MAIN
Body
Previous Page | Next Page
Thankyou, Don, for approx shipping cost of bonnet from coast to coast. Pretty damn reasonable, seems to me. Thanx! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30166... MORE
Hoods, bonnets and boots. I'll never get used to the fact that they use funny names for stuff on the other side of the pond. Jim- Your post earlier got me wondering. I called my mom (home ec teacher for years) for some ideas. So, at lunch, I went down to the local JoAnn fabrics, and sure enough, they sold automotive headliner by the yard (in about 6 different colors as well) for about $7 per yard. On the roll above it, they had an insulation ($4 yd) that looked as if it would work well sandwiched between the... MORE
Jon is going to check current prices but he ships to Japan via Los Angeles and it is about $150.00 to Los Angeles. Expect it would be about the same to the bay area, perhaps less if the trucking firm he uses has a drop off terminal here and it is picked up at their terminus. Seeing that Oakland is just next door and a major port most likely one there. Don "Don May" 30155... MORE
I have 2 main mechanical issues I will need to fix before doing any real driving. (I have many other non-mechanical issues, some even just mental). 1. Brake pedal needs "pumped" to build up pressure. Once I pump it a few times I can hold it down and it stays firmly (doesn't go all the way to the floor no matter how hard I push). Before I pump it, it goes all the way to the floor. When I let off the brakes, and drive for a bit, I need to go through the whole process again. I don't... MORE
Neighbors must think me crazy . . . My 73 has the notorious sticking fuel pump contacts. Usually it works but after about a week of sitting it acts up. I keep my knock off hammer behind the seat . . . if I do not hear the fuel pump start clicking when I turn on the key I reach back behind me, take the big lead knock off hammer and hit the back wheel arch behind the passenger seat. It gets the message and starts clicking. Works every time.... Beats getting out, finding a broom handle and sticking... MORE
David By safety I was more refering to driver saftey than car strength, in that a hard top offers more protection from low flying tarmac than a soft top, it always shockes me how many (even top level competitors) press against the roof when they roll a car, this being a thin piece of tin or even canvas between you and 100mph tarmac. There are also several rules about drivers arms/heads not being able to get out of a cockpit in the event of an accident Regards Chris Valentine Dunlop Motorsport maybe in general, but in the specific arena... MORE
Thanks for the tip on the bonnet. I talked with Jon this morning. Even with shipping costs to the west coast the price can't be beat. He said in the past most of their bugeye bonnet sales has been to Japan. In the future I will most likely replace my heavily worked on metal one with a new fiberglass. Don "Don May" 30139... MORE
ok, make the mould as you're driving along above about 60mph, the hood takes on a rounded shape then! Regards David "David Jacobs" 30130... MORE
David Yeah but then you'd get a 'hood' shaped Hardtop and not a 'round' shaped hardtop, which was the object of the exersize! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30127... MORE
maybe in general, but in the specific arena of MG club racing, there would be no safety derived advantage in using a hardtop (especially a 'race weight' one) as it doesn't provide any structural strength, unlike a saloon or factory built steel hardtop/coupe; and with short races with no driver changes, this rule would not be a factor either, so Nigel's theory of superior aerodynamics would appear to be the logical one. Regards David "David Jacobs" 30125... MORE
or presumably, you could make a fibreglass mould off the existing soft top. (just remember to use plenty of mould release!) David "David Jacobs" 30123... MORE
Rob I've pondered this one myself, I must admit. Mainly because I've always really hated the look of the standard OE hardtop that is fitted to the later Midgets and Sprites. For some reason in my mind - it just doesn't look 'right', it looks ungainly and an 'afterthought'. However the original BMC and Healey Hardtops for the Frogeye and early MKII Sprites and MK I and II Midgets looks 'right' and elegant. I've never actually sat down and analysed the differences between these hardtops, but the earlier one in my mind just looks 'curvier' and more 'sporty' whereas... MORE
Rob I've pondered this one myself, I must admit. Mainly because I've always really hated the look of the standard OE hardtop that is fitted to the later Midgets and Sprites. For some reason in my mind - it just doesn't look 'right', it looks ungainly and an 'afterthought'. However the original BMC and Healey Hardtops for the Frogeye and early MKII Sprites and MK I and II Midgets looks 'right' and elegant. I've never actually sat down and analysed the differences between these hardtops, but the earlier one in my mind just looks 'curvier' and more 'sporty' whereas... MORE
