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any gear oil in it. any advise on this is welcome. I have restored many many cars in my time including lots of engine rebuilds, but have never had to tear into a tranny. sounds like these are pretty easy though. or if someone happens to have a good used laying around let me know. that way I can get on the road for this summer. otherwise it will probably be a winter project for me. I'm in CO by the way thanks in advance mike "mblotz" 37824... MORE
what size engine. Makes looking for one a lot easier. Exhaust manifold for 73-74 1275 engine, only fitted for short time and bolt exhaust fixing rather than clamp. Can't seem to find one anywhere......... "Bruce" 37821... MORE
G'day Bruce If you want to go bigger than +.060" but don't want to go to 73.5mm, I have new 73mm pistons (with rings and pins). You can see them here: www.SpriteParts.com.au/shop.htm And give us a clue - what's a 12G1591 manifold - inlet or exhaust, what size engine. Makes looking for one a lot easier. avagoodday Colin "Colin Dodds" 37807... MORE
You building a "Town/Country" or "Highway" driver, Bruce? ALL ELSE BEING EQUAL..... "60"overbore will pull up low end torque (increases compression ratio) whilst increasing "revability" (more "square" bore/stroke numbers) As can be seen, the foregoing improvement lends itself automatically to a "hairier" cam quite nicely (without compromising the low end). The question is "how hairy" for your specific application? Thus, the initi al question at the top of the page, Bruce. Vizard's book contains an excellent description of many "grinds". For town/country, the numbers associated with an MD266 give a nice general improvement all-around with slight emphasis on mid-rang... MORE
From: fjohnson@... To: jimj@... Sent: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 21:17:51 +0100 Subject: MG ownership message This email was created on Thursday 07th July 2005 at 21:17:51 GMT from the MG enthusiasts web site at http://www.british-cars.co.uk Member 'Butch2' who is Butch W Johnson sent the following message to you: ************************************************************************ Dear MG Enthusiast, Dear J.R. great last name!! I am in Oswego, KS near Joplin and I have a 19 79 MG Midget that I have resored for my wife. I recently had a bearing proble m and have decided to do a complete rebuild. My question is do you... MORE
Bruce, Just completed an "as original as possible" rebuild onto a Heritage shell - 700 miles later and nothing has fallen off yet. My original but tired 1275 was rebuilt by me - with the aim of extracting a few more HP and some extra torque 2500 - 6000 rpm. My spec is a.. 020" rebore (1293 cc) b.. 9.75 :1 CR pistons c.. MG Metro large valve cylinder head with mild port and polish d.. MG Metro single HIF44 carb "Vizarded" (butterfly knife-edged, spindle trimmed and waisted, screws trimmed and Loctited, bridge lowered) e.. Titan Motorsport inlet manifold,... MORE
They all (A series) point slightly forwards. I suspect the line drawing for the clamp type in parts catalogues originally came from an existing drawing for another car, possibly Morris Minor or A30? If you can get hold of the flanged type, it makes a much better joint and is the correct type for your '74. It would have been tapped for studs not drilled for bolts if it is from a UK car, but it's highly likely the threads will be stripped, so would either need to be welded and redrilled/tapped or larger size studs fitted anyway. (I... MORE
I need to replace the exhaust manifold on my 74 Midget and although I see several come up on ebay they are different from the two types listed in the manuals for the midget. They all seem to face forward with a clamp type fixing while all the catalogues and pics I have seen show either a rear facing clamp or forward facing bolt fixing. Is there another type or are they from a different car? "Bruce" 37776... MORE
Hi all, just bought a complete but knackered 1275 74 model and am starting to look at what I am going to do with it mechanically (apart from the necessary reshell) I bought book on A series tuning as I have only rebuilt MGB engines before and have decided that althogh I want to keep the car as original as possible the air filters and exhaust manifold were non standard so these will be replaced with K&N's plus a complete stainless exhaust and manifold. These parts seem to be the only non original parts on the whole car. Is... MORE
Sorry Paul It's a 1275cc series "A" Spridget engine with +.040" pistons. Thanks for your interest. jt Mmmmmm! John, can you provide a clue about what engine these rings are for? jwtravers@... 37774... MORE
Mmmmmm! John, can you provide a clue about what engine these rings are for? Chevy Nova? Ford Fiasco? Dell Computer? Spridget with an 803 engine? Come on John, help us out! Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 37773... MORE
In trouble I have a pressing need for an oversize top ring for a +.040 over piston. This would be for a quick fix for a screwed up top groove in one of my pistons. The engine needs to get new pistons as soon as I can decide which way to go. .060 over or sleeves. But I have an event commimg up so I'de like to reg this one up for it. Looking for a set of +.040 top rings that are about .066" thick X .121" deep. I'm told that thicker rings were a commen fix years... MORE
