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I need help. Here's what happened. Began restoration about 10 years ago. Thought it would go faster than it did, so early on I had the engine done. It was built by Dave Tabor of Comptune, the guys who built all the SCCA champ 1275 motors. Anyway, I told Dave I wanted a 1967 street spec high compression engine. I know he used a factory crank and cam. I believe he used aftermarket pistons that he preferred with a compression of about 8.9 to 1. He used a factory non-emission head, redone to run unleaded. Job was completed many... MORE
anything's possible, but the hassle of using a FWD engine is probably too much :- you can't use the crank, as the Metro has a tail that the flywheel/clutch mounts on, where the Spridget has a flange; the rear main bearing/oil 'seal' area is quite a bit different too (it can be modified to suit, given suitable engineering facilities) the front and rear engine plates are different; I *think* the oil pickup is different because of the Transmission-In-Sump, but I wouldn't swear to this; So basically, there's loads of detail differences that make it a tricky swap and you'd... MORE
When I first had my car a few years ago (!) I noticed that water collected in the bottom of the doors and so I drill a few small holes at the points where water seemed to remain. It may be just coincidence, but I am still using the original door frames and skins, with only surface rust top deal with. (not the easiest inside a door frame, but it can be done!) Oh, I think some Dinitrol fluid might have helped as well. :-) Of course, the holes totally ruin the originality, but on this one, I don't... MORE
Don, Hope it's not rude to interrupt. I have exactly the same situation in my Midge and have decided on a new clutch/throwout assembly. The clutch works fine under moderate acceleration but whenever I put my foot into it is slips badly in any gear. It also seems to get worse the longer I have the car out. Without taking the car apart I have narrowed it to two possiblities. Oil leakage or old springs. I used the original clutch from my $500 dollar buy when I installed the engine. I am reliably informed that with age they will... MORE
Cap'n Been there, done that. The bottom section contains only a gauze type filter about 1/32" (+/-)thick. The upper section contains some weight but when I shake it there isn't any discernible movement as I would expect from a loose charcoal particle filter. At the bottom end (now open) of the upper section of the canister is what appears to be a perforated plate sitting on three radial plastic bars. These bars meet in the middle to form three open triangle sections; I assume to allow vapor, air, fluid to pass out thru the down tube. There may also... MORE
Yep..you got it all, and you got it right. However....while I personally like running well vented, there is nothing wrong with the simple pre-'68 intake manifold mounted, diaphragm equipped PCV valve fed from the timing case cover. This is a good KISS (keep-it-simple- stupid) PCV system teamed with the filtered oil filler cap. There is virtually no maintenance to this system besides renewing the cap once a year and the rubber diaphragm when it becomes porous (the engine begins smoking out the exhaust and using oil like crazy when this occurs...so you'll know "when"!:). If you have decided to... MORE
I take it you have the bracket (AHA8779) made out of a strip of steel folded into a sort of triangle? The bottom of it bolts to the inner wing and the top bolts to the 'rain gutter' edge of the wing. The cooler hoses run just above the fresh air intake trunking (see pic in files called "bracket for oil cooler hoses on car.jpg" ) it's one of those stupid yahoo locations, so posting a link may or may not work...... http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/midgetsprite/files/bracket for oil cooler hoses on car.jpg "David Jacobs" 27279... MORE
Hi all- Am finishing a ten year restoration of a 1973 Midget (US model). Has a factory oil cooler. Have properly (I hope) fitted the lines. I have a support bracket for the lines that I know was on the car. I cannot figure out how the bracket attaches to the car. I know how the bracket attaches to the lines. HELP!!!!! Thanks.......Paul "dfwip" 27278... MORE
Jim... OK...you want to run "vented" instead of "closed loop" but wish to retain the charcoal cannister and use it as a catch can either in it's present position or possibly elsewhere in the engine compartment. Fine...but you MUST promise to read the last paragraph! :) I am strictly a layman in the post '67 emissions systems which were strapped to our engines as "add on" devici, providing for a "closed loop" system to ensure crankcase/fuel tank vapor evacuation into the combustion process. Ripped it out myself, and never used one. I took a look at it under the... MORE
Max... Tighten down the bumpers or wherever you have the lights mounted to the extent possible. Using old rubber tubing or a material of that nature, fabricate a rubber mounting gasket (shock absorber so to speak) and there you go! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27257... MORE
Duncan... First choice: pick up the later timing case cover and utilize the intended stock simple PCV system. It works very well. You see, the Series A motor has a scroll (oil thrower) affair back by the main bearing which depends upon tight metal (block) clearances for "oil tightness". The motor does not have a "regular" rear main oil seal, Duncan. Without the stock PCV system, these motors have a real tendency to leak oil out of this area, most especially as they build miles on the crankshaft. The stock PCV system will draw out crankcase PRESSURE along with... MORE
Jim I'm 99.9% sure the oil seal lipped side does indeed face the bearing, in other words it goes in flat side first. Yeah, front suspension can be a nightmare to take apart. Penetrating fluid all over everything at least a day before hand, is a must. Don't forget heat can be very useful as well. Just shout if you get really stuckamundo! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27176... MORE
