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I thought 1.5-2 psi was optimal for the SUs and anything more would be a problem (of course every car has its own quirks). I have my regulator set around 2 psi (WAG). However by my seat of the pants I have a funny feeling that during high speed extended runs it "feels" like it stumbles just a bit. I haven't tried bumping up the pressure just yet. I am thinking fuel starvation due to slightly to pressure being a bit low. When I first installed and set the regulator it was way too low and the rear carb... MORE


Cap'n Bob Good news! I installed a new OP switch, filter and new oil. Took the car out on a good 45 min run and no warning light. What a relief. So far, so good. Was happy to hear Jens made out well too with his pressure issues. Thanks for the encouragement. Mike mk2sprite@... 32605... MORE


Hi, Peter... I am no 1500 guy but I've been following the thread on the discussion of longer studs needed for certain valve covers produced for the 1500 Spit motor. I just came across something in my TriumphTune performance manual which apparently deals with this. TriumphTune (TT) Part #105123 "On late 1500 models after '78, longer studs will be required wherein tube nuts are fitted as standard" This pertains to valve covers, all using the standard gasket. Sounds like what you may be looking for? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32602... MORE


Martyn... The SU pump pressure is pre-set (though it may be adjustable...I dunno!:) and comes "fully compatible" for SU carbs. This having been said, it's possible to get a "bad" new part....a "lemon", if you will. Test it with a fuel pressure gauge. If it's putting out more than 3.5-4.0 psi, it's got a problem. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32601... MORE


The fuel pump is a new SU one so I would assume that it is set for SU carbs. Is the pressure adjustable or do I have to use an external regulator?. The needles hold pressure until the engine is started and the it starts overflowing. I've order some standard jets to replace the Grose ones. Martyn meastwood1@... 32599... MORE


Jens... Belay my last message regarding a "seat" in the block re: the oil pressure reliefe valve. WRONG!!! Not there! I'm thinking of something else. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32584... MORE


Jens... Whew!! Glad you found the problem and it's a "cheapo" fix. A new engine will give around 75psi cold and this will drop to about 65-70 @ 3,000 rpm when hot. Even this (when hot) is too high. Shorten the spring until you get the above figures for a start. Then purchase an "oil pressure regulator" and fit this instead, using the aforementioned spring. The regulator will not affect the idling oil pressure, just the max pressure. Set initially to 60 @ 3,000rpm "hot" then as the engine wears over time/miles, you can "dial up" the max, keeping... MORE


Wow was that e relief, we worked at it all evening yesterday until very late, at one moment we thought that we would have to pull the engine. A tap was the solution, we managed to thread it in a good long way as it was only bearly big enough and it took some real pulling with a grip wise plier, but it finaly came. It was badly scared with several long deep markes all the way lenghtwise. And this bugger was made from aluminium. I havnt had time to run the engine good and warm yet with the... MORE


link to the same item I purchased on ebay. This one is up for sale now. It comes complete with the screws and cap. I had to purchase the gasket separately. Ended up paying just under $100 for all, considering shipment from across the pond. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ViewItem&category=27380&item=2481005041&rd=1 Ed, I took a look at your website. Good site. Looked at your page on stud removers. Pictures are good, but what about the price? Assume you are not the provider, but sublet the sale of these items to someone else? Still planning my attack on addressing this stud issue. Pete "Pete... MORE


Follow the attached link for a rather good article aqs to why oil pressure drops when temperature increases. http://www.advanceautoparts.com/howtos_tips/automedia_html/ccr/ccr2001 0101ov/index.html? page=/howtos_tips/automedia_html/ccr/ccr20010101ov/ccr20010101ov.htm Basically as the temp increases the oil gets thinner, the pressure drops BUT the quantity of oil flowing through the system INCREASES. If my memory serves me right from college many moons ago - Boyles law i.e. P.V.T Equation must balance Alan "Alan" 32568... MORE


Bob i have no plans of removing the seat, just the plunger that sits infront of the spring. After taking the spring out the metal plunger (valve) is still inside playing a bugger to come out. Captn, we did think of your suggestion as a possible solution but couldnt qite immagine the consequenses. You recon this is ok do you! PS! i have also ordered the new spring to suit the steel ball valve. As far as i remember when fitting it the original valve was made of aluminium which is rather a soft metall compared to steel, i... MORE


link to the same item I purchased on ebay. This one is up for sale now. It comes complete with the screws and cap. I had to purchase the gasket separately. Ended up paying just under $100 for all, considering shipment from across the pond. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ViewItem&category=27380&item=2481005041&rd=1 Ed, I took a look at your website. Good site. Looked at your page on stud removers. Pictures are good, but what about the price? Assume you are not the provider, but sublet the sale of these items to someone else? Still planning my attack on addressing this stud issue. Pete Jim... MORE


