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Don't know about these, Spencer but these will settle in time. They all do. How old were the springs you replaced? 'Cause if they were really old (worn) the car probably sat lower in the back then it "should" have. Combine the foregoing with "new" springs, and a 2.5" gain in height, while it seems a lot, might really not be under such circumstances. However, VB sells a rear lowering block kit....I think it takes the rear down 1". Just a guess on my part and the foregoing notwithstanding, I bow to the more knowledgeable with respect to this... MORE
Hey. If you're cabable of pulling the engine, you can certainly rebuild the tranny yourself. Get a book and go at it. It ain't rocket science. "joe blxfstz" 37194... MORE
Busted one on a MG-TC back in the 60s but hadn't thought about that since. I'll definitely check that before pulling the engine/tranny. Hmmmm. If it was the halfshaft, wonder why the gear shift did what it did? Lessee now... I tried to downshift into third and it didn't want to go into third gear. Kinda like there was no gear there at all. Then suddenly it went in so I let the clutch out and something goes bang. I'm still coasting along so I thought, "Well, it's popped out of gear" so I moved the gear change lever... MORE
Wait until you get it apart before you make any decision. If you're lucky it may be just a clutch problem, like the center broke out of the disc. Or maybe the flywheel bolts sheared off; although it sounds like a broken trans input shaft, which isn't too terribly serious. You can rebuild yours, or possibly find a good used one for a few hundred dollars, plus $200 for a new clutch set and related parts. Or you can spend the big bucks for a Datsun 5- speed. If you go the Datsun route, be sure to get a... MORE
There is a poly-block that goes between intake manifold and carb prior to the heat shield/carb. And I recall there was (asbestos-type) insulation on the shield of my PO'd MGA's. I do not recall this on my later post-60/70 Spridgets or MGB's. Not on my Frog restored by PO, either. Of course, any Home Despot will carry something which can be used along wit h modern adhesives that will do the trick. Or heat reflective paint/coating. Beyond higher engine compartment temps in warmer weather which translate into higher induction air temps and gener ally less peppy performance under these... MORE
The heat shields are just sheet metal with no insulation. They block some radiated heat from reaching the carbs, and also deflect hot air so they work okay. Certainly not a bad idea to insulate, though. Oh, the also keep leaking fuel from dripping directly on the hot exh manifold. "joe blxfstz" 37172... MORE
Before you do anything drastic, maks sure you didn't twist off an axle shaft! (or u joint for that matter, but not likely, they make more noise). Almost same symptoms but a ton easier to fix. I would be pissed if I pulled the engine and tranny and found it was just fine. Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 37192... MORE
The easiest way is to take a kitchen meat thermometer, and take off the radiator cap, start car and when the temp gage needle starts to go up, put meat (or candy)(or whatever) thermometer in top of radiator and watch the temp on both. They should be close to the same. You can take a sheet of newspaper and cover the radiator to block the air from the fan to allow it to start to get close to 212 degrees as the upper end of the test. I think this is easier than removing the gage and sender and... MORE
Dave Fitted the exhaust manifold but it is hard up against the chassis rail, will show you. I am convinced the engine runs easier and purrs along smoother. I was going to put K&N air filters on, I wanted the one that spans the two carbs as I like the look of it but an owner I met at a show said they just made it noisier and no better so he reverted to the original ones but kept the sports manifold. You can have a look at my steering wheel problem and anyone got an oil cooler for... MORE
I wonder if you can combine the latest fads and use liquid nitrogen for engine cooling?! David "David Jacobs" 37133... MORE
I guess it all depends on what you want to spend...at $25/gal from Evans Cooling Systems I had forgotten about a specific cooling medium that does not use any water at all. I had read about a few years ago when I was considering a return to racing - Non-Aqueous Propylene Glycol. It goes in as a goo, then thins as it is heated. They say: Water Free " Lifetime" Formula No Corrosion...... Ever! Non Hazardous Eliminates Overheating Reduces "Knock" and Engine Damage Quite the claims, aren't they? Just a bit more information to...confuse or ignore LOL "Jim" 37131... MORE
Well, Bob, I have pretty fair sex...but that really isn't any of your business, now, is it? (references available upon request) ;) I ass-u-me-d the reference was to liquid detergent, too. I am an engineer, though domestic activities are limited to...well, I've already stated it's none of anyone's business...what the detergent does is two fold - 1. through the nature of the covalant bonding, contaminants are suspended in solution so they aren't deposited here and there in the low flow areas of the coolant (and, in the sink, they go down the drain with the water) 2. the pH... MORE
