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Hi David, To further this 4.22:1 dif. There were 2 types of them. Morris and Spridgets. The Spridget one is significantly more robust than the Morris difs. It's apparent when you see them side by side. The crown wheel of the Morris dif is a lot thinner than the Spridgets. They do bolt up exactly the same, though. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33435... MORE
The 5.38:1 was found in only a few stateside PU/Van cars. They were usually 4.55:1. Some Early Series II Morris cars with the 803cc engine had the 5.38:1 dif Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33412... MORE
That's the foolproof but difficult way; the easy way is to look for the stamped markings - either the ratio itself or the part number. I think this is on the outside of the casing for the diff assembly. The crownwheel (ring gear) and pinion sets are also marked with their own part number :- ATA 7326 and BTA 550 are the 4.2 diffs from early and late cars respectively. ATA 7266 and BTA 539 are the respective CWP sets BTA 1222 is the 3.9 diff, BTA1223 is the 3.9 CWP BTA 551 is the 3.7 diff from later... MORE
Esteemed Listers, Although of late I have been lurking, I am out of my hole and asking a rather silly (stupid? moronic?) question. Which way does one turn a mixture control nut on an SU to enrich the mixture? I am having my first go-'round with these exotic carbs and getting anything other than garbage out of the motor has been beyond me thus far. The mixture question would help. Yes, I've read the books but I am either illiterate or am just dense. Rob C-75 midget running out of summer. Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@...... MORE
"How much oil...PCV valve" Well, it's been a long time since I've used one in my "ventilated" motors but as I recall from my '67 MGB, they look pretty much soaked in oil under the rubber diaphragm. Perhaps somebody else can confirm this for me or let us know differently. I gotta go back 30 years for this one! Anyway, if the idle comes up a goodly amount when you remove the oil filler cap, all is well PCV-valvewise, Jens. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33342... MORE
Fellas! I just have to tell you this, its probably old news to most of you but anyway. As you know i have been having problems lately (yet again), the symtoms were many and hard to make out. Well today the ba***rd fouled again and wouldnt run properly just like it was running on only 3 cyl. We are now 110% certain that its the petrol causing it. What happens is when the engine has reached normal temprature and i stop (with engine running) or drive very slowly the temp rise very fast (15-20F) and the engine starts fouling.... MORE
David - No, the engine isn't in the correct/final placement just yet, just got excited and had to show somebody. I was thinking I was going to have to cut a radiused notch in top of the crossmember, but playing around last night I have it a little closer to finalized, I raised the motor about 1" and brought it forward (about 5-1/2") so the pulley is about 1/2" back from the steering rack. I plan to modify the oil pan to a flattened roadracing type, so the pan can be tucked up into the chassis. Hope to do... MORE
My 1275 sump pan comes down about " below the rails. I didn't have a tape measure handy for the distance to the ground, but the brochure (again for a late 1275) gives 5" but doesn't say where it's measured. David "David Jacobs" 33296... MORE
Jens... Dyno There ya' go!!! About time!!!! A dyno session(s) is part of a "tuned" engine rebuild. It's the last part, to be specific. The ignition advance curve (rate) is exactly opposite of what works in a mildly cammed stock engine, considering the cylinder filling characteristics (torque curve) of the "hairier" performance cam profile is "back to front" when compared to the stock cam. PCV valve Again, are you running the factory stock intake manifold mounted PCV valve fed from the can on the timing chain cover? If you are, and it is "new", it MAY be "NOS" or... MORE
Guys - I know this was discussed a while back, but what is the stock body height of a Midget? Was looking for the distance from the ground to the bottom of the rockers? or even better would be the distance from the bottom of the framerails to the bottom of the stock oil pan, that is if it sticks below the frame at all? I will probable lower the car slightly from stock but needed someplace to start from, don't want to scrub the pan off. My car is stripped to the tub and I'm trying to figuring... MORE
Some bits are interchangeable - tail lights are the same, mirrors are similar, but Midget ones need an extra angled plinth to sit at the correct angle due to the different curvature of the door panel compared to the 'B. Headlamp bezels again are slightly different, but you can generally make B ones fit. Without knowing the spec of your car (North American? UK?) I wouldn't like to comment on the air filter interchangeability. Wiper switch will probably be a two speed for the B and only a single speed for yours but again could be made to fit.... MORE
"hard starter" Absolutely, Jens. Enough to ruin the engine in very short order. :( That's why my recent previous post was couched in strong terms as in..."get the job done". As little as 4 degrees over- advance can cause combustion temperatures that can burn through the piston crowns in about 10k miles. Ask me how I know :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33269... MORE
