MAIN
Engine (external)
Previous Page | Next Page
Martyn, You should be able to kill the motor by lowering the idle screws that hold the throttle plates open. The throttle plates are before the pistons and the only way the pistons will rise is if the throttle plates are open so springs won't do anything for idle - find out why - it is something basic. The throttle plates should close tight enough to hold liquid. Jon "jon paschke" 26430... MORE
funny amount of positive camber. I did this at an event one time many many years ago. I had help from a friend who should have also known better. We both were on the receiving end of lots of jibes and laughs from all the other club members who witnessed our folly!!! You can check: http://www.ahsdc.org/goblins/tech/frontend.htm for some diagnostics courtesy of the late Bob Gill and Gillspeed. If you don't find anything seriously wrong, then it is time to inspect the engine bay for signs of a smack on the front left side. (substitute front right side in case... MORE
If what Mike says checks out and the diff looks okay, check the transmission/motor mounts. I had a similar sound and I guess the body carried or amplified the sound of the drive-train flexing because after I replaced the mounts, the sound stopped. Jack Texas "austinbud2002" 26390... MORE
Hi guys I've uploaded a few more photo's to the website photo's page under the folder Nigel-71-Midget. The underside is now finished in Blue Royale, the engine bay is primed and seam sealed ready for top coat and I'm just finishing the inside in primer. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26383... MORE
Bob.... Go with an alcohol/water mix (60/40) and I am quite sure you could run up to 8psi boost on 9.4 with no problem but, you're gonna be far better off running both the foregoing along with an ignition retard system or, limiting advance to something like 24 degrees on a regular mechanical advance distributor considering the best you can get in terms of pump fuel will be 98RON unleaded. MSD makes an excellent boost retard ignition system and I am sure Aldon over there has some ideas in this respect as well which may very well consist of... MORE
yes. Different crank and rods (inferior metal, but larger big-ends). Front mounting plate is different (and a mod to the oil pan too I believe) Oil filter is spin-on on the side of the block pointing upwards somewhat. low comp pistons I think. Single row timing chain maybe (OK, I am struggling to recall after the 1st three items) The A+ out of the Ital has a ribbed block, so that is good... Mike "Mike Gigante" 26375... MORE
if im building a midget metro turbo but want to keep the boost to 7/8 psi and use an intercooler and aquamist 1s water injection could i use the comp ratio of 9.4:1? and remain well under detonation level? what would be the best way to build this engine or which engine midget/marina etc would be best to use for this application? the reason for the higher comp is i still want good half throttle fuel economy which ignition system would people reccomend for this too? thanks for using everyones vast knowledge rob "Robert EADES" 26378... MORE
is there any difference between the morris marina and midget 1275 engine? cheers Rob "Robert EADES" 26369... MORE
Do you smell gas when driving of if the car is parked? If no puddles, no smell, no pools of fluid on the engine then are you sure you are losing fuel? Could it be the gauge? Fill it up drive home...Park it...next day go back and fill her up again. How much is gone? More than normal for that trip? Could someone be stealing your gas out of the tank? Bill French Hilton Head frenchww@... 26366... MORE
Ed... This is strictly a matter of density altitude or to put it differently, the amount of air molecules per cubic foot of.....air!! The air at 10,000 feet is much "thinner" than the air at sea level...it is much "lighter" per cubic foot. Fr'instance, at sea level a cubic foot of air weighs 14.7 lbs. It weighs half of this at an altitude of 18,000 feet. The adiabatic lapse rate (temp. change per thousand feet) and it's humidity figure into this but we'll ignore these for now. So for the volume of air taken in at 10,000 feet, you... MORE
Which makes/models are suitable for conversion to electric motor power? (i.e. use it as a 'glider' for an electric car) Thanks for all responses. Also, check out this little DIY alarm-pager-intercom on Ebay now: Item no: 2439666572 "xxxrs2003" 26331... MORE
Yes, Martyn...agreed. Assuming the cam is properly timed in in accordance with previous post, I would at this point expect an induction leak(s) of some kind. VP3 cam or not, the engine should be capable of reduced idle to the point the engine will quit, though in reality 1,000rpm is a more realistic setting with this cam and even then, it'll be pretty lopey, even in a 1275. Not a displeasing sound though, IMHO!! :) Spraying carb cleaner (be careful) in and around the induction system should tell the tale in this respect...the idle will immediately change if and... MORE
Bob, Well... You're right what skews my thinking is that many years ago I had a worn timing chain that was so bad the headers would glow red as the engine speed increased. BTW the chain is new duplex with vernier gears. In order to get it to idle 900-1000 I had to retard the timing (rotate the dizzy ccw). The idle screws would have no effect on the speed unless I did that. Does this mean I got some leaks around the carb shafts? I'm going to go back and static time the ignition and see where it's... MORE
I know this is basic but maybe it will save someone else a lot of frustration. The previous owner of my car had installed a Pertronix distributor conversion on my 1963 1098cc Sprite. No other modifications; no new wires, coil or plugs. Since I drive this car to work every day, I decided to replace all of the basic electrical components; relay, fuse box, spark plug wires etc. I also decided to replace the Pertronix unit with a new one AND their coil. Having accomplished all of that, the car ran hot, stumbled until it got warmed up and... MORE
