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79 Midget, quick question: Does anyone know the type of fitting that goes into the back of the master and slave cylinder? Back story: Car was running great, shifting just fine, 68k on the odo, One day clutch goes almost to the floor, next day it goes right to the floor, no pressure at all. topped off Master cylinder, press pedal, fluid goes all over bellhousing and tranny. Bummer. Moss wants $50 for a replacement hose, but I work at a place with a large selection of hoses, fittings, etc. Are the fittings Flared, or some mutant British type?... MORE
I am looking at redoing my 74 Midget carpeting to include the trunk. However, I can't find biscuit carpeting for a 74. Are 75-on trunks that much different? Or on another note, how difficult in your expert opinion(s) would it be to make a trunk carpet for an MGB fit a Midget? "Mike" 36087... MORE
I have one origonal speaker and an origonal radio installed in the radio console under the dash in front of the gearshift. I can hear it over the engine just fine, but my knee kept hitting the volume knob so that now the rado functons but I have to jiggle the knob to get it working. I just installed two more speakers in holes placed in the masonite bulkhead behind the seats (the one that forms a barrier between the trunk and the cabin) that were cut before I owned it. That seems like a good place but It... MORE
No, Ed. It's not a myth. I am an electrochemist, and I've made my living in that field since 1964. I've published articles in peer reviewed journals, and I am certified by the American Electroplater's and Surface Finisher's Society. I have served on ASTM panels writing recommended metal finishing practices, and I am certified to give legal testimony as an expert witness in this field. Here's a quickie explanation. In order to oxidize metals, a positive ion has to form, that is Fe has to convert to Fe+2 in order to form iron oxide (rust). When you impose a... MORE
It's not a big deal to change pos ground to neg ground. It's also a good idea, since it will slightly reduce corrosion of the body. You can then install whatever stereo turns you on. The speakers can be mounted in the panel at the back of the cockpit. "joe blxfstz" 36067... MORE
No...there's been mail, Bree. Isettaperson told everyone who didn't understand what he was doing to his Frogeye to go to hell ('cause he knows exactly the what and why of what he's doing) and we discussed fibreglass bonnets of different sorts on Frogs and Spridgets. So once again, apparently your set-up (or ISP) is out to lunch!! Cap'n Bob '60 Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 36060... MORE
Thanks Jim, But the 4x2 will be screwed to the end of the scissor jack to stop it slipping. But i may go with your idea and brace the doors. I am removing the hole wing and replacing them with new ones. Cheers Ian "mandy716412" 36052... MORE
nothing a set of new wings, front panel and bonnet won't fix, get the front looking right again. The real Twinnis were road legal, John Cooper nearly killed himself in one on some bypass somewhere as I remember. Also twin engined cars can't be illegal on the road, or the Pruis and Insight would never be allowed as both are twin engined. In fact most cars have two engines capable of making them move! Stewart "Ford Prefect" 36038... MORE
Well.... haven't tried this myself but no reason why it shouldn't work as advertised. I don't know whether the "competition" or mechanical race distributor curve is still available but certainly, the "40819" Cooper S curved mechanical dizzy should be right at home in this environment I would think. Emissions laws vary from state to state here in the US. In CT, they don't check under the hood unless a car doesn't pass. Then you better have everything hooked up and operational as well or your registration will ultimately be denied. Once the car reaches the ripe old age of... MORE
"Redneck" is an attitude, not a location...it's the world wide effort to...to...well, use up the total supply of duct tape and rattle can spray paint...to go only part way on a project... Wow, sounds like me!!! "Jim" 36032... MORE
THanks for all your help I am going to remove both rear wings and replace them. I managed to get a new passenger side one for =A325 but still need a new drivers side. I have a secondhand one which i will play with but i would prefer a new one. The doors i was goning to remove to restore allthough not that bad. Where can i get the strip that goes along the top of the rear wings I notice the one i will be removing will not be saved. "mandy716412" 36017... MORE
The strength of the bodyshell is in the sills, bulkheads, transnission tunnel, and to a lesser extent in the floors. Removing the doors and front fenders has no effect, and the rear fenders very little. However if by "taking the car apart, you mean replacing the structural parts, you will have to brace it before you start cutting. i think most people temporarily weld braces across the door openings, and maybe side to side across the car. Depends what you're going to cut out. "joe blxfstz" 36016... MORE
Ian - I do not believe the doors, or any other piece bolted to the car, are structurally necessary or else, over time, you would not be able open the doors due to body sag. I refuse to warranty this statement, but as long as you support the frame in a fashion similar to the suspension, the frame should not sag with the doors removed. Case in point - I have had my Midget on stands in the front for some time now and I can open and close the doors without a problem. If the body had any... MORE
