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I have 2 main mechanical issues I will need to fix before doing any real driving. (I have many other non-mechanical issues, some even just mental). 1. Brake pedal needs "pumped" to build up pressure. Once I pump it a few times I can hold it down and it stays firmly (doesn't go all the way to the floor no matter how hard I push). Before I pump it, it goes all the way to the floor. When I let off the brakes, and drive for a bit, I need to go through the whole process again. I don't... MORE
Neighbors must think me crazy . . . My 73 has the notorious sticking fuel pump contacts. Usually it works but after about a week of sitting it acts up. I keep my knock off hammer behind the seat . . . if I do not hear the fuel pump start clicking when I turn on the key I reach back behind me, take the big lead knock off hammer and hit the back wheel arch behind the passenger seat. It gets the message and starts clicking. Works every time.... Beats getting out, finding a broom handle and sticking... MORE
I have a 73, and a 74. They had only sat for about a year each, however I did have a 62 that the previous owner had run since 1987 and then only for a couple of months, almost 22 years total except for that short period . . . There are things you can count on fixing and replacing when they sit that long . On the 73 I disconnected the fuel line from the float bowls, stuck it in a jar and turned on the key to activate the fuel pump to see how the fuel was... MORE
Jens I would think most plating companies would do the 'clear zinc and yellow passivation' as the process is similar for chrome plating apart from the final process and polishing. It's worth checking with whoever you intend to do your chrome playing with. It's best to group the items up and get them done in a batch rather than trying to get individual pieces done - it's cheaper that way. I didn't sand blast any of mine, but cleaned them thoroughly in white spirit/turps/kerosene several times to get rid of any oil or grease that was in there. I... MORE
Bradster writes..."..with sufficient lubrication" Forget it. Cat woke up! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30054... MORE
Jim, - I agree with Nigel, I would not have called those the Fulcrum Pins, but then I am also in the UK. But, now we agree what we are talking about.... The pin part itself is shouldered so that you cannot over compress the rubber bushes by overtightening. The nut needs to be tightened until the large washers contact that pin shoulder. The nyloc nuts are a good idea so that they don't work loose. The large washers also have a step in the outer edge which must fit snugly into the hole in the chassis brackets, otherwise... MORE
Jim Not with you on this one. The fulcrum pin is the threaded pin that screws into the narrow end of the A frame (Wishbone) through the stubaxle kingpin. There is no nut holding it in place, and no there isn't a torque limit for it. Do you mean the inner wishbone pivot pin? This holds the arms of the A frame (wishbone) to the car and these do have a nyloc nut, but I'm not sure if there is a torque setting for them, I didn't torque them up on mine. Otherwise I'm at a loss to understand... MORE
Jim Don't really know what you mean by notches?? but the hollow part of each piston should face out, ie. against the back of the pads. I just retighten about the same as it took to get them loose. I can't remember but pretty snug. You should replace the small fluid seals when doing this. I hope this is of some help. Mike mk2sprite@... 29941... MORE
I'm standing over my coffee pot staring, as if that will speed it up, real men do that. On top the pot is a knob and two symbols, a dark cup and an white cup. The function I had read is to adjust for weaker or stronger coffee. Turn the knob indicator to the dark cup and all the hot water flows onto the coffee grounds, turn it to the white cup and part of the water is diverted to the edge of the plastic filter holder where a special conduit channels it past the coffee grounds and directly... MORE
Margaret (and others) I am pretty sure that this alsao has something to do with wear in the pivot points and hinges of the frame. This is why I think this... When you operate the clamps on the header rail it has the effect of tilting the front hood rail backwards so that it contacts the metal of the header rail rather than sitting squarely on top of the rubber seal. This is aggrivated by overtight hood fabric, but more significantly by worn pivot points, particularly in the short metal arms that screw to the header rail. I am... MORE
From: Guy Weller [mailto: Guy.Weller@... ] Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 3:51 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] Hood rubbers/seals No, because what is happening is that the clamps pull the header rail down onto the top of the screen at the wrong angle, - sort of tilted backwards. One symptom of this is the tendancy for the little lug of the clamp to try and jump to the wrong (front) side of the narrow upstand on the rear edge of the screen top rail. Adjusting the wear out of the pivot points means that the header rail is... MORE
Hi, My gas pedal often sticks (does not return all the way back). I can usually fix it by tapping it a bit but sometimes I have to quickly hook it with my shoe to get the revs back down to idle speed. I have determined that this problem is caused by corrosion on the floor hinge rather than a problem with the throttle springs, cable or the bent rod between the cable and the pedal. I have improved the pedal's action somewhat by applying oil and wd40 to the hinge and by excersizing the pedal to try and... MORE
