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Ed, All kidding aside, I'm not even sure yet that I want to replace the mechanical pump with an electric. I am going to the twin SU setup but am disgusted at losing a mechanical pump so quickly. Your opinions greatly appreciated. If electric is the way, part numbers would be great. Even after working on the little best for 5 years most of the time I'm in unfamiliar territory. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free robbiesg@... 32020... MORE
Dear Listers, After my mechanical fuel pump failed at 1500 miles I am entertaining the idea of going electric. The enigine is out so.........! Found a Walbro fixed electric pump 2.5 to 4.5 lbs. pressure delivery on JC Whitney. Should I make the swithch? Is the Walbro a reasoable unit? Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free robbiesg@... 32012... MORE
"Surely they should last....." Depends upon use over time. As we know, when they sit (especially "unprotected"), certain items not only continue to wear, they wear at an accelerated rate due to lack of lubrication along with "water within" (condensation, etc.). My car sat outside (but under a cover) a good part of last winter which in these parts, was uncharacteristically very cold. But the vehicle was started, thoroughly warmed and "moved" (shocks, brakes, etc.) at least once a week. Also, the exhaust outlet was kept covered while the car "sat". First thing we did before taking it out... MORE
Facet is now owned by Purolator. Quaker State is now owned by Pennzoil. Fram builds all the Pennzoil oil filters. The list goes on!!! Paul a Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] E-bay fuel pump This same low pressure pump is marketed by Purolator under part # 12S or PRO 12S Chris PilotRob@... writes: "Paul Asgeirsson" 31995... MORE
Hi Guy, I suspect that you have some calipers that are ready for a rebuild. These pistons don't retract as the new cars do, but merely relax. If the dust seals are stiff and totally dried out it will inhibit the relaxing of the pads from the rotors. I rebuild a lot of these calipers and sometimes it's almost impossible to get out the pistons because there's 40 years of crud and dried up rubber involved. Another possibility on the calipers is the m/cyl is holding too much pressure on the system with it's internal residual valve. A suggestion... MORE
These are strictly for reduced rolling resistance, not necessarily for improved performance, as certain things would increase your 'lap time' through worse handling. Fit narrow (standard 145) tyres and pump them up as hard as the highest recommended pressure; use the lowest viscosity oils in the transmission (consider ATF for the gearbox?); check/adjust the tracking to as close to zero as you can get it, and check all four wheels' alignment; remove any extra un-necessary weight. I also do the 'pushing out of the garage before starting' routine, but I can manage it by sitting in the car with... MORE
Alan, Can't help with a 76 but my official workshop manual gives the curb weight of a 1975 (Gas and all fluids, no driver) at 1,859 lbs. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free robbiesg@... 31955... MORE
Damien, Unless you are planning on replacing the needle roller bearings in the Hardy Spicer joints, I would not attempt too dismantle them as it will be virtually impossible to do so without damaging the bearing caps or grease seals. Clean the UJs in situ, taking care not to de-grease the bearings, and then paint the tubular part of the propshaft only. Guy "Guy Weller" 31950... MORE
Some of you may remember a mail i wrote a few days agoo were i told you my float bowls went almost empty. Well i think i have found the cause of this problem as well. I changed the petrol line from the tank yesterday and when removing the old one that had a joint before the pump (mechanical) with a short piece of rubber tubing the hose clip on one end was loose and the actual rubber tubing was loose as well. I could just pull it off by hand easily. I recon the pump must have sucked... MORE
Sounds like either a) more suction on the front carb - in which case you need to balance the carbs, adjusting the throttle stop screws of each whilst litening to the induction hiss from each one in turn - or using one of the many crb ballancer kits available or b) You have not got the jets adjusted to the same point on both carbs, allowing the front one to pull more fuel through. The start point is both jets flush with the bridge ( see "cryptic manual" thread ), and then lower both jets by the same amount... MORE
Does anyone know of a better valve cover gasket available than the tradional cork ones? I've heard of reusable silicon ones available for Triumphs. Curt "cfisher1a" 31923... MORE
Change back and see if it makes any difference. I would also change the filter also. |Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 31933... MORE