Please don't put dishwashing liquids in your radiator!!! These things can cause foam, and may destroy the water pump and could cause massive overheating. The "water-wetter" type additives use special wetters which do not foam. I once did a test of "Watter-Wetter" in which I outfitted my car with thermometers in the airstream ahead of and behind the radiator, and surface mounted thermometers on the top and bottom rad tanks. I found no differences in engine temp or cooling capacity with "Water- Wetter" against plain water. For summer cooling, use plain water (distilled if your local water is hard)... MORE
I'm a little concerned about recommending dish soap, since soap actually creates surface tension - it's surface tension that allows bubbles to form in a soap solution. Of course, your block will be squeeky clean!!! I enjoyed reading this: http://www.spriteparts.com.au/radiatorfluid.htm (Thanks Colin! - great site) It makes very good sense to me. Based on this info and a little more research I would recommend distilled (or demineralized) water with a corrosion inhibiting compound and, if necessary for the area in which you live, just enough anti-freeze to prevent freezing - remember, you do not need anti-freeze when the engine... MORE
Good day all, Not meaning to be Midgetist but anyone driving their LBCs to Le Mans this year? Those on the other side of the pond/down under are excused. I shall be there (hopefully with my 67 Mk IV) to celebrate the 40th and 45th anniversary of Sprite Class wins. For the benefit of those who didn't know: * In 1960 a Sprite with a 996 engine came 16th and won the 1000cc class. * In 1965 a Sprite with a 1293 engine came 12th and won the 1300cc class. Geri Wiltshire "G & J Swann-Price" 37105... MORE
Loose or worn out rear shackle and/or spring U-Bolts. Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 37103... MORE
Two bolts in back accessed from within the car and two nuts holding studs in the front, accessed from under the car. "Jim" 37075... MORE
"stock 1275...3.73....smoke the tires" Yes it will. Most especially when we team the foregoing with the slightly lower 1st gear of the Datsun 5 speed "whilst" (I like this word........it's got a.............. well.......certain "flavor" so to speak) we enjoy a more serene 70mph cruise in 5th. With the Cooper S cam advanced 4 degrees for Metro inlet timing, I gotta be careful of this in the rain. In 2nd as well (in the lower range after the clutch is in, yet). And this with 70 Series 175 T/A's yet. Cap'n Bob "Quick" :{) "Robert E. Shlafer" 37074... MORE
Seached the archives and no joy. I've managed to remove the two rear 1/4" bolts but haven't had any luck figuring out what holds the front of the rails in place. Any help appreciated, Thanks, Jim "James" 37072... MORE
A stock 1275 in good condition works very nicely with a 3.73. 3800 rpm (145-13 tires) = 70 mph, and it will smoke the tires in 1st gear. "joe blxfstz" 37071... MORE
Rob : My headers (puttin in a V8) are custom made, actually a set of Chevy small block pick-up headers cut up with new Buick flanges, custom collectors with mandrel bent tubes. They are actually turning out better than I expected. My next question is the front valance structure, I basically need to remove everything but the lower front exterior valance sheet metal, does anyone have photos of any Midgets that this has been done to? I'll need to build a new tube structure to hold the new radiator, etc. I don't really want to use hood pins, so... MORE
OK, Rob C. Belay the first paragraph of my previous post then. Now that I know the circumstances, I totally agree with your mech. in that you need to "vent" the crankcase, either to the airfilters (if possible) or to atmospher via a "breather" similiar to the one you can find at www.speedwellengineering.com under "performance, misc.". These breather cans are also available for more reasonable prices from Jeg's and/or Summit . Open up whatever vents you have on the valve cover and skip the charcoal cannister competely with respect to the motor. Now, because the fuel system is closed... MORE
Cap'n The car cam with a ZS150. I transplanted a Spitfire 1300 carb/manifod setup. The original set up had a valve cover tube and a carb tube that connected to a charcoal canister along with the fuel vent tubing. The pro I had work on the car is good. His opinion is that I need negative pressure off the valve cover which between a 30 year old cannister and some suspect tubing connections I am not getting. Most of the original emmissions equipment was gone when I got the car. The motor is a fresh rebuild. Rob C Webfoot... MORE
Robbie.... I don't think the two are related. I think your motor has a case of "blow b y" of combustion gasses past the rings into the crankcase. I am not sure what emissions equipment you still have on your motor and do not "know" much about 1500's at all but, the feed from the charcoal cannister to the valve cover is intake air into the crankcase through a "graduated orifice" which normally works together with the "exhau st" side of this equation which feeds a graduated amount of crankcase gasses to the combustion chamber through a PCV valve... MORE
Folks, Am finally, after 6 years, getting to enjoy my LBC ('75 1500) but I still have some issues. Suggestions have been made and I was hoping group members might comment. After having my twin carb setup tweaked by a "pro" I started leaking oil out of the dipstick. Sealing the joint helped but has not cured the problem which seems to occur at sustained higher speeds and RPM's. It has been suggested that instead of running the valve cover breather tube to the charcoal cannister that I run it into the back of the air cleaner for better... MORE