Sure, Nigel... My mech is getting $80hr (going rate for this area) while dealers are getting even more. Good thing he and I have known each other for over 30 years! :) Of course, basic power cost increased 400-500% back in early 70's as oil went "fair trade" (OPEC, etc.) which sorta kicked off global inflation to that extent! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 29856... MORE
Bob- I agree with all you say. But..... It IS leaking now, even if only a little. The engine is out. Why not fix it so it won't leak at all? At least that is my thought. Am I assuming the aftermarket seals are better than they actually are? I have a friend who is selling me the MiniMania kit for a very good price. Would really like to know if it is any good, or am I going to make a tolerable situation bad? Riverside kit only works with their adaptor plate. I am using Paul A's 5... MORE
Paul... No, no. Don't misunderstand. My ONLY point here is that you might want to educate yourself to the extent possible by speaking to more of an expert in these matters before you make a decision as we're talking a matter of "gray" here. The end decision is of course your's which is as it should be, as we are talking your time, talents, money and YOUR car! :) This is exactly why you should speak to Paul A about this before you go further. There may be more to this than initially meets the eye (which would not... MORE
Engine is out and I'm waiting on the 5 speed kit. Noticed a bit of seepage around rear of crank. Not bad at all. Just a little. Thinking this might me a good time to install a rear seal. Some have told me that if the seepage is small, DON'T TOUCH IT! Others have said to ALWAYS install a rear seal. What do y'all think? What seal kit should I use if I install one? Any tricks or things to watch??? Thanks much. Paul '73 RWA (almost 5 speed) "dfwip" 29616... MORE
I purchased from Moss2 adaptor #235-875. In taking off the old canister, I found the adapter sits real close to the generator. the old canistor mounted on a small mount that in turn attaches to the engine block. the sole purpose of this appears to be to raise the oem canistor oil filter high enough to clear the frame that runs below that side of the engine. if I remove the threaded studs that this mount attaches to the engine block, can I mount the adaptor directly to the engine block with the supplied allen head studs? I think... MORE
It is kind of sad to see someone out of ignorance paying exorbitant prices for something readily available in their local hardware store... Case in point. On ebay at the moment are a set of four plugs to fill the head of a Midget after removing the Air Pump and Rail. There are 5 bids and the current price is at $20.50. The four plugs are: Standard 1/4" brass flare plugs available at Orchard Supply or any ACE hardware store for less than 50 cents each. I have used them on my 74 when I removed the smog air... MORE
Brad, You hurt my car's feelings. Now he leaks oil! Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 630-841-6077 robbiesg@... 29469... MORE
Jim- Do not take my comments as anything other than a personal opinion based on my research. I did talk with a couple people who have converted their Rivergate set-up to "all Datsun" components, but also contacted several who were delighted with the set-up, as is. EVERYONE with the Rivergate was pleased. I honestly don't think you can go wrong with either one. I actually like Rivergates crank seal the best, and may well have gone the Rivergate route if delivery was not an issue. With respect to the Rivergate clutch setup, if you look at a Midget pressure... MORE
I replaced my own windshield....successfully. Tried to get someone local to do it, and none of the glass places would touch the job. With a little planning, it really is an "at home" job. My brother and I did it while watching the Browns lose (again). First, order all new screws....you'll need them. Have some sharp drill bits and easy outs....you'll need them. After you get the old frame apart, spend some quality time polishing it....it'll need it. Put a new seal around the new glass and lightly soap the exterior edge of the seal. Have your helper pull... MORE
Wes, there should be a stop pin (part number AHA 7703) that one of the mechanism arms butts against; in addition, originally there was a sort of 'U' shaped strip of steel (part number AHA 7431) that fit in the bottom of the door. I think it had felt or foam stuck to it, so it could absorb moisture to encourage rusting better! Regards David "David Jacobs" 29404... MORE
Remind me never to take these apart again, what a job getting the rev counter bezel back again. The inner disk just would not drop in, it had sprung out never to go back. Two G clamps and a small hammer persuaded it to reseat. Found a selection of gasket material by the yard to make all new seals. Have tried 12 v 5 watt side light bulbs, much improved but they are bayonet connectors not MES so am working on adaptor. First choice is to dismantle 5 w bulb and unsolder it to give a glass envelope with... MORE
Tim I am not that familiar with the 1500 cars but I expect the engine will have to come out to replace the clutch and so this is going to cost 300 in most garages, however if money is tight and the engine was running OK before the gasket blew why not just get that fixed (maybe 150 or so). The problem with second hand engines is that they may be no better than the one you have and you are not going to know without removing the head and checking the bores, so it will still cost you... MORE
Tim, I take it that you don't wish to do the work yourself? Repairs to a 1500 engine are really quite straightforward and its a really great way to learn about all aspects of the engine. An expert like Frank will take an engine and gearbox out in about an hour, I take a little longer, more like 1hour 15 minutes. If your engine was running OK before the head gasket blew then there is no need to take the engine out although obviously the clutch will. If you feel that these things are better left to the garage,... MORE
