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Thanks Ed, I subscribe to Panda virus protection and it is very good about catching anything in emails and blocking it before it opens. Automatically updates daily so I have the latest information. I am able to see the name of the virus attachment but Panda has stripped the content so it cannot be opened. Being on cable modem I need good virus and firewall protection as I am on line full time. Don "Don May" 23749... MORE
Correct! With a special Golden Jubilee motif and Gold MG Badge on the boot lid. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 23662... MORE
Very rare bonnet built from 1961-1964 in Southern California one of only three known to be left, completely restored, all cracks fixed, new gel coat and painted red. This will fit all Sprites/Midgets (MKII+) with mods, or tilt forward replacement for bugeye. This bonnet was used for racing (have documents)and also comes with custom fabracated alum ducts for radiator and oil cooler. E-mail me for photos or check out my photos in the gallary. $1200.00 with documents including a signed letter from Sir Thomas Denner Contact: Mike Satterfield Email: michaelsatterfield@ hot mail.com Tel: 909-947-8099 Location: Ontario (Southern California) California... MORE
Rare car with Thomas Denner Bonnet. Togther $3500.00 Bonnet alone $1000.00 e-mail for photos, car is RHD, lots of new parts needs paint and wiring. "Michael" 23633... MORE
Cap'n Well you're lucky you didn't have any bodywork to do. The other problem I'm finding in stripping many of the components, is that the welding done very early on eg the door frame, I now consider to be not good enough. My welding, template making and cutting skills have come on such a long way from those early days that I'm having to redo some of the welding I felt at the time was ok, to a standard I'm happy with, this is just making a long chore even longer! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 23620... MORE
Don, Morris Garages The first MG was essentially a slightly "sporty" and very pretty version of the "Bullnose" Morris - as I recall, essentially all Morris parts with some nice touches like racy-looking wings (fenders). Rgds., Tony P. "anthony pooley" 23634... MORE
EEEESH...that would deffinately do a number on the wrists.....working as a paramedic for an ambulance company for 15 years carrying LARGE BODIES (live or otherwise) downstairs takes its toll as well. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210 "Stevens, David" 23622... MORE
Cap'n Well thanks for those kind words of encouragement! I can understand why 'bare metal resprays' cost so much in a pro shop, and why many people opt to merely flat down existing paint and paint over the top. By stripping back to bare metal, you do get the best result possible, but that comes at a price - and that is a lot more stages and a lot more investment in time; and this is just to get the bare metal back to a state that can be sprayed! There's still the spraying, flatting and filling stages to... MORE
Had to fight off some depression yesterday because my wrist joints were hurting so much buy the end of a day of cleaning the engine bay. . . the mind is willing but the old body is protesting and when I think of how much sanding I have to do on the bonnet . . . guess I will have to keep the pain pills handy and an ativan when the going gets really rough. Yours in pain, don Anyone ever noticed why the word paint contains the word pain? Nigel 71 Midget inching closer to its first coats... MORE
After stripping off the front end outer metal work and cleaning the engine compartment I discovered there is a crack in the transmission bell housing. The tab like area at the top of the clutch bell housing where the top two bolts are located has a horizontal crack below them.. It does not appear to be a major structural problem once the transmission bell housing is bolted on as all other areas and bolts are sound. It looks like an easy in place weld job. Is it possible to weld the aluminum housing material? Some PO strangeness as usual... MORE
Guy Again, thanks for this post. I'll take a look in Halfords for some Jenolite. I do have some brushable seam sealer and intend to do all the seams, after the primer coats. I also have some Stoneguard to go on the underneath as well. I'm still working on cleaning the car ready for paint, seems like this stage is going to take forever. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 23594... MORE
Nigel writes: "...seems like this stage is going to take forever". The prep stage does take forever, Nigel. You are not feeling any differently than anyone else who has gone through a thorough refinishing. It does get to be a day after day real drag. But, hang in there my friend......a good paint job is truly in the prep work in terms of long lasting quality results. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23597... MORE
Nigel, I must admit I always have difficulty with finding products that our friends on the list in the States discuss and are so familiar with! Often wish they would explain the proper scientific chemical name rather than brand names like "Marvel Oil" etc. (Marvel in the UK is a dried milk substitute) Anyway, now I am doing it, referring to Jenolite!! Jenolite is an automotive strength Phosphoric Acid. The bottle I have here is a 1 litre bottle I bought in Halfords, manufactured by Bluecol Brands Ltd., Stewart Road, Kingsland Industrial Estate, Basingstoke RG24 0GX Tel 01256 474661... MORE
Guy Thanks for this - most helpful. I did reply to your earlier post but for some reason it didnt go through, and I havent got round to re-doing it. Thanks for the offer of the repair panels, I think we did agree that, unforuntately, I'd already finished the side that they would have fitted and it was in fact the other side repair panels that I needed - comes under the general heading of sod's law I think. So the sequence is - phosphoric acid on the rusty bits, acid etch primer, filler, primer, top coat? Do you... MORE