FW: photosG'day guys Here is a great site with some fantastic motor racing photos. Oz biassed, but great stuff. avagoodday Colin http://www.aussieroadracing.homestead.com "Colin Dodds" 37769... MORE
I'm selling my AH Sprite MKII and all the bits I've built up over the 45 years of ownership. Spare 948cc spare smooth case gearbox etc. Spare Diff (long ratio) etc. The car is in Chester UK and fully taxed & MOT'd rallied two weeks ago and came 3rd in class on the HRCR Leukaemia rally. All metal, no rust, sensible money. Pictures available. "gerald_r_simpson" 37765... MORE
Hi, I am a new MG owner and know NOTHING about them. Mine does not run... Was told it ran great last fall, but it had an over heating problem. Engine cranks, but has no spark at the coil. When testiong for power at the positive side of coil it shows none... so I ran a hot wire from the battery to the coil and it started... but only ran less than a minute and it stalled... tried to restart and it had no spark... I disconnected the power wire... rehooked and it started again for a few seconds.... MORE
I need to re-flare the end (towards the slave) of my clutch hard line. The problem is the proper flaring tool is no longer made. Anyone have any ideas on what I can do? Is there a different type of flare tool that would work? Thanks, Nylo 1275 motor "je_swee" 37731... MORE
This can be a problem, but in California, you can get a mechanics lean title with out too much trouble. I did it on a '59 Mercedes 190 I bought for $50. As is, rod through block, no rust, not bad interior and of course no paper or plates. First I did a DMV search and stolen car search with no results. Then I told DMV that a friend brought it by for me to work on 10 years ago, I did $1,000 of work on the car and he never paid me or never came back. Last I... MORE
G'day Joe The standard trick Down Under is to turn up the radio. Or fit one. Or take a nagging wife with you. If you don't have a nagging wife, borrow one from a friend - he will be grateful. My 1380cc race engine is a little worn. It was worn with rust marks in the bores when I first used it 12 years ago, and it hasn't improved by use. I'm not prepared to bore it to 74mm just yet, and so pistons are a little sloppy. Even new pistons aren't much tighter than the old used ones,... MORE
Always glad to have your advise , Ed. Once I've heard from you, I know exactly which course of action to follow. No, I can't count my time as value in the car. If I did, I'd own a $100k car, and then I'd be afraid to drive it. The new clutch works just fine, and those "brittle" grade 8 bolts haven't snapped like soda crackers either. Just thought you'd like to know. "joe blxfstz" 37677... MORE
Or maybe just put the piston in a vise and give it a good squeeze - you know, make it a bit more oval :-). Thanks, I think knurl sounds like good advise. Unoriginal, but good. No, never had the pleasure with those flathead engines, but I remember some of the 60s muscle cars, which sounded like a trash can half full of baseballs rolling down a hill. "joe blxfstz" 37667... MORE
Ah, gotcha'. The problem is one cyl only, the others are fine on bore size and make no noise. The slappy cylinder has good compression, 155 psi, and it doesn't show any smoke or use oil. The only problem, at the moment anyway, is the noise. Maybe it's only an aesthetic thing, but it bugs me. Not enough however to justify a rebore and new pistons (and while it's apart, mains and rods and thrust washers, and might as well do a valve job, and while I'm at it, how 'bout an Al head, etc.) I digress. Here's what... MORE
Ah! Mr goofy! Try the knurl routine. No Adhesives, etc. Been in use since creation, or close. I think you've never had the pleasure of listening to a cold Ford V-8 flat head at start up, and before fully warmed up. Ditto for the Chrysler products L-head engines. You only have one lonely piston to listen to slapping around in there! Later, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 37661... MORE
Piston slap, #4 cylinder only. Cylinders 1, 2 and 3 are worn almost none, but #4 measured .006 oversize. I rebuilt it with std size pistons, assuming that they were worn more than the bores, and were the source of the tonk - tonk piston slap noise. Didn't work. It's still there. Compression is good, 155-160 psi. Doesn't smoke or use any oil. Goes away when fully warmed up, but... Questions - 1) Is this anything to lose sleep over? 2) Any "tricks" to lessen the noise?...uh, rebore and new pistons doesn't qualify as a "trick". "joe blxfstz" 37648... MORE
Paul.... "Thin flange" refers to the thickness of the actual wall of the block, this thickness being most apparent in the block's lower "flange" which borders the oil sump. As far as I know, the company went to thicker wall ("thick flange") 1275's by '68. For stock bores, the thin-flange was not a weak engine. I tested a Judson blower on a stock bore thin-flange '67 for many, many runs at 4-6psi to 6,000rpm and while we did not retain the blower, there wa s no apparent engine damage as the motor continued to run just fine for man... MORE
awww, you mean I won't be able to start the engine running backwards?! (It's fun to do this on someone else's two stroke twin bike - the engine can run backwards if you swap the plug leads) David "David Jacobs" 37640... MORE
