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Jim, - I agree with Nigel, I would not have called those the Fulcrum Pins, but then I am also in the UK. But, now we agree what we are talking about.... The pin part itself is shouldered so that you cannot over compress the rubber bushes by overtightening. The nut needs to be tightened until the large washers contact that pin shoulder. The nyloc nuts are a good idea so that they don't work loose. The large washers also have a step in the outer edge which must fit snugly into the hole in the chassis brackets, otherwise... MORE
hey unfortunately a relocation out of the country is frocing me to sell my 75 midget. the car is in good body shape with one small dent behind the license plate and a small tear around the jack hole on the drivers side. i have the title. the engine is all there but we took it apart and it needs lots of work. i was going to get another engine and put it in there but lack of time does not permit. the interior is there but its dirty and the head rests have no vinly on them. this... MORE
Jim Not with you on this one. The fulcrum pin is the threaded pin that screws into the narrow end of the A frame (Wishbone) through the stubaxle kingpin. There is no nut holding it in place, and no there isn't a torque limit for it. Do you mean the inner wishbone pivot pin? This holds the arms of the A frame (wishbone) to the car and these do have a nyloc nut, but I'm not sure if there is a torque setting for them, I didn't torque them up on mine. Otherwise I'm at a loss to understand... MORE
A 74 rwa Midget, A 73 rwa Midget with a 60 sprite bugeye bonnet, and a 69 Midget sort of restorable parts car . . . doomed. Saw a bumper sticker today . . . "If ignorance is bliss why aren't there more happy people?" Don "Don May" 29997... MORE
TJ, After I removed the seats I am now faced with the same project you are doing, scraping the rust from the floor pans. Not high on my list of fun projects. The forward foot well areas had heavy coats of undercoating under the carpet and did not rust but under the seats I have some clean up to do, no serious rust areas but some and needs to be cleaned and painted. Trust you are on the road soon. Don "Don May" 29965... MORE
Yeah, I made the mistake of coating the foot well in paint thinner before I started scraping again last night. I feel kinda dumb today. It's raining here as well today, thankfully I have a couple of weeks until the Midget will be ready for the road. Unfortunatly, it looks like another weekend at work, thus taking away more time that could be better spend being more productive on the car. (Anyone know of a company in the midwest looking to hire a VERY high end geek?) TJ "TJ Tryon, Jr." 29946... MORE
I am fitting new seels to my dual master cylinder and are wondering which way the end bit in the clutch cylinder goes. At the very far end of the return spring is a metal cup and inside this cup there should go a smaller rubber cup (shaped as a cup). The one i took out had turned around on its side thats why i am wondering which way to fit the new one. Is the bottom of the cup facing forward (ie towards the firewall) or backward, it looks like it will fit either way. Jens Jens P.... MORE
The weather report predicts rain for the next five days. I briefly contemplate slashing my wrists then figure going to the shop and sorting nuts and bolts is a better alternative. That done worked up my resolve to repair and clean the bugeye/73RWA project seats before I spray them with black vinyl dye. Unbolted them and took them into my wee shop where I get high on Acetone, Tetrahydrofuran, Diethyl Hexyl Phthalate, Methanol, Toluene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Propylene Glycol, Monomethyl Ether Acetate, Ethyl Acetate and Xylene. The labels on the Vinyl Sealant and Lacquer Thinner cans informs me "Reports... MORE
Possibly, but I think the problem is not that the clamp is at the wrong angle, but that the header rail is. Because the screen and the header rail are curved, if the rail is canted rearwards then it also becomes too tight to either side of the screen, without clamping up properly towards the centre. The practical solution is to drive with the hood down! Guy "Guy Weller" 29921... MORE
Duncan I've just finished renovating my hood frame. I decided not to strip it back to bare metal like most of the other parts I've done, but to just give it a thorough rub down and coat of primer. The joint areas were the biggest pita, with paint not adhering correctly, but I fixed that with rubbing them all down again and spot priming them with etch primer. Then finished it with 3 coats of gloss black - looks pretty good now. I then spot riveted back the upper hood material 'stays' and the inner 'pop studs' - looks... MORE
interesting theory Guy, but if it's true, wouldn't 'adjusting out' the wear in the frame pivots make it even harder to get the clamps engaged? As they stand now, the worn pivots will allow the clamps to go further in the direction they naturally want to. Regards David "David Jacobs" 29905... MORE
If you want to drive the car now, with the hood up, get it into a garage, and either put a heater inside or use a hairdryer to soften the viny, then with two people sitting in the car like up the clamps, and both close them at the same time. Me, I very rarely have the hood up. I just don't take her out if there is heavy rain. If it rains while I am out, it's OK, as I have a nice warm flying jacket!! (present from hubby many years ago!) So I stay nice and warm,... MORE
Margaret (and others) I am pretty sure that this alsao has something to do with wear in the pivot points and hinges of the frame. This is why I think this... When you operate the clamps on the header rail it has the effect of tilting the front hood rail backwards so that it contacts the metal of the header rail rather than sitting squarely on top of the rubber seal. This is aggrivated by overtight hood fabric, but more significantly by worn pivot points, particularly in the short metal arms that screw to the header rail. I am... MORE
