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I remember these well. They recommended that you always use the stiffest TP you could find. Then as time went on the TP Mfgs. changed the binders in the TP and they started to disintegrate in the filter cartridge. Ahhh! The price of progress in the totally disposal field of TP!! Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 32281... MORE
"We can all agree...." Yes we can, Jens...most of us. There are some (few?) who think "oil is oil" and this is true...unless you are talking the "additive packages" that brand name mfgrs. add to the basic stock intended specifically for automotive use. Then the "oil is oil" idea goes right out the window! :):) Paul A (and I) use(d) Fram's for many, many moons with no problems so it is quite possible that conscientious scheduled oil (and filter) changes are more "key" in this than alleged quality of filter. I don't know but certainly, "better" is "better" by... MORE
Funny Paul, 'cause I use to use Fram oil filters as well. And I never had a problem with them as far as I know. But any oil filter article I've read (about 7-8 over the recent years I guess) rates them below most others in terms of quality build and filtering ability over time. So I switched over to Hastings (probably really built by Fram, right??!:):) Wonder if there are differences in the one's built "today" vs the one's built "yesterday"? Dunno. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32240... MORE
Correcto, Jens... I've never seen a kind word about Fram oil filters on any oil and oil filter articles I've read thus far...as you say, quite the opposite. well...let's give Fram a chance to reply to your email and see what they have to say. Understand your comments re: the bypass valve and that you are waiting for a replacement filter for your "Marina" type. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32230... MORE
Hi Cap'n and Jens, I guess I've got to be a lone noise in the wind here. I've always used Fram or Pennzoil filters for as long as I can remember. I've got a 1275 in my van that has almost 300,000 miles on it since a major rebuild. Did 105,000 mile on a quickie rebuild before that, on an engine that came out of a burned MG Midget wreck. Admittedly this engine is now pretty tired, but it still goes OK. I changed the oil and filter religiously at 5k miles, with nary a peep out of this... MORE
Jens... Thanx for the oil articles...still reading 'em. First page sort of missed the boat on synthetics multi-grades as opposed to mineral oil multi-grades. Polymers are "bad"....synthetics don't have or need 'em...so....I mean, obviously!! Don't know anything about oil filters but exactly what brand was the "no holes" filter you replaced. And how's the oil pressure holding up now with the new filter? Or, haven't you tried it yet? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32217... MORE
Hi Pete, Glad to know you are a satisfied with what I did for you. This is the only way to do it, (even if I didn't do it for you). There is no question that your MC is WAY better than even a new one. Joe tells me that many people send him BRAND NEW MC's to be sleeved. I can tell you from the many I have done that this is the only way to go. Also, as you found out by closer examination of what you had, amateurs trying to rebuild this particular MC do more... MORE
I'm having as problem removing the brass nut for the fuel line coming out of the tank. The tank is now off the car but the nut refuses to budge after several days of penetrating oil (Kroil) soaking. Part of the problem is that the nut is an odd size and none of my wrenches/spanners fit it properly. It is within a few thou of .600 inches and this does not match up to fractional sizes. 19/32 is as close as I can find and at that size I have only an open end wrench. I purchased my Sprite... MORE
My 2 cents worth. I don't think there is a exact reading, but I think 120-160 is normal. A compression test is more of a overall test and should be done twice. The first time, just pull the plugs and do it. The second time, squirt some oil in each cylinder and do the test again. The results will show condition and any problems, then there are leakdown test, etc. The readings should be within 10 percent for high and low. If there are any problems, like yours of cylinder 3 & 4 being low, the oil test will... MORE
Hi Nelson, The nut size is 5/16" Whitworth. If you have that wrench, slip it over from the fuel pump or cut the line to slip the wrench on. Because of the nut construction it's REAL easy to collapse it. If it's really corroded to the tank, likely an adjustable wrench will collapse the nut, so be careful. Later, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32190... MORE
G'day all Steve's tale of the welded tappet nut reminded me of this event. A few years ago I received a phone call from a Sprite owner who lived in the bush and couldn't find a local source of parts. He was after some rear wheel bearings and seals. No problem, we sent a set up to him. About a week later, he phoned to ask for a rear hub nut. He needed it as he had to cut the old one off, since the nut had been welded to the axle housing. me: "I bet it's the left... MORE
Jens... OK...you got part of the oil pressure problem but I too wonder how "secure" (air tight) that junction/line to the oil pressure gauge is in view of that loose coupling. Whatever... indicated pressure to the extent of anything under 55-60psi "hot" @ 3,000rpm is below mfg's tolerance, as is anything under 10psi "hot" at idle. And, most especially with 20/50 weight mineral oil. Keep at it, man..you're gettin' there! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32136... MORE
