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Nigel, I think that to do it the trolley jack way you need to have the engine in place to add weight - or get somone to sit on the front wing to compress the spring. Guy "Guy Weller" 30740... MORE
what about rod bolts/nuts? David "David Jacobs" 30683... MORE
Duncan Did you manage to get replacement bolts for your wishbone spring seat? I wanted to replace mine with new ones, but whne I spoke to Moss, they said they were NLA, so I had to - re-use them, but they looked like pretty standard bolts to me. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30673... MORE
Hi Kevin Welcome to the group. This group is for all 'Spridgets' and many here are Frog owners, but you may like to try the other group specifically for Frogs - http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bugeye/ Yeah I don't know why those nutty Americans call them Bugeye's either ;) You may also want to check out Terry Horler's excellent book - Original Sprite and Midget, published by Bay View Books, ISBN 1-870979-45-1 This book has an excellent restorers section on Frogeyes and many of your answers will be found there. I'm not an expert on Frog's - there's many here you know a... MORE
Stewart With great difficulty! There's two ways of doing it - the safe way and the dangerous way! The safe way is as you're trying - to undo the bolts holding the spring seat into the wishbone whilst supporting the wishbone underneath on a trolly jack. If this is proving too hard - try the dangerous way - Support the wishbone on the trolly jack, undo the top kingpin trunnion bolt (that goes through the top kingpin trunnion and the arm of the shock absorber) and let the kingpin/stubaxle assembly drop down to the floor, whilst slowly lowering the... MORE
Hi there, Just signed up to this site. Last year got myself a '59 frogeye for a groundup restoration (definately not a runner!!). I think it spent its initial life in sunny Houston Texas before being repatriated to uk. It then apparently stood sometime before I got my hands on it. Anyway thats the history lesson. Taking it steady with the bodywork last year but getting there slowly (taught myself to TIG weld - a very neat way to weld!). I am spending time on indoor work because UK garages in the winter aren't fun - and I'm getting... MORE
Hi there, Just signed up to this site. Last year got myself a '59 frogeye for a groundup restoration (definately not a runner!!). I think it spent its initial life in sunny Houston Texas before being repatriated to uk. It then apparently stood sometime before I got my hands on it. Anyway thats the history lesson. Taking it steady with the bodywork last year but getting there slowly (taught myself to TIG weld - a very neat way to weld!). I am spending time on indoor work because UK garages in the winter aren't fun - and I'm getting... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 6:09 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Front spring removal Duncan Did you manage to get replacement bolts for your wishbone spring seat? I wanted to replace mine with new ones, but whne I spoke to Moss, they said they were NLA, so I had to - re-use them, but they looked like pretty standard bolts to me. Nigel "Duncan Sinclair" 30685... MORE
How is it done? I have read the method in the Haynes, and I am not certain any of the 4 bolts on each side will survive being taken off! or even if they will come undone at all. tried one and it sheared immediately, another is just turning and it looks nearly impossible to get a spanner of the upper side of it on the inner two bolts. The inner two wishbone pins are loose which is to be expected after years of being covered with oil and grease. 4.5 inch bolts threaded all the way seem a... MORE
Yes, that is a tricky job. The 1/2" open end is what you need but be careful because of lack of space down there you can only turn it a couple flats at a time. Getting the nut back on...................... Well that's the real challenge. If you are doing it for the first time be prepared to spend some time getting it right. It took me a few times walking away and taking a break from it. You need hands that are not too large and get one had down there, one on each side, with your fingers on... MORE
Bill, I drilled pilot holes, one where the roll-pin hole is and one in the other "corner". I then opened them up and used an ordinary hand tap (taper, then plug) to thread them to take 3/8" bolts. The holes mustn't be too deep or you will break through into the cylinder bore and ruin it. The cylinder then fastens firmly in position with two short bolts through the backing plate. It is actually a very easy modification to do. But not for those with an "original" fettish. Guy "Guy Weller" 30642... MORE
A while ago there was some discussion of a Miata drivetrain in a Spridget. If anyone is interested in that sort of a project, I have a '95 Miata with a good running engine and 5 speed I'm probably going to part out. If anyone is interested in it, contact me off list. I also have a restored '68 Sprite that you can put it in if your want. I also have a complete '92 Miata I'm interested in selling if you want an extra sports car in your stable. The '95 is black on black and the '92... MORE
Hi James, welcome to the group. Do you have any pics of the car you'd like to post? The extra hood fastener was a factory-fit item but only for a short time at the beginning of production of that style of hood. Some people find it keeps the hood in better shape than just the velcro, and you can easily get the extra body stud if you end up getting that type of hood. Regards David "David Jacobs" 30624... MORE
