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Rick, FWIW: I own a 75 and one of my early moves was to lose front and rear bumpers (someone actually paid me for them) as I hate the damn things. I had them sawn off at a body shop flush with the front valence(?) and have an earlier grill mounted. My header clears the sides of the engine bay with no problem though it is a little close below where the collector gets taken through 90 dgs. to go under the car. Wha' kine hedda ya got? Rob C-75 midget on the road again Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local... MORE

It will obviously reduce the strength back to what it had been thought adequate for the previous 15 years of Spridget production. I've never done it, but it should be fairly easy to do, if you can get access to drill/grind all the spot welds. The only converted rubber bumper shell I've seen personally was used with A series running gear so it didn't have your clearance issues, and the owner cut his 70-74 type grill to fit round the rails, and hid the ends with a pair of spotlights. David "David Jacobs" 37046... MORE

I thought you might like to see these stats about dragsters. It is surprising and amazing. Bob Dragsters..... Cool info about dragsters.......... * One Top Fuel dragster 500 cubic inch Hemi engine makes more horsepower than the first 4 rows of race cars at the Daytona 500. * Under full throttle, a dragster engine consumes 1=BD gallons of nitromethane per second. * A stock Dodge Hemi V8 engine cannot produce enough power to even drive the dragster supercharger. * With 3000 CFM of air being rammed in by the supercharger on overdrive, the fuel mixture is compressed into a... MORE

Guys - Has anyone out there successfully removed the added frame rails on a later MG Midget, the ones that run from the firewall through the engine compartment, out the grill opening to support the those fugly rubber bumpers? Running out of room for my headers and was wondering what lies underneath them if I removed them entirely, or if it will affect the strength of the body much. Was going to cut them back to put a standard type of grill in it and need to notch a large portion of them out for the headers anyway...... Later... MORE

or if you prefer, "headers" G'day all Please forgive me for this bit of advertising, but it might be to your benefit. I mailed a nice set of extractors to one of our friends in the US, only to discover that they don't fit left hand drive cars. This was a surprise as I have a set on my LHD race car, made by the same manufacturer. I guess they changed their pattern! Anyway, these extractors are now in the US, looking for a home on a right hand drive car. If you have a RHD car, you might... MORE

Welcome back, Robert. Believe me, everybody here has been thinking about you and the family. Good to get back to work, if only to show others (like your grandchildren) that life must go on. I know that you will be hurting for a long time. So stick around. BTW, a posidriv article is at http://www.justbrits.com/pozi/pozidriv.html Allen Hefner and . they anything is the e screws Allen Hefner 36998... MORE

While trying to reassemble the head of a 1500cc midget I managed to strip the thread of a nut. I hadn't crossed the thread. I was using a Torque wrench and was at least 10% under the Haynes manual recommend torque of 46lbf ft. (I was very relieved when I found out it was just the nut cause I had assumed it would be the stud.) I was now going to replace all of the nuts, does any one know the thread size? Is there any where I can find out thread sizes for various items? Also I presume... MORE

Anyone know if stainless steel fuel tanks are still available for early Spridgets, mine is a MKIII Sprite 1966. I Know they were available a couple of years back but currently none of the usual suspects here in the UK seem to stick them. I think the Idea of a stainless tank is brilliant since there is mo possibility of corrosion crud building up on the inside and finding its way in to the carbs (ever) and no need to paint the outside. Thanks and best regards Dave "David Dixon" 36963... MORE

Only one thing .. doesn't the 65 have a tent for a roof? I really would not waste the money on rebuilding the engine if its running fine, far better spending the money on the body, plenty of spare mechaincals about from peple who have done it the wrong way round and found they can't afford to get the body done. 2nd gear syncro is prone to wearing, just learn to drive without it chances are if the box is rebuilt it won't be long before it is shot again!, I suspect most of the other list members have!,... MORE

Ginger If the car has disc brakes up front you should have the later m.c. 1098 style. Mike mk2sprite@... 36945... MORE

Hello, Well it's a sad day I have to sell my Sprite. Life and school don't seem to agree with my little English car. Here is a list of all the goodies that it has: Some details are: Engine 1089cc bored .040 over Intake valve is 1 5/16"(Rimflow) Exhaust valve is1 1/16 (Rimflow) The head has been ported and has a 10:1 compression ratio. The cam specs are duration @ .020 (In./Ex.) 268-272. Rockers ratio is 1.5:1 Duplex adjustable cam gear Also has Isky duel value springs. Pistons are flattop Hepolites Heavy-duty radiator/with 10" fan Twin HS2s with red... MORE

Thanks Joe. I DO have the larger engine but am pretty sure that's all that's been swapped out. "Ginger" 36943... MORE

You should have the later 3/4" bore MC, as fitted to the 1098 cars, assuming someone hasn't swapped it for the early one. "joe blxfstz" 36942... MORE

