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nice looking machine, and from http://www.geocities.com/fiberfabcars/jamaican.html I learned it even has such features as "Doors that Open" and "Windshield Wipers"! David "David Jacobs" 26667... MORE

the 'MAA' chassis number prefix is either a 1980 model Rolls Royce Phantom VI (honest!) or in BMC terms, the first character, M, is for Morris (we would expect G for MG or H for Austin Healey or A for Austin), the first A is strictly speaking a sub 1200cc engine (ie A series) and the second A is the body type (not sure what 'A' is - though it's definitely not a Spridget which would be N - 2 seat tourer) CKD cars assembled in Australia had different prefixes, (YGGN or YGN) so it's not one of those,... MORE

I had a lister a few months back as me about if I could help them get a bonnet/hood (the metal thing that covers the engine) for a non-Bugeye Sprite. I have forgotten that listers name. If you are in need of a bonnet still, contact me. So I will know who you are, I had mentioned a possible source, if you can tell me who that source was, I will know it is you. I know many folks out there are needing a bonnet minus the rust along the front of the nose. If you need one, send... MORE

Dear List, I have been offered an MG Midget but do not have much data except for few chassis, engine and model numbers. Can someone shed some light on this? year, specs or whatever you can add will be appreciated! The chassis number is MAA 002909, Engine S1104341-A, Model (body?) BMG12. Cheers Martin "Martin Aubert" 26659... MORE

Instead of elbow grease and blasting... A set of wire-brushes for an electronic drill (or more agressive if you like an angle-grinder) can do miracles! OK, it's a bit noisy, dusty, potentially dangerous (these brushes can also eat skin fairly easy...don't ask how I know this!) but cheap and almost as good as blasting. If finished, use a good rust-stabelizing/neutralizing primer to prevent new rust from developing (or directly hammerite as a finish as suggested). Cheers, Eeg. Eeg.Oberije@... 26654... MORE

-RE shot blasting,after a wheel is blasted or any steel a primer wants to be painted on within 20 mins after this time rust will be already starting to form,but you wont se this at the time,but you will when the rust comes back through your nice paint job and the worst type of blasting for this is sand,most blast cleanig firms will put primer on for you if you ask well the good ones will,and on this subject tyres are best removed a good job will not be done with them still on.If the jobs worth doing well... MORE

Tim Blasting and powder coating is the way to go. Just make sure the blasting media used isnt too harsh for the material. San =3D=0D d blasting is gentler than bead or shotblasting. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26644... MORE

Chris Thanks for your input. Natural bodies and black painted arms seem to be the consensus. For longevity's sake I've decided to paint the bodies silver and arms black, so they don't look too yucky in a year or so's time. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26643... MORE

Jeremy I took your advice. I've etch primed the whole body's and will paint the body silver and the arms black. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26642... MORE

Ed You do make me smile and that has to be a good thing :o) I took your advice and enlisted the help of a next door neighbour, and we tackled it together. Me holding the steering rack down and heating the nut and him whacking the locknut with a cold chisel. It still took about 20 mins of heating before it decided to move! The locknut on the other side was so seized solid, it decided to break in half before it would turn! No matter same result - both locknuts off an undamaged TRE's and tie rods.... MORE

Cap'n Thanks for your input. I have (successfully) managed to removed the TRE's undamaged, and there seems no wear in them, so I'll probably be re-using them after a clean up and paint and new rubber gaiters; so the question of new TRE's is not as much of an issue as I previously thought. Knowing the new 'sealed' ones are as good as the old ones is handy to know however. Thanks Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26639... MORE

Listers, The list of projects has grown. The list of attendees has grown. The likelihood that anything good will come of this has grown. To repeat: On November 28 and 29 (post Thanksgiving) there will be a gathering of enthusiastic Spridgeteers in Madison, Wisconsin with the intention of working on several projects on several cars. Some heavy stuff, some fiddley stuff. There will be some food and beverage provided, though the more the better. (hint hint) The event will be web-cast in some fashion. (WST's on that) It would help to have a fairly accurate head count. (please contact... MORE

