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Well folks... As of tonight, the B-GT (67) is nearly ready for the first road test. I need to get a tire tube replaced and check the differential fluid before I drop it onto the ground and try for a short drive. The new parts I needed to order were... Clutch slave cylinder Clutch Slave Hose (2) Break Hoses Misc Spare nuts and bolts Gas Tank Repair stuff Trans Mounts (rubber) Engine Mounts New Clutch system (disk, plate and through-out) Tire Tube Thermostate gasket (not installed yet - extra) Falve Cover gasket A few extra rubber pieces. The hardest... MORE
The phone rang at 7:30 am Sunday morning "I'm stranded in Angles Camp, Jr. died," Jr. the name he gave the 63 Midget I sold him. "I just need a around town car." He said when he bought it. He had owned a Midget before and I was confidant I was not selling to an innocent in the ways of classic British cars. I had made clear that since I retrieved it from a carpentry work shop where it sat on blocks for twenty years and brought it back to life that I had not driven it over five... MORE
Hi, I've just spent the afternoon sitting in the engine bay of the 72 midget scraping all the PO applied black underseal type paint . a.. I can't get it all off by grinding or scraping , it just goes gooey and spreads around and clogs the flap wheel. b.. Any ideas for removal ?, Petrol, flamethrower (Brad?), or just keep scraping and sanding? c.. When I did get some of it off, I found some hard cream coloured putty* had also been applied to some seams before the original spray coat.(Damask ). This did chip off however. d..... MORE
Dummy Me!! :) The vented/filtered oil filler cap is also a "restrictor" in the manifold mounted PCV valve, Jim!! Sorry for my error! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23808... MORE
Jim.... "Thanks", yourself!! :):) You either don't have a maint. manual or are not reading it, I guess. Well, no matter. :) You cannot check effective operation of the manifold mounted PCV valve by taking it apart. It is tested on a running engine at idle... if it is working correctly, the idle will increase by around 200rpm when you remove the "vented/filtered" oil cap (which you are using in accordance with your manual, right?:) For with respect to the manifold mounted stock PCV valve....there are no other restrictors in this system...IT is THE restrictor! It is also diaphragm... MORE
Mike writes: "Maybe the beast is supposed to feel like a go kart going down the road" You got it...that's exactly right. But, not "wondering" down the road, assuming the surface is smooth. It should go exactly where YOU point it and NOT the other way 'round. It should never feel as though the "tail is wagging the dog". On rougher surfaces the car will "move" sideways in a controlled manner as it "skips" over rougher pavement but it should never "wonder" or feel "loose", despite the fact road shock may be transmitted to the steerng wheel. Any "wondering"... MORE
Can anyone give me the description of the restrictors that I think should be in the tube from the timing case to the PCV valve. I have just rebuilt my '68 1275 engine and it is sucking enough oil through the oil seperator to go through the engine. I tried a 1/8" restrictor and had much oil out the rear seal(screw). I then put a 5/16" inch restrictor closer to the PVC valve and it seems to do much better. I have found no information other than a reference to tube and restrictor in the Hayes manual. Thanks Jim... MORE
Uhm, I forgot the original question. :-) If your car doesn't have excessive bounce, then what was your concern? Does it drift excessively when hitting a bump in the curve? Is the front loose in all turns? Does it wander on staight and flat roads? Has the front end ever been rebuilt? Does your steering rack have play? Let's see if we can find another topic to "discuss". Maybe we should start another thread if you feel there is still something amiss in car's handling. Another thought: What if the PO put too heavy of an oil in the... MORE
Michael, The old bounce test is a pretty reliable indicator of shock function. Push the nose of the car down several times and if it rebounds more than one and a half times shocks probably need attention. Topping off the fronts is fairly straight forward. Remove the valve and add. I switched to tube front shocks as mine originals were shot and didn't respond to additional fluid. I/m very satisfied with the new set up. Set me back about $300 from Winners Circle in Cleveland. To my embarrassment I have never touched the rear shocks. They seem to be... MORE
I've got a '79 midget. It seems to ride a little rough. I was thinking that maybe the shocks need some fluid. So, I have a few questions: 1. Is there a quick & dirty test a guy can do that might indicate whether more fluid is needed or not? 2. Is it easy for a shade tree kind of guy with limited tools to add fluid to the shocks? 3. What about conversion to tube shock kits? Any feelings? One more question. My dash is split right at the windscreen support bracket. I am going to order a... MORE
A follow up on the steering wheel lock clicking. The lock plunger knocking back and forth in the slot on the steering shaft formed sharp ridges on the top edges of the slot which when the steering shaft turned wore down the softer aluminum housing enough that the steel plunger was left slightly above the level of the surround housing and it was catching momentarily in the steering column slot as the steering shaft turned. I removed the steering column and rather than drill out the break off bolts took my Dremal tool and used a small thin cut... MORE
I would suggest before you rush out to buy a new switch, disconnect the battery, spray plenty of WD 40 in it and work it back and forth repeatedly. Use plenty, enough to really flush it out. It's not that WD 40 is the best lube for a switch, but it won't hurt it and it will soften any old hardened oil and grime that may be causing it to stick. If it starts to work again flush it out again. You never know what previous owners have used to lube the switch if they did use oil it... MORE