Jens, Maybe..... Condensation is collecting in your silencer (muffler). Only when you have run the engine for a little while does this warm up enough for the condensed water to evaporate and produce the white cloud. Still possible that it is originating from a fault with the head gasket, allowing water to leak through into the cylinders, but not causing an obvious leak to the outside or mixing of oil and water. Have you tried a compression test? Guy "Guy Weller" 32108... MORE
"tribilogist"??? Jeeze Alan, talk English for chrissake!! :):) I use fully synthetic "Oil Extreme" in my 1293 which used Valvoline 10/40 min. oil on initial break-in. No difference in water vapor upon initial start. Engines with cats produce very hot exhaust gases...what temp do cats operate at? Hot enough so you must be cautious when parking them over grassy areas? Really hot!! Otherwise, how are you this morning? (Err, you're mid-afternoon!:). Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32112... MORE
"Maybe condensation...." Absolutely!! As previously mentioned... a normal part of start up from cold in the morning, most definitely with a car left outside overnight, and most definitely in cool, damp weather. Problem is, I'm "over here", Guy Weller is "over there" and Jens is somewhere else! So we can't see what Jens is looking at under these circumstances in terms of "extent". Is it normal, or "abe normal" (courtesy, "Young Frankenstein":) It sounds abnormal considering it happens every morning to a great extent, whether the ambient air is "dry" or "wet". The engine warms up after a couple... MORE
"I think it's time for a thorough check-up here" Good for you, Jens. Exactly right my friend. There is something called a "chain" (of events) which leads sailors/boats & pilots/airplanes, drivers/cars to disaster. Wise men "move" on the "second event", drop back and take an objective "look" and go to Plan B when Plan A starts going to hell for whatever reasons. You have to be aware of a "chain" developing so you can "change the plan" to break that "chain" and "avoid" a major problem. Event #1... While a PITA, the not fully sealing head gasket can be... MORE
There is another possibility - do you have a brake servo fitted? With some types, if this is faulty, it's possible to suck brake fluid into the inlet manifold - I think that can burn grey/white. David "David Jacobs" 32096... MORE
Well... I'll tell you Jens. It sounds like the head gasket hasn't taken completely. And obviously, you have a coolant leak in engine compartment in any event. This must be found and fixed. It may be leaking from between the head and block (which you already expect) when the cooling system is fully pressurized, further indicating head gasket sealing problems. Sounds to me that once you warm it up, the head gasket seals more fully as parts swell due to heat. So the whitish/gray smoke disappears accordingly. Head Gasket: I don't think it's fully taken. Nothing to lose by... MORE
Hey all. Yes, it's Graziano. Frankenstein@... is my "dummy" address for yahoo groups. Please respond directly as I'm on the digest. Midget 1500 with twin HS4s, 285 cam, .30 over, head work, 13 row oil cooler, and headers.. As I mentioned a while back, I'm having trouble with the car getting hot here in Tx, which is causing vapor lock. I'm re-installing the original 3 row staggered radiator, and standard water pump with an electric fan. 1) should I wire the fan straight to the ignition so that it runs when the key is in the "on" position whether... MORE
Blackish/Grey you say? Well ALLRIGHTY THEN, Jens...it's not oil!! :):) Oil is bluish in color and "stays" in the air. and....the exhaust definitely smells of burning oil (and not unburnt gasoline). Whitish/grey (or gray) is water which is a byproduct of combustion and along with condensation within the exhaust system is produced most abundantly when a "cold" motor (overnight sit, fr'instance) is initially fired up, most definitely on those cool, humid mornings when it tends to stay in the air rather than more immediately evaporate as it does in "drier" air. Black is definitely unburnt gasoline which we get... MORE
You have worn valve guide on the inlets. You can replace the seals on the valve stems, but it will only make a marginal difference. The problem is that when the throttle is shut there is a vacuum in the inlet port area, created by the piston going down and nothing to go in. The inlet valves are open, but not the carb's butterflies. Hence vacuum. This pulls oil from the rocker area thru the valve guides and most of it burns on the back of the inlet valves. Once you're underway this diminishes and you are ok. Don't... MORE
Paul I saw your note on brake assembly lube. Which do you reccomend and why is it necessary? I had always been taught to use virgin brake fluid when working on M/C's and such. Thanks Mike mk2sprite@... 32030... MORE
Just as a matter of interest, guys, I've got a 1500 motor out of the car at the moment and have replaced big-ends/mains/thrusts and noticed that the cam lobe which operates the mechanical fuel pump is worn right away! The motor itself has only done about 40000 miles and someone had stuck a electric pump on it, probably believing it had failed. It actually works fine in your hand, but the cam doesn't operate it! Just a thought before making a decision. Mark. "spritelychap" 32026... MORE
Hang on. This is a daily used car. 30,000miles in 3 years since full rebuild ALL new brake parts at that time Regular maintenance - like every 2 weeks I grease the kingpins, top up dashpots etc.etc. Using silicon brake fluid and flush and replace that every year - although its due another change about now. I do a 80 mile daily round trip to work, in fast, heavy traffic conditions. My life depends on this car being in good condition. I started this "thread" to see what other experience might be out there. I don't actually think that... MORE
Hi Guy, Using silicon brake fluid!! Silicon has a higher swell factor on the rubber parts than does conventional brake fluid. This simply exacerbates an already stiff acting caliper. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32024... MORE
