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I am completely new to the MG Midget, so please bare with my lack of knowledge. I fell in love with a 1976 Midget and bought it. The man who owned it also gave me a running 1275cc engine from a 1967 Midget and said I should definately put that motor in the car. He told me the 1500 was not a good motor. Please give me some advice as to what to do? Is the 1275 that much better? Thanks! Chris "Chris Hall" 25630... MORE
What is the correct color to paint the water pump pulley on a 73 Midget(1275)? Thanks, Jim C 73 Midget 66 MGB "klutterbutt92530" 25584... MORE
Hi, Bree... More specific information would be required in each case for accurate answers, Bree. With respect to the brakes... are you making an assumption, here? Air just does not get into the brake system "automatically" or "overnight"...unless you've suddenly developed a hydraulic leak wherein air displaces fluid which has leaked out or you have suddenly developed a master cylinder or other mechanical problem(s) within the system. Otherwise, besides low brake fluid (when was the last time this was topped off?), worn brake pads are most likely the first place I'd look with a suddenly "soft" pedal (when was... MORE
HI GUYS, I'M RESTORING A 1960 FROGEYE THAT HAS NO ENGINE. I HAVE A MORRIS MINOR ENGINE THAT LOOKS SIMILAR TO THE 948cc. IS THIS ENGINE THE SAME AS WHAT WENT INTO THIS CAR? ITS ONLY A SINGLE CARB, WOULD I HAVE MUCH MOD'S TO DO TO GET IT UP AND RUNNING. I ALSO HAVE NO WIRING LOOM BUT CAN GET A NEW ONE EASILY, WOULD I HAVE ANY PROBLEMS WITH THE LOOM? THANKING YOU, ROBERT KENNEDY. "robblola" 25583... MORE
Robert, someone will help you out with your question, ie ... can it be change to be like the 948 cc '59 Sprite engine? Where are you? Tell us more about the car. Where did you get it? Why no engine? Racer? Trany ? Condition? Bill French Hilton Head, SC '59 Bugeye '73 RWA frenchww@... 25596... MORE
I am getting ready to put the front plate on the 1275 I am building, and the cam sticks out a about 1/8" and won't allow the triangle type retainer to fit flush against the front of the block. Any ideas why it may not be going back into the block? Brad Brad Fornal 25585... MORE
Hello group, I would like to top off the shocks on my 67 Austin Healy Sprite and 74 MGB. If my memory serves me correctly Moss Motors sells it but it should be a common staple at the local Auto Parts Store. What is it ? Thanks Just B Crusin crfkingfish@... 25577... MORE
I am having a bit of a clear out. All the following items are from 1972 1275 Midget which I have rebuilt for Hill Climbing Pair of Seats with head rests new covers serviceable but really need refurbishing 5 Rostyle wheels original distributor pair of SU on manifold with air cleaner original steering wheel front brakes callipers, new discs, hardly touched green stuff pads anti tramp bars complete kit effectively unused Make me an offer Based in Leeds UK "Peter Whittle" 25549... MORE
Kevin.... With respect to the picture of the crankcase ventilation system at the carbs.....the system does not appear to be "pinched off" from what I THINK I see. The large hose from the front cannister on the timing chain cover appears to be clamped to a non-stock "Tee" fitting from which smaller hoses are clamped that run to the crankcase emissions breather ports on each carb. Perfectly normal set-up assuming these hoses are not clogged. Take the hose off at the cannister, clean the end and blow through it. With some restriction (the "exhaust holes" in the carbs are... MORE
Hi... please don't laugh as I am a novice to this MG stuff. I have just purchased my first Midget and have a little niggle. When I turn the ignition key to the first position I get a subtle knocking noise - obviously something electrical - maybe fuel pump or starter motor???? As I start the engine and drive this knocking is still there (so obviously a necessary part of the running of the car) but the noise becomes louder and louder on an ad-hoc basis especially after a long run then pulling up at traffic lights). Should I... MORE
ahummm... Wasn't it a special bolt for the shock mountings regarding the amount of thread? I thought to remember that it only has some thread at the end (1 inch or so). So not really something of the shelf (regardless of the strength)....or can the original ones be replaced by full length threaded bolts without consequences??? Regards, Eeg. Eeg.Oberije@... 25538... MORE
Well, I'll say this: The suspension and other mechanical components were designed a half century ago, and I am unaware of any widespread failures due to underspecification of fasteners. The state of design at that time (no computers) meant that many things were overengineered. I suspect that is true of the fasteners. It is also true that modern grade 8 bolts are *probably* stronger than what was available at that time. If it were my car, I'd have no qualms about using grade 8 in any application except internal engine parts. If you can't sleep with that, you can... MORE
