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Jens I spoke to Burlen this morning as I mentioned and they were very helpful. I've ordered up two spindle kits, two rubber washers and two new AN needles from them. For interest and reference for others going down this route in the future the cost of drilling out the spindle holes in the carb body and putting in inserts for the new spindle is about =A320 GBP + VAT. The new spindle kit (comes with butterfly screws and gaskets) was =A36.87 GBP + VAT and the AN needle =A36.33 + VAT. The moral behind this is to avoid... MORE
Trevor The needles are fixed not sprung, but I take your point on replacing them - I'm replacing them as a matter of course anyway. I think they're .090" ones, they came in a rebuid kit I bought ages ago, which indcludes all the gaskets, jets, needle and sets and disc/throttle spindle screws. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33170... MORE
G'day Hammondale The recommended torque is 45 ft lbs, then to the next split pin hole. The slight play is most likely due to the hub being worn. As a consequence, the outer bearing races are close together than they should be and the inner races aren't seating properly on the ramps in the inner races. Got that? So why aren't they seating when you tighten the nut? Because the cast iron spacer is holding them apart. The solution is to machine a little off the spacer. You can use a lathe if one is avaailable, or a linisher,... MORE
Colin, Thanx a ton! Or whatever the unit of weight is down there X the exchange rate. That torque setting is quite a bit higher than what I've cranked in I'm pretty sure. I didn't use a torque wrench, just went to the nearest split pin hole after it got somewhat tight. As far as my hubs go, they are new welded-in-back ones from MiniMania, although I can't say they are exactly correct wrt dimensions. (How would I know without a mic and the spex.) Your explanation makes sense. I will probably take the spacer to a shop with... MORE
Dave Would like to come. Can you send directions as I cannot find Ferry Meadows on my computer direction finder, I can find Peterborough. I then want to come back to my sister at Hertford. Will there be sales stands where I can buy king pin assemblies and other bits for my midget? Look out for teal blue 1972 Midget if it is not raining, if it is I will come in the Astra. Not much fun driving Midget with hood up in rain. Thanks Terry "terry.isherwood" 33152... MORE
Jim Thanks, I've emailed you off list regarding the screen pillar seals. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33142... MORE
Hi all, Is there a recommended torque setting for tightening down the nut on a front spindle to hold the disk brake rotor on? I have the old Brit Leyland ring-bound Spridget shop manual (circa 1970) and there's no torque spec in there. How tight is adequate, and how tight is too tight, i.e. shortening bearing life(?) or some other problem(?) Some background info for anyone patient enough to read - I've got the Frontline larger disc brakes installed, with all new wheel bearings, and yes, the bearing thrust orientations are correct. But seems like over the past year,... MORE
fluid is safer than compressed air, as it is not compressible, so when the piston does pop out, the liquid doesn't expand, unlike a gas. Pressure vessels are tested for leaks this way. David "David Jacobs" 33066... MORE
We just used a tourch to heat it enough to melt the seals, and then hit it against a log so the piston fell out. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 33068... MORE
A little less spectacular way to remove a piston is to fit a grease nipple into the brake line hole. Then fix a grease gun to it and pump on it until the piston is out. However, I do think the explosion method is entirely appropriate on most holidays when the local fire departments are on stand by alert anyway!! Give them something to do when the neighbors give them a call!! Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 33064... MORE
G'day Nigel et al As much as I agree with Bob (get a new one) I understand your penchant for originality and budget repairs. So here is an (almost) fail-safe method for freeing seized hydraulic components. (No, Nigel, I'm not being a smart-ass - we all have times where we just have to repair the used bit in front of us.) Take the part in question, let's say it's a clutch slave cylinder, remove all pipes and hoses, clean all the rust and debris out of the cylinder in front of the piston. You need to make it as... MORE
Steve Thanks for your reply. I have managed to unseize the slave cylinder, I'll see how it 'scrubs up' before deciding to reuse it. Regarding the windscreen, are you referring to putting the windscreen on the body - or actually getting the rubber seal into the frame itself? I've managed to get the seal into the frame after the tip from Brad - it worked ok, hard on the thumbs tho! I now need a source for a pillar seal, as I have a new one for one side, but not the other and Moss say its now NLA!... MORE
Second that, buy a new one. The cost to PITA ratio here is to high to rebuild. I tried to respond to your question yesterday on fitting the seal for the windscreen from work, but I got bounced as the email address was not registered. What I did was place a piece of nylon mason's line under the windscreen then work it up against the seal pulling it into place. We tried other methods but this was the easiest, and did the least damage to the new paint. Steve Quandt "smquandt" 33039... MORE