Jens....STOP!!! Your chasing yourself in circles here. The variation in cooling temps with the mixture variations, along with appearance of the plugs and most of all, detonation/ pre-ignition (with octane changes thrown in for good measure) suggest the engine is operating on the borderline of self- destruction, in short time. Saving pennies on octane is extremely penny-wise, pound foolish. With a tuned unit utilizing high rpm's a good part of the time, "economzing" on octane can shortly become extremely expensive. Your "tuned" engine is an investment. Feed it a proper and appropriate "nutritional" diet. :):) May I suggest..... ...firstly,... MORE
Jens, If it is SUs then what you describe could be caused by worn throttle spindles. This makes the carbs seem very sensitive to mixture settings. If you richen the settings to compensate at low engine speeds, then at full throttle it will be too rich and will bog down or foul the plugs. If you weaken, then at full manifold depression it will pull in air at the spindle and run too weak, causing it to run hotter Guy "Guy Weller" 33249... MORE
G'day all Some of you may recall that I own a round wheel arch Austin Sprite - AAN10/87699G. It's a bit rough around the edges, but ius mechanically sound. One day it will get its turn to be prettified. And amongst other things, it will need new grille and boot (trunk to the Yanks) badges. I asked on this site about a year ago if anyone knew where I could buy these - no-one did. It seems that Moss Motors and AH Spares don't even acknowledge them in the catalogues. Since only 1022 Austin Sprites were built, there's not... MORE
Nigel, You are too kind. Most glaring mistake was installing the throttle and choke linkages backwards. My only excuse is that I've never worked with dual carbs before. I also had to reset the float in one carb as it leaked gas out the intake. FYI-I set the mixture at 2.5 turns from flush and was pretty close to right on. The motor runs about 15-20 dgs. cooler and sounds better and is definitely more responsive. Haven't driven the car yet as I have to build a throttle cable bracket tonight or tomorrow. Then it's a road test and... MORE
Thanks Robbie! The carbs are finished - but the engine is yet to go in the engine bay, so I can't test them yet. Don't be so sure on the mistakes - I keep quiet about the real f*** ups I have, and only make them public to amuse dear old Ed who loves those kind of things - so what mistakes did you make? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33200... MORE
Guys I will be hosting the Midget & Sprite club stand at the BMC Rally on Sunday (1st August). The Rally attracts hundreds of British Motor Corporation built cars of all types including Spridgets as well as a variety of stalls and autojumble (some real bargains last year) all set in an area of lakes and meadows connected to Peterborough by a steam railway, with a battle of Britain flight flypast thrown in for good measure. The weather promises to be stunning so come along and join us (I will even let you park your Spridget on the club... MORE
brought the frogeye back to life tonight. First time it has started in the last year or so, but for the last 4 years it has only really run once a year to move to a new resting place. However this time it was a bit reluctant to start, and I found no spark so ran a hot wire from the fuse box to the +ve terminal of the coil and it fired up easily then. Interestingly when attempting to rev the engine it really did not want to know, and coughed and spluttered instead, this got better when... MORE
Jens Thanks. I think I may have figured out why the needles may have been changed inthe past. On dismantling the front carb this afternoon I discovered that the butterfly spindle was badly worn - and I mean badly lol. It's worn down by about a mil which is a lot. I can only assume the switch to those needles was in some form of compensation for the worn spindle. No wonder the engine had such a lumpy idle which I could never fix no matter how much adjustment I did - with that amount of wear on the... MORE
For the purposes of discussion on subject engine with 1.25" carbs... There are two types of needles.... "fixed" (no jet interference) & (emissions/later cars) "biased" (spring loaded...runs against jet's inner core...) The fixed needle should experience no wear as long as the needle is correctly centered within the jet. Theoretically, they never contact and in this respect, should not wear. The "biased" needle/jet is a contact set-up and thus wears, requiring replacement from time to time. I forget which metal is softer and what wears first (or most, over time/use). The stock jet is always size .90 for the... MORE
Robert Thanks, that's interesting. I wonder what it's doing in my twin SU HS2's then ! As they are on a 1275 Midget Mk3! And by the AUD markings on the dashpots they are the correct carbs for that car, ruling out someone simply swopping over some from the 1100. I'll ponder this a bit more, but will probably swop back to the AN needles. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33164... MORE
Sorry Bob but both the single and two speed wiper motors are 12v. Terry "terry.isherwood" 33163... MORE
My book says that the D3 was the std needle in 62-68 MG 1100 (1098 cc) using 2 HS2 carbs. The numbers are as follows: AN D3 1 .089 .089 2 .0855 .085 3 .0827 .083 4 .0807 .081 5 .0787 .080 6 .077 .0794 7 .0753 .0785 8 .074 .0778 9 .073 .0745 10 .072 .0764 11 .071 .0721 12 .070 .075 13 .069 - Bob Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 33161... MORE
Hi The 14W wiper motor was made in single speed and two speed versions. This is the round motor can type located under bonnet. Anyone changed their single speed wiper motor and switch for the two speed versions? I have the two speed wiper switch and a two speed 14W wiper motor. Someone told me the single speed motors only had 4 out of the 5 terminal positions fitted whereas the two speed ones had all 5 terminals present. Wrong. My old single speed motor had all 5 terminals fitted but not all connected. The two speed one has... MORE
