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"VIN Plate" Thank you, Nigel, Roger, etc.! I've never seen an oval one and on my PO'd '74 it was a long rect. plate up by the left corner of the windshield inside the car. OK..."normal"....rect. plate in the engine compartment mounted on a "frame rail" beneath the rear carb. :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28907... MORE
Maybe he should try starting the engine? "Guy Weller" 28895... MORE
My cuz in Irving called me this morning. He is having trouble with his 97 F150 6 cylinder 300CID....it is underheating. It will barely move the needle off cool, and after a while, gets even cooler! I suggested the thermostat, unchanged in 140,000 miles might be stuck open...but would it get more open (opener?) as the engine warmed up? What is normal? Any suggestions besides change the thermostat? Robert Houston COP QUOTES "Someone, somewhere is practicing. If you're not, and someday, if you should meet, you will lose." "Shoot them until they think they're dead." "I don't believe they... MORE
It may be the gage. Do the thermostat, or at least check it. Pull it out and put in a pan of cold water on the stove and bring to boil. It should open around 160 or 180 degrees. Then either check water temp against gage with a thermomator ( I use an instant read cooking thermometer) (Maybe that is why I am not married any more lolol) or use the shade tree mechanics method. 100 - 130 degrees. Hot to touch but can hold hand on hose for about 10 seconds. 130 - 150 degrees Hotter, can hold... MORE
Hi folks! I have just purchased a 1977 MG Midget 1500 in what I can only describe as 'tired' condition. Although it has an MOT it does have a few faults, and as I am not in the least bit mechanically minded I need some advice as to what repair is required. There is a water leak coming from the engine in quite a steady stream from somewhere at the top of the engine below the head: it is a bit difficult to see exactly where as it is obscured by the manifold and carbs.The water temperature gauge on... MORE
Son and the car are in Cincinnati. Body is good, little rust, no collision damage. We took the 1275 and the trany out to inspect, and all seems o.k. Things I think it would need are : Engine gasket set, clutch and slave, Motor mounts, battery and a soft top. If I where nearer I would have had it on the road. We have had it for about a year with no procross except the inspection. He was going to do the body work first and paint, I was more intrested in getting it running, for fun, then paint... MORE
Hi all,l want to fit a pair of speakers in my sprite 67,was going to fit them under the seats but am now thinking of putting them in pods on the rear heel board behind the seats,yes l no they was never made like that but this is a restored car with engine mods etc and is going to be used and not for showing,what do you think please. regards wes "wesley5060" 28818... MORE
Duncan How did it go with sandblasting the engine bay on your car? What media did you use? I am getting ready to undertake the same job. I was also going to use the blaster on the outside of the panels, doors, wings, etc but I was thinking of using plastic beads for that. Have/can you use them in the pressureized sand blaster? Any info is welcome Thanks Mike mk2sprite@... 28817... MORE
Having just broke two propshafts on a test rig and having to do full risk assesment on the items I can say that..... If you completely dissasmble the propshaft then make sure you mark it up and reassemble everything in the same orientation. Most important is that two pins on the Hookes Joints at each end of the shaft are exactly in the same plane. Because of the spline teeth in the sliding part there is only one possible to way to assemble this correctly. (possibly 180 degrees out, but only if the spline has an even Nr of... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint... MORE
Schmidty on the mgbbs spridget technical board is in need of a 1500 engine. He wants to find one locally. I know nothing else, except that there are some Texans on this list. If one of you has a suggestion, maybe you could spring over there and post a note. The thread is titled "engine" Here is the URL: http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&mode=thread&access=&subject=97&source=T&thread 0401290321322738 I know some of your email clients will chop that URL, but I think you can find it. Thanks, in advance "Trevor J." 28805... MORE
Nigel, Excellent Expert Explanation The "guide coat" thing I think about like this... The surface to be sprayed should be flat, concave, or convex, but should not have dimples, hollows or high spots. Spraying a very thin dusting coat of a contrasting colour at first just changes the colour of the panel, but as you then flatten off with paper around a flat block it has the effect of removing the guide colour from all the peaks and high spots. The valleys and low spots remain untouched by the flat block show they show up with the contrasting colour.... MORE
