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Mitch..IMHO.... if you are going to use the Judson, I would call APT and source the best quality valve they have to offer. Otherwise, unless you've got a hairy cam in there or are running 10.0-1 or a higher static compression ratio, standard quality/design should be fine normally aspirated. About oversized exhaust valves....many moons ago when the first 1275 Cooper S types came out, they went with a larger 1.4 intake valve and subsequently, went to a larger than stock exh.valve to "match", feeling this would give more powe r. It didn't. What it did do was lead to... MORE
Did they target the Austin engined crap the same way?, real MGs have Morris OHC engines.. ;) Stewart "Ford Prefect" 33652... MORE
Easy. the drum brake sub axels have 4 bolts holding the backplate on. the disc brake ones only have three. Two large ones holding the caliper on and a smaller one on the opposite side halfway down holding the dust shield on. And no the stub axel is of not interchangeable, however the king pin would appear to be so, as I used a set from moss on my old Austin A40 Farina Mk1 which had the drum brake setup on the front. In fact the whole reason I bought my now nearly finished 1500 RB midget was to... MORE
BTW Stewart, is your pseudonym a reference to the Ford or to Arthur Dent's friend? rick Morris OHC engines.. ;) "Rick Lindsay" 33657... MORE
G'day Guy Many cars in the BMC range had a common bolt pattern for the front brake backing plates. Not too surprising when you think they could have been drawn up by the same designer or draftsman. Larger cars had (wait for it) larger brakes. Disc brakes were quite rare and, in the 1950's and early 1960's, only used on expensive up-market cars, such as Jaguar. The Austin A40 Farina had 8" drum brakes, deemed necessary to slow down it's heavier sedan body shell. The Morris Major (also badge engineered as Austin Lancer, Wolseley 1500, Riley 1500) had 1500cc... MORE
Thanks Brad. Happy to volunteer info. My wife is a vet paramedic so we have two dogs and a cat. Do I like them? I don't dis-like them but I don't get enough reward from pets to offset the hassle factor ... if I were not married to Nancy. I absolutely DISPISE animals that climb up on cars! LOL! Zero. Weezles Rip My Flesh DOT 4 I don't do track time so it isn't worth it for me to go through the hassle of purging and rebuilding the system. Besides, I am an engine builded. It's my therapy and... MORE
Hello friends, I am in the middle of a rebuild of my Midget's Weber DGV. This is far from the first DGV I have rebuilt but this time I thought I would share a few pictures and a couple of references. Here is what Pierce Manifolds recommended for the DGV 5A in the Midget 1500 application: Jetting for DGV 5A main 140/135 e-tube F50/F6 air corr 155/160 idle 55/60 needle & seat 200 My carb is correct except for the air corrector jets. My car has installed a 165 primary air corrector jet and a 160 secondary corrector jet.... MORE
Hello folks, I have just joined the midgetsprite list having been advised to get my triumph engined Midget crap off the mgs list. I hope to find a better, more friendly home here. Once we have said hello, I have a couple of chewy engine questions but I'll wait a bit to dump my problems on you. :-] Thanks to the MidgetSprite members who invited me here! rick lindsay / tulsa, ok "Rick Lindsay" 33626... MORE
Please forgive a Newbie's ignorance... I just joined this group as I just purchased a 1968 MG Midget. I'm now fumbling around trying to locate a few items I will be needing for the car. Here are two questions for you. 1) Where in the devil can I find 145SR13 tires and tubes?! Special Order, some place like Coker Tire. Check the classic tire dealers a t swap meets 2) Where can I find a decent hood and tonneau at a reasonable price? eBay!! I found a 67 tonneau and a white top for our 68 on eBay. 3)... MORE
Ah....I percieve, Jens! What they've provided is basically their road "performance" curve contained in their "Y" (yellow) commercially available dizzies. The chart they included is the actual advance curve contained within the distributor. This would be in "distributor degrees" Jens, at "distributor rpm". Double the figures in each case for engine rpm and advance available at the crank. Then add in the initial static timing recommendation (4-6 degrees) to the foregoing figures and you'll know how many degrees you are getting at the crank at any rpm, per their "static" timing recommendation. Now, the above is for academic interest... MORE
Jens.... They recurved it based upon the information you provided them on the spec of the motor/octane used?? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33604... MORE
This stand for HUGE American Car. I'm going to change the brake fluid on the 70 Impala, as it has no viscosity, and is black as swamp water. After I drain the master with a turkey baister, and add the new fluid, I will go for the wheel cylinders. The car has power brakes, so my question is, while bleeding the wheel cylinders, car running, or not running? TIA, Brad Brad Fornal 33595... MORE
Hi, I'm currently in the middle of stripping the rear axle on my '76 1500 midget. The brake drums are off, as are the shoes, slave cylinder and the half-shafts are out, im trying to get the bearing/hub section off so that I can get the backing plate from the brakes off the axle to clean it up and replace the bolts. What is the best way of doing this? Do I just need a 1" 7/8 spanner and just undo it or is there an easier way that I just haven't worked out yet? Thanks in advance Damien... MORE