I wrote the following post thinking about rostyles, but after I looked at the original post I realized you are asking about early steel wheels. Oh well, some of it is still pertinent, so here it is: I've had success using a combination of chemical stripper and sand blasting. I've used the enviro-friendly stripper (letting it sit for three hours) then I hosed off the residue and the remaining paint blasted off quickly at fairly low pressure. I agree that removing the tire it the smart thing to do. Then self etching primer, then a light coat of medium... MORE

If you leave the bodies natural they will look horrid within a year, especially the rears. Frost or Eastwood do what amounts to a metal varnish i.e. a clear coating or you could paint them in aluminium paint or a light coating of 'clear' waxoyl. As the rears are rarely seen I'd be tempted to paint them. The fronts will fair better in the relatively dry anvironment of the engine bay but very minimum I'd wipe them over with oil every so often. "Jeremy Cogman" 26635... MORE

Timster... This IS the way to go...bead blasting (glass)or the finest media you can get so as not to overly "pit" the surface as it's cleaned. Hit them with a metal cleaner and some zinc-phosphate primer then topcoat with a silver of your choice. Or, you can go all the way and have the blasted wheels "powder coated". This costs more but, it's a beautiful, tough, easily cleaned, long-lasting treatment. Alterntively, if not powder coated, a good tough, glossy paint is made by Hammerite. I've used this stuff in the past...it's pretty damn good and is what I would... MORE

Roger Thank you for taking the time to reply, your information is much appreciated. I think I'll leave the body's natural and the arms black. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26623... MORE

I can only speak for my car, a'66 Midget Mk 2. As it originally arrived, the fronts were definitely left natural with the arms painted black, no question. The rears were also natural, but the arms were finished in what I think was probably a red oxide paint. The people who cared, fairly quickly painted them, however, as they seemed to be subjected to a real testing time under the rear wheel arches. "Roger Stinson" 26617... MORE

OK Gang, In my quest for a wider wire wheel, I have found Dayton makes a 13"x5.5" center laced wire wheel. I believe our stock wheels are bead laced? Not a big deal of difference I would think. Now, their direct replcement 4.5" wheels, have a 3.5" back space. The 5.5" wheels have a 3" back space. If my feeble mind is correct, that means an additional 1.5" would be to the outside on the wider wheels. I have a RWA Midget, so it shouldn't be a problem, right? wrong? maybe? I will try and measure tonight, but does... MORE

Hi guys Me again asking stoopid questions : ) Can anyone tell me the original finish on the front and rear lever arm shock absorbers? Were they left in a natural metal state or painted? My front ones are currently in a kind of silver hammered finish on the body and what looks like black on the arm. The rear ones seem to be in the natural metal finish (although covered in a white substance - is that Aluminium Oxide?) and the arms seem so rusty I cant tell what they were finished in. I think the arms were... MORE

you should be able to at the ends of the sill, where the closing plate things fit. David "David Jacobs" 26568... MORE

David I saw those in the parts manual. ummmmmmmm......... how you supposed to afix the threaded plates to the sill =3D=0D when you cant get behind the panel to get a nut on the thread ? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26566... MORE

Terry I've uploaded a photo of my sill clips and put it in my folder on the websi =3D=0D te - Nigel-71-Midget - sillclips Hope it helps Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26564... MORE

Terry I have a batch of those clips, they seem to work ok for me, I pop rivetted =3D=0D one onto piece of scrap steel and tried up the sill strip and it seemed to hold =3D=0D it in position. If I get time this evening, I'll take a photograph of one of the clips and =3D=0D post it in my folder for you to look at. Don't know enough about lever arm shocks to help you on that one. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26550... MORE

(I just know I am going to get blasted for this, but...:):) Which article, Ed. What's it under 'cause I just went to your website to have a look (cause I'm about to replace an A-frame myself) and couldn't locate anything under "articles". Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26553... MORE

Hi Trying to put the 'chrome' strip back on the sill of 1972 midget using new retaining clips. The ones supplied are far too small and fail to retain th e strip, good job I tried them first before pop riveting them to the sill. Anyone else had this problem or is this just a bad batch of clips. I get them from a local MG bit and pieces enthusiasts shop, think they come from same source as MGOC. I got an original BMC workshop manual for Midget/Spri te for =A310 from him yesterday. Just had to re exchange... MORE