Now I had to replace this bit last month and just could not believe how easy it was to fit. I was ready for a real struggle. Plenty of washing up liquid and an ordinary not too sharp, non serated dinner knife. Laid one tongue of seal into grove and used the knife to press home the other tongue of seal half inch at a time and just worked my way along it. Knife needs to be blunt to stop cutting the seal. I did have to clean up the metal around the holes for the corner fixing screws... MORE
Hi everyone This is a question for anyone with a desmoged late model 1500 engined Midget. As I have kept with original on my '79 1500 I am in need of what is called the Air injection tube for this emissions system. It is a aprox. 1/2" metal tube that runs from the air pump check valve around the back of the cylinder head and screws into the exhaust manifold. It has a large fitting at the manifold and where it fits into the check valve. It is NOT the air rail type tube with the 4 branches to... MORE
Putting the seal in the bottom of the windscreen, needs lubricant. Before putting the windscreen on the car, put a calking along the ridge. They are know to allow water to come in under the sindscreen. Groments... I found most of them at a local hardware store, a very good hardware store, but still local. Foam under the heater box?? Moss doesn't show them in the cataloge here, I have never seen any, so I made one out of cork gasket material. It works, and you can't see it. I'm going to leave it there. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert... MORE
Hi folks OK ok ok ok ok - what's the secret to getting this sucker to fit? I've already spent about 3 hours fiddling with this piece of !$%&* and not got anywhere. It's the one that seals the bottom of the windscreen to the scuttle. Any advice on this one gratefully received! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33011... MORE
I used a plastic push stick, and a bondo spreader, to get it positioned, to sit flat enough to bolt the windscreen in place. You will also need about 3 mates to stand in the cockpit and hold the screen down, once you get the seal where it needs to sit. Brad "" 33015... MORE
Hi folks Does anyone know of a supplier of rubber grommets, specifically those used for where the wiring loom passes through metal holes in the bodywork? I know Moss do them, but I'm reluctant to spend =A32.75 (5 bucks) for a round bit of rubber with a hole in it! Likewise the foam seal for the heater box into the batteryshelf. Moss want a whopping =A34.95 for this (9 bucks) which I refuse to pay, I'll make one myself if necessary. Thoughts? tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 32996... MORE
Hi All. Well, we replaced the Master cylinder AND the slave cylinder, got the clutch bled and viola! ....the car ran like a well oiled top:) I had so much fun running around in it for 2 days...right up until I met with the local British Automotive club for a run...and it died on me in a parking lot. Damn! The fuel pump went out. We bought a new fuel pump today and I'll be up and running again in no time. The GOOD news, is that pretty soon I'll have replaced every part in the car and it... MORE
Shocks are OK, nothing wrong with them. As for the rest, one wishbone as I said is serviceable, just the pin won't come out. as for the rest, maybe I should mention I do have a workshop sufficiently tooled up to make the kingpin bushes from stock! although I don't intent to do so. As fro he wishbones the tine it would take me to remove and replace the threaded section VS the 100 UKP it would appear as though a new pair would cost to buy make it well worth me reconditioning them myself. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 32922... MORE
TJ, Just went through the same drill with my midget, at least regarding the brake lights not working. Check your brake light switch, which is just forward of the pedal box. If you have a faulty (read: leaking) MC or clutch MC, the fluid could have worked its way into the switch. A faulty switch will not operate the lights when the brake pedal is applied. Just another area to look at. Good luck, Pete "Pete Skalski" 32914... MORE
TJ, Forget the emergency brake and adjust the rear brakes first. When they are adjusted correctly see if that helps your gotta pump the brakes problem. If it dosen't then you probably have air in the system and will have to do a bleed to get it out. Also while you are at it pull the rear drums and check their inside diameter and the condition of the brake shoes. Really worn rear brakes (or rear brakes that need adjustment) will cause the pumping before they work problem. You said you have a firm pedal once pumped up so... MORE
Hit a mild problem with the front end of the 1500, no surprise the suspension at the front is wobbling about. Passenger side turns out to actually have a good kingpin on it, but the lower wishbone bush is shot, it's way off centre and wobbling about like a good'un. Having drilled the coter pin out (which appeared to be fitted upside down, with the nut on the underside?)the trunion bolt(?) holding the kingpin on if stuck solid to it, so I have had to take a hacksaw to it. The two ends of it that were in the... MORE
Jeesh...the "Toyman" is literally falling apart here! Becoming a physical wreck long before his time. ( (Too many late nights, toking and drinking combined with weird sexual "gymnastics" and general "over-activity" I suspect?:) Anyway...the torque figures in the book for the head consist of two..."early" and "late" studs. I've always had the "late" studs and have always torqued to 50lbs. with the exception of my '74 Vizardized 1340 which ran 11.0-1, so we went to 60 on 10 studs, and 30 for the front "bolt". SLIGHT seepage of oil between the head and block is really nothing new or... MORE
