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Steve I have to partly agree with Ed here (Arghh). Whilst I'm not familiar with POR, I've been lead to beleive that its almost identical to what we have over here called 'Hammerite'. I've not had great experiences with Hammerite, but that may well be because I've thinned and sprayed with it, rather than brush painting it on. What I've found is a) it takes ages to dry. It goes touch dry fairly quickly, but doesnt fully dry for ages. I've painted components with it, let them air dry for a couple of days, stacked them in a box,... MORE


Ed I didn't get it wrong at all, I don't know why you're getting so excited. It may well be 'officially' called Austin-Healey light green, but the reason it's also known as MGC metallic green, is because at the factory when they painted the MGC engines they used this colour, and it also seemed logical that they also paint the Midget engines with it as well, note the way round that is. Ed, please note here that we're talking MG as in MG Midget and MGC, nothing at all to do with Austin Healey, hence the colour being known... MORE


If anyone would like to toss me a bone on one, some or all of these questions I'd appreciate it very much. If I can figure out how to post pictures in the Photos section I'll put up some 'before' and 'after' of the engine bay. I didn't have a camera available to take any 'before' pictures of the motor but I'll try posting some of the 'POR-15' painted 'after' pictures. BTW, if anyone is getting ready to paint their engine Black and would like to give POR-15 a try let me know. The Engine Painting kit provides enough... MORE


Eeg I'm sorry to have to tell you this, but you've done it the wrong way round. It's not always easy to know which bits come first, but any major structural bodywork on one of these cars has to happen around the door gaps and door frame. The correct sequence is to first repair the door frame then refit a new skin. Now you have a correct door to use as a template for getting the door gaps correct. Once you have the door gaps correct, you repair the inner A post, and inner sill. Now you have a... MORE


Ok...I get the Castrol 20w50 and put it in the engine. Crank her up and she hums just sweeeeet. So, I go out to drive her. When I push in the clutch she idles down way low like something's dragging on the engine and the little red ignition light comes on. I give her a little gas and we seem to be fine. No problems putting her into gear so I go for a drive around the block. I get to the end of the street and can't get her in first. I get her in second and we... MORE


Tom I suspected that sentimentality would be an issue, it so often is with these little cars due to their 'personality'. Then in my mind, you have two options. Get the bodywork rebuilt by a specialist, or go for the Heritage Shell route, or three if you include the chance finding of a good straight rustfree bodyshell. Getting the body rebuilt by a specialist will probably cost as much as if not more than a Heritage Bodyshell. "amukdigiphoto" 26799... MORE


Why???? 'Cause they are not making a military product upon which their survival depends for one thing and they are making a car part to a dollar for another. So you gotta order a gun or MIG to get their best quality, evidently!! :):) Frank...how much would we be paying for original quality 1960 parts in today's dollars? Vick Brits fr'instance, sells "new" A-frames for $120 each. Moss sells them for $160 and according to them, they are NOT of Far East mfgr. and come from the UK (who got them from ??????). LBCarCo discounts these at $135. An... MORE


Tom... As I understand it, about 5k for the whole shebang but you already have good doors and other useful parts. So the only correct way of doing this is to email or phone for exactly what YOU need as I believe the tub may come in different stages of completion. (If there are any listers who know more about this, please feel free to chime in) As you know, you can never stop rust, though you can slow it down. One way or the other, you are going to be spending a lot of bucks (and/or time) on... MORE


Thanks Nigel, Yes, sentimentality does enter into it. My father gave me this Sprite as a high school graduation present some 23 years ago. He actually gave it to me in pieces, and we rebuilt it together, which brought us closer, considering I was living with my mother after their divorce. So it's not just a car, it's a family heirloom! In the last three years I have installed performance suspension front and rear, uprated brakes, Weber, and LCB exhaust header. Now the drivetrain is out to rebuild the engine and install the Datsun 5- speed. Looking more closely... MORE


I filled the clutch fluid to the full level and just went out to drive her. I haven't driven her in probably a month. Now, there's almost no play in the pedal coming up off the floor before the gear engages and once when I stopped and had the clutch in I felt the engine bog down and it ground going into first. I eventually was able to gently work it in. It's also making an odd noise that I don't think I can describe but know it's not normal for this car. The oil on the dipstick registers... MORE


Cap'n His car is a '68 which is a square wheel arch, the round arch didn't come in until '72. SWA's are available. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26763... MORE


