MAIN
Engine (external)
Previous Page | Next Page
Hello Group, Due to near arrival of Child number 2, sadly, I have to dispose of some non-core assets (can't eat it or wear it!). I have a 68 Midget in Old English White. 3 owners and 33,000 miles from new (genuine). Bodywork restored to a very high standard. The solid sound of the door shutting is like no other. The downside is that I think I broke one of the piston rings when building the engine. Also very small area of paint damage on top of o/s wing due to overcrowded garage. I've no time to fix it... MORE
unavoidable!!) And then in cold weather the waterlogged seat freezes solid so you sit on a block of ice. Cooling for the piles, but otherwise not to be recommended! I am not as concerned as you about originality, but want something that will put up with everyday use in all conditions. So on the Austin Sprite, I rebuilt with rubber strapping, polythene, hardboard and hessian. They are lasting well! Guy "Guy Weller" 25897... MORE
"Checked for voltage at the dizzy", where? The bolt on the outside of the dizzy is OK, but there is a wire that goes from that bolt to the points that isn't really a fuseable link, but blows like one. Check to see it you have a circut from the bolt to the points, and the points have a nylon O that goes through the end of the spring that if the connection isn't just right, no fire. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 25828... MORE
My guess would be "Yes", Bob... With ALCOHOL/water injection. Stock HC 1275's run only 8.8-1 and the Turbo Metros ran higher. They also had forged pistons but the stock Spridget piston while cast, is a pretty strong item as they take low pressure supercharging (with appropriate 100RON gasoline) without a problem. This would be up to 7psi. Intercooling makes a big difference but alcohol/water really "brings back" the leaded 100+RON octanes of yesterday. This stuff injected in appropriate amounts really cools down the combustion process. The Turbo Metro head uses the larger 1.4 intake valves I think. For more... MORE
Cap'n Bob, With respect back at ya.....Wow! Where do I start. I think the current malaise owes a lot to the sixties ethos. Self actualization, do your own thing, I'm OK, you're OK etc. This experimentation with the social contract eroded the very qualities that made us what we are. Relativism is evil. Black and white are just as valid as gray. The corporate cheaters don't bother me nearly as much. They got caught and we've survived it before. Rockefeller, Gould, Vanderbilt et al. I have more trouble with action groups, eco-freaks for example, who cloak their particular brand... MORE
Kelly One of the methods insurance companies use to value cars for insurance purposes is to ask themselves the question 'how much would it cost to replace this car with an alternative in the event of a complete loss' ie what would a virtually identical (in terms of year, condition etc) car cost to buy? Using that philosophy you can look at current cars for sale that are similar in age and condition to yours, and be able to come up with a reasonable figure. It gets a little more complex when you start to consider cars at the... MORE
"insurance"....that's the operative word here, Nigel. Kelly...how about a call to someone like Hagerty or www.collectorcarins.com See what they have to say about this? They insure them so they ought to know or possibly can point you in the right direction for information your insurance company would consider valid. Visit www.rivergate5speed.com for a valuation on a newly rebuilt mild performance street motor, also? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25804... MORE
Well... Oil is absolutely coming up through the pushrod tubes...faster than it can drain down...It must be coming up from the lifter gallery as it seems that the lifter gallery is filling first before it pushes the oil up through the pushrod tubes and into the valve-spring-rocker-arm-area. There doesn't seem to be anything leaking (more than should be expected) from the rocker shaft assembly. Thanks again to anyone who has posted... Kevin "kevin_tonita" 25796... MORE
the engine needs rebuilding at the moment as it burns a little oil when reved out of gear - slightly blue, i dont think i will be able to turbo it at the moment because im 20 (= stupid insurance), so would like a build which is a good investment for power later down the road and i think turboing is a good, reliable (cheapish) way to this any ideas on how to do this wisely without wasting (too much) money? has anyone tried avonbar self build kits, are these hard to put together? cheers Rob "Robert EADES" 25775... MORE
Roger Thats really helpful considering the question related to a 1973 '1275'cc LOL Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 25777... MORE
Turbo head is not very different to the standard 1275 head. You will need the turbo pistons though. This will lower the compression ratio. they are also forges rather than cast and as such stronger Stewart "Ford Prefect" 25769... MORE
if i was to use a metro turbo on my midget, changed to a turbo head and used and intercooler and water injection would i be able to use the standard compression ratio or would this melt the engine? cheers Rob "Robert EADES" 25764... MORE
