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"Maybe condensation...." Absolutely!! As previously mentioned... a normal part of start up from cold in the morning, most definitely with a car left outside overnight, and most definitely in cool, damp weather. Problem is, I'm "over here", Guy Weller is "over there" and Jens is somewhere else! So we can't see what Jens is looking at under these circumstances in terms of "extent". Is it normal, or "abe normal" (courtesy, "Young Frankenstein":) It sounds abnormal considering it happens every morning to a great extent, whether the ambient air is "dry" or "wet". The engine warms up after a couple... MORE
"I think it's time for a thorough check-up here" Good for you, Jens. Exactly right my friend. There is something called a "chain" (of events) which leads sailors/boats & pilots/airplanes, drivers/cars to disaster. Wise men "move" on the "second event", drop back and take an objective "look" and go to Plan B when Plan A starts going to hell for whatever reasons. You have to be aware of a "chain" developing so you can "change the plan" to break that "chain" and "avoid" a major problem. Event #1... While a PITA, the not fully sealing head gasket can be... MORE
Well... I'll tell you Jens. It sounds like the head gasket hasn't taken completely. And obviously, you have a coolant leak in engine compartment in any event. This must be found and fixed. It may be leaking from between the head and block (which you already expect) when the cooling system is fully pressurized, further indicating head gasket sealing problems. Sounds to me that once you warm it up, the head gasket seals more fully as parts swell due to heat. So the whitish/gray smoke disappears accordingly. Head Gasket: I don't think it's fully taken. Nothing to lose by... MORE
Blackish/Grey you say? Well ALLRIGHTY THEN, Jens...it's not oil!! :):) Oil is bluish in color and "stays" in the air. and....the exhaust definitely smells of burning oil (and not unburnt gasoline). Whitish/grey (or gray) is water which is a byproduct of combustion and along with condensation within the exhaust system is produced most abundantly when a "cold" motor (overnight sit, fr'instance) is initially fired up, most definitely on those cool, humid mornings when it tends to stay in the air rather than more immediately evaporate as it does in "drier" air. Black is definitely unburnt gasoline which we get... MORE
Just as a matter of interest, guys, I've got a 1500 motor out of the car at the moment and have replaced big-ends/mains/thrusts and noticed that the cam lobe which operates the mechanical fuel pump is worn right away! The motor itself has only done about 40000 miles and someone had stuck a electric pump on it, probably believing it had failed. It actually works fine in your hand, but the cam doesn't operate it! Just a thought before making a decision. Mark. "spritelychap" 32026... MORE
?I figured I would seek the advice of those who have been there and Never seen a single DCOE setupon any 4 cylider engine with 4 inlet ports in the head!. The A_sereis normally has only one DCOE dues to a restriction in the head design that means that each pair of cylinders shares and inlet port, the only two intel ports, and thus no real point in using two DCOE carbs. The 1500 engine does not suffer this limitaion. Triumph tume and lawerence tune in the UK will sell you a twin DCOE mainfold for this engine. However... MORE
Jeff I could probably scan the pages for you, but to be honest, it's such a good book - its worth getting your own copy or at least tracking one down in the local library. Here are the details - Tuning BL's A Series Engine David Vizard Published by Haynes Motoring Group ISBN 0-85429-732-4 Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 31943... MORE
It comes from a very good book written by David Vizard. It is called "Tuning the A-series Engine." A worthwhile addition to your library Nelson 62 Sprite in progress "Nelson Wittstock" 31941... MORE
Jens Yep! Pretty much what I've been saying, not only is the twin 1.5 SU setup better on the lower rev ranges than the DCOE, they're easier to set up and maintain, but hey no one ever listens to me ;) Where a bit of extra whooomph is needed on an uprated engine, I don't dispute the DCOE's come into a class of their own, but not on unmodified engines. "amukdigiphoto" 31938... MORE
Any body in the uk no of anyone in need of a 1500 engine complete with carbs etc engine had done 50000 miles. ( kent ) regards wes "wesley5060" 31936... MORE
Hi all,any one in the uk no of anyone in need of a 1500 engine complete with box/carbs etc =A3100 ( kent ) engine had done 50000 miles. regards wes "wesley5060" 31935... MORE
Does anyone know of a better valve cover gasket available than the tradional cork ones? I've heard of reusable silicon ones available for Triumphs. Curt "cfisher1a" 31923... MORE
Hi list, I have huffaker spec 1 1/4" HS2's on my 948 competion motor. When I look in the air rams I see a fountain of un-atomized fuel coming up around the needle of the front carb while running. No fuel is visible when looking in the rear carb. I'm guessing the front float bowl needle is not shutting off and pressure is building up and forcing the fuel in the carb. I have a holley pressure regulater that I think I have adjusted to the minimum pressure (about 1 psi) Is this likely the cause? (I have new... MORE