Nigel, What I know from reading and listening to others: The bare metal can be sealed by applying expoxy primer. Polyester filler / bondo can be applied on top of the expoxy primer! Since filler doesn't seal the metal, moisture CAN get through and makes your shiny metal rust again (even before you started spraying the top-coats...). Area's that are not completely rust free can be primered with some rust-stabilising primer / paint (corroless / owatrol) or phosphoric accid (ospho) before applying the epoxy primer. Advantage of this working order / method is that wet-sanding the subsequent surfacer /... MORE
Etch first, as it is a conditioner for the metal not the filler. Be sure to allow plenty of time for the etch to dry. This gives the primers and fillers a secure surface to adhere to The etch is a chemical reaction to stop corosion. It actually eats into the surface of the metal and becomes part of it. "OSPHO" is an excillant neutralizer for rusted areas that can't be otherwise cleaned. It converts the rust to a black oxide that takes body prep well. Hope this helps all ! "romulus43" 23577... MORE
Hi guys At last I've almost finished the paint stripping/underseal stripping. What a boring, tedious, monotonous job that was! By far the worst I've had to do so far and I'm so pleased its now almost finished. This does now bring into focus the filling/spraying aspect. All of the car has now been taken back to bare metal, and I intend to spray an acid etch primer coat on top of the bare metal, before the primer coats. Now, the question is, should I put filler on before the etch primer or afterwards? Second question is, there is still... MORE
the glass is replaced by removing and disassembling the screen frame (which presumably you'll be doing anyway, if you replace one of the posts) The setscrews holding it to the body are up under the corners of the dashboard. There are three or four phillips head screws at each corner plus the centre stay, holding the frame together. You might find you need to drill out the screws but you can get stainless steel replacements. Try and make a note of which length screws come out of which holes - a problem for the unwary is to put too... MORE
Ok folks I'm new to the MG money pit ! :) I need a windshield post for my 79 MG midget, and can any one tell me how to go about replaceing the glass. The next problem is engine overheating. That is a LONG story but I'm glad to share it with any one willing to listen. Lastly is body work. I need some help here too. I have been able to beat the prince of darkness ( Lucas ) at his own game hahaha. Also anyone out there need a tester for Triumph TR type fuel guages? I... MORE
Bill, I happened to come across this on the Moss web site last week. http://www.mossmotors.com/MemberServices/TechTips/TechTipsArticle.aspx?TechTipID=9&ModelID=50000&SubcompCode=P000 Technical Tips & Assistance AH Sprite/MG Midget << Tech Tips << Categories << Articles Audible Directional Flasher Frank Lindauer Atlanta, GA Here's a tech tip for those of us whose hearing is not what it used to be when we were younger, or those of us who are younger and just can't hear the directional flasher or see the flasher indicator light, especially with a top down in daylight. Since the time delay, even when set at max, does not give a long flashing... MORE
After using some rubbing compound on the new 73 Midget I think I was mistaken on the original color . . . the lighter oxidized paint led me to believe it may be Aconite now that I have rubbed out a test area I think it's actually Black Tulip. Dark purple. A good photo of a Black Tulip car is an MG at: http://www.sportscarwarehouse.com/carofthemonth-october-02.htm Don "Don May" 23557... MORE
The tires rest a bit on the inside slopes of the wheel racks of the dolly but did tie down snugly. A buddy that had towed a midget on a dolly went down with me and things went smoothly. Backed it up on the dolly and locked the steering wheel. Stopped several times on the trip home and all was fine. Feels so good to have finished the paper work hassle and now to have it home at last. As far as U-Haul knows I towed home a 1985, blue, two door, Ford Escort. :-) I have no idea... MORE
Hi Everyone: I am now trying to fit my car's interior back together (it's a 1979 1500 Midget with Russett Brown xterior and what I think is Autumn Leaf interior). I have heard conflicting names for the brownish/russet colored interior that my car came with.can someone tell me how I can determine definitively if its Autumn Leaf (and not Biscuit or Beige or something else)? Also, if anyone is selling any interior vinyl panels in this color I would be interested to buy them. Kinldy contact me off-line. Thanks. Rio rior@... (take out the REMOVE in the middleplease) "Rio... MORE
sorry, the only measurements I have seen are for use with original dealer body checking gauge sets, so you're out of luck unless you happen to have one of those hanging around! You could try marking your own datum points on the centre-line of the car (start by making diagonal lines from fixed points left and right to accurately find the centre) then measure where the shock absorber mounting holes come relative to this centre. One other thing, have you checked the top trunnions to make sure they're the same each side? Regards David "David Jacobs" 23522... MORE
Does anyone have the measurements between the 6 points on the shocks on a 1975 midget. I live in a very small town and the body shops here don't have any type of information on mg's. My midget has more problems than I first thought. I replaced the negative camber bushings in the lower a-arms with a new set of stock ones, checked the distance between the lower a-arms after buying a shop manual from Moss, checked the spindle, and removed and checked the shock mounts to see if they had been played with and still have too much... MORE