Bob, Thanks for your reply. Maby my question was not clear enough. There is no fuel leaking in the engine compartment. It is either vaporizing in the float bowls or draining down inside the intake manifold. I took one carb apart last night and i suspect it is the two O-rings that seal the main jet. Part # 16 on the moss website. If these are old and hard fuel will have to leak by. I would think that anyone using an electric fuel pump with this style of carby could have this problem and not even know it.... MORE
Hi, Duncan.... The "open" port on the normal stock intake manifold on the '67 is for the rubber diaphragm equipped PCV valve which is fed via a rubber hose from the "flame arrester" (can) fabricated into the timing chain cover at the front of the motor. The "intake air" for crankcase gases drawn out from the crankcase into the intake manifold via the PCV valve is the plastic "filtered" oil cap containing a "graduated orifice" (designed "hole" of a specific diameter. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27173... MORE
Mine is stamped from the top...it's a "replacement" I beat on it, smeared it with oil, stepped on and beat on it some more with a BFH... it now looks genuinely original...:) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27165... MORE
Guys... Isn't there an anti-drainback valve in the 948's mechanical fuel pump? It's been 40 years for me so I've forgotten! :) But I think there may be one, Chris. And with no disrespect intended Chris, why would anyone run an engine with possible fuel leaks in the engine compartment? You don't EVER want to do this, man. Disaster doesn't always strike the "other guy"! :) I mean if you look just below the carbs, you'll find the exhaust system!! Speaking of which.... Invest in a portable FIREX as well that you can affix to, and carry around in... MORE
It seems to me that having a fuel leak is asking for an engine compartment fire. Why put in an electric fuel pump to fill up fuel bowls that can't hold what they already have in them? Fix those leaks then look into the electric pump. Nelson 62 Mk 2 Sprite "Nelson Wittstock" 27125... MORE
Ed If you read one of my earlier posts regarding the front hub smaller bearing not going all the way down to the spacer, I can now tell you why that was. When I started working on the second hub to fit the bearings and oil seals, I took a look down the hub, to see how far down the smaller bearing had to go. Yep you guessed it (well I hope you did ; ) the outer 'RACE' of the smaller bearing was still down there! Doh! That's why on the other hub the smaller bearing wasn't going... MORE
Yep, finally got the car moving on all 4 wheels! Admittedly I had to push it, but hey it moved! I finished off fitting the front suspension, got the hubs on and went down to the local petrol station to pump up the tires, got them on, lowered it off it's axle stands and pushed it out of the garage - moving on all four wheels for the first time in oooh 15 years at least! So yeah, it was an exciting moment for sure; you'll have to excuse my exhuberance, but I've waited a very long time for... MORE
Frank has left the building.......... ...... leaving in his wake welded up patch panels, grinded, sanded, spot-primed, de-rusted 71 body. That's only because we didn't get here until 8AM, I didn't have any filler, and we ate lunch, and we talked about water pumps repairs, cleaned some of the weekend wreckage, went for a tool buying trip, and he had to leave by 2PM. Whew. And the shirts DO look great. Peter C "Peter C." 27108... MORE
Jim OK, I think I'm getting confused between front and rear hubs, because I'm doing the front ones now! I the oil seal goes in as far as it'll go, then press the bearing in using the old one as a drift. Pack it with grease, then put the 'o' ring into its little groove with grease and then the paper gasket. Does that sound right? From what I remember, the oil seal does go in as far as it will go, there is a lip that it rests against on the 'halfshaft' side of the hub. When the... MORE
Jim I've just recently fitted new bearings and seals to my rear hubs, but I'm not sure I fully understand the first part of your question to answer it. As far as I can remember, the big bearing goes into the rear of the hub (I used the old one against the new one and pressed it home in a vice) then the oil seal goes in open side first, the flat side of the seal is always outermost. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27080... MORE
Since we're on the subject of hubs, bearings and seals I have a question. When I removed the rear hubs on my 73 Midget I found the seals directly against the back of the bearings. There appears to be a seat for the seal at the back (inside) of the hub just as there is a seat for the bearing in the front(outside). Should the seal be directly behind and touching the bearing or should it be seated at the back of the hub leaving a space between the two? Also, each hub had the seal facing in different... MORE
Well, I just couldn't stand no being in debt. I had come into a small (and I mean small) amount of cash recently due to the sell of a piece of property in a ghetto. I spent a weekend recently at Elizabeth and Fisher Jones place in the hill country of Texas (take your hat off when you say that). I was there to persue Bambi and his kin with my cousin and grandson. We took a nice buck, but that's another story. Those of you who have had the pleasure of seeing the Jones' place will agree (unless... MORE
It was time to put the new bearings and oil seal into the front hubs, so I got them out of the wrapping they were in, gave them a final clean with a cloth to get any little bits of dirt out ready for the new seals. I went and got the brand new bearings from the unopened packet, got them out opened them up, and trial fitted the largest bearing into the back of the hub. It wouldn't fit! It was like way too wide in diameter to fit in there! I was standing there thinking how can... MORE
