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Since I have/Drive one of those un-civilised frogeye's, W/5 speed, I will take a stab at two of your questions, the RPM shouldn't be one of them because yesterday I was doing 70 at about 3500 RPM's. Your Oil Pressure sounds ok for a used engine. If during the 16 years it was down, you rebuilt it..... Not good. You might want to check the crankshaft bearings for excessive wear or the crank being oval. My 1275 runs 60-70 at 2-5,000 RPM, 50-60 psi at idle, but mine was rebuilt 1700 miles ago, not just the engine, the whole... MORE
The crank pulley on my 1968 1275 engine has two identical marks, about 10 degrees apart. Which one is correct for ign timing? "joe blxfstz" 37343... MORE
I finally have my 1500 back on the road and am able to drive it agian after 16 years of having it in bits. I have a number of questions, some are 1500 only and some will be relavnt to late 1275. First one, What RPM is 60MPH? My car is alagedly giving 60MPH at 4K RPM in 4th gear, given I was on the motorway keeping up with traffic and overtaking some of it I am not convinced it is reading right! at points it was reading close to 70, others lower than 60, but the revs remained... MORE
G'day Jeremy Your car probably had a PVC (Positive Crankcase Ventillation) valve on the inlet manifold, connected via a rubber hose to the engine breather. When you had your foot off the throttle, the partial vacuum in the inlet manifold helped to reduce the pressure in the sump, thus (in theory if seldom in practice) minimising oil leaks out of the rear main bearing. This PCV valve was later deleted, and the hose from the engine breather went to a plastic Y-piece and then via two short rubber tubes to these pipes on the carbies. You have two options.... MORE
G'day guys Sprite and Midgets had 7" front drum brakes. But you knew that didn't you. Austin A40 ("A40 Farina" for us Down Under and in the UK) had 8" front drum brakes fitted to an identical stub axle. So yes, it's as complicated as undoing the 4 bolts that hold the brake backing plate to the stub axle, and swapping over the backing plates and everything attached to them. It's a common mod down here as our vintage racers must retain drum brakes - discs not allowed. Also good for the part-time Concourse entrant as few judges notice... MORE
Jeremy, Just had a go-round with my carbs which are earlier with no vent tubes. If my experience is any example the carbs will "Y" off the valve cover and provide negative pressure in the valve train. This is a good thing. If my understanding of the setup is correct you need to hook this up or you will leak oil from strange places. In my case out of the dipstick tube among others. Rob C-75 Midget on the roand and running fine. Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 37329... MORE
Jeremy... these "tubes" feed graduated (specifically sized) orifices through which crankase gasses are fed into the combustion process in a measured amount, off the "flame arrestor/oil vapor separator (through appropriate hoses and plastic "T" fit ting) mounted on the timing chain cover. These make up the "exit" or "exhaust" side of the PCV system on engines so equipped, the "inlet" side of the equation being a filtered plastic oil filler cap on the "early" cars or a feed tube into the valve cover (again, through a "graduated orifice) from the charcoal cannister on later emissions vehicles equipped with closed... MORE
I recently picked up a couple sets of ratty HS2 carbs from a guy. I bought them to replace mine because the float body nipples on my carb body were broken off. So more about my question... I noticed after cleaned these carbs that there is a copper tube that appears to be a vent or something. It's behind the slide and comes out @ a 45 degree angle. Looks to be about 1/4" OD tubing? It's on both carbs.. See attached. My original carbs do not have these vents on them.. Jeremy Loukinas 37306... MORE
"we think turbocharging is the way forward" Most likely is, if someone can come up with a "variable" waste gate for both low and high end and a nice, "flat" torque curve.... and have no fear....somebody will!! :):) And of course, intercooling of the charge is a real nice thing to have for obvious reasons. The great thing with supercharging is "immediate" low/mid-range torque for the basically stock street car....in the order of a 40% with a "gentle" (on the motor) 6psi. IOW, (high) revs are not required, which for our 3 main bearing applications is a blessing. A... MORE
The VIN of this car is just a few digits lower than mine. Just a couple of "issues" - wrong engine color and the rockers are not black, otherwise it is very pretty "Jim" 37288... MORE
I have a 73 midget that is kinda going thru a rolling resto. I am getting ready to pull the motor and go thru it and while I have some downtime I want to work in the engine bay cleaning it up. Doing the engine bay body color is out of the question because I don't know what color the car is going to be changed to. I am looking for some suggestions on what kind of paint to use in the engine bay. I am thinking something that has a Satin Finish to it. If I grind a... MORE
