MAIN
Engine (external)
Previous Page | Next Page
when you pull just the engine by itself, you have to lift it slightly before you can move it forwards, so that the front pulley clears the cross member (assuming you have an A series engined car, not a 1500 - the cross member is different) However, the top of the gearbox comes up against the heater ducting below the battery tray, so you have to lift a bit and pull a bit repeatedly and gradually work the thing past all the obstructions. If you pull the engine and 'box together, it's slightly easier from this respect, but you... MORE
Hi all, I am about to pull out my engine and tranny with a hoist and I know that I can either pull them together as one unit or separately. Any advice on the pros and cons of either method would be appreciated. Thanks Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 27559... MORE
Thanks, David.... I know nothing about the later spring- loaded carbs considering I never used them. Never like the idea of the needle running up against the jet...something about this that goes "against the grain" so to speak, despite the fact they meter fuel more precisely (or so I read). But, if you couldn't measure the wear at 106K, I wonder why they bother talking about it in books? Very strange 'cause that's pretty damn miniscule wear they're talkin' about. :) The latest Spridget I ever owned was a '74 who's engine came with emissions carbs but "fixed" needles.... MORE
Roger Not really given it to much thought yet, as thats a way off, but I'll probably use Finnegans Waxoil in all the box sections, and under the front bonnet lip. Incidentally, I'm close to glossing the doors and am seriously considering drilling three drain holes in the door bottom for the water to drain out - good idea? or not? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27522... MORE
Roger Well as I don't have the correct breathing equipment for two-pack, yeah it got to be cellulose! And yes, I also remember the person saying about lots of thin coats, but he was doing a motorcycle - somewhat smaller than a car! and I don't intend to spend the rest of my life rubbing down a Midget and spraying it! And you're right, its not the best weather for spraying top coats, and yes I've already had some 'blooming' but I have no choice, I have to get it done, I simply cannot afford to wait until the... MORE
G'day Chris Give it to me, give it to me!!!!!! OK, stick it on eBay. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 27509... MORE
G'day Don Slipping clutch could be a sign of worn clutch disk, or insufficent clamping pressure, or both. In my humble opinion, the only people who don't change everything (see below) are those who get their jollies from removing and replacing engines. Everything means: driven plate (disc) pressure plate release bearing bronze bush and bolt at the pivot point of the clutch releases bearing fork crankshaft spigot bush Do it right and you get to do it just once. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 27508... MORE
Hi all- Well, I'm now running the main harness. REALLY need help with layout. Car is 1973 US model. I have good diagram. What is need to see is how the factory physically laid out the harness in the engine compartment. Wish I would have taken pictures...... Anyway, any ya'll that have pictures that would help, I would be forever in your debt. Thanks. Paul "dfwip" 27512... MORE
Don First make sure that your release bearing is not being held on, leaving the clutch partially disengaged. This could be a sticky throw out arm or a problem in the slave / master cyl inder. Usually the problem is found at the clutch end. If its not this then the driven plate friction material could have worn too thin OR it has over heated due to slipping - this will result in a shiny glazed finish of the friction material. Will work ok until the engine torque required to move the vehicle (accelerating /going up hill, or with... MORE
Don, Hope it's not rude to interrupt. I have exactly the same situation in my Midge and have decided on a new clutch/throwout assembly. The clutch works fine under moderate acceleration but whenever I put my foot into it is slips badly in any gear. It also seems to get worse the longer I have the car out. Without taking the car apart I have narrowed it to two possiblities. Oil leakage or old springs. I used the original clutch from my $500 dollar buy when I installed the engine. I am reliably informed that with age they will... MORE
Thanks to everyone for the feedback. Will let you know what I find when I drop the engine. . . . When the weather permits . . . Don "Don May" 27504... MORE
Don... Usually, to the average owner, having to pull a perfectly good motor to replace a malfunctioning clutch is a PITA. Unless you are a "Clarici", it is s time consuming and/or labor/money consuming. Unless your clutch parts are basically new, I suggest you replace ALL while you are "in there" as considering the foregoing, clutch parts are cheap. Nothing like replacing a disc today, and having to go through the whole process again to replace a pressure plate or worn T/O bearing 6 mos down the road. Of course, if there is contamination within the bell housing, clutch... MORE
Chris Well don't bid on that car UNTIL YOU'VE LOOKED AT IT!!!! or I'll come over and chop off all your hair with a razor blade. And ask him what the flipping reserve is, 9 times out of 10 ebay sellers will tell you the reserve, it's in their interest isn't it? Then decide if its what you really want, if it is, stick your bid down equalling or beating the reserve about 10 mins before the auction ends. Talking of which thanks for the offer of a haircut, nice trim please, ears uncovered. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27472... MORE
From: Robert D. Gardner [mailto: rdgard@... ] Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 12:33 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] NO LBC-SPAM I don't know about these things, but does anyone know if it would help if we just hit reply to each spam and typed some gibberish, (i.e. a;lkajsdhfpoiuashre;ouiahsef) and hit send? If they got it back would that help block up their system? Or is some other way be a problem for them? I have been taking spam faxes and on the bottom of the fax is says to call a number if you want to opt out... MORE