From: Guy Weller [mailto: Guy.Weller@... ] Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 3:51 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] Hood rubbers/seals No, because what is happening is that the clamps pull the header rail down onto the top of the screen at the wrong angle, - sort of tilted backwards. One symptom of this is the tendancy for the little lug of the clamp to try and jump to the wrong (front) side of the narrow upstand on the rear edge of the screen top rail. Adjusting the wear out of the pivot points means that the header rail is... MORE
I forgot to mention, The impact beam and front bumper really create a safety barrier on your car.(they really work) By removing these you will risk injury in the event of a frontal impact. Now having said that, the Winners circle "fat" flared 1500 nosed kit really looks good when both the front and rear are flared and larger 16" rims are used. Grrrrrrr! I always prefered the one piece front end to the seperate fenders and bonnet. I have used fiberglass panels for decades and never gave it any thought, Just my preferances. Just dont get hit. Best... MORE
My Mk3 Midget, (Ava) has the same problem. The hood is very difficult to clamp down. Sometimes it takes two of us to do it. It's a lot better now than it was 10 years ago when I had the rebuild. New body shell, original hood frame, new hood. It's also easier when the weather is warmer, and I daren't even think about putting the hood up in winter. I've broken too many nails to try that again!! Margaret South Lincolnshire (UK) "May you be in Heaven half an hour before the Devil knows you're dead" mmbrock88@... 29889... MORE
Chris, yes, they're listed as the same part for Bs and Midgets, though the part number is a different one now from the one in the old factory parts book, so it's possible they're not exactly as they used to be. Mine has been really tight since it was fitted about 10 years ago - I keep hoping the hood will stretch and get easier to get the clips fastened, but I've come to the conclusion it's not going to now! I think careful adjustment can make it better though. Regards David "David Jacobs" 29876... MORE
Hi, My gas pedal often sticks (does not return all the way back). I can usually fix it by tapping it a bit but sometimes I have to quickly hook it with my shoe to get the revs back down to idle speed. I have determined that this problem is caused by corrosion on the floor hinge rather than a problem with the throttle springs, cable or the bent rod between the cable and the pedal. I have improved the pedal's action somewhat by applying oil and wd40 to the hinge and by excersizing the pedal to try and... MORE
Brad What kind of money are you talking about to buy a relatively 'rust free' 62 =3D=0D body tub in the US? And what would the ship costs be to the UK? I reckon =A31,000-=A31,500 would probably do it. I think you may have a good point - buying a sound rust free tub from the U =3D=0D S and bringing it over may well be the best option - it has to be cheaper tha =3D=0D n having the repairs done here to the existing bodyshell. It's come to something hasn't it - when its cheaper to buy... MORE
Are the door and ignition keys supposed to be keyed the same (or where they originally)? TJ "TJ Tryon, Jr." 29865... MORE
G'day all Good point Alan. Sprites and Midgets (and many other BMC cars) were assembled here by the Austin Motor Company (Australia) Pty Ltd, in an inner Sydney suburb of Zetland. The site was sold off for residential and industrial use some 20 years ago. Fortunately there are a few guys who worked for BMC during the 1950's and 1960's who meet a few times a year, and who visit interested car clubs to talk about their experiences, show photos of the cars being constructed etc. It's great that these guys are still around sharing their knowledge. There was... MORE
Nigel, I do not know the exact shipping costs but have heard in the neighborhood o f about US $1,000.00 Today in the SF bay area alone there are six 72 - 76 Midgets advertised for less than $1,000. A couple of those complete and very near running conditi on. One 73 body, less engine, for $200.00 not sure of the body condition. Needless to say the local economy is not that great and it's a buyers marke t at the moment, and the dollar is at a near all time low compared to the p ound. Don "Don... MORE
Its very true! I started out with a '78 1500. Now I have my 71' Sprite. I keep finding myself looking at pictures of a MK II. Those clean lines around the windscreen without quarter lights, those deep door pockets and lovely round top seats........And then people talk of the smoothness of the 1098 engine....I can feal the addiction growing! Of course I would really like a frogeye, but that is for a later stage in my regression! Guy "Guy Weller" 29850... MORE
Richard I am restoring a 65 Sprite and originally intended to use a new shell or at least the basic tub (no front wings, doors, bonnet or boot lid) to do this I would have had to modify the rear deck to suit the roadster hood. When my local supplier quoted me 1750 for the tub I changed my mind and set to work restoring the old body. All the panels are available and at least the Sprite will retain more of it's original metal (maybe not that much more) this way. If you re-hell a car you are... MORE
Well looked at it,then looked again the next week,and well l wanted them wheels for my 67 sprite,so l got it a 78 1500 there will be other bits on it l can use for my car, but will have a good engine and box for sale in a few weeks time 67000 miles from new, dam shame realy to break it but doors etc will fit mine,one wing has a bit of rot but the other side is fine,bumpers are the same very good,and yes before you moan at me l should restore it but doing this 67... MORE