My reasoning for going with a DCOE is for the following: 1. It was originally fed by a Zenith Stromberg carb for the 1500 midgets. I'm doing a complete restoration on the car, however, between the engine that came with the car (with a thrown rod) and the one I purchased to rebuild, neither came with a carburetor or a distributor. 2. I want to get rid of the zenith stromberg =) The engine is a basic 1500 engine. Stock cam in it, 9:1 compression and .020" overbore from the rebuild. Currently no head porting or anything done to... MORE
Guy Aha! That may explain it then, but I noticed how the original poster of this query totally ignored my comment ! LOL Even if it does have a Stromberg - I still feel it would be better to slap on some twin SU's than go to the bother of a DCOE. Good carbs they are, no doubt about it, but I fail to see any benefit at all of fitting one to a bog standard 1500, specially when you consider how tricky they are to set up. People are quick to dismiss the twin SU setup, but they're... MORE
Guy Weller writes "...but a DCOE will certainly be better than that!" (single Stromberg) Absolutomundorino. That Stromberg with it's autochoke strikes me as a GIANT PITA. Of course, teamed with a catalytic converter mounted in the engine compartment, nothing within stands much of a chance in any event! :):) What a lousy "system". Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31900... MORE
Dear Listers, All this fuel pump talk has got me indecisive. Had to have the car towed home after the mechanical pump crapped out with under 1500 miles on it. I now have the motor out for clutch replacement and vacillating between buying a new mechanical or getting a $40 Warburg electronic and fitting that. Besides the usual concerns I'm also installing twin SU's to replace the ace Stromberg. The larget twin fuel bowls are a concern or am I being iggerant? Advice and comments are kindly solicited Rob C 75 Midget being redone right..... I hope. Webfoot Leisure.com... MORE
Jim My bushings came from Moss, and yes they're pretty tricky to fit. I ended up widening out the two areas the ends of the wishbone go into on the frame, putting one bush into each inside of the wishbone arm, fitting the arms to the frame then pushing through the second bushing through the hole in the frame - then the bolts. Seemed to work after some jiggling about. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 31873... MORE
Chris Me being me, and being unlike anyone else on here, I'm not going to give you the information you want, but simply ask you why you're thinking of putting on a DCOE in the first place? Is your 1500 a real firebreather needing a lot more air than a standard engine? If it isn't, to be honest, I can't see the point of installing a DCOE on a standard 1500, you won't see hardly any benefit at all until you reach the very highest BHP the engine is putting out. And how often do you actually drive the... MORE
Bob... Larger bowls are of no concern. Pump doesn't care unless the engine is highly tuned and than one can use a higher pressure (output) with a pressure reg. I find the low pressure (LP) Facet (4psi+-) mounted in the rear in place of the SU... works fine without a pressure regulator on SU's. With my PO'd "Vizardized" 1340 (90HP at the rear wheels) I used the HP Facet (6-8psi) with a pressure reg. set to 2.5psi for a 45DCOE. This engine went to 7k and was mostly used between 3500-4000rpm on the highway. It was also capable of... MORE
Hey Chris (and Nigel!:).... Don't Brit 1500's come with the twin 1.5 SU set-up? If so Chris, why would you want to convert to a 45DCOE on a (assuming, here) stock 1500 motor? Are the SU's clapped out an in need of overhaul? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31877... MORE
I used one for a while instead of a standard SU electric pump on my 1275. It worked fine and I can't remember why I changed back, but it was probably something to do with not being able to dismantle the electronic one if ever anything was to go wrong. Incidentally, the Mechspec 'Buy It Now' price of U$70 + 18 shipping seems a bit steep to me - even Mo$$ list a pump for the equivalent of $80. David "David Jacobs" 31863... MORE
Well, Jens...lot of variables here including outside air temp and the clearances to which the engine was built. Mineral oils are where it's at for break- in, Jens. Synthetics (or partial synthetic) should not be used as they reduce rather than promote, fricition "Breaking in" means friction between parts and you'll get a lot LESS of this with the more "slippery" synthetic and partial synthetics. Mineral oils aren't as slippery so friction would he higher, thus accelerating the break-in process. Most likely, since you've switched to mineral oil, the break-in process is actually continuing and not really over, miles... MORE
Hi Nelson, I have some AC rebuild kits for the mechanical pump. NOS, but who knows how fresh and good they are. Contact me off list if you're interested Another way of going and this is something my Morris friends do but for another reason. The Morris pump is mounted on the firewall in full view of anyone wanting to see it. Some want to have a pristine, all original looking engine bay, but prefer some reliability. So they mount an electronic Facet/Purolator fuel pump near the fuel tank and leave the old pump in the engine compartment with... MORE
I plan to throw out my mechanical fuel pump on my 62 948 engine and replace it with an electronic pump. This pump model on e-bay ( http://tinyurl.com/2l72d ) has been there a number of times but I wonder if it would be a satisfactory substitute for the SU solid state version. Any thoughts? I figure I'd worry about getting mounting brackets later. Nelson "witstock7" 31861... MORE