Duncan You're most welcome, I'm just sorry I can't be of more help. I have quite a lot of old SU literature here, courtesy of an old 'motor-racing' friend of mine who many years ago had a tuning shop, but as many of us do, never threw anything out! He's now passed most of that information onto me now, I have a whole host of information relating to Solex carbs! If I do come across anything else that may be of interest to you, naturally I'll let you know. It is an interesting question though, if the Carbs were... MORE
While contemplating various 5 speed conversions, engine mods etc etc I had fall into my lap today a complete 87 Toyota Corolla GTS, that's the 1600cc twin cam and 5 speed RWD car . I did find one web site http://www.team.net/www/mg/tech/midget/engswapa.html that describes the transplant of a 4T motor, which is very similar but not of a 4A swap .. Anyone with any first hand experience and or URLs of this swap . ? Oh and for the purists out there, if a 5 speed Japanese transmission is an acceptable improvement how can the whole doggoned drive line not... MORE
Chris That 'vision in green' looks far too nice for you, I thought you were looking for one that needed a little work? ;) Seriously though it looks good, nice straight body, nice bright shiny paintwork, sills painted the correct colour black this time, wire wheels look in good condition, useful extras - boot rack and roll over bar and most importantly it looks like it been cared for and looked after. I'd question the total mileage of 14,000 miles, or is that the mileage on the new unleaded reconditioned engine? The seller is also throwing in a new... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 5:27 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: SU Question Duncan You're most welcome, I'm just sorry I can't be of more help. I have quite a lot of old SU literature here, courtesy of an old 'motor-racing' friend of mine who many years ago had a tuning shop, but as many of us do, never threw anything out! He's now passed most of that information onto me now, I have a whole host of information relating to Solex carbs! If I do come across anything else that may be... MORE
I don't know about these things, but does anyone know if it would help if we just hit reply to each spam and typed some gibberish, (i.e. a;lkajsdhfpoiuashre;ouiahsef) and hit send? If they got it back would that help block up their system? Or is some other way be a problem for them? I have been taking spam faxes and on the bottom of the fax is says to call a number if you want to opt out of the faxes. Some of them also add the service of adding a phone number if you want to be included... MORE
Duncan I'm not really sure either, but I think it's by 'application' ie what car they were fitted to. eg AUD136 was fitted to the Midget MkII, 1098, 1964 and AH Sprite MKIII 1963/4 and MKIII, 1968/9 Needle sizes were RICH H6, STD AN, Weak GG Blue Spring Colour AUD266 was fitted to the Midget MkIII, 1275 USA spec 1968 Needle sizes were STD AN, Blue Spring AUD328 was fitted to the Midget MKIII, 1275 USA spec, 1968/9 Needle sizes were STD AAC, Blue Spring From what I can tell all the HS2 throttle sizes were 1/1/4. All info... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 5:46 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: SU Question Duncan I'm not really sure either, but I think it's by 'application' ie what car they were fitted to. eg AUD136 was fitted to the Midget MkII, 1098, 1964 and AH Sprite MKIII 1963/4 and MKIII, 1968/9 Needle sizes were RICH H6, STD AN, Weak GG Blue Spring Colour AUD266 was fitted to the Midget MkIII, 1275 USA spec 1968 Needle sizes were STD AN, Blue Spring AUD328 was fitted to the Midget MKIII, 1275 USA spec, 1968/9 Needle sizes... MORE
Jim... Since you've gone with an Ignitor (PerTronix?) why not go with the same (PerTronix) wires. Assume (ass-u-me) you are using one of their coils as well? Otherwise, Accel, NGK, Magnecor, etc. are available at performance speed shops. Go with a metal conductor type like the original Lucas "Bumblebee" performance wire more or less, in 7 or 8mm depending upon whether you choose to use the stock Lucas resistor tips. If you really want to go crazy with wires and want something really wild and very well insulated (and "built")....go Nology Hot Wires. Vizard dynoed these and found they... MORE
Before I install the wrong spark plugs and poke a hole in the top of a piston or two, I thought I better get some professional help from the group. I've installed the Ignitor and a 40K coil, now I don't know what range plug to install. I'm equally unsure about the plug wires. The other up-grades to this engine are a Kent 266 cam, bored 20 over and fully balanced with an aluminum flywheel. What combination of spark plugs and wires would be best suited to this engine. TIA Jim C 73 Midget 67 MGB "klutterbutt92530" 27424... MORE
Thanks to Pilot Rob, Duncan, and David C. for responses. To answer collectively, fuel is being fed to the carb. Last time running wasn't too long ago. I removed the brake MC for resleeving/rebuild at the time, and decided then to address the pedal box area corrosion. I have not yet tried, as Duncan suggested, to hold No1 wire close to the block (3/8") and check for a spark. Since I haven't mucked with anything near the plugs/dizzy/carb, suspect lack of juice to the plugs is not the issue. I'm going to swap out the coil to see if... MORE
From: Pete Skalski [mailto: pskalski@... ] Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 7:41 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: 1500 - Low voltage troubleshooting - Help Thanks to Pilot Rob, Duncan, and David C. for responses. To answer collectively, fuel is being fed to the carb. Last time running wasn't too long ago. I removed the brake MC for resleeving/rebuild at the time, and decided then to address the pedal box area corrosion. I have not yet tried, as Duncan suggested, to hold No1 wire close to the block (3/8") and check for a spark. Since I haven't mucked with... MORE