Bob, He can buy my entire car including the fresh 1275 for the cost of a Heritage shell and it's never had any rust or panel replacement. Best part is, kit's an original. Gerard "gerardchateau" 26757... MORE


I suggest you check out this one, as I plan to sell it. the work is already done and it's never had any rust. It has the straightest panels you'll ever see on a Spridget. Where are you located? http://www.gerardsgarage.com/GarageContent/Sprite_Collection/MKIV_Col lection.htm Gerard "gerardchateau" 26756... MORE


Greetings from Minneapolis. My 68 Sprite is developing a serious case of tinworm. I would like to purchase a clean and straight replacement body to transfer all my nice parts to. Just a rust free tub from 1967-1974, preferably with wings and bonnet. I have good doors and a boot lid already. Faded paint is okay, and I can fix a few small dings, but no major dents, cracks, or twists please. I hear there are some nice tubs in the desert southwest just waiting for adoption. Cheers, Tom foragoodtom@... "foragoodtom" 26753... MORE


David *chuckle* Reasonably being the operative word here. If the windscreen surround screws are seized it can be a bloody nightmare to do. Even when you've got the screws out and have put it all back together its still a pain in the butt to get the frame to pull together enough to get the screws in! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26730... MORE


The list of luminaries is still growing! We have a British salvage yard "entrepreneur" attending. (We needed someone with an accent, besides Frank.) Chris Mills should be here. Should be very intrestin'. Weapons will be checked at the door. Peter C. Who else??? "Peter C." 26728... MORE


So you are saying if I am in the UK "side lights" are on the "front" of the car and are what we in the US would call "parking/ turn signal" lights which are located just below the headlights and the lights on the sides of the front and rear fenders are "markerlights." So . . . I am safe saying there were no "marker lights" on a 62 Midget, and if there were they would not flash. I've already had my lesson in wind-wings . . . was it a crime for me to drive on the M-4... MORE


Dear all Thanks for the many replies. Will try the "hinge on the car" approach. Must persuade my wife to help first though! Regards Chris Howes '58 Frogeye "howes" 26714... MORE


I guess you mean the bootlid, Margaret? Must make visibility a bit tricky if the spare's on the bonnet! It's easier to do the bonnet with the hinges bolted to the car because the bolts are inside the car, not in the engine compartment. This means the bonnet manouevrer can't see the bolt holes, and the bolt-putter-in-er can't see the hinges as they approach and with a heavy frogeye bonnet, it must be 100 times worse than with just the hinges by themselves. The bootlid is a different story, because the hinge bolts are there in front of you... MORE


For North American Sprites, it was at HAN9 72034, so Brandon's would most likely have been Positive earth originally. (These chassis number change points do not necessarily indicate everything before was one spec and everything after was another - minor part changes especially would have been brought in over some period of time.) Regards David "David Jacobs" 26690... MORE


Hi everyone When replacing the frogeye bonnet, is it best to fit the hinges to the car first, then bolt the bonnet on? Or is it best to bolt the hinges to the bonnet and then offer the hinges up to the car? Regards Chris "howes" 26682... MORE


Hi, I regularily replace the bonnet on my midget. I have a spare with the wheel bracket fixed on it, so that when we go on holiday we can get our luggage in the boot. We found the easiest for that is to have the hinges fixed to the lid, then offer the whole lot up to the car. But even for the boot it is a two person job. It might be best when replacing the bonnet that there are 2 helpers, to hold it steady!! Taking it off is far easier than replacing it!! May you be... MORE


I'd leave it neg earth, as that condition slightly lessens body corrosion. Basic chemistry says the opposite.. In fact its the reason car were positive earth in the first place. The advent of the transistor in geral automtive use promted the change to neg earth as apareantly it works better that way.. and more rapidly rotting cars of the early '70's Stewart "Ford Prefect" 26679... MORE


I don't know from the VIN, but if the tach is original and says pos earth, then it must have been. The tach won't work negative earth without some internal wiring, but the generator and fuel pump will, the gen by simply repolarizing. the aftermarket radio is almost certainly neg earth, as there haven't been any pos earth ones made for a long time. Installation of the radio may be the reason for the conversion. I'd leave it neg earth, as that condition slightly lessens body corrosion. "Jeffrey Holmes" 26677... MORE


The "frame" rails the are just in front of the seats and parallel to the tunnel do they get covered in vinyl? As the carpet kit does not have enough material to cover them and the car did not have original carpet. Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26673... MORE