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Hi everyone When replacing the frogeye bonnet, is it best to fit the hinges to the car first, then bolt the bonnet on? Or is it best to bolt the hinges to the bonnet and then offer the hinges up to the car? Regards Chris "howes" 26682... MORE
Hi, I am quite new to my 1967 1275 sprite and I think it may need a new muffler but I am not totally sure. How noisy should these cars be ? I know they have a distinctive rasping sound but this just seems too loud. Should they run quiet when idling? Thanks for any advice Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 26701... MORE
the 'MAA' chassis number prefix is either a 1980 model Rolls Royce Phantom VI (honest!) or in BMC terms, the first character, M, is for Morris (we would expect G for MG or H for Austin Healey or A for Austin), the first A is strictly speaking a sub 1200cc engine (ie A series) and the second A is the body type (not sure what 'A' is - though it's definitely not a Spridget which would be N - 2 seat tourer) CKD cars assembled in Australia had different prefixes, (YGGN or YGN) so it's not one of those,... MORE
I had a lister a few months back as me about if I could help them get a bonnet/hood (the metal thing that covers the engine) for a non-Bugeye Sprite. I have forgotten that listers name. If you are in need of a bonnet still, contact me. So I will know who you are, I had mentioned a possible source, if you can tell me who that source was, I will know it is you. I know many folks out there are needing a bonnet minus the rust along the front of the nose. If you need one, send... MORE
Dear List, I have been offered an MG Midget but do not have much data except for few chassis, engine and model numbers. Can someone shed some light on this? year, specs or whatever you can add will be appreciated! The chassis number is MAA 002909, Engine S1104341-A, Model (body?) BMG12. Cheers Martin "Martin Aubert" 26659... MORE
If you leave the bodies natural they will look horrid within a year, especially the rears. Frost or Eastwood do what amounts to a metal varnish i.e. a clear coating or you could paint them in aluminium paint or a light coating of 'clear' waxoyl. As the rears are rarely seen I'd be tempted to paint them. The fronts will fair better in the relatively dry anvironment of the engine bay but very minimum I'd wipe them over with oil every so often. "Jeremy Cogman" 26635... MORE
no, ours are centre-laced (look at a TC's wheel for example of outside laced) It's difficult to compare the offset on centre-lock wires, because they don't have the same flat face that a bolt-on wheel has, as a datum point. Do Dayton say where they are measuring from? And will they exchange them/refund your money, if they don't fit? The 'direct replacement' 4.5"ers aren't exactly the same as stock, as stock are 4", so you are already starting off from a different position. I think the only foolproof way is to check them on the car, with tyres on,... MORE
threads. If compensate and reach the UTS of the bolt , However on the LBCs the factor of safety built in to most bolt sizes and quantities far exceeds the mechanical strength that the joint actually needs. Alan "Alan" 26604... MORE
Nigel, et al Nut splitters do work , if you don't buy cheap ones , low cost is good - ch eap is not. Same with all tools really. When replacing track rod ends etc there's nothing wrong with using a small amount of anti seize grease or LM (Low Melting temp.) (I like LM10 )I also use WD40 if the thread is trapped at each end and is virtually air tight so the WD40 doesn't evaporate. It's the mechanical stretching of the threads that lock parts together. An excellent article by a BMW owner association member ( the... MORE
Cap'n Bob, My you do go on. I can't process all of what you sent but I will speak to part of it. As the father of two boys (21 and 15)I know (first hand empirical) that the parents of children within 5-10 years of mine either way are the worst in a long time. This is my generation and they, as a group, suck! The catalog of selfishiness, over-indulgence in all areas, horrific judgement and evasion of adult responsibilities of all kinds is truly mind-blowing. All the silliness of the 60's and 70's was pounded into the wits... MORE
there are supposed to be some threaded stud-plate things as well, which should help hold the strips more firmly (can't remember if there's one at each end of each strip, or just one per strip) Check your parts manual for details. David "David Jacobs" 26565... MORE
which, if you believe in kharma, is as it should be. Intelligent we have not been... "psuedo intelligence" and "cowardly" would be more appropriately like it and now we are paying for it which, if you believe in kharma, is as it should be. Too many spoiled children running around with weapons, both here and abroad. So much for "political correctness" in terms of "tolerance and understanding". Time for the "good guys" to identify themselves and get together to practice a little tough love on the "bullies on the block" and put a stop to all this piss poor... MORE
Well Martyn.... the off-center butterflies seems to have been the culprit and spare set of carbs. notwithstanding, Dave Jacobs suggestion certainly seems to have merit should you wish to straighten out the Vizardized ones and continue to run them. The VP3 is about as far as you can go and still have a decent street driver, and this with respect to a 1275, wherein the idle is most definitley "lopey" at 1000rpm. This will be even more more so on the smaller bore 1098....IOW, the rpm at idle 1000rpm) WILL vary....it's expected (I sort of like that "lopey" sound... MORE