The clutch problem sounds like you're losing pressure in the hydraulic system, try bleeding the system/replacing clutch fluid/checking Master/slave clutch cylinders are working correctly. The indicator lamp not flashing sounds either like a poor ground connection from flasher unit or faulty flasher unit - both fairly easy to fix. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 23701... MORE
Toyman sounds correct, but you may get by with only topping off the fluid for now. Be aware however, that the fluid does not evaporate and you will in the perhaps near future need a master cylinder and/or slave cylinder at least rebuilt or replaced. Been there, doing that now. Robert Houston Transervicios S.A. de C.V. 915-592-2082 rbhouston@... 23699... MORE
Show me a sprite/midget that doesn't have an oil leak !! "Beckers" 23611... MORE
Very rare bonnet built from 1961-1964 in Southern California one of only three known to be left, completely restored, all cracks fixed, new gel coat and painted red. This will fit all Sprites/Midgets (MKII+) with mods, or tilt forward replacement for bugeye. This bonnet was used for racing (have documents)and also comes with custom fabracated alum ducts for radiator and oil cooler. E-mail me for photos or check out my photos in the gallary. $1200.00 with documents including a signed letter from Sir Thomas Denner Contact: Mike Satterfield Email: michaelsatterfield@ hot mail.com Tel: 909-947-8099 Location: Ontario (Southern California) California... MORE
After stripping off the front end outer metal work and cleaning the engine compartment I discovered there is a crack in the transmission bell housing. The tab like area at the top of the clutch bell housing where the top two bolts are located has a horizontal crack below them.. It does not appear to be a major structural problem once the transmission bell housing is bolted on as all other areas and bolts are sound. It looks like an easy in place weld job. Is it possible to weld the aluminum housing material? Some PO strangeness as usual... MORE
to stop it engaging, you'll have to get the lock off the column - not an easy job - I've had to do it on 3 different cars :-( The easiest way is to get the column off the car completely and drill out the break-head bolts, though it's sometimes possible to use a sharp small centre-punch and unscrew the bolts by hitting the punch in the correct place. Once you've got the lock off, you can either mount it elsewhere so it doesn't engage with the column, weld a small plate over the slot in the column so... MORE
Nigel, I must admit I always have difficulty with finding products that our friends on the list in the States discuss and are so familiar with! Often wish they would explain the proper scientific chemical name rather than brand names like "Marvel Oil" etc. (Marvel in the UK is a dried milk substitute) Anyway, now I am doing it, referring to Jenolite!! Jenolite is an automotive strength Phosphoric Acid. The bottle I have here is a 1 litre bottle I bought in Halfords, manufactured by Bluecol Brands Ltd., Stewart Road, Kingsland Industrial Estate, Basingstoke RG24 0GX Tel 01256 474661... MORE
On my new 73 when I turn the wheel with the key on and steering lock supposedly disengaged I can hear and feel the steering wheel lock detents clicking and feel a slight catching as I turn the wheel as if the lock is not fully disengaged. Any thoughts as to what may be causing this. And what is the small chrome button just under the key slot for? Don "Don May" 23590... MORE
Nigel, What I know from reading and listening to others: The bare metal can be sealed by applying expoxy primer. Polyester filler / bondo can be applied on top of the expoxy primer! Since filler doesn't seal the metal, moisture CAN get through and makes your shiny metal rust again (even before you started spraying the top-coats...). Area's that are not completely rust free can be primered with some rust-stabilising primer / paint (corroless / owatrol) or phosphoric accid (ospho) before applying the epoxy primer. Advantage of this working order / method is that wet-sanding the subsequent surfacer /... MORE
On a '75 I would suspect the fuel pump diaphragm may have a tear in it. At higher speeds it would result in insufficient fuel supply to the carbs; fuel level would be low and would result in a weak fuel mixture. Take the top off the fuel pump and check the condition inside. Guy "Guy Weller" 23549... MORE
Rick... Gerard is of course, correct, unless you are choosing between running a mechanical or electrical "puller", in place of the mechanical? Mechanical fans are mounted as close to the radiator as possible for maximum flow effect. And if you do decide to "replace" the mechanical rather than "supplement" it with a "pusher", you might as well order a larger 4.5" (Cooper S) water pump pulley and install same while you are "in there". And maybe even replace the old cast iron water pump with a "county" deep-impeller alum. one...without a water "bypass" for even better cooling in summer... MORE
Mark Don't do it the gauge is easy to remove the dash is not. Just undo the knurled nut at the back of the clamp and pop it out, the oil pipe union can be unscrewed from the engine or the back of the gauge (once popped out) the water temperature sender connection if it is into the rad (as mine is on the 66) can be a bit of a pig to remove without damaging the sender cable but if you are renewing the gauge this will not matter. Best of luck Dave (65 & 66 Sprites in... MORE
to retain my amateur status, here goes: After jillions of mini engines, here I am building a standard motor. The end half-seals that fit the slots in the oil pan: How do they go? They don't look right to me. Thanks, David McCartney Captain Rapture 23443... MORE