Racing has more to do with class and safety, open top would be different to hardtop/saloon in many cases eg. trackdays open tops have to use helmets when saloons sometimes dont or Lemans where open tops get different rules because of the ease of changing driver compared to a roof with doors. Regards Chris Valentine Dunlop Motorsport I am sold on fitting one in winter now, also the aerodynamics must be better, why else the the racing boys fit them for racing? Any thoughts ? Alan christopher_valentine@... 30102... MORE
Absolutely, Alan.. The Sebring Sprites had even better (aerodynamically speaking) "hardtops"! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30106... MORE
Having just driven 70 odd miles on M6 at aprox 90mph most of the way with the soft top up, heater on. The wind noise was most unpleasant, and would be very taxing on a long journey. Besides that, at that speed I was getting an ear-ache from my wife telling me to slow down every 3 minutes. We bought a secondhand hardtop (for just under the same price that I paid for a complete midget) Fitted it and made the return 70 mile jouney at the same speed. Wind noise disappeared. Earache disappeared cos my wife associates noise... MORE
Jens I would think most plating companies would do the 'clear zinc and yellow passivation' as the process is similar for chrome plating apart from the final process and polishing. It's worth checking with whoever you intend to do your chrome playing with. It's best to group the items up and get them done in a batch rather than trying to get individual pieces done - it's cheaper that way. I didn't sand blast any of mine, but cleaned them thoroughly in white spirit/turps/kerosene several times to get rid of any oil or grease that was in there. I... MORE
Hi guys As I mentioned, when I got a moment I'd do some pics of the re-chroming I hade done and some of the zinc and yellow passivation. I've uploaded some of these pictures to my folder in the photo's section of the yahoo website - Nigel-71-Midget. I've also uploaded a picture of my grille I recently finished. I haven't done any pictures of the front bumper blade, as this is wrapped up for protection, but the chroming is of the same quality as the over-riders I have done pictures of. I'm generally very pleased with the quality of... MORE
Don. I believe the rails were originally bolted down on top of the carpet. On mine, I bolt them direct to the floor, but with a strip of car inner tube between them and the floor. Not sure that this really makes any difference. I then slit the carpets where the runners are, leaving it connected across the front, but extending the slits through to the rear edge at the back. This way, it is easy to slide the carpets out from the front for drying after those inevitable soakings ! Guy "Guy Weller" 30087... MORE
Don. I believe the rails were originally bolted down on top of the carpet. On mine, I bolt them direct to the floor, but with a strip of car inner tube between them and the floor. Not sure that this really makes any difference. I then slit the carpets where the runners are, leaving it connected across the front, but extending the slits through to the rear edge at the back. This way, it is easy to slide the carpets out from the front for drying after those inevitable soakings ! Guy "Guy Weller" 30088... MORE
Don. I believe the rails were originally bolted down on top of the carpet. On mine, I bolt them direct to the floor, but with a strip of car inner tube between them and the floor. Not sure that this really makes any difference. I then slit the carpets where the runners are, leaving it connected across the front, but extending the slits through to the rear edge at the back. This way, it is easy to slide the carpets out from the front for drying after those inevitable soakings ! Guy "Guy Weller" 30089... MORE
Morning, Does anyone know if from the factory the seat rails were installed on top of the carpet or directly to the floor board and the carpet installed around the rails? Have seen it both ways but that was on previously owned cars so have no reference to factory practice. Either way . . . in all the cars I have and had the seat rails were very prone to rust. Don "Don May" 30086... MORE
Well, Jim... Weight IS one advantage. With a "glass" bonnet we go more 50/50 fore/aft. I don't know what the actual weight savings is, but it IS substantial in consideration of available HP. It's sorta like lightening the flywheel but it's more effective in the higher rather than lower gears, unlike the lightened flywheel. Also, while I'm in good shape for 61, part of the reason is because I'm "aware" enough not to try to be a 20 year any more than I try to be a 40 year old, again. People have back problems (usually) as they get... MORE
Cap'n Bob, Does Sports & Classics have a web site? Would like information on the BE bonnet. Don "Don May" 30074... MORE
Make that "edition", JC! :) As to the hobby....alive and well....just ordered a fibreglass BE bonnet (made for, and sold by) Sports & Classics. Hand laid...street thickness....$450!!! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30069... MORE
