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Just checked my Haynes which is what I'd have followed during my rebuild. No specific order to retightening but what it does day is do the bolts up finger tight then rotate the crankshaft a few revolutions before torqueing down. The other thing to check is that you don't have any grit under the shells. However as all is fine with the old TWs then it sounds like the only problem is the new TWs are a bit thick. When I rebuilt my 1275 I didn't replace the TWs, how do the old ones look? Running the car like... MORE
When I rebuilt my 1275 I didn't replace the TWs, how do the old ones look? Running the car like that may overheat those new TWs and they might finish up in a worse state than your known good ones. Jim, Sounds way too tight, but this isn't a "seat of the pants' thing. You need a dial gauge and a magnet stand to check end float. You need to exert force in both directions and see what the dial gauge reads. From memory, I think .003 is the upper limit, but check the specs first.It 's possible for... MORE
I'm in the process of rebuilding my motor(1275+). I had the crank lightened (wedged,-2lbs), balanced and polished during it's stay at the machine shop. The block was cleaned and new main bearing were installed. When I test fit the caps, with 40lbs torque but without the Thrust Washers, the crank turned smoothly with little effort (I used assembly lube). I removed all the caps and then reinstalled them with new Thrust Washers from VB; now the crank needs about thirty pounds (approx) of force to start it rotating. It still moves smoothly but requires some effort. There is no... MORE
Everything is ready to start the engine but no fuel! Arrgh! I must have screwed up when I sealed my tank! I must have sealed the outlet pipe shut. I remember someone having done the same and fixed it. I don't remember what the fix was, must be old age! I've tried poking a piece of 1/8 inch wire down the fitting but not sure if I've reached the offending blockage. Thanks for the help. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25433... MORE
Naw. It would be nearly impossible to have too much oil from the rocker assy, and the movement of the push rods (which move somewhat sideways as well as up and down) would prevent the holes from plugging up. What you've got is excessive crankcase pressure, which prevents the oil draining back into the sump. Since the engine sat for a long time, may have multiple broken piston rings, possibly a broken piston. Have a compression test done. If compression is good, then the problem is plugged up or disconnected crankcase ventilation system. With the oil fill cap removed,... MORE
Hi, Bill.... Jegs, Summit or Racer Wholesale offer some nice 4 point systems with 3" webbing that really holds you in. These are usually top brands like Simpson. They sell the mounting kits as well. The Spridget is small inside so get "pull up" types rather than "pull downs" when it comes to the seat belts (it they still offer a choice in this respect) whether you order/use the shoulder belts or not. As you already know....VB, Moss or any of the other usual suspects for the stock OEM type stuff. "Performance shops" also carry generic types that will... MORE
Jeff Holmes states: "Naw" Could be, Jeff. But I know a guy who raced a Spridget up at Lime Rock that had the exact problem I speak of....now this isn't a racing application as far as we know...but we don't know otherwise either....this could be a street tuned motor for all we know...lister didn't say and probably doesn't know.... excessive rocker clearances with otherwise good bearing clearances reasonably good oil pressure which could flood the valve area in a hearbeat. That's why I asked this lister if he had oil going by the lower engine seals and out the... MORE
Right on, John... This was Biff Jones idea as well....from the pictures on your site, it's obvious these motorcycle mirrors fit right in with the Sprite's looks and configuation. They're there, but they don't "stick out"....they go with the lines of the car....you don't "see" them. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25411... MORE
G'day mate. After deliberating for a long time about the need for extra mirrors - and I think there is one - I was told about a beautiful set of mirrors that are made for Harley Davidson motorcycles. They bolt onto the rear windscreen bolt, just as they come out of the packet. I've uploaded some photos into the file called "John's Bugeye" in the photo section of the website. The pro's - they work well, they look the part, they don't get into the road of the door, they bolt straight on, no drilling or modifications are needed,... MORE
Drag, Don May....non-turning T/O bearing ...."bearing" upon pressure plate. You will also notice with the stock carbon throw-out bearing that the starter will turn the engine over faster if the clutch is not depressed during the start, except in real cold weather when the drag of extremely thick transmission oil causes more drag than the throwout bearing/pressure plate drag situation. Then...start with the clutch pedal depressed of course Much less drag with "roller" types now available in place of original carbon types. The "rollers" allow the T/O bearing face to turn (less drag) as it engages the pressure plate....... MORE
Hi, Kevin... You will eventually hear from a lot of others on this I'm sure, in time. If the oil pressure is good (10psi or more at idle and about 60psi running at 3,000 rpm or better), two things come immediately to mind, considering it's coming out the oil filler hole and not out between the block/head. 1. excessive clearances in the rocker system between bush/shaft and/or 2. larger than normal pushrods (aftermarket "performance") which may be slowing oil flow back down into the crankcase as these can be thicker in diameter than stock. I am assuming the engine... MORE
Kevin. When the oil starts to puke out of the valve cover oil filler cap, quickly take off the cap and check for two things. First see it the valve cover is actually full or almost full of oil and bubbles are causing the oil popping out or check for too much positive crank case pressure by putting your hand over the open oil filler hole and sealing it up for about 30 seconds and lifting your palm. Do you get a gigantic "WHOOSH" of pressure or just a little "fiffft" of pressure. Then report back to the LBC... MORE
