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aren't you going to paint it, then?! David "David Jacobs" 32970... MORE
Just picked up a hardtop for the 1500, its not in bad overall condition, however the rear screen rubber needs replacing, and they are not listed in the Moss catalogue, however someone somewhere must be making them, as a whole new hardtop is listed!. Stewart General Reality Failure : Reboot Universe "Ford Prefect" 32961... MORE
It is simple, just stay on the gas and shift at red line..no problem. Cheers Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 32950... MORE
Some kits use the original brackets turned the other way and swapped over to the other side of the car, but the Spax kits for 1500 Midgets (as shown in the MG Owners' Club accessories brochure) use brackets that look like the one in your photo. If you jack the car up with the jack under the body, (the front mount for the rear spring is my preferred choice) then the weight of the axle just sits on top of the spring with no extra load on your broken plate. Once the U bolt nuts are removed the plate... MORE
Posted a picture of my new toy.I think I have most everything previous owner had screw up corrected. Time will tell. Everything works. installed Pertronix ing. Just to make it a little easer to tune. Only problem is 2nd gear. dose not make any noise or anything. shifts into gear smoothly. Will stay in gear on acceration but on deceleration it pops out of gear. Any suggestions, could this be an adjustment problem. Thanks Carl "electrabee" 32938... MORE
Just to add to the brake switch discussion. I just replaced the switch on the brake pedal on my '74. Raise the hood and locate the pedal box just behind the left front fender. There are 4 screws holding the cover onto the box. After removing them, the pedals will be visible and you can see if the plunger on the brake pedal switch is working properly. If there is any question, unhook the switch and use a jumper wire to connect the two wires coming from the wiring harness. If the brake lights light, the switch is faulty.... MORE
OK, working on the Midget again, it's running just peachy with the petronix. My last real issue before getting it road inspected is the brakes. There are 2 issues: 1. Brakes need to be pumped 2-3 times every time you need to stop to get full pedal. Once they are pumped, they are solid and do not go to the floor, no matter how hard they are pushed. I assume from this they are holding pressure. Additionally, they don't seem to be leaking anywhere. Next time you need to stop, you need to do pump them 2-3 times again.... MORE
Bob Nice to hear from you. Photo attached My MK III Sprite is the one in the gazebo, the event took place at Hermitage Hall near Downham Market Norfolk, on the original medieval pilgrims way to Walsingham. You may have to blow the photo up a bit to see the detail since it is in panoramic format, the non-Spridget on the right hand end is a Le Mans replica MGA, the red car about halfway between my Sprite and the MGA is an Arkley. The Arkley is built by stripping the outer panels from a Spridget and replacing them... MORE
David, The A+ Dizzy needs some simple modifications. The shaft length on the A+ dizzy is slightly shorter. To get it to work you need to grind / turn about 1/4" off the thickness of the top flange of the collar that locates the drive shaft in position. Then you need to either file the main hole in the clamp bigger to fit the dizzy body, or turn a little off the dizzy until the clamp fits. The A+ dizzy comes with a different clamp - a forked affair but you don't use that. The end result on mine... MORE
The typical function of a resistor in either the coil as in built in, special resistance wire to the coil or with one in series between the power supply and the coil is this. When the resistor is cold, it passes a lot of current so the cooil will have about full voltage at start up to produce a hot spark. As the resistor heats up, it reduces the amount of power getting through, so instead of a full 12 volts, for example, it now is passing only 9 volts or so. The coil will still produce a full... MORE
Now the paint is finally going on my 1500 I have been sorting though the bits. On inspecting the front suspension what a surprise, it's all shot. play nearly everywhere it should not be. Do any of the owners clubs in the UK still keep the reamer needed to fit the bush and lend it out? (IIRC Dad borrowed one from the local MGOC back in the '70s). Onto another oddity, My car had the horn in the steering wheel, and the indicator stalk was damaged (a sizable piece of the end of it was missing) and it has... MORE
Yep.... You got it big guy!!!! Of course, this assumes a reasonably healthy engine pulling decent vacuum. TWO CAVEATS.... 1) If the engine's clapped out and is pullin' lousy vacuum, the pistons will never "top out", spring tension and fully open butterflies notwithstanding and thus....it follows, that.... 2) the entire induction system has got to be "air tight" as well. You don't need a midget under the hood. You need an SU carb tool kit!!! It comes with a little jet centering tool along with "rods" you place within the piston tubes which temporarily take the place of the... MORE
Hi Group, My latest challenge is the removal of the bolts that fasten the radius arms to the body. I have removed the nuts from the ends of the bolts and am able to rotate the bolts but they cannot be removed. When I hit the end of a bolt it gives no indication of movement. When the bolt turns, the spacers do not turn with it. I'd appreciate another dose of wisdom from cyberspace. With your help I've been able to dispose of all of my previous challenges. Nelson 62 Mk 2 Sprite "witstock7" 32745... MORE
