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Well, Dave.... The biggest/best change you can make is to bring up the compression ratio next time you have the head off, unless you're taking it apart for piston/ring replacement. Taking the head from 21cc down to 19cc should be good for just under 8.5-1 and were you to go to 8.8-1 pistons next time around, the combo would be good for between 9.0-9.3-1 or so. You could take the head down to 16.4cc but now you're down to min. thickness for the head (strength, cooling, head-gasket issues, etc.). Besides mechanical stuff, better breathing will help. Vizard outlines in... MORE
Hi Aaron, Leave off the lock tabs. Don't use them! They're so soft they tend to give a false reading to the torque/stretch value of the bolts. If you can read the "F" properly. (Not backwards!) on the washer when it's in place, you've got it right. Remember to center the front seal before tightening all the cover bolts. Do it by leaving the cover bolts loose, so the cover will move a bit, then put the front pulley in place. Tighten a couple or 3 bolts, take off the pulley and tighten the remaining bolts. Pa "Paul Asgeirsson"... MORE
Must be an a-sereis thing.. my 1500 engine had oil pressure the second I go t it turning over on the starter, after 16 years of non use. Speaking of wh ich there are some more recent pics of it in the photo gallery under 'Stewa rt's 1500' Stewart "Ford Prefect" 36470... MORE
Or use the best of both worlds...fill it with grease, plug the end, then hit it with a torch...This would go with the recent cannon thread, wouldn't it? This is a joke!!! Do not try this at home! I am a train professional and you are not. I refuse to held responsible for your action no matter what I have written. YMMV "Jim" 36436... MORE
Wow, graphics...cool! Looks just like mine - single flare. All I can say is if the fluid leaks out, air can leak in...I know, lots of help, isn't it? "Jim" 36434... MORE
1. skip vice, it draws the heat out. Use a cinder block, or something like it to just set it on and heat. Acylene/MAPP gas & Oxy also works well and is hotter. We are talking a large chunk of metal and small rubber seals. 2. or hotter. 3. Or large pliers to pick up while hot and rap against a piece of wood on the ground to knock the piston out. Works great. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 36425... MORE
I own a 1971 mg midget. I am having diffuculty getting the clutch to work and I suspect that it is due to the fact that I joined two 1/4" double flare lines together with a union, a male to male adapter, a junction whatever you want to call it and this joint leaks. it was not a splice by any means. I did not cut the lines at any time. Clutch fluid can be seen and felt around the joint once the pedal is depressed no matter how well it is wiped off before hand. There is no... MORE
And before someone comes back with "How do you use the pressure relief to prime the pump when the relief drains to the sump?", you do need to use a tapered end funnel or hose end that fits into the relief seat...whoo, that was close. "Jim" 36411... MORE
I would suggest priming the pump through the pressure relief valve fitting. Doing so accomplishes two things at once - pump priming and checking that the valve isn't stuck. I concur with the rest of the suggested actions. "Jim" 36410... MORE
Jens... you mean you have no "indication" of oil pressure or no oil pressure?? Bearings making any rapping ("marbles") sound s?? Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 36407... MORE
Jens, I agree with all the above and I might add that if it was running ok with oil pressure and no rattling sounds when put sleep, it should be ok now. The first thing I would do is to make sure if there is pressure or not. I would pull the plugs and add a little squirt of oil to allow the engine to turn over faster, pull coil wire and crank engine for at least 20 to 40 seconds. If no press, pull open an oil line, or pressure valve cap, and crank to see if oil... MORE
Let's see...it's been a week or so since Drew picked up Rick's '73 Midget in Vegas and drove it to the Seattle area. He took four days and his girl friend...she must have a great deal of faith in him to attempt such an adventure. I did get a couple of cell phone calls from him asking about this and that...you know, things like, "Why did it just stop running out here in the middle of nowhere?"...the usual questions. The first time turned out to be bad points...so bad he couldn't get any kind of gap. He ended up... MORE
Nope, mine is still in the carport with carb/S.U. Fuel pump/regulator issues....:() Bob, Troutdale, OR now with wide white stripes... ....*.. <+ "Robert Webb" 36388... MORE