Yep!! There you are! And at the going price considering the MiniMania/Hans Pedersen kits. More low/mid-range torque for street fun. Having driven a stock '67 1275 Spridget using 6psi boost, I can honestly say it is worth the 3k assuming you are go ing to keep the car. Probably one of the most worthwhile upgrades besides the Datsun 5 speed for those who want true "quick". 6psi is the lowest amount of "effective" boost (torque/heat) without unduly loading stock parts providing you don't over-rev the motor and resist the urge to constantly take it to the redline, bearing in... MORE
Just some off the wall thoughts. $3000 is a lot of money, and unless your engine is already in perfect condition, you would probably want to do an engine rebuild too, so you're at maybe $4500 ready to rock 'n roll. You could do a reworked head, cam, bigger carb, overbore, have less money in the job, just as much HP, and probably better bottom end torque. It like like a stock engine with the Moss SC should produce something like 90 HP. Lot of money for that, say $180 per HP, and that's without any clutch or rear... MORE
I have just replaced the head gasket on my 1500cc Midget, so I was quite chuffed to say the least when it turned over after only a few attempts. However I was not so happy when I noticed at lot of petrol was coming from the bottom of the rear float. I have twin SU carbs. I know that this was dripping a tiny amout of petrol before I changed the gasket but it is now flooding out. I realise extra fuel will have got in while I was turing the engine over to set the rocker gaps, but... MORE
Having done this I concour, take the engine out with the gearbox attached.. life is much eaisier this way Stewart "Ford Prefect" 37254... MORE
a piece of wire through the one of the top bolt holes in the tranny...slip the wire in just before the locating pin clears.... then just tie it off to whatever is handy.. like the heater box.... there is not a huge amount of weight to support.. mitch "prest_m" 37248... MORE
I've got to put a new clutch in my BE. Although the present one has done only 8000 miles, the center of the pressure plate has come loose (What do you call that part, the pressure pad?) Anyway, the question is this: I'm going to have to lift the engine (I'm leaving the tranny in the car), then roll the car out from under the engine. Any tips on supporting the tranny during this operation? I'm thinking about a temp support, maybe a piece of wood, screwed to the footwells. "joe blxfstz" 37246... MORE
Am finally enjoying my car after 6 years of effort and no little frustration... mostly due to my inexperience and limited mental capacity. However there is an annoying problem: I can't keep the Damn bonnet closed. The mechanism seems OK. Is there a trick or procedure known to any out there to line the bloody thing up properly so it will stay closed? I'm about ready to put a blower on the thing and run with an open engine bay. Rob C. 75 Midget, ugly but running well. Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll... MORE
The clutch throwout bearing on the 1275 is a carbon faced bearing, not a ball bearing like other cars, The carbon rides on the triangular shaped flat surface of the spring plate that holds the clutch plate the the flywheel. There are "kits" out there that allow the use of a ball bearing type throwout bearing with the stock clutch - perhaps this is causing your confusion? If you have a transmission convertion, you would most likely have a different throwout bearing. "Jim" 37236... MORE
They are for a 73 1275 and they are brand spankin' new still in the box. I cannot remember what I paid from MOSS, but I will let them go for $480.00 and I will pay shipping (to any Texans residing in NM). I take credit card or you and I can work out a deal offline if you want to discuss further. -Spence "Spencer Baker" 37229... MORE
I get it! With the engine running, put it in gear, let the clutch out, then get out and look under the car for the spinning drive shaft... Be sure and let us know how that one turns out...a wheel chock with hair? "Jim" 37220... MORE
If the half shaft has parted, the car may be rolling, the engine running, the clutch engaged, and the wheels turning but they are not connected to each other! Bob "Robert D. Gardner" 37219... MORE
The Organization Of Spridget Handymen in Transit got together yesterday to swap out Larry Macy's engine. Larry got a rebuilt (A wedding present? How thoughtful.) and it was about time to do the deed. Kevin and Rob Valentine, Phil Nase (?), Bill Gilroy and I showed up at Larry's. I understand that Frank Clarici had some problems on the way back from Carlisle so he couldn't make it. I'm sure Frank will fill us in. First we pulled the old engine and tranny, then Kevin and Larry timed the new cam and finished the reassembly. The rest of us... MORE
G'day all The MGB heat shield will work, after you cut it in half, but it might not be easy to find one that the owner will part with. They might prefer to sell the manifold, carbies, heat shield etc as a complete unit. Mini Cooper S had 1.5" SUs as an option, and their heat shields were actually two pieces with a bridge joining them that also held the return springs. You could use the appropriate side of this set-up if only you could find them! I can only supply them new, as a pair, for around $35... MORE
"underinflation costs big time" Exactomunderino. Airline's maint. depts. also are "tracking" their "working"aircraft engines , brakes, etc. as we speak. Saves "surprises" and big "planning" bucks and God knows, they need all the help they can get these days. :( Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37209... MORE