Hi all Looking for some advise. Have a '79 Stock Midget with dual line brake system. Have done work to it in the past year including: Rebuilt master, new rubber hoses all around, good linings, adjusted with nice firm pedal, NO leaks. Brakes seem fine then suddenly pedal goes to the floor with no brakes at all. This happened a few months back so I rebled the system and we have started to drive the car on a more regular basis now. Drove car about 100 mi before it happened. Pedal comes back up to normal with 1 or... MORE
OH...and Jens...I forgot!!! Before you get started on a compression check, DO check the throttle cable hookup and be sure when you put the accelerator pedal fully to the floor the BUTTERFLY is FULLY open! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32706... MORE
Ah HAH.... You may have hit the nail right on the head here, Jens... "If (my engine...tuned or not) cannot SUCK (produce enough vacuum) to open a pair of HS2's....." EXACTLY!!!! It is time to "begin at the beginning", Jens. As in MAJOR tune-up. Step one is checking engine "mechanical health".... with valves properly adjusted...time for a basic compression & leakdown check. Considering recency of engine work, you're looking for 150 or better on compression check and leak-down rates of less than 10%. Remember to hold the butterflies fully open (accelerator pedal fully to the floor) during the compression... MORE
The Purpose of Tools HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing leather goods. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on... MORE
I'm looking at buying a 1976 MG Midget special 57K with the 1500cc engine it has the Webber carb upgrade new starter and alternator but the connecting rod bolt came out and trashed the lower end of the engine they said it need a crank connecting rod and the block needed to be machined. How much would it cost to rebuild vs. replace with new/used engines???? also what are the specs for this engine stock and with the Webber carb kit??? besides that the car is decent shape minor rust (not bad surface only on seams)and there are a... MORE
Another removal challenge. I have removed the nuts from the u-bolts holding the rear spring and the two bolts that are next to each other and closer to the front of my Sprite. In drawings of the spring assembly there is a single bolt shown between the u-bolt and the pair of bolts but all I can see on the car is a hole with something up inside it. I cannot figure out how to remove this bolt since it has no exposed head. This is the same on both sides of the car. I am the original owner... MORE
I had got the two bolts on the outside and the third one at the front of the footwell was so corroded that it came apart itself. The state of that bolt hole has led me to worry a little about putting on the inner sill. I am thinking of just replacing the footwell plate fully so that no more rusty bits are left there. I am going to have to replace the door pillar anyway so may as well do it all!! Abestea "abestea" 32659... MORE
I know Frontline do some alloy panels, but I think it's just bonnet, boot and doors, not wings. You might need to get some specially made, if you really must have them. Talk to the rich racing guys! Not sure where is best for steel wings, but the BMH site shows the suggested price is 240. http://www.bmh-ltd.co.uk/bmhspa.html is a list of the BMH specialists. Regards David "David Jacobs" 32655... MORE
Have you actually got the wing off? as reading you e-mail it would appear you have only taken three of the six bolts that hold the rear part of the wing on!. In the foot well there are (or should be) 4 bolts, three are at the door pillar end of the wing, and there is a fourth at the front of the foot well. Then there is one at the top of the win in the guttering looking down from the top of the car. and there is one final one that you will find a little awkward,... MORE
Hi Paul, - I know what you mean about those door innards! There is actually a sequence to follow when assembling, which makes the process easier and less painful. Problem is when you are just dealing with one item and don't want to strip out more than is absolutely necessary. On the locks I would still advise that you keep the filing of tumblers to a minimum else you will end up with a lock that will turn with a screwdriver. Better to take put the key in, note which tumblers are too long, and which too short. Then... MORE
Hello all - Thanks for everybody's advice on my key `problem'. Looks like I'll be getting my set of files out and having a go with the tumblers. I'll let you all know how I get on. By the way, anybody experienced this? I wound down the window a couple of days ago, but the glass stayed at the top as it had separated from the lower channel. Not an expensive problem to resolve, just time consuming as I had to pretty much take the whole door apart to get the glass back in position after replacing the rubber... MORE
On our old Singer Vogue, we could take the key out of the ignition with the engine still running. In fact, once the whole barrel came out and fell on the floor! With lots of old cars, particularily those still using the original key, the keys become very worn. They work, but there is no way that a duplicate could work! The lock & key wear out together. Margaret So much to do, so few people to do it for me. mmbrock88@... 32634... MORE
