MAIN
Body
Previous Page | Next Page
Ahh but his is the nub of the matter, is that always the quickest way? Yes you can do some 2g braking just before you turn in but all the weight will be on the front of the car, your rears will have probably locked and you'll lurch through the corner at a slower speed and less optimum line than someone going in balanced from some gentle braking. Different on the track maybe (and I'm not sure we've established this is not a track car) but on the road then smooth is the way. Ref. Jackie Stewart and his... MORE
I think we need a little more detail. However a weird thing you need to know is what happens at each end. The rear of the seal comes off the seem and is trapped behind the rear trim panel, much cheaper than the fancy moulding used on later cars. The front end disappears under the dash though I can't remember how it is held. "Jeremy Cogman" 23241... MORE
Thanks for the reply. It's very hard for me to explain what I need to know. The seal I purchased from Moss Motor clips over the ridge that runs from front to back on the area of the door opening on the main body. It is a system that to spread apart and slip over this ridge. Only troube is that once you do this the seal will not stay in place. That's the best I can explain it. Zegrod53@... 23242... MORE
I have a 61 Bugeye and need instructions on how to properly install door seal on my cas. So far I have gained nothing but frustration in my attempts to do this. Anyone have any suggestions. Thanks "bucks6125" 23236... MORE
You know, from one rust removal project to another. Sold my 63 midget last week to a friend who fell in love with it. Working on the bugeye bonnet from hell, determined to bring it back to life. The 74rwa is looking good and running well, can't bring myself to use it for the bugeye bonnet project so . . . I am going into another stage of insanity . . . buying a another 73 rwa to put it on. There goes the money from the 63 . . . As you see things are going along quite... MORE
Well....obviously, RBH! And, good to have you baaaak, fully erect of course. Let me know if you want any tips on Corvettes. I know a fellow who works at Sports & Classics building a convertible Sting Ray in their back yard. Does his own engine work, fibreglass and paint... real talented young adult!! Good taste in paint color, too....deep metallic blue with a little purple thrown in..beautiful! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23209... MORE
Nigel, Most guages that are wired are nothing but "volt meters" re marked to read temperature, tank levels. They are powered by the car electrical system through some for of a potentiometer. In a 12 volt system, full voltage is sent to the potentiometer, and depending on the design of the "pot" the voltage supplied will be increased or decreased as the potentiometer actuator is moved (via float in a fuel tank sending unit). You should be able to attache the leads of a volt meter to one wire from the guage and the other to chassis ground and... MORE
I happened to have a sender unit out of the 69 midget and measured the resistance with it removed from the tank. It reads roughly from 20 to 250 ohms as the float goes from empty to full position. Now mine was not working correctly so I took it apart and discovered a weak point. Inside the case the arm of the float unit connects to the wiper blade that moves across the wirewound resistance surface. To assure good contact of the arm to the case/chassis there is a spring that presses against the inside of the case. The... MORE
Eeg Nope, not used any weld-through primer, as per your experience of it, I've heard it doesn't work too well. I do coat the inside of each panel with primer, leaving enough bare metal to weld to, before I weld them in. As far as seams are concerned, I intend to coat each one with brushable seam sealer after i've applied a few coats of primer. All box sections will then be protected with waxoyl. I think this will be enough to keep rust at bay for a good few years. I'm actually doing a full bare-metal re-spray, ie... MORE
Hi Nigel, Glad to see you are making progress at last! I see you have had a bit of welding to do - - - not quite as much as I had on my '71, but not far short! I never heard back from you if you wanted those 2 repair panels, but see that you did replace the door hinge units both sides. You could have had that one of mine you know. Still on offer (postage only) is the front wing lower corner repair if you want it. Next stage with mine was to get it blasted,... MORE
Eeg I've just completed this on my car for both sides, and both ends. You're right they don't fit particularly well, but a little gentle adjustment with a hammer usually fixes that : ) One side of my car was easier than the other, I think that was more due to the fact I'd learnt from doing the previous side. I'm afraid to say this, but if you're having real problems getting those sill end plates to fit, something's not right either with the inner sill position/outer sill position or outer rear bulkhead position. I had a lot of... MORE
Hi guys You may have noticed I've been rather quiet regarding posts to the list lately, thats soley because I've been beavering away on the Midget restoration, and making the most of the good weather. I'll bring you up to date on where I am. I'm glad to say that about 90% of the structural welding is now complete and includes two new floorpans, two new inner and outer sills, two new inner footwell side panels, two new lower hinge repair sections and outer covers, two new lower rear inner and outer wing repair sections, localised repairs to both... MORE
