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A follow up on the steering wheel lock clicking. The lock plunger knocking back and forth in the slot on the steering shaft formed sharp ridges on the top edges of the slot which when the steering shaft turned wore down the softer aluminum housing enough that the steel plunger was left slightly above the level of the surround housing and it was catching momentarily in the steering column slot as the steering shaft turned. I removed the steering column and rather than drill out the break off bolts took my Dremal tool and used a small thin cut... MORE
the same employer? same as what? Kimber was forced out of MG in 1941 as a result of his going 'behind the backs' of the Morris Motors management and obtaining the contract to build Albemarle bomber nosecones. He went to work for Charlesworth (the coachbuilder) and then Specialloid Pistons until his death in February 1945. Another theory as to MG not standing for anything is that it would distance the company from Morris Garages to avoid confusion between the separate busimesses and to reduce Sir William Morris' liability to the dreaded super-tax. "David Jacobs" 23710... MORE
Hi When I turn on the ignition switch, the starter motor starts the engine OK but stays engaged. Is this the ignition switch at about $180 or the solenoid at about $18? I suspect the switch as it doesn't spring back to the run position after holding it in the start position. It has to be manually turned back to the run position where the starter motor stays engaged at that time. Thanks Neil "Neil Hernan" 23722... MORE
I would suggest before you rush out to buy a new switch, disconnect the battery, spray plenty of WD 40 in it and work it back and forth repeatedly. Use plenty, enough to really flush it out. It's not that WD 40 is the best lube for a switch, but it won't hurt it and it will soften any old hardened oil and grime that may be causing it to stick. If it starts to work again flush it out again. You never know what previous owners have used to lube the switch if they did use oil it... MORE
Maybe. He stayed with the same employer up until his death in 1945 in a train crash The owner of the MG company (Mr W Morris), later Lord Nuffield, sold off the MG Car Company to Morris Motors Ltd, laying off many of the original MG staff and the team involved in race car development. All sounded like big business and the financiers moving in. So what changes?!! Guy "Guy Weller" 23689... MORE
Although I say Cecil Kimber was only an employee, he was the one who, off his own initiative, started modifying Morris cars and selling them as MGs The first ones only involved bodywork modifications and some accurate engine tuning (not engine modifiactaion) The effect was so good that before long they were selling more of the "MG " varients than the standard models. Only later did they get into racing and were pretty amazingly sucessful. Reall swept the board in the 750cc classes in a way that no modern manufacturer ever manages to do. They simply wipoed out the... MORE
Actually I purchased a 1977 MG Midget for my wife for a graduation gift. It really is a nice car and I'm sure we'll have many hours of enjoyment riding around the country side. But alass, the first problem has cropped up, or should I say problems. When I tried the car out the clutch grabbed close to the floorboard. Not a big problem I thought due to the fact I hadn't driven it before and wasn't sure what was normal. Within a short period of time and not much driving it seems that I am having problems shifting... MORE
I opened a sticking tach and found the trouble to be a warped plastic bobbin that was used to form the wire coil on the end of the indicator pointer. The bobbin walls are very thin as it is mounted on the moving needle, heat and age deteriorate and warp it to a point that it strikes adjacent surfaces causing the indicator needle to stick. I was able to gently pry off the warped and brittle side walls of the bobbin which allowed free motion again. Would not recommend trying this to anyone unless they are very comfortable working... MORE
Easiest way I found was to centre punch the break bolt, drill the end with a suitable size drill and use a stud removal tool. It is rather like a threading tap, except that it has a VERY course and shallow left hand helix running down it which causes it to pull into and tighten into the drilled hole, where it lock and then carry on unscrewing until the bolt is out. It only took me about 7minutes to remove all the screws. R. "Roger Stinson" 23607... MORE
Don, Re the crack, there are many al. alloys which are not weldable, but I have no idea about this one. In any case, a typical good welding-repair practice for large and relatively fragile castings such as this is to pre-heat the whole bare casting (in an oven) and keep covered with thermal blankets as much as possible during the weld time to minimise distortion. Without this, even if the bell housing IS weldable, one of the dangers is that you might just cause the crack to propagate further by attempting to weld in situ and thus cause more... MORE
Had to fight off some depression yesterday because my wrist joints were hurting so much buy the end of a day of cleaning the engine bay. . . the mind is willing but the old body is protesting and when I think of how much sanding I have to do on the bonnet . . . guess I will have to keep the pain pills handy and an ativan when the going gets really rough. Yours in pain, don Anyone ever noticed why the word paint contains the word pain? Nigel 71 Midget inching closer to its first coats... MORE
After stripping off the front end outer metal work and cleaning the engine compartment I discovered there is a crack in the transmission bell housing. The tab like area at the top of the clutch bell housing where the top two bolts are located has a horizontal crack below them.. It does not appear to be a major structural problem once the transmission bell housing is bolted on as all other areas and bolts are sound. It looks like an easy in place weld job. Is it possible to weld the aluminum housing material? Some PO strangeness as usual... MORE