Thanks Brad I have removed the covers and extracted the tappets and found two of them worn/pitted. The objective of the dismantling is to try and find a rattling noise that occurs on acceleration and deceleration - this is the first time I have taken an engine apart so it is a voyage of discovery....so you can expect more requests for help in the near future to appear on the web site! Thanks again for your assistance, Lee lparke12@... 33550... MORE
Thanks Paul. I have removed the covers and extracted the tappets and found two of them worn/pitted. The objective of the dismantling is to try and find a rattling noise that occurs on acceleration and deceleration - this is the first time I have taken an engine apart so it is a voyage of discovery....so you can expect more requests for help in the near future to appear on the web site! Thanks again for your assistance, Lee lparke12@... 33549... MORE
Hi Lee, Tappet covers are located on the side of the block, underneath the manifolds. Single bolt holds them in place. Tappets can be removed without removing the cam on 948 anfd 1098 engines. The 1275 has no tappet covers, so the cam must be pulled first. Later, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33530... MORE
Can anyone help please? I have a 1098cc MG engine in my 1961 Mk I Frogeye Sprite and have just removed the head for fault analysis for a rattling noise. The Haynes manual (page 37) states there are tappet covers but they are not identified in the exploded view of the engine. Can anyone help to identify where the covers are? and Is it possible to remove the tappets without removing the cam? Many thanks for your help Lee lparke12@... 33529... MORE
Hi Chaps, I've got a 12G 295 stage II head with Rimflo valves on a 1098 bottom end. I need help on head gaskets, the bores have been ground out to 1150 and the head gaskets give up easily. QUESTION: Should I use copper bi-metal or composite? or is there something better? When to tourque the head down, and what settings? Any help appreciated. TIA "gerald_r_simpson" 33523... MORE
Jens.... What, pray tell, are you waiting for? Install the oil pressure limiting valve NOW and you will answer your own question! :) The answer is probably yes. And MAYBE it will also solve that puff of smoke you get out the exhaust after driving from cold a mile or so down the road? But have you changed to a fresh rubber diaphragm within the valve? And don't tell me the valve is new so you don't have to!!! :) Are you (per Guy's post) using the filtered plastic oil filler cap as well? Higher than required oil pressure... MORE
Thanx, Paul A. Didn't realize this was a "blowby" post.... must have missed a message somewhere (wouldn't be the first time, eh?:). How about that, Doug? The engine is out of the car and you have a "blowby" problem?? Fill me in....I'm all ears!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33501... MORE
OK, Doug... You indeed have the higher compression 8.9-1 motor. Thought so. And you've done a bit of good work on it already, obviously. Here again, assuming the motor has done 77k "untouched" up to this point in time, then yes....personally I would pull the pan and REPLACE all the bearings (and oil pump) as part of preventive ("downline") maintenance as seeing as the motor is already out of the car. I mean, what better opportunity? :) Your assessment of the oil pump location, etc. is correct, Doug. Easy job at this point and sure, I'd renew the front... MORE
Colin, I have a friend that races 210s in SCCA and I asked him about the transmission and reliability issues with it. The only comment was that the shift fork that was secured by a roll pin could be a problem. That was solved by using a bolt and loctite. I'm not exactly sure how much power he's making with the 210 engine but it's estimated to be 100 to 120 hp. He told me that the transmission was capable of handling 150 hp. I did not have to do any modifications to the heater box although some grinding... MORE
G'day all Hopefully the last couple of questions before we dicide on which 5-speed kit to use. Whilst it seems everyone says "no modifications to the car are necessary", the Morriservice instructions state: "Underneath the heater box is a beam that needs to be altered some. Typically it needs to be moved up and back about 3/4 inch. Pounding it up and back with a hammer is the usual way." Well, if you ever tried to undo that damage, you would think that it was a modification. I questioned Paul A on this, and he replied: "This mod under... MORE
Hi, Colin.... The early Rivergate kits required the body mod you speak of. Today's Rivergate kit does not. No modification was required to my current BE to drop in the Rivergate engine/Datsun 5 speed "combo" which took the place of the stock 1098/ribcase gearbox the car came with. As I understand it..... the Rivergate clutch disc is a Datsun unit modified to match the stock (or upgraded?) Spridget Borg & Beck pressure plates. As I understand it.... the gearboxes used and rebuilt/sold commercially by Rivergate are those sourced from Datsun 210 TRUCKS. Not sure of their torque or HP... MORE
And what about the 5.1 to 1 ???? I have got one and its got a strange housing, no ribs in the outside and nothing to bolt the brake pipe to. Beckers 1330 "beckers" 33427... MORE