When you operate the starter, do the lights dim? If so check your battery. When the ignition switch contacts failed on another of my cars, I removed the cowl and put a jumper across the two terminals on the back of the switch after looking at the wiring diagram to establish which colours the relevant wires were. (Workshop Manual) Another indicator that the switch is going (although different contacts) is that the engine will miss a few beats, particularly when the engine is pulling, for example up hill, leading to a bit of Kangerooing. This is usually caused by... MORE
Good point Bob. These cars have two numbers, a chassis or VIN number (VIN wasn't a term that was used then) which is on the documents and the chassis plate in the engine bay. They also have a body number which is on a tag in the door jamb (where the hinges are) and somewhere else that I can't remember. Nobody has mentioned that the VIN number is NOT the number in the door jams. Bob, Troutdale, OR jeremy.cogman@... 23151... MORE
Look at lots of cars then you'll get a feel for price. If you are not sure then once you feel you have a good candidate then pay for an inspection. Remember that mechanical faults are much easier / cheaper to fix that structural ones. As long as the car is sound then you can improve it but with a shoddy body you are always fighting against the tide. Check out the adverts on the Midget and Sprite Club page at www.mgcars.org.uk It's worth taking your time to find the right car. You could also go along to some... MORE
Nobody has mentioned that the VIN number is NOT the number in the door jams. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 23148... MORE
Hi everyone Things have not gone quite to plan... My intended midget has been ditched. I was going to pay a fair bit for it, and having spoken to several people (including a guy from the MG Car Club's Midget Register) should have got a good car for my money. On further inspection, the one I was going to have had a mileometer that didn't move, doors that didn't lock, an oil leak, VIN number that didn't match the documents and so on, so I've hung on to my cash and will keep looking for a car slightly nearer... MORE
I forgot to add a 'welcome to the list', Erich. someone on the list can probably help you narrow down the approximate age of your 'new' car with a little bit of detective work, for example, has it got wind-up windows or sidescreens? 948/1098/1275 or 1500 engine? combined brake/clutch master cylinder or separate? single or dual circuit brakes? chrome or rubber bumpers? if chrome, are they wide or narrow? is the hood a packaway type or fastened to the back of the cockpit? and so on. Any single one of these features won't necessarily give the whole story, as... MORE
Thanks David, It really is a mess of a car, it looks like a Mk III but previous owner/ owners were very creative. It has the chrome strip down the hood/bonnet and down the sides and it also has the sill chrome strips and the Midget badges on the sill????? I think they liked chrome.... Wind-up windows and a fixed top at the back like my 1275. It has no engine, so I've been toying with the idea of doing something craz y with it. Anyone have a spare Honda S2000 engine? "Erich Maybaum" 23124... MORE
it's just a case of 'adjusting' with hammer and dolly till you get as good a fit as possible. It's not good practice, but you can force them to take up the profile of the sill using lots of clamps etc while you weld. If the car is on its side or upside down, it's reasonably straightforward to seam weld them in position. You *can* get 'weld-through' primer to paint before you fit them, and once welded, brush on seam-sealer to seal the gaps and spray the inside with Waxoyl or similar. Regards David "David Jacobs" 23105... MORE
Electric Windows???? How much torque and HP do you think you are dealing with here? And your life is not complicated enough, already? Heh, heh, heh, heh!! Simply reposition the winder upon it's shaft (per another lister's excellent advice) and stay with the KISS principle....you'll be glad you did! :) (When Frank C.'s electric windows fail, he just gets another set of doors off one of his other cars and begins all over again!!:) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23102... MORE
List, I'm getting closer and closer to welding in a new (left hand side) outer sill. During preparations I noticed that the sill closing plates don't fit very accurately to the sill! (Especially in the curved area's). I might be able to dress them up a bit to achieve a better fit. Does any of you have some tips / tricks concerning the fitting of the closing plates? How to prevent rust after fitting them with quite some gaps / spaces? (Painting that area upfront isn't an option since they have to be welded in place) Could I best... MORE
Morning folks. This is sort of a poll to get an idea of what Spridgets are currently the most collectable / desired and their current market value. Realizing of course you can't really put a price on insanity . . . uh . . . I mean spridget love / masochism. We have all suffered a few of their engineering quirks. Seems to me that the bugeye / frogeye tops the list bringing the highest prices. The 72 - 74 RWA seem to be next on the most sought after with premium prices over other square body models. Where... MORE
G'day guys Don't complain about the weather. You could be having an "English Summer" - where the ambient temperature is 1 degree above body temperature. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 23053... MORE
But of course in the UK most of these have different names, and some - like the "sidemarker lamps" don't exist at all! And a "quarter light" as in the original thread topic, is nothing to do with Mr Lucas. The term light refers to a window or pane of glass - as in Elizabethan buildings with "leaded lights", "skylights", "fanlight", "borrowed lights" etc. Remember these are LBCs. Actually, I think everyone should stick with the British naming of parts and drop all references to hoods when you mean bonnets, rotors when you mean discs, fenders when you mean... MORE