Well... Sounds to me like you've got ignition timing mixed up with cam timing. The cam timing can be "staight up" or for a little heftier lower range at minimal expense to the top end, timed in no more than 4 degrees "advanced" per Vizard's recommendation. Assuming you are using a new timing chain, after initial chain "stretch" the cam will end up running 2 degrees advanced...perfect! For your application considering a small bore engine, and "long stroke" at that, I'd go "straight up" for the track, 4 degrees advanced for the road, most especially if you're planning to... MORE
The 1098 has a long stroke relative to its bore, so with VP3 cam I expect it would be more 'lumpy' running engine.Especially at low end of revs and not particularly a fast revving engine either (not knowing what else has been done to the engine of course) Don , Part Scotch , nah !!!. Scottish maybe but not Scotch, scotch is whisky !!! Depends on how much you have drunk over the years I suppose, then you could be part scotch !!! 8o) Jaeger , not English or ever made in England as far as I know, but... MORE
Well, Alan (good morning, BTW!)... The VP3 would be "more" of a cam in the smaller rather than larger bore engines. The shorter the stroke, the more "square" the engine, the more "revability", all else equal (BIG caveat.. the latter!:). So, the long bore stock 1098 wouldn't be a "revver" but man, it has got to be one of the smoothest of all Series A varients with it's "silky" exhaust note. Martyn's 1098 is "built" though. Friend of mine owns an XK140....huge Jaeger gauges....a good 4.5" I believe for tach and/or speedo. Good point on the red lights...which is... MORE
Hi all,is there many of you out there who have used the engine from the marina/ltal for your cars,l have just fitted mine so l had better get on and put the rest of the car together so l can run it.While on this subject and if its a help to any one,l have used a inlet manifold from titon motor sports to mount a carb from an MG metro,but even using that manifold the carb was very close to the bonnet,so l cut 1/4" off the damper piston rod and then put the damper pot in the lathe... MORE
VP3 cam...oh, yeah!!! Martyn, this is about as hot as you can get for the road in a 1275 and still have decent low end for light to medium traffic. In your smaller 1098, it's almost a mild race cam! Hopefully, you have the larger main bearing "cc" engine because this cam's torque curve comes in at about 3200 on a 1275cc+ motor and will pull right through 7,000rpm with larger valves and 1.5 rollers. On my 1340, it would idle very nicely at about 1,000rpm (nice "lopey" sound) and behaved very well using a 45DCOE with a Weber... MORE
Thanks to all that offered suggestions. To all, it's rather embarrassing but I have solved my problem! I thought I'd set the point gap well..... I must have screwed up and got to large a gap! I closed the gap some and it started right up. I should have thought of this, I ran the car 100 miles a day 18 years ago. Maybe my memory is not a sharp as it used to be. Anyway I need to get it to idle below 1000, it's got a VP3 cam so I realize it will never idle very smoothly.... MORE
G'day Alan et al Can't help with the combustion chamber volume. The kerosine keeps running out those large holes where valves should be! The combustion volume depends on (amongst other things) how "proud" the valves sit off the seats. And since the head has no valves, and I have no new valves to try in it, and since I don't feel like buying two new valves - I can't answer your question! But I do know I have machined over .100" off head faces before exposing the oil feed line. With the higher comp pistons available, it's unlikely you... MORE
Hey guys, I am thinning out the heard(sniff...sniff!) as I am moving the hell outa the SF bay area to Fresno! I canactually afford to buy a house there(and get to work on and eventually my Girlfriend(fiance)'s dad's bugeye....so...here goes..later on I will get an early sprite of some sort(sooner than later, but the less to move/store the better..may e selling teh westfalia too..) 1963 Midget Right hand drive Roll-bar origional colour green, but been red most of life I think, currently hot rod black primer good running engine, drivetrain, suspension needs to be gone through as usual the... MORE
I have a restored 60 Bugeye that I bought from a P.O. that had stripped, primmered the body, and installed the disc brakes, rear end, and brake system(new), had the engine, transmission, rear end rebuilt, bought ALL NEW chrome and glass for the car. I am self employed at an obscene hourly wage, so I don't work very much ($100.00 hr), so I had my car painted and then I assembled, re- painted, Bought & painted hardtop, re-painted car, repainted car & hardtop, in 14 months with a total cost (me + P.O.) of 18,000 in parts and labor... MORE
Nigel, Couldn't agree more. Concours isn't worth the effort. Like you, I bought my car to drive. I've loved LBC's since I was a kid. I actually bought and drove a '69 Triumph GT6+ when I was 19 and have been hooked ever since. Had to sell it after 9 months for the college fund but I sure wish I had it today. Unlike you however, I always planned a non-original car. In my opinion, driveability is somewhat compromised by MG technology which is a polite way of dissing Lucas. My best improvement to the car was dumping the... MORE
Colin at sprite parts wrote I happen to have a brand new 12G295 head, still in the BMC wax paper. So I measured it for you. It is exactly 2.754" thick. So, That means it's just inside the drawing tolerance of 2.75" +/- 0.005" However,Colin The depth dimension of the combustion chamber - could you give us a dimension of this please. ,( which is more critical to find out out if the engine face has been machined) In fact any dimensions for a brand new head would be useful. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I include part of an email I sent... MORE
