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Guy Well I haven't used it all yet! I've still got about 3/4's of the 5 l can remaining, but I still have to do the whole of the bonnet, 1 door and a few bits and bobs. I wasn't going to do the whole thing with a 5 l can, and as I said - I could buy the 5 l can for the price of 3 x 1l cans - so went that way - I don't mind if theres plenty left over for touch ups. The other reason is because I had a slight mishap, which... MORE
You've all been sniffing too many paint fumes, you're all mad. Nigel ;) "amukdigiphoto" 28752... MORE
Duncan I'm not that familiar with the term 'lacquer' as far as I'm aware it covers pretty much all car paints, as they're all a form of lacquer. What I think you mean is Nitro-celullose Laqcuer, commonly referred to as just 'cellulose' and if you do mean this then yes, thats pretty much your only option for spraying at home. (some bright spark trying to be clever will probably come up with alternatives, but in practical terms 'cellulose' is your only option for spraying at home). The other commonly used paint in the auto industry, in fact its the... MORE
Yes, Jim.... You are correct. We did in fact replace the front yoke with a Rivergate unit and no, we did not rebalance the driveshaft and no, it did not require it as we experienced no unusual vibration after 5 speed installation with the new aforementioned yoke. Then, we have Guy Weller's post on this as well which we did not have the benefit of before. All the above having been said, when there is a choice I will stay with the original line up of parts as the car came from the factory unless there is a reason... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 5:50 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not that familiar with the term 'lacquer' as far as I'm aware it covers pretty much all car paints, as they're all a form of lacquer. What I think you mean is Nitro-celullose Laqcuer, commonly referred to as just 'cellulose' and if you do mean this then yes, thats pretty much your only option for spraying at home. (some bright spark trying to be clever will probably come up with alternatives, but in practical terms 'cellulose' is your... MORE
Trev... Used acrylic enamel with a polyurethane hardner on my old PO'd MGB 30 years or so ago. Followed directions in a Peterson "How to Paint...." softcover manual. Came out beautifully, lasted forever. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28765... MORE
Jim- It really was easy. After I had the rear support set up, I actually lifted the car ever so slightly with the floor jack under the diff. This took the weight off the attachment points, and away I went. Not to be a smart ass, but please don't forget the brake lines, emerg brake cable, fuel line and prop shaft. Once it is out, it is fairly easy for two people to lift it onto a set of horses for attention at a comfortable working level. I did a full restoration this way, including painting. By the way,... MORE
My rear end has never dropped.....but my wife's has. Jokes aside....I removed mine as a unit. Used a 4x4 across the back behind the fuel tank, supported by jack stands. Placed floor jack under diff and lowered it while having person on each side steady it. Was really quite easy. Wouldn't do it any other way! Paul "dfwip" 28728... MORE
Me Too . . . Bought my mig welder and Portable garage there and lots of other things. The Portable garage is great and on sale now. Gave me a much needed dry space for the winter and . . . makes a great paint booth. Don "Don May" 28746... MORE
Hi guys, I am looking to start my paint job soon :-) I am not that versed in paint types but I believe that lacquer is my only real choice for a home job. Is this correct or are there other better choices? Also if anybody can recommend a good supplier in the US that keeps the original colors, tartan red in particular then it would be much appreciated. Thanks Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 28730... MORE
They're gonna getchu Don May. It's only a question of time...heh, heh, heh (dirty little "Newman laugh"). Not so bad when the garge is not attached to the house but in a case where it is, you know the little suckers who witnessed the execution of their buddies can easily get under the door and into the house while you're sleeping!!! (maniacal) heh, heh, heh, heh!! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28722... MORE
Hi all, One warning: The rear axle is indeed quite heavy...So supporting the car at the rear under the boot-floor is the best option when you have the car already stripped. When you support the car at the front mounting points of the rear suspension (as suggested by haynes) in this situation you could get an unpleasant surpise... Don't ask how I know this...now the stands are under the boot floor, which is a bit more stable. Best regards, Eeg. "eegoberije" 28715... MORE
G'day Steve No, moving the slave cylinder will make no difference, just like shortening the pushrod will make no difference. (See disclaimer below.) You are dealing with hydraulics here. A push of X" at the pedal will result in movement of Y" at the slave cylinder. Moving the slave cylinder will result in the internal piston being at rest in a different position down the bore of the cylinder, but the distance the piston travels when you hit the pedal will not change. Disclaimer: UNLESS you move the cylinder (or shorten the pushrod) to the point where the piston... MORE