Oh yes! I know that feeling too. Doing jobs on these cars can be frustrating at times. With regard to the Midget though, I only have myself to blame, being the present owner and also the 'daft previous owner' . Having said that, when it was still quite new, the garage who serviced it (and supplied it, The Bedford Garage, in Exeter Devon U.K. - no longer in existence, by the way) failed to lubricate the king pins properly, leading to them seizing up, so I resolved to do my own servicing, spending the remainder of what I would... MORE
Brad Shurrup you, cantankerous so and so ! ; ) My car isn't going to be a 'concours' car. Whilst I do try to stick to 'originality' as much as possible, I'm not going to down the route of replacing perfectly good components for new ones just for the sake of aesthetics, because I also beleive in retaining as much of the 'original' car as possible. I may put the car in for some 'condition class' competitions, because it would be nice to get some recognition for all the hard work thats gone in, but it will never be... MORE
Well, I took the carbs off and found that when the machine shop had bored the bodies for oversize shafts they did a very poor job. The center of the bore was shift a few thou up which caused the butterfly not to seal on the bottom. That job was done many years ago. Fortunately I have a another set of carbs that I can use. The engine no can be made to idle just about where I want it although with the cam (VP3 in a 1098) it doesn't like low idle speeds, greater than 900 is good.... MORE
OK, you have got all that off your chest. Now you can face the next few days with a new breath of life. I think the whole world is changing into something that those of us in our mature years don't like, as it is so different from the carefree days of our youth. Margaret South Lincolnshire (UK) "May you be in Heaven half an hour before the Devil knows you're dead" mmbrock88@... 26528... MORE
Roger Yeah I so hate having to do that! This comment was made in frustration after a 'head down' lack of progress day. You know those kind of days, I'm sure we've all had them. You spend the entire day in the garage and make no progress at all, due to one stuck nut/screw/name your devil. Made even more frustrating knowing there was so many others things I can be getting on with. The choice is there, do you continue with said stuckness, or do you just think, right I'll shift that problem over to someone else and get... MORE
I've always used Molybdinum (Moly) Grease (Duckhams LBM10, I think, without looking at the tin, and I have NEVER had problems with bearing or with bolts seizing, ever. R. "Roger Stinson" 26515... MORE
All, I searched the archive but could not find a post and my local trans shop was no help. I just put a 5 speed datsun trans into my bugeye and am trying to locate info as to what oil to use and how much. Just guessing I'd say 30w std motor oil and about a quart. But more accurate information is always helpful. Thanks ken horner "pblock4x4" 26454... MORE
Chris... Interesting question however, did you know that a wider .015, instead of .012 clearance is recommended by the factory for the stock cam when used in "performance" circumstances? I guess the .012 is used for more quiet running under normal or low rpm street applications when top rpm useage will be brief, rather than under cirumstances wherein continuous high rpm running and attendant swelling of parts due to heat is expected. Also, under the latter circumstances, "burning" of a valve will be less likely as well. And, of course, with the wider cleanance, you get faster acceleration ("ramp"... MORE
Hi guys, Finally got some gloss coats on the engine bay and inside the car today. Was wondering, how many gloss coats should I be putting on the engine bay, inside and boot area? I got 5 litres of gloss cellulose and having completed the underside and a first coat on the inside areas its going fast! I was reckoning on about 3 coats for the inside areas? Comments? tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26443... MORE
Martyn... While there might be a slight change in power with great changes in altiude, this seems a "sudden" change according to your mails as well as one of great "extent" as well....at least this is the impression I am getting. So, I don't think the altiude difference accounts for the problem you are having, For things to suddenly change to this extent...I'd be looking for something pretty obvious like a frayed accelerator cable which can "hang up" in it's travel (just replaced my choke cable today for this very reason), etc. Wish I was there to see it... MORE
Listers, one and all. For the past few years we've had a group of enthusiasts gather in Madison WI (USA) for a bit of post-Thanksgiving turkey Sprite dismantling and/or rebuilding called Save Our Sprites. These "events" take place the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving (Nov. 28,29 this year) and are viewable over the internet through some video magic. (details later) We hope to improve that this year with faster service for better interaction. In the past, those who wanted to contribute, but couldn't attend, offered food and beverage from their locality. We've had some great variety from scrapple to... MORE
Martyn...you misunderstand. The spring over the air valve in the SU carb determines mainly when the air valve reaches the full open position with respect to "redline" assuming all other things equal. This is it's only purpose. As cam profile duration and lift increase (over "stock") so shall vacuum produced by the engine at lower rpms DECREASE. IOW......at lower rpm (idle) the engine will "suck" LESS, all else being equal. With respect to your problem, vacuum in this case is working FOR you, not against you. Make sure your throttle return springs are properly hooked up and that the... MORE