Think I have solved this and the problem I had shifting into first and reverse . . . before pulling the engine and trans to check I thought I would at least try one of the longer push rods, you know those POs have welded on an extra length to put off installing a new throw out bearing. The one I had from my parts car had only about an eight of an inch longer weld on the end than the stock one. Once I installed it all is working now, smooth shifting is back and shifting into first... MORE
Hi, Tim.... I was in the same predicament when I picked up my BE. Like you, I hate drilling through the car's panels and creating holes where there were none. On my PO'd '74 Spridget the holes were already there and a blacked out Baby Turbo went beautifully with my two-tone semi-gloss black and metallic medium blue Maaco paint scheme! But like your car, the BE had no side mirror to begin with. So what I did was have fabricated a mounting plate for a spun aluminum Raydot, encompassing two holes drilled in the plate which utilized the already... MORE
"the 45 has always had a flat spot" Well, a "tendency" toward this for sure, though. Not mine! :) It came with the Weber 6" long intake manifold to begin with, and the length of the intake manifold makes all sorts of difference to the whole application in all sorts of ways. Generally speaking, longer is better for the low end. It also came with the smaller 3.5 aux. venturi's unlike some other kits which come with larger 4.5's, the smaller aux. venturi allowing earlier commencement of flow from the main system during acceleration, thus shortening the period of... MORE
You'll have to just take a looksee. Accident damage? Rusted out? Best scenario - the shock mounting bolts are loose. allowing the wheel to tip inward. Could be rotted out shock rubber bushes. Look for the simple and cheap first. Good luck. "Jeffrey Holmes" 25347... MORE
Well it's about time. My 71 MG is back and refurbed. While it was apart for a new clutch disc, why not put a Datsun 5 speed in it? 266 cam, lite lifters, right springs, new shells on the still-standard crank, Cooper S 163 head with rimflows and ported, 45DCOE, and LCB, with a Kenlowe to cut cooling losses. Cooper S dizzy. I want a merit badge for making the Rivergate kit work. It is not easy for one who must follow directions literally. Much more difficult than it needs to be, for me, anyway. I know many listers... MORE
I think its early 70's and has no title it has a Fiat engine. Under $650 dollers, all there. "ooohaynow1" 25304... MORE
20.14 Exhaust Emission System. The owner or operator of any new motor vehicle or new motor vehicle engine beginning with the model year 1968 equipped with an exhaust emission system shall maintain the exhaust emission system in good operable condition and shall use it at all times that the motor vehicle or motor vehicle engine is operated. The owner or oper- ator of the motor vehicle or motor vehicle engine shall not remove or intentionally make inoperable within the state of Texas the exhaust emission system or any part thereof, except where the purpose of removal of the exhaust... MORE
CA Smog check exemptions: "Some vehicles are exempt from the Smog Check program All 30 and older model-year vehicles are exempt from all aspects of the Smog Check program, but owners of these vehicles are required by law to keep their emissions systems intact. Vehicles built in 1974 for the 1975 model-year are 1975 vehicles and must be tested accordingly. Additionally, vehicles with diesel engines, vehicles with two-cycle engines, vehicles with engines smaller than 50 cubic inches of displacement, electric vehicles, and motorcycles are exempt from the Smog Check program." However in practice vehicles over 30 years old are... MORE
I just returned from "Fallfest", Moss Motors' show held behind their NJ warehouse. I went as a spectator only as I wimped out on taking my Midget out on a rainy day! Forty or so people did show an LBC (200 last year). Here is a picture that shows the scene... http://www.1978mgmidget.com/Fallfest_at_Moss_Motors_2003.jpg You will need to scroll left and right to see the whole thing, as the picture is W - I - D- E, about 2500 pixels. If the picture appears small, at the top of your screen, point your cursor at the lower-right corner of the picture... MORE
need to widen the tunnel by about 1". Easy with a scissor jack. need to cut out the cross member and replace with a similar steel box section immediately below the floor pan, either welded or bolted in place. A quick and easy modification. Guy "Guy Weller" 25232... MORE
"Now that your older (like me) you just worry more about that stuff" "What? Me worry?" (courtesy...Alfred E. Nueman) Whadya mean, Jeff?! Older? Yes, BUT...wiser!! And worrying far less. Why, you ask? 'Cause I've learned how to get more bang for the buck while "conserving" to the extent possible considering the same (more or less) perfomance level. What you say is true about the "A" series being bulletproof though, most especially the 1275 variants. Good motors. And if you're a Frank Clarici you needn't worry about mechanicals, etc. at all! :) I got 80K+ miles out of my Vizardized... MORE
Guy W. Slower traffic staying right is the general idea but in moderate+ traffic it doesn't always work that way and it can become more a general free for all, most especially when 18 wheelers are thrown into the mix. This is theory which works until you come upon an entranceway with many cars merging, then you may find yourself forced into the middle lane in a situation wherein the traffic flow in the middle lane is doing 70 and you lack the power to merge left easily into THAT flow to make room in the right lane for... MORE
I dunno...good question I can not ever remember wearing one out in terms of having to pull the motor to replace one! Always got replaced though, whenever the motor was pulled for work. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25229... MORE
