3.5 pounds. Engine has never idled this well in the 33 years I've owned it (even as low as 700rpm), idle set at 900rpm, performance above 2000 rpm is excellent. It just stumbles in the 1500 - 1700 rpm range when you hit the gas. Makes double- clutching a bit dicey. Have done... MORE
Hello all, new to the list, new to Midgets. Question: I've got a '77 that backfires between shifts under heavy acceleration. I know why; there's excess fuel being dumped into the exhaust between shifts and detonating; I just don't know the cause. The 2 possible causes I've come up with is the air pump is supplying air to the exhaust when it shouldn't (bad valve?) or the non stock exhaust the car has (just 1 tiny Walker muffler) is allowing the fuel laden exhaust to reach air before sufficiently cooled. Which of these are more plausible, or is there... MORE
No Bob, I wouldn't say fitting the liners made the block stiffer. But most blocks vary around 6 to 8 grade cast iron, and the liners are 22 grade - finer grains, more consistent, stronger material. So the rings bed in better, you get a better seal (against the finer grain of the liner) and the engine lasts longer as the bore doesn't wear as much. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 24115... MORE
G'day Brad The valve stem diameters are the same. You can squeeze 1275cc valves into a 1098cc head (12G295) if you want to, but you will need to open the combustion chamber up quite a bit to allow gas flow around the valve, or you are defeating the purpose. Really no great advantage. 1275cc head will fit on 1098cc block, but if you have a high lift cam, and/or 1.5:1 rockers, the exhaust valves will hit the top of the block face. You will need to machine a crescent out of the block, up to .100" deep (I just... MORE
Valve stem diameters are the same for 1098 and 1275 (and 948) engines. So are the rear plate gaskets. If by front gasket, you mean timing chain cover gasket, that's the same too. As to the moving liner, the only way to salvage that block would be to find (or have made) a liner with a sufficiently larger OD than the one in it now. That may not be possible or practicable, so that block may be scrap. I'd rather have a bored block than a sleeved one anyway. "Jeffrey Holmes" 24077... MORE
Well, Nigel... Your searching for something here but it's not about the 1500 or a correct way to modify or sort the handling on a car. With respect to the 1500, It's mostly all add-on stuff to the original type so the mfgs. could extend the life of the type while meeting later day safety standards. As such, all "earlier" prior specs and parts are available so it's not as though one is dealing with a new type. So, none of this is really rocket science as I am sure you know, though some bending here and there may... MORE
We put the pan back onto the 1275, but cannot go further until I have the proper gaskets. I will not make them out of silicone!! So, in the interim, we took the 1098 apart. The problem we found, in the removing the frozen pistons, is that there are sleeves on the back two cylinders. One of the sleeves was moving when I was trying to pound the piston out. What holds the sleeve still? I want to build a motor for the Frogeye, to get it on the road, until the 1275 is built. I have two guys... MORE
Capt, I was going to send this directly to you, however, as usual you don't know when to shut your hole (your choice of which hole I'm speaking of). So this is going to the lists you posted on and at least those who haven't already put you on their trash list will see the reply. Cap'n. Bob "Great....Paul goes around breaking the feet of little dumb animals....that's heartwarming news for the soul. Buy a long range squirt gun for crissake!" Paul is trying to be a good guy. As he says, he's got them 'trained' now. I use... MORE
Things at work have finally settled down from the past few months. We have gotten a second weekend off in a row, and I was able to get the mechanic from the truck shop to come over to my house this a.m. at 8:30. Some of you know, the 68 Sprite locked itself into first gear a while ago. It also had the original engine it rolled out of the factory with still in it, all smoking and original. If I am to repair the tranny, I will replace the engine, if only temporarily, to fix the original one.... MORE
Don, I currently own a 1500 and have done for about 8 years but only driven 1275's (in various states of tune) so I don't know how objective my observations are but here goes... For standard vs standard the 1500 certainly has more torque and IMO is perhaps easier to drive around town in traffic althought at pretty subective i guess. It also has syncro on 1st. However, although (well mine at least) is silky smooth even at unadvisably high revs the 1275 always seems to me more comfortable reving very high. not to say the 1500 won't but... MORE
I don't know if this will help, but... My friend (who runs a repair shop in So.cal for British cars) recently started working on a 75 midget and the clutch would not disengage. He told me he fixed it with the following process. Remember, this was done because the clutch would not release (like it was continually "in gear and rolling"). They push started it in second gear. Got it going fast enough to get it into third gear (without the clutch). Then stood on the brakes while it was in third gear and rolling. The car shook and... MORE
Just got my repair manual. It is a big help. Checked the fluid levels in both the clutch and transmission. Topped them both off. No change. Bled the slave. It had air. No change. Clutch still isn't disengaging. That is about the extent of what I can do in my backyard and will be sending it to the doctor on Monday. Didn't see any place (in the manual) that indicated that the clutch can be adjusted. Didn't touch the turn signal. Thanks for the help. "Rick & Deb" 23934... MORE
I am looking at removing the air cleaner (and box) and the warm air tube from my '79 midget. I would like to replace with something a little sportier(?), like a K&N chrome round air cleaner. Since I don't have an air pump on the car, I assume the smog stuff doesn't work anyway. I only drive it in the summer, so the heat riser isn't doing much, that I can tell. Does anyone have a suggestion for a replacement air cleaner? "Michael " 23921... MORE
Sure, Mike... I already have the outside air intake hole fabricated and a 4" rubber tube for the mailbox I bought to be used as a "cold air box". I will "fashion" it once I have decided whether to stay with the double SU set-up or go with my 45 DCOE. Gotta do a little experimenting with various choke sizes on the Weber first, though. The box will breath engine compartment air in the winter months and cooler outside air (for better performance) in the warmer months. Best of both worlds! :) Paint your box with whatever paint/ color... MORE
Hmm... I would look for a K&N filter to use within the air box and turn the box into a "cold air" box by running appropriately sized rubber tubing to it from an outside air source. Cooling of the induction air charge makes for HP!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23923... MORE
No criticism intended, Don May... ....just curious. Weber 45 carbs have many tiny channels as well. Even with a good K&N filter, grit gets in there also, blocking (most likely) the idle and progression systems so, I believe it.... doesn't take much at all. In the case of the Weber, the tiny stuff can be seen in the bottom of the float bowl. Looked like tiny specks of sand but most likely, corrosion from an older fuel tank I bet. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23905... MORE