Spent yesterday squeek and rattle testing in the feild, My 1500 Midegt has now put another 2 miles on its odometer (first movement it has seen in 16 years).. Found a loose shock boly, a loose wheel bearing and that I had only started the fuel pipe union into the tank and not done it up.. once it was all done it drove reaonably well.. apart form one thing, the clutch is still not working properly.. If you hold it down in 1st, the car gradually creeps off, my suspision is it fluid is leaking past the seals back... MORE
I just happened to see this item advertised in the J. C. Whitney catalogue and it reminded me of a thread a few weeks ago. It is a magnet device that is attached to a big runner band that goes around your oil filter and it traps magnetic debris and is re useable. It is called a "Magna-Strap" part number SK7 10573 P. It sells for (you guessed it!) $19.95. Usual disclaimers, I have nothing to do with them etc. I just remember us talking abut finding magnets and JB welding them in plugs etc. Cheers, Bob in San... MORE
I think GTX is Castrol's motor oil. If you use Castrol brake fluid, it is LMA. Assuming your brake hydraulics have been rebuilt since the car left the factory, any brand DOT 3 will be fine. I have a friend who makes his living restoring british cars, and he always uses the cheapest DOT 3 he can buy. Never had a problem. "joe blxfstz" 36331... MORE
One foreign parts store told me Castrol Dot 3. Another foreign parts store said Castrol GTX(exceeds Dot 3). They said the GTX was a low moisture absorbtion (lma) fluid since the brake and clutch used natural rubber, not synthetic rubber like american cars. Question-will any dot 3 or dot 4 fluid do fine? Between the the castrol dot 3 or castrol gtx, which is preferred? Thanks! "jcjr7" 36329... MORE
These fittings are designed to seal against the pipe flare, not on the thread. Teflon tape will not likely fix the problem. Assuming you don't have a cross-threaded fitting, and that it is tight, then either the flare on the end of the pipe is damaged/malformed, or the nipple shape at the bottom of the hole is. I have fixed this problem with a small nylon washer. A hardward store or plumbing supply will have small nylon washers which will just drop into the hole. I think they're about 1/4" dia with a 3/32" hole. Drop one in and... MORE
Adam Do you mean the threads on the master cylinder or the threads on the brass connector. The threads on the connector actually looked like they weren't in great condition, but it never leaked there before, so I just screwed them back in. Do you know if the teflon tape will disintegrate over time from contact with the brake fluid?\ Bob rlirwn@... 36323... MORE
An experienced professional classic car restorer here in the UK advises owners to slightly under fill the diff with oil. He says these always leak and since there is nothing to oil lubricate in the axle tubes (the wheel bearings are lubricated with grease when fitted) there is no need to have oil present and a quarter of an inch les oil in the diff will not cause any harm. I have not tried it and take no responsibility if he is wrong but I have had problems with these seals even when new gaskets and O rings are... MORE
I got my resleeved master and clutch slave cylinders for my bugeye back from Whitepost and installed them. When I started to bleed the brakes more fluid came out around the brake line attachment point than came out of the bleeder at the rear brake. I didn't replace all the brake lines and would really prefer not to do that. When I installed the lines I just screwed them into the master cylinder (after cleaning them first with clean brake fluid and drying them). Is there something else that I should have done? Any ideas on what is causing... MORE
Greetings: I have a 1960 Bugeye Sprite which I recently purchased and am going through to make sure everything's up to snuff. Of note is that it has wire knockoff wheels. I took off the rear tires and brake drum to find that oil had leaked into the drums, contaminating the shoes and necessitating their replacement. While the hub has been off, I went ahead and replaced the bearing and I'm just about to the point of buttoning everything back up. I got a new o-ring and paper gasket for the hub as well. As I understand that the... MORE
Hi Cap'n. Just make your own. Get some of the round ceramic magnets that mosy hardware stores have for sale and with a dab of JB Weld on the plug, you've now got a wonderful magnetic plug! The dif plug has a flat surface, so only needs a drop or so on it and place the magnet on it. Let it harden a few hours and use it. The Brit trans plug has a deep recess, so takes just a little bit more JB, Then put the magnet in the recess, let it set and now you have a... MORE
Slightly less than 4 qts. with a filter change too. Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 36274... MORE
How much oil should I use in my 79' Midget? Thanks, Josh "fireburner03" 36256... MORE