BTW... www.LBCarCo.com also carries a "reasonably priced" nifty little round LP electric fuel pump as well. They've advertised and carried this pump for a long time so while I've no personal experience with it, it must be decently reliable and dependable or it would have disappeared from Jeff's stocks a long time ago, methinks. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31903... MORE
Is that the SU pump number? Nelson "Nelson Wittstock" 31886... MORE
Dear Listers, All this fuel pump talk has got me indecisive. Had to have the car towed home after the mechanical pump crapped out with under 1500 miles on it. I now have the motor out for clutch replacement and vacillating between buying a new mechanical or getting a $40 Warburg electronic and fitting that. Besides the usual concerns I'm also installing twin SU's to replace the ace Stromberg. The larget twin fuel bowls are a concern or am I being iggerant? Advice and comments are kindly solicited Rob C 75 Midget being redone right..... I hope. Webfoot Leisure.com... MORE
I hadn't noticed the high Buy it Now price but that does make it less attractive. From what I understand now, the SU electronic pump is the best way to go. Buying it from LBC I will get the discount on the Moss price bringing it down to $107.06. Also looked at the possibility of rebuilding the mechanical pump and can't figure out why the rebuild kit costs more than a new pump. Guess they don't want to sell the kits. Thanks guys, Nelson 62 Sprite still needing many $ "Nelson Wittstock" 31870... MORE
Bob... Larger bowls are of no concern. Pump doesn't care unless the engine is highly tuned and than one can use a higher pressure (output) with a pressure reg. I find the low pressure (LP) Facet (4psi+-) mounted in the rear in place of the SU... works fine without a pressure regulator on SU's. With my PO'd "Vizardized" 1340 (90HP at the rear wheels) I used the HP Facet (6-8psi) with a pressure reg. set to 2.5psi for a 45DCOE. This engine went to 7k and was mostly used between 3500-4000rpm on the highway. It was also capable of... MORE
Hell you can get a Holley red electronic pump and regulator for that much (I did). And parts are available at any "speed shop". The red pump runs at 7psi and flows 96 gph. It sound different but works great. Tad 74 RWA Midget 69 MGC GT "Richard Rivenbark" 31883... MORE
Purolator pump number. Try Schucks, they have them. Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 31890... MORE
Ed in ND states..."...while this is obviously not concours..." Couldn't agree more with you, Ed. I personally have used Facet low pressure solid state pumps for years. While they now go for about $70=$80 a pop, I get them for cost, inclusive of the metal filter fit to the inlet side between tank and pump. I replace these ("hard time" preventive maint.) once every three years whether they need it or not instead of waiting for them to wear out and suddenly "fail" (which all electric pumps do in time, brand notwithstanding). The inlet filters I replace annually. Cap'n.... MORE
Typically the low pressure pump is used with the SU's. It's range is 1.5 to 4 psi. Pump number is PRO #42S. Has blue decal on the pump. Usually no pressure regulator is needed. Best, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 31885... MORE
I used one for a while instead of a standard SU electric pump on my 1275. It worked fine and I can't remember why I changed back, but it was probably something to do with not being able to dismantle the electronic one if ever anything was to go wrong. Incidentally, the Mechspec 'Buy It Now' price of U$70 + 18 shipping seems a bit steep to me - even Mo$$ list a pump for the equivalent of $80. David "David Jacobs" 31863... MORE
Solid state (electronic) SU Fuel Pump from Moss...US$119.95 in either pos or neg ground. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31868... MORE
Well, Jens...lot of variables here including outside air temp and the clearances to which the engine was built. Mineral oils are where it's at for break- in, Jens. Synthetics (or partial synthetic) should not be used as they reduce rather than promote, fricition "Breaking in" means friction between parts and you'll get a lot LESS of this with the more "slippery" synthetic and partial synthetics. Mineral oils aren't as slippery so friction would he higher, thus accelerating the break-in process. Most likely, since you've switched to mineral oil, the break-in process is actually continuing and not really over, miles... MORE
Hi Nelson, I have some AC rebuild kits for the mechanical pump. NOS, but who knows how fresh and good they are. Contact me off list if you're interested Another way of going and this is something my Morris friends do but for another reason. The Morris pump is mounted on the firewall in full view of anyone wanting to see it. Some want to have a pristine, all original looking engine bay, but prefer some reliability. So they mount an electronic Facet/Purolator fuel pump near the fuel tank and leave the old pump in the engine compartment with... MORE