to stop it engaging, you'll have to get the lock off the column - not an easy job - I've had to do it on 3 different cars :-( The easiest way is to get the column off the car completely and drill out the break-head bolts, though it's sometimes possible to use a sharp small centre-punch and unscrew the bolts by hitting the punch in the correct place. Once you've got the lock off, you can either mount it elsewhere so it doesn't engage with the column, weld a small plate over the slot in the column so... MORE
Ok folks I'm new to the MG money pit ! :) I need a windshield post for my 79 MG midget, and can any one tell me how to go about replaceing the glass. The next problem is engine overheating. That is a LONG story but I'm glad to share it with any one willing to listen. Lastly is body work. I need some help here too. I have been able to beat the prince of darkness ( Lucas ) at his own game hahaha. Also anyone out there need a tester for Triumph TR type fuel guages? I... MORE
Rick... Gerard is of course, correct, unless you are choosing between running a mechanical or electrical "puller", in place of the mechanical? Mechanical fans are mounted as close to the radiator as possible for maximum flow effect. And if you do decide to "replace" the mechanical rather than "supplement" it with a "pusher", you might as well order a larger 4.5" (Cooper S) water pump pulley and install same while you are "in there". And maybe even replace the old cast iron water pump with a "county" deep-impeller alum. one...without a water "bypass" for even better cooling in summer... MORE
Dear Listers, I hope someone out there can point me in the right direction. Just finished ( to the point where it should run well) my '75 Midget. I have a recurring problem with stumbling and power loss during higher speed cruising, above 40 mph. The spluttering is usually accompanied by a 5 dg. or so rise in coolant temp. If I back off, the car will smooth out again and run OK if I don't push it. The magic number seems to be 50 mph. If I cruise lower than that I usually don't have problems. At 50... MORE
Rob... the temp rise, along with the stumble... tells me it's running very lean at higher speeds. Do an old fashioned 'plug check'. Find a stretch of road where you can cruise at say.. 30-40mph steady for about 10 minutes. While at speed, switch off the ignition and coast/brake over to the side of the road. Pull a sparkplug and see if it's whitish, or grayish/brown in color. Now repeat the cruise at 50-55mph. Kill the engine at speed Pull over and check the plugs again. If they are much whiter than before....it's running lean. If you simply slow... MORE
I have a new Kenlowe kit, built to go in front of the radiator in my 71 crossflow 1275 Midget, but I'm interested in fitting the electric fan off a 89 Civic Si behind the rad if there's room. With my engine out, I can't measure the gap. The Honda unit looks far more robust an air mover, but will need a minimum or 4 and a half inches - 5'd be better. Could one of you boys 'n girls go measure? Sure would appreciate it. It's 86 degrees in my shop today - could be worse, eh? Thanks... MORE
Just make a tow bar. It is simple and cost next to nothing. First a piece of 1" angle iron cut to about 3.5'. then drill two holes in it at the distance part that the front bumper studs are. Also hole must be big enought for the bumper studs to fit through. Then get a 4" "U" chanel about 4' long and weld them together to make a "T". Add acouple to small straps from the ends of the angle to the "u" neer the far end. Then drill holes in the far end of the "U" chanel... MORE
Mark Don't do it the gauge is easy to remove the dash is not. Just undo the knurled nut at the back of the clamp and pop it out, the oil pipe union can be unscrewed from the engine or the back of the gauge (once popped out) the water temperature sender connection if it is into the rad (as mine is on the 66) can be a bit of a pig to remove without damaging the sender cable but if you are renewing the gauge this will not matter. Best of luck Dave (65 & 66 Sprites in... MORE
Someone buy my Sprite, don't force me to put it on eBay, I don't want to part it out. That would be sad. 210 Tranny $200, engine $200, carbs $100, shell $200, man, that would be more than what I'm asking for the whole thing. Maybe I should... YK "yucholian" 23447... MORE
G'day all Here's your chance to own a genuine piece of history. An Arkley Sprite, modified only by the complete body shell, Mazda Rotary engine, Honda Prelude gauges etc etc. But wait - there's more. According to the owner: "the radio is not connected, but it used to work." Grab it while you can. Must be a one-off. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 23416... MORE
"I am building a 1275 to the specs of my 1340 Cooper S that I had in the UK. I had the cam ground close to the 731 cam that I had in that motor. It will have a big valve head and cooper s distributor. It is .030 over. I have several leather hides and decided to cover all panels and dash with that. I put floors, lt rocker and A post piller sections back in it plus a new bonnet. (Since buying a bonnet I bought a 68 with an excellent bonnet for $400.) Oh well. All... MORE
to retain my amateur status, here goes: After jillions of mini engines, here I am building a standard motor. The end half-seals that fit the slots in the oil pan: How do they go? They don't look right to me. Thanks, David McCartney Captain Rapture 23443... MORE
"...if the tming chain goes, what can I expect?" Jason... The engine is not an "interference" motor with respect to valve/piston clearance so mechanically nothing much to worry about. It'll probably backfire a couple of times as it looses power and quits as valve timing is lost. BTW, as timing chains really wear, they usually "rattle their cage", making quite a bit of mechanical noise under there, especially to those you are approaching who are standing outside towards the front of the car. They usually last a good, long time, though. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23420... MORE