found this online ad thought i would pass it on..i have a picture of the ca =3D=0D r in my pict folder (62 midget) quote: "The string-back gloves are off... MG Rover is aiming to knock its rivals f =3D=0D or six with a sensational reinvention of the Midget. Inspired by one of the most successful cars the firm has ever built, the dr =3D=0D op-top is aimed at the likes of the Ford Streetka and Smart Roadster - both of which were revealed to international acclaim last =3D=0D year. Other rivals include the forthcoming Volkswagen Polo Spyder and... MORE
The Morris minor engine will bolt straight in and sit on the original mountings as log as you still have them! However there are some minor (?) differences, but very few of these will prevent the car form driving. You will have to fit an electric fuel pump as the original 948 had an AC mechanical pump driven from the crank shaft, the Morris minor had an SU electric pump, and so the block will not have the hole in the side to fit the mechanical pump. The minor engine will be one of three sizes. 803cc in which... MORE
Until I get the transmission from the 68 repaired, I have dug through the extras in shed. I started with the latest one that came out of a 65 Midget, that had not been on the road in over 20 years. The shifter would not move, and the input shaft was almost locked. I put an old yoke on the back and gave it a bit more pressure and got it to move. I forced the shifter into all gears, and got a nice positive, firm movement on front and rear shafts. The thing that concerned me was the... MORE
Check the crankcase pressure before you strip out the engine. It may be the cause of all the trouble. A lot of work if its only in need of a PCV etc.etc. R "Roger Stinson" 25696... MORE
'Twas Yellow on the 1098 's R "Roger Stinson" 25695... MORE
Hi Brad, The selector fork fits around a gear cluster and should move that forward. Lever on the cluster not the bronze fork. What happens is that the gear moves axially along splines/ teeth. There are 3 spring loaded plungers fitted radially betwen the two sliding parts. The outer gear cluster moves too far along the inner and these plungers "pop" out, and wont readily go back in to allow the outer cluster to slide back out of gear. They can be shocked back in if you pry on the gear cluster rather than the selector; Or (better) you... MORE
Congrats, James! Rain has stopped here and I am about to take the BE out as the sun comes out... I know "that feeling" you are feeling! No way around taking everything out with respect to the oil leak, eh? The 1380 is a pretty potent unit and if it's new, rings probably haven't really seated fully yet so crankcase pressure would be maybe temporarily on the high side? Sure the crankcase is either well vented or the PCV system (either way) is functioning properly...I mean I hate to see 'ya pull the whole shebang apart again (though not... MORE
Cap'n I said no, because Bob in San Diego said Yes ; ) . . . and er to put a 1275 cc A series into a rubber bumpered Midget? Don't be daft! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 25659... MORE
Chris I's probably not worth swapping engines. I would put a Weber DGV on the 1500 and enjoy. If you really want to work on the car you can put a double row timing chain, new thrust washer, a rocker oiler and you can fit 1275 cam bearings to a 1500. A lot less work than swapping engines. and a perfectly respectable engine. And you could recover part of the cost by selling the 1275. I take a lot of crap from the MG orthodoxy, but I race my '76 1500 "Spitget", No major failures yet, knock on wood.... MORE
Hey Lists!! Drove my Bugeye around the neighborhood yesterday! First time since I bought the disassembled body & boxes of parts 3 1/2 years ago; first time Bugeye has been on road since 1973 (multiple POs). 1380 with headers & Maniflow exhaust - sounds gooood!. It was GREAT! Oh, sure - leaks oil from rear seal area, brakes need to be bled more, speedo didn't work .... But It Ran! In case you didn't notice - I'm just a little enthused, excited, stoked, ... Well, back to fixing problems. Really looking forward (not) to pulling engine/trans to fix oil... MORE
mine used to stick in first (the lever used to go 'too far' and it wouldn't come back without a lot of force) and I tracked it down to a worn plunger in the first/second gear assembly. (see factory manual fig F5 item 1) I think the plunger is meant to hold the gear in position on the hub, while that particular gear is selected, but the end on mine was worn down so it no longer had a smooth radius which allowed everything to move too far and then made it difficult to disengage first. You'll need to... MORE
Chris, Welcome to the MG world. I have a '75 Midget witht the 1500 Triumph drivetrain so I can shed some light on the subject. The 1500 motor is strong and torquey. It gives reasonalbe performance even in the gutless, smog-choked years it was installed. For most uses of the car, the 1500 is great. The 1275 is an MG engine and a pretty good one. It revs higher, snarls instead of rumbling and is very eager to accept upgrades and really become a screamer. For semi-serious and serious performance driving, autocross, road racing or balls out engine building,... MORE
Chris... I have no personal experience with the 1500 motor. Only the prior Series A 1098 and 1275, and damn little with the 1098! However, it is generally accepted by most that the Series A 1275 is a more bulletproof (tougher) engine than it's later Spitfire 1500 factory replacement, as well as being far more "tuneable". However, from everything I've heard from others (on this list) that do own and drive stock 1500 motors, they perform just fine in normal street driving. Only complaint I've heard mechanically (and I've heard this argued) is that as the crank wears and... MORE