Abestea I think it depends a little on which bits you want, but the whole of the front chassis is available as an 'assembly', but I'm sure you can get the individual bits of the assembly, specially as Heritage are remaking the body shells. It really is useful to get one of the Moss 'Parts Manuals' which contains part numbers and prices for every single part you would ever need. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 28698... MORE
Hi all, I am requiring some information about the front chassis assembly of a 1500 '76 midget. I know that you can get the chassis legs but are the rest of the components available separately? I am going to contact the spares places tomorrow to find out from them but i thought i would ask all the night owls out there to give myself a head start. Thanks in advance. Abestea "abestea" 28695... MORE
Jim, I think Nigel & I use much the same system, although I would remove the whole lot, axle and springs as a single unit. It is easy enough for one person to manage. Jack the car up and support on axle stands close to, but not obstructing, the mounting plates for the front end of the rear springs. Use a timber support to spread the load if you can, but it isn't really essential. Get it reasonably high enough to give working space underneath. Support the axle on a trolly jack under the centre point of the diff.... MORE
Jim When I worked on mine there were two places I put them, but I used a length of stout timber to spread the loads across the width of the car. The first place was just inside, (towards the middle of the car) or just forwards from where the forward spring hangers mount to. The second was to the left and right of the boot floor (when my petrol tank was removed). So I guess in your situation, I'd be putting them just inside, or just forward of the forward spring hanger mounts with a length of timber running... MORE
G'day guys All this discussion on crunching clutches just woke up my tired brain to something I had forgotten. The diaphram clutch as fitted to 1275cc and 1500cc cars is very sensitive to the amount of travel. They actually need LESS travel to release than the earlier spring clutch. That's one of the reasons the slave cylinder is 1" and not 7/8". Larger bore = less travel. If you have TOO MUCH travel at the clutch end, the diaphram plate will go over-centre, and crush the driven plate back onto the flywheel. I have seen this happen a few... MORE
My God, how old is the U-2? It does not seem practical to keep something that old in the air. I can't remember the year but it is so long ago that I can hardly remember good old Frances Gary Powers. Seriously, to keep it up and safe, do they have to completely re build them, like replace all wiring, rivets, panels, new Heritage shell, etc? Are they still building them new? Bob in San Diego "60 is not old.........if you are a tree!" "Robert D. Gardner" 28661... MORE
G'day guys. No argument - helicoil (or whatever) the holes. Two good reasons. 1.. One of the shock holes has a steel sleeve (that has already been mentioned) and the shock can be too weak to mount properly of you have 1/2" holes. 2.. A properly executed helicoiled hole is stronger than original. Firstly, the bolt now screws into a stainless steel helicoil, not a mild steel plate. And secondly, the securing thread is the helicoil, now probably 7/16" not the original 3/8", and the larger diameter thread takes more load. Next to my workshop is a guy who... MORE
Worked for me on the 1500 this weekend is all I can say.. although I may have omitted the pilot holes, letter all lined up nice on a straight edge after. they best method is probably to retain that section of the original sill though. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 28648... MORE
Stewart Nice theory, not so good in practice! The problem with the sill badge holes is that they have to be bang on exact, otherwise the letters end up looking wonky. There's very little tolerance in getting them out of position. I drew out the exact hole positions using the letters as guide (I'm a Graphic Designer by vocation so you would think I'd be good at this) on piece of tracing paper on a drawing board - tranferred this to a peice of scrap steel, punched through the holes, drilled the holes and tried the letters in the... MORE
I seem to remember a question being posted about marking the holes to be drilled for the 'MIDGET' letters on sills. this is how I did it. Found a firnd with Midget with the badges fitted. Take badges off sill. Take a sheel of cartrige paper and tape it flush to the botom flange of the sill Fold paper round sill to cover the holes for the badges Push badges back on pearcing through the paper. Meauer the distance front the front fach of teh sill to the paper. Take off car now move it to the new sill,... MORE
That's odd, because I have removed the guage, cappiliary tube and bulb complete, from my cars on more that one occasion. The bulb just fits through the hole in the firewall (after removing the rubber gromet). Guy "Guy Weller" 28634... MORE
So.... If a DFPO had stripped all 3 front shock mounting holes, drilled and tapped them to 1/2", and drilled out the shock holes to match, (and you need to replace the shocks otherwise) would you.... a) Replace the shocks and drill the replacements? (there are good reasons to NOT do this, shock-wise) b) Heli-coil (or whatever brand) the holes in the frame back to 3/8"? Is that safe? c) Do it right by welding in new plates? (we'd rather not go that far into the project at this time) Suggestions welcome. Thanks Peter C. "Peter C." 28615... MORE