Hi fellas! I am coming back to you with a possible solution to my oil pressure problem. My problem was that to start with i had a very good oil pressure 60-80lb, but as the engine was warming up it gradualy went down. I think we have found the problem, and we recon it must be the pressure release valve that expands as everything is warming up and sets in a slightly open position. I have bought the ball type valve from Minispares and we planned on fitting it today, the engine is warm and we cant shift the... MORE


Oh... You're right across the Sound from me (Stamford, CT), Mike. So I guess I know the temperatures you're running in, eh? :) Well, you've definitely got the right oil for the season for sure, and an excellent brand at that. And you haven't got an oil cooler thermo- stat (oilstat) problem 'cause you've got no oil cooler, so we'll forgoet about this as a possible source for low pressure. OK...we'll await word on the accuracy of the "sender" for the light. BTW...from the TriumphTune Performance Manual, 5th edition by Terry Hurrell (Spitfire engines)..... "For all models it is... MORE


Naturally, Mike.. That's why we have "caution" (yellow) and "warning" (red) lights in the cockpit. Yor're supposed to be worried..."worried" means you're a normal, reasonably intelligent human being who percieves there's a problem which needs attention. BTW, when was the last time you changed the oil filter? 'Cause if you don't find anything wrong with the "sender" for that light, this is something which I would pretty much do automatically as the next step, whether the filter was new or not. You just never know when you are going to get a "bum" part. And what weight oil are... MORE


Mike... That light is "electric"?....check it out.... maybe that oil pressure problem is an "indication" problem? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32505... MORE


Fellow spridgeteers, I recently purchased a new chrome valve cover and gasket for my 1500, but unable to install because the studs are too short. Has anyone any experience with replacing these with longer studs to accomodate the height? I need an extra .5-1". Any or all advice appreciated. Thanks, Pete "Pete Skalski" 32500... MORE


Shane, They are supposed to just go on the inlet valve stems. These are the only ones that the pistons are descending on when the valve is open, causing them to suck oil down the guides. On the exhaust valves this, in theory dosn't happen. However on mine it was burning too much oil until I fitted oil seals on the exhaust ones as well. Possibly because of wider tollerance using unleaded fuel valve guides, or maybe because of the cam I was using. Actually I suspect oil was being drawn down the stem and then burning directly in... MORE


Try four on the intakes and see if this corrects your issue. If not, add the other 4. It's usually the intakes that draw oil down the stem due to the vacuum present in the the intake runners. My two cents worth, John "mg_john2" 32487... MORE


Sounds like time for a new jewel and pivot. Speedo shop time! Even oil in a speedo head has a hard time lasting for 40 years!! Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 32492... MORE


Please some one tell me I'm not crazy: on a 79 Midget, the indicator lights from top to bottom are Yellow, for oil pressure, red for charging/discharging, and blue for high beams. Right? Some one on here said something the other day which made me question that, and now I'm doubting my self. Thanks, George "chuibuddy" 32485... MORE


I have a 1972 Midget with correct motor. I am working through an issue and I want to replace my valve seals. It looks to me from all of the parts catalogs that on the 1275 there was only a valve seal on the intake valves, and not on the exhaust valves... am I correct in this? Shane "seaaingrayanderson" 32484... MORE


Well, I thought I had a local buyer for my Sprite, but it seems to not have worked out. I thought I would check the list and see if I can get an opinion on what it might be worth. Itsa: 1969 Sprite(clear Texas title says 1964, but a typo must have occurred way back before I purchased it in New Mexico about 3 or 4 years ago) Number plate (beneath carbs) matches vin on title. You may recall: It's stuck in first gear. Crap!! Stuff I have done: Porsche 914 Seats Roll bar Tonneau cover adapted (lots of... MORE


In the process of removing the rear axle I've run into a bit of a frustration. It looks like it will be necessary to remove the backing plate for the brakes in order to remove the axle fastening for the quarter elliptical spring on my Mk 2 Sprite. After removing the brakes I am unable to turn the large nut holding the bearing in place. Working on the left side I know it will have to be turned clockwise but after flattening the locking washer I am still unable to budge it. Will it be necessary to buy a... MORE


Keep fiddling with the fulcrum pin. Either it's in too far or not far enough, or not aligned with the flat perfectly vertical. When you get it in correctly. the taper pin should slide into palce with no more tha a slight tap. "joe blxfstz" 32373... MORE