Roger I used a company called Brown Brothers, who I believe are part of the Partco group. They're based down in Guildford, but I think they have other outlets all over the country. They're primarily an auto-factor for the Motor Trade and do a lot more than paint. The paint I used was brand named Tetrosyl, they also do ICI Autopaints, but as that works out at about 20% more expensive than Tetrosyl I used Tetrosyl ;) I also got an 'own-brand' 2.5L tub of filler from them for about 15 quid I think it was, when you consider... MORE
Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint fully harden (4-5 weeks) then use a gentle rubbing compound on it and a rotary buffer. Regarding etch primer,... MORE
Yes, I have a standard Small British Garage (SBG) and have removed two rear axles and suspension in one go. Putting back together will probably as ind ividual parts though. As far as I can remember, I placed a wheelable trolle y jack under the diff housing I put axle stands with about 9" square 1/2" ply between the stand and floor pan (to spread the load) on either side of the car, under the rear bulkhead. I remember having to move these though, b ut at which stage of the operation me memory fails me It will become... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint... MORE
Nigel- Raised the back end up about four inches! And I confirmed that I did in fact have the 1275 springs and NOT the 1500. The car looked really stupid. Everyone that saw it laughed! Paul "dfwip" 28771... MORE
Yep, Nigel, I do know what the axle weight is like, and it is certainly less without the springs attached, and easier to handle. Since it is removed from the springs by simply undoing 4 U-bolts it really is easier to remove seperately from the springs. I have done the job both ways, more than once and always without help. Far and away the most important aspect is that the shell is properly supported in either case. I think we all at least agree on that point! Guy "Guy Weller" 28754... MORE
Guy I don't know you know, that axles pretty heavy for one person to handle on their own, specially as its an awkward SOB to get to. You're also assuming that those nuts and bolts will come off nice and easy - never the case! If I had, had the space id have rolled the whole assembly out as one unit, and dismantled it off the car - much easier. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 28750... MORE
Duncan I'm not that familiar with the term 'lacquer' as far as I'm aware it covers pretty much all car paints, as they're all a form of lacquer. What I think you mean is Nitro-celullose Laqcuer, commonly referred to as just 'cellulose' and if you do mean this then yes, thats pretty much your only option for spraying at home. (some bright spark trying to be clever will probably come up with alternatives, but in practical terms 'cellulose' is your only option for spraying at home). The other commonly used paint in the auto industry, in fact its the... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 5:50 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not that familiar with the term 'lacquer' as far as I'm aware it covers pretty much all car paints, as they're all a form of lacquer. What I think you mean is Nitro-celullose Laqcuer, commonly referred to as just 'cellulose' and if you do mean this then yes, thats pretty much your only option for spraying at home. (some bright spark trying to be clever will probably come up with alternatives, but in practical terms 'cellulose' is your... MORE
Although it was me who said mark the flange it was only 'cos that is what the books tell one to do. I never bother. The bolt positions are such that there are two positions it will fit, and two that it will not.. You don't find out untill you come to install bolt#2, but it is no great hassle. I don't think ballance is effected in any way. Guy "Guy Weller" 28717... MORE
I am removing the roll up window mechanisms and 1/4 lights from a 72 Midget for a project I am working on and discovered just how heavy they are . . . a whopping 39 lbs each. Stripped except for the lock mechanism only 14 lbs each. Fifty less pounds for the engine to push around . . . and elbow room. Don "Don May" 28686... MORE
G'day guys All this discussion on crunching clutches just woke up my tired brain to something I had forgotten. The diaphram clutch as fitted to 1275cc and 1500cc cars is very sensitive to the amount of travel. They actually need LESS travel to release than the earlier spring clutch. That's one of the reasons the slave cylinder is 1" and not 7/8". Larger bore = less travel. If you have TOO MUCH travel at the clutch end, the diaphram plate will go over-centre, and crush the driven plate back onto the flywheel. I have seen this happen a few... MORE
Hmmmmm... Let's see. Did you assemble this thing yourself? Was the clutch disc new? The release bearing? Did you inspect the condition of the pressure plate and flywheel? Might be some sort of clue there. Even if there were a hydraulic fault which is causing incomplete release, there shouldn't be a horrible grinding sound. A partially released clutch shouldn't make any noise. I'm still betting on the foreign object. Could be a piece of clutch lining, a lining rivet, a loose bolt, almost anything. You could jack the car up, remove the rubber plug and see whether you can... MORE