Hi all, I want to raise the midget of the ground on axle stands and remove the doors and rear wings. I have removed the interior so i can brace it with a piece of 4 x 2 but was wondering if anyone had a better way. I dont want the car to collapse in the middle once i start taking it apart. I have visions of the hole car sagging and the doors not going back on etc. My idea is to get a piece of 4x2 and a sissor jack, place the 4x2 in the middle of... MORE
I'm so proud of myself...I'm sitting here patting myself on the head because I can't reach my back. After nearly a year of my poor little car sitting on jack stands with the front end in the air, I finished the assembly of the front end with poly bushings, new lever shocks and springs. I had to replace one "A" arm due to wear from the folcrum pin...if you don't do any other maintenance on your car, make sure you lube the front end regularly!!! I also installed a lowering kit with the new coil springs - it was... MORE
Line up the mark with the engine off, then make some new marks on top with a few dabs of white paint. "joe blxfstz" 35990... MORE
I rebuild mine and consider myself a C- mechanic. After jacking up the R side, it is accessed thru the large rubber plug on the R side of the tunnel. For me it was just time consuming since you'll have to bleed afterwards. One trick I used was to put a piece of plastic wrap (rubber banded) around the top of the master before you open the bleed nipple on the slave, as this will keep most of the fluid in the system instead of on your garage floor. You will still have to bleed the system, but at... MORE
Brad, I do the same thing with possums. They are so butt ugly..like ugly large rats. I usually trap them and re locate. Actually, it is a real challenge because I use the same technique they used in cartoons when I was a little kid. I take a cardboard box, put a rock on the top for weight, take a pencil and prop it up, put some cat food in the back and tie some black thread to the pencil bottom and stretch it across the rear of the box so he trips it at the food. Works quite... MORE
Hi Abestea, The inner sill connects to the outer sill at the bottom. There should be no gap. The floor panel then attaches to the lower part of the inner sill. Your inner sill should be near vertical and flat. I guess your end filler pieces are to blame here. If you have both sills removed at once (big no no) the body will definitely sag and you will have to jack it back into position to ensure its straight and door gaps are good. If you can once you get it jacked up and with good gaps, fit... MORE
Frequently, people jack and adjust the alignment to the doors fit perfectly, then carefully weld a piece of pipe or angle iron from the front of the door opening to the rear, just tack it in, on both sides and then form an "X" from the front of one door opening to the rear of the other door opening and visa versa. Would not hurt to tack these two pieces together where the "X" crosses also. Then before doing anything else, re measure and or fit the doors in place to double check a perfect fit. With out the... MORE
"The Modern Toolbox" Hammer - In ancient times a hammer was used to inflict pain on ones enemies. Modern hammers are used to inflict pain on oneself. Screwdriver - The drink ordered at the local bar after you call in a professional repairman to undo the $500 in damage you did while trying to change out a tail light socket in your newly painted car with your handy screwdriver. Phillips Screwdriver - The bar drink that you order when the damage estimate is over $1,000. Contains twice the vodka. Pliers - A device used to extend your reach the... MORE
It has sagged more with the sills off but there was some sagging before i removed the old sills. The doors were not lining up properly when i got the car. I have done a combination of jacking the car under the floor and jacking up the top of the bulkhead to get the alignment correct. This is no easy feat as it required a lot of patience to get it right! As the car sits at the moment, there is still a bit of sagging probably happening as the inner sill is only attached to the car at... MORE
Hi All, As i slowly rebuild my 76 Midget, i have come across a slight dilema. I am about to put the Outer sill on to the car but when i line it up and clamp it in place the top of the outer and inner sills meet up perfectly but at the bottom the sills are apart by about 2 cm (3/4" in old money). It just does not seem right. Should they meet up at the bottom? When i removed the sill there was not this gap. I am unsure whether the previous owner had the sill... MORE
RBH, You are a master of explanations as well as BE crazy. My rubber bumper car was converted to disc wheels and no bumpers at all. The rear end IS the tricky part. I considered two approaches:1) Have a body shop do it or 2)take a mold of my buddy's RWA section under the tail lights and make up a fiberglass piece to replace the flattened area. Use the folded over metal in the flat area to secure the new pieces and bondo 'em in. There isn't as much material removed on the rubber bumper cars as it appears... MORE
The front end is the easy part, it's the back end that's hard to do properly, as it involves cutting the rear panel out. I have seen a few that have been half done and the back of the car looks awful, would look better with the rubber bumpers still on. If you want one with chrome bumpers on buy one that was made that way!, you won't save any money carving up a RB midget. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 35864... MORE