Okay, ED - Here's the story: Grades 5, 8, etc are American designations which were never used in England. I don't know, and you don't either, what strength bolts and in which applications were used in cars of long ago. Maybe some of them were not very strong, but I can assure you that some were very strong. They were often not marked since their use was controlled by part number, and one would have to refer to the parts drawings and the old British Standards to find out exactly what they were. That said, bolts in critical safety-related... MORE
I have been watching this thread, and have missed where the oil is coming from. I had a problem with my Bugeye (1275) a while back in that it was cold and I was putting 20/50 oil in. The oil was right, but the tempature was too cold and the oil was too thick to go back down the pushrod holes. I found a leak at the back of my valve cover, and I had "OIL, OIL Everywhere" Since he says that his engine is cold, and he just bought the car, I am wondering, 1. did you change... MORE
Nope. Grade 8 is stronger is tension and in shear. BTW, there are plenty of grade 8 and stronger bolts in old cars. They just aren't marked as such. Don't believe that? Okay, torque up some grade 5 rod bolts in your (pre 1980) L88. Can you say "bang"? "Jeffrey Holmes" 25521... MORE
Nope. grade 8 is heat treated alloy steel. It is not stainless. It is stronger in all directions than grade 5. Every car uses bolts of grade 8 and stronger, in many areas. "Jeffrey Holmes" 25520... MORE
I made my statement...and I usually never reply a second time... but regardless of what 'tach' manuals say... I'll stick to 'real life' experience and training anytime. And as someone else just mentioned... the 'grade 8' most mention these days did not exist 'way back when' Oh..and to whom ever mentioned grade 8 and something about crank main and rod bolts. I will blatantly say you're WAY off. Head bolts/studs, crank and rod bolts are not 8. they are usually SDF and CHQ grade as even grade 8 is below aircraft quality and by spec is allowed to contain... MORE
I finally got fuel flow up to the carbs but the front jet is leaking where it threads into the float bowl. I tightened it but it still leaks the tube can be pulled out of the nut even when tight. Is there anything that can be done or is it time for new jets? This engine better start right away or else! Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25526... MORE
Jeff... I don't think saving bucks was ever this lister's priority...and you actually confirm this considering the very minor difference in cost between 5's & 8's. Rather... .I think he's looking for the "right" or "best" bolt to use and is looking for sound advice from someone who "knows" what factory original was in these respects. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25524... MORE
"Ok, I exaggerated" Oh....ok. 'Cause you never know, Kevin... people do put different engines in these cars from time to time. So...back on track. I would go with the Bob Gardner idea regarding running the engine without the valve cover and seeing whether the oil is flowing freely down the lifter holes back down into the block..... and let us know. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25523... MORE
Hello all, Well, I fired her back up today. Put my hand over the oil filler hole, and let it idle. There was no significant vaccuum and no significant air pressure. The valve cover filled about an inch and a half full of oil, with oil coming up the push rod tubes. I'm sure it would have kept going , but I shut it down. As I mentioned earlier, it sounds fine once it gets warmed up. It isn't missing and has good oil pressure. (although the oil gauge doesn't work (Problem #312 of 1067...get to that one later...)... MORE
So guys.... Which grade of bolt should our questioning lister be using??? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25507... MORE
Well Don May.... The crankcase takes incoming air from the charcoal cannister through a "graduated orifice" feed tube mounted on the valve cover, assuming the valve cover has a non-vented oil filler cap. The "exhaust" side would be the hose coming from the cannister on the timing case cover which vents into the intake system via individual hoses which feed a "graduated orifice" within each carburator. In this instance, while the engine is running, Kevin removed the oil filler cap and noticed no vacuum or pressure. So even though Kevin states the individual hoses to each carb appear pinched,... MORE
Kevin... You engine looks nothing like the engine in the Haynes manual? Hmmm.... Well...a picture is worth a thousand words, Kev. Those hoses to the carburators from the cannister on the timing chain cover should definitely be clear and open.... no doubt about this. If the valve cover was on the engine when you were running it, then with every respect, Kevin, there is no way you could tell where the oil was coming from... the oil filler hole is too small to provide a decent view and through this small hole, not enough light in there...to dark in... MORE
When I replace my front shocks, are grade 5 mounting bolts strong enough or should I buy grade 8 bolts? Nelson 62 Sprite "witstock7" 25480... MORE