I have the dual master cylinder and am ordering the parts. I have the 65 Midget MKIII. Do I get the parts for the 948 or the 1098? The VIN is GAN3l 36873 if that helps. "Ginger" 36941... MORE

1. A complete 1967 Midget, starting price $50 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4548032250&category=39405 2. A complete 1971 Midget, starting price $25 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4548040112&category=39405 3. A 1976 Midget ready for a Mazda heart transplant, starting price $50 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4548006959&category=39405 4. 1959 Bugeye, really nice condition, with dismantled 1275cc engine, bidding to $1025 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4548127411&category=6023 5. 1978 Rubbernose with air suspension (ugh), starting price $600 and Buy It Now $1000 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4548065373&category=39405 Now start bidding! and avagoodday Colin "Colin Dodds" 36937... MORE

I rebuilt the engine recently and I am trying to sort everything out before I try starting it. I took the plugs out, I thopught I primed the pump, and then I cranked the engine untill the battery was half dead still no oil pressure. Before anyone asks, I put three quarts of oil in already and there is a new filter installed, and the oil cooler is all hooked up. Whats wrong with this picture? "gan5ub91179g" 36936... MORE

"Oils ain't oils" Cheapo oil is exactly that...good base stock without benefit of the major mfgr's additive packages which make it "better" in preventing formation of acids, foaming, varnish/deposits, etc., etc., blah, blah, blah. While the tolerences within our older engines were spec'd with petroleum based oils in mind...viscosity as much if not moreso, as film strength being in mind as a "boundary" between parts ................a quart of synthetic within 3 of petroleum can only be a good thing in terms of upgrad ing the mix by "reinforcing" film strength while adding "slipperiness" to t he whole. I HAVE... MORE

Don't forget to check the cylinder head face is flat. Check the valve seats for pitting/burning. If they're not too bad, lightly grind the valves in, if it's really bad, consider getting the head converted to unleaded (something to think about anyway) Regarding the choke cable, if you're not messing about with the carbs, other than taking them off the head, leave them on the manifold with the cables connected. Other than that, get some small spanners! If you can't find any to buy, get a cheapo one and modify it to fit. Heat it up and hammer it... MORE

I am mid way though replacing the head gasket on my '76 Midget. I am going to replace all the gaskets you get with the kit but I was wondering if there is anything else worth doing while I have the chance? I have already flushed out the radiator. My engine is a little sooty around the valves faces but nothing too bad. THe pistons bore are all nice and smooth. Also is there a special techinque for getting the choke wire off the carburettor? The nuts are too samll for any of my spanners. Cheers Gav. "gav_newman" 36921... MORE

First the stupid question, is it one of those locks that you need to push in a button (or the whole key) to turn it to the lock position? If you do need to take it apart, the actual switch part can be removed from the lock itself, so you can isolate which bit is jamming, but if it is the lock, they don't come apart easily (for obvious reasons) Easiest thing is to replace it, together with the steering column it's attached to, with a brand new second hand one, if you can find one. If you definitely... MORE

I recently purchased a basket case MG but I got a great deal!! So anyways.. 73 1275 Midget starts, runs, timing is good, spark is good etc... Car drives gets up to speed. Gets hot after about 2-3 miles runs like garbage. So I checked the thermostat looked like crap so I replaced it. I am now trying to figure out which way does the water flow on this motor? Does the radiator supply from the bottom or the top? Trying to figure out if they had the thermostat in backwards really..or if the water pump is hosed. Jeremy... MORE

Hi Jeremy, Water flows from the block/thermostat housing to radiator top then cooler water returns to the water pump from the bottom of radiator. Thermostat should have the heat sensor/bellows toward the block. There may be a passel of other things that are wrong too. Such as radiator blocked with debris, return hose collapsing, heat gauge off calibration, vapor lock, fuel hoses partially blocked, the list goes on!! Don't run the car without a thermostat, either. May develop dangerous hot spots in the engine. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 36888... MORE

Hi: I have been lurking for a few days, just purchased a 1979 Midger and am sure will have several questions. The first problem is that the keyis very hard to turn from the unlocked to the locked postion. Have any of you had any luck removing the lock switch and repairing and reinstalling it. The manual speaks of shear bolts that would need to be replaced. TIA Vern Vern 36886... MORE

Ok I just finished re assembling the engine on my US Spec 1971 MG Midget after replacing th econrod bearings, honing the cylinders, and replacing the rings. I know I need to break her in easy, but how do I do that? "gan5ub91179g" 36878... MORE

p.s. If you want to know the origonal color without a doubt, contact British motor Heritage. For a small fee they will look through their archives and find out the origonal color, and even what options it left the factory with. "gan5ub91179g" 36876... MORE