Bill, A couple of points that may help: The "E" -clip goes on with the open gap towards the bleed screw. There is a very slight groove between the axle casing and the back plate that allows the edge of the clip to fit the space between the wheel cylinder and the axle casing. There are various techniques. I have found that if you can get the edges of the 3 lugs just against the edge of the wheel cylinder casting and then put a large socket against and give it a "light tap with a heavy hammer" it... MORE
Rob Yep, sadly I have to compromise my own beliefs at times. Mind you, the 1500 console doesn't look too out of place, and as it's an 'add-on' it can easily be removed and replaced as and when I do find an 'original' one. Those 'original' ones are quite scarce, and when I have seen them they're kinda pricey - I draw the line at some things. I've been replacing pretty much all of the nuts, bolts and washers as I've been refitting components, until I was quoted =A32.50 ($4.50 USD) for a single screw (the long one that... MORE
I've also recently had no end of problems with new electrical items failing after only about a weeks service, coils, plug leads, dizzy caps, rotor arms condensors etc across a whole range of classic cars Regards Chris Valentine Dunlop Motorsport David, Capn Bob also suggested the same things, the only area I have not looked at since I got this midget is float bowls. I change the fuel pump six months ago and the fuel filter one month back. I know the issues with getting the correct fuel pump, mine came from moss motors for a midget. Checking the... MORE
David, Capn Bob also suggested the same things, the only area I have not looked at since I got this midget is float bowls. I change the fuel pump six months ago and the fuel filter one month back. I know the issues with getting the correct fuel pump, mine came from moss motors for a midget. Checking the float bowls for sediment sounds like a great place to look. I will post the final solution when it is resolved. Thanks for the advice. Mark "MARK" 30579... MORE
Loopy Chris says .Not quite sure if I can get the ariel lead underneath the car as I think( could be totally wrong though and I've got the wrong end of the stick!) to be legal in this country, it has to be a certain distance ( im talking a fair space here , not a couple of inches) from any fuel tank or line , in case it causes a spark or something. Chris, Put some old jeans on and look under you car at the back. Look just in fron t of the fuel tank and you... MORE
Hi Guys, Been watching this site for some time. Many of you seem to be quite the expert on midgets. I have just tuned my 68 midget, runs great around town but on a steep uphill climb, experience a loss of power and engine runs rough for about a minute before I can continue. If there is still more hill it will bogg down and repeat until reach the top. Could this have something to do with the SU carbs? Obviously, I am a novice at this but am willing to learn. Any suggestions would be appreciated, Mark 68... MORE
Mark... Running rough can mean anything, so not really enough to go on. Usually an engine which runs "rough" under load is either overadvanced in terms of ignition or suffering from an ignition system which requires attention in that the spark is breaking down under load. This could be a bad coil, wires, cap or any other individual component not quite up to snuff. It could also be a combination of worn items, as well. Lastly, there is the fuel supply. Float levels set too low, inadequate pressure (old or bad pump) or inadequate supply (clogged filter, line or... MORE
Nigel, I was teasing! And you took the bait! I ran a 1500 for 8 years and have had my 1275 on the road now for 4 years, so I have experience of both. I prefer the 1275. It is a nicer engine, but I still believe that a properly built 1500 is a good little engine. It is probably less tolerant that an A-series, that's all. There is room for both! Enjoy the rest of your weekend Guy "Guy Weller" 30538... MORE
Ssssssshhhhhhh Toyman you cantankerous old git! lol Actually I know they wern't OE in this country, but they were surprisingly OE for the North American market. It was more a flippant comment than a serious one, I would love a set of chrome wires, but not willing to shell out the serious money needed to get them! At =A3120 to =A3150 each that's a lot of money. I'll stick to my painted wires I think! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30535... MORE
Rick, Some of the later 1500s had some sort of "safety device" anchor strap which connects the lump to the car so that in the event of an acciident they stay together. Maybe your braded cable is that. If not, then it is an earth strap Oh, and despite what Nigel says, the 1500 engine is perfectly good if it is put together properly and treated right. It doesn't rev as sweetly as a 1275 but it has loads more low-down torque. Guy "Guy Weller" 30510... MORE
Rick Grats on your new acquisition, don't take any notice of some of the list 'snobs' there's nothing at all wrong with a 1500 - they're great little cars (apart from the Triumph engine which is a dog) And good luck with it ....not saying any more on that ;) Braided cable - not sure - could be a ground, could be the handbrake cable? Pull cable is the bonnet release. The throttle pedal is available from Moss (well here it is - UK). Not sure what a dashpad is, do you mean the crash roll on top of... MORE
Listers - The friend I received my 75 Midget from has a set of wire wheels, if I remember I thought they were 14" wheels from a MGB, but no splined hubs, just the rims. My question is will 14" MGB wheels fit a Midget with the Midget Splines? Not sure if the would have the correct splines, hub bolt patterns and wheel offsets (I know B wheels are something like a 1/2" wider also), but a set of new low profile tires would give the correct outside diameter. Later Rick "Rick Bender" 30498... MORE
