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G'day Jorge At first I thought the car was an Alvis. But the knock offs have me doubting. English and European cars with wire wheels tend to have smaller knock-offs holding on the wheels. The American cars of the same period tended to the large style as you can see on your pictures. There looks like there is a badge in the centre of the knock-off. Pity we don't have a picture of it! avagoodday - and avagood holiday regards Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 28116... MORE
even if it was, for example, one of those MGAs in a special order metallic paint colour that was NOT a catalogued colour, but nonetheless, came from the factory that way and was documented as such? David "David Jacobs" 28105... MORE
Hi Guy, Yes it is the full travel that is limitted. It is starting the normal distance from the floor, but it is stopping after 1". This seems to be just barely enough to disengage. I'll have to look into this circlip thing, since it appears to be the consensus. Thanks! "Kevin Odhner" 28090... MORE
If the 1inch travel is the full distance that the pedal is able to move through, this would be a BAD thing, And either: the pedal is starting very close to the floor before the clutch begins to disengage, or the pedal starts high, but is prevented from full travel by the slave cylinder piston hitting the circlip or other faults with the linkage. Guy "Guy Weller" 28087... MORE
David, Thanks. It's the windshield/windscreen that I'm addressing, and not the side windows which are okay. I have the complete assembly off the car, and as you noted, I removed the two securing bolts located on each side up under the dash. What a pain they were to get at. The top moulding retaining screws were removed, providing access to the glass encased in the bottom and sides. The seal around the glass was pulled out, and the glass removed. The frame to body seal seems crimped in place on the bottom (in the groove), and is a real... MORE
G'day Paul et al The travel at the slave cylinder end depends on: a.. the length of the clutch pedal from pivot point to the pedal pad (there are two lengths - bet you didn't know that) b.. the height of the pedal off the floor (which is adjustable on cars with dual clutch/brake master cylinders) c.. the amount of free play at the top of the pedal d.. the master cylinder bore size e.. the slave cylinder bore size f.. the amount of "lost movement" due to wear in bushes, clevis pins etc etc If you know answers... MORE
Which glass are you talking about? It sounds like it's the windshield/windscreen, so you need to take the complete assembly off the car then dismantle it. The securing bolts/nuts are hidden away up behind the ends of the dashboard. I'm not exactly sure how this looks on a late US spec car as the dash is definitely different from my 1974 UK car but the 'screen itself is the same. Don't foget the plate at the bottom of the centre rod, either. Once you've got the 'screen assembly off, you can remove the frame to body seal and you'll... MORE
G'day Kevin Aren't they rude, having a laugh at you like that!!!!!!!! I can understand it from Brad, but from Capt Bob, I am surprised! Shame on you Bob. Now to the topic. Kevin, are you measuring distance travelled at the pedal, or travel at the slave cylinder? If it's 1" at the slave cylinder end - then that's excessive. It's usually only about 1/2", so all is well. At the top end, the pedal should hit the floor - approx 4" away. 1" in and out (sorry, couldn't resist) is rediculous. But if your clutch pedal only travels... MORE
I'm replacing the seals and glass on my midget, and would like to inquire with someone who has been there and done that. Removal of the top moulding was easy. What are the tricks to the removal of one (or both) of the side mouldings in order to replace the glass and seal? I'm also replacing the windhsield to body seal while at it. Any tips for tackling that part would be greatly appreciated. VB lists a visor replacement kit. Interested in hearing reviews before purchasing. Thanks, Pete 78 midget Granville OH "Pete Skalski" 28051... MORE
Hi guys To continue the topic of front bumpers, albeit at a tangent, I recently too =3D=0D k my front bumper and both over-riders to a small (reasonably local) company that specialises in triple-chroming of car parts. Now whilst my front bumper I think is in 'reasonable' condition, it has sma =3D=0D ll amounts of pitting all over the chrome areas, and has some surface rust underneath, it is straight and has no dents or dings, aside from some small =3D=0D depressions where the over-riders fit. Likewise for the over-riders - prett =3D=0D y much in the same condition.... MORE
Sure, Nigel... Most especially in your case wherein you are doing an "original" car, I personally feel it pays to once bite the bullet because in the end, you will pay just as much if not more renewin "new" chrome parts until you get lucky enough to find a good one. Out of two pairs of "new" chrome BE bumperettes, I've gotten one good one that's lasted!! All others have gotten rust spots within one year, sometimes less! As in paint shops, EPA laws over here are driving rechroming prices out of sight. I'll probably go for one more... MORE
Subject: Re: Bugeye Group..... Re: The Originality Wars...another take A very interesting spin on the subject. It seems to put it more into perspective for me. I am not restoring a Bugatti here. And I have no interest in restoring a 1959 tract house (that sold for $15,000 new) back to its original condition with galvanized water pipes and a floor furnace. I like air conditioning, a modern kitchen, disk brakes, 5 speed, going faster etc. As well, I like the neighborhood, and the people who live around me, and the other people who drive LBC's and besides, they... MORE
I would think that a rebuild would be in order. I soaked mine in degreaser and rinsed with water. Then I bead blasted them and proceeded with the rebuild. Just be careful not to scratch up the piston and walls. They now have the familiar aluminum oxidation coat covering them again, but I am contemplating buffing them and clear coating. I know that they will still turn grey, but I think it might help prevent grease stains. "Trevor Jessie" 27990... MORE
You don't need any other reading material other than the 'bible'! And I've also heard problems of bonnet clearance with that manifold and a 1 =3D=0D 3/4 SU, you may have to make a 'bulge' in it - eek ! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27978... MORE
An LCB is an awful lot easier to fit to a Midget than a Mini. The only potential problem area is the hole where it has to go past the chassis rail; you might need to relieve the flange on one side to get the manifold to fit. The MG Metro inlet manifold will fit but there might possibly be carb/bonnet clearance issues (not 100% sure about this bit) There are several other alternative manifolds for a single 1" SU though, if this is a problem. Regards David PS reading recommendations should include David Vizard's 'Bible'! 27974... MORE
Many thanks for the replies. Yes, I realise that the system is the sum of its many parts. And I should have thought it through a little more as I am planning to fit an MGMetro head and camshaft. Now I'm thinking I need to fit the water heated inlet manifold also. So the question changes a little. How much hassle is it to fit an LCB in a midget. (In a mini we had to attack the bulkhead (firewall) with an 'ammer to create space) Is it possible to retain the metro inlet manifold , do I need... MORE
Mr Zappa, You should have a Zenith cd150 carb installed on your car if it is stll as originally equipped. These carbs have been trouble since the day they were installed new and only get worse as time goes on. As for the fuel leak. Look real close at the rubber hose where it attatchs to the carb body. Small hairline cracks frequently are found causing fuel to weep. Have someone crank it over and you watch right here for where the leak appears. Another possibilty is the auto choke (if installed) can be a pain in the a$$.... MORE
LOL, Nigel... I dunno...but whatever Mickey D.'s contains, it works for me so...watch out!! I'm a morning person, anyway. Pump in a bit of caffeine and I'm unstoppable.... and actually far more of a threat to the safety and well being of myself and all others concerned than I am later in the day. By 4PM I am ready for a nap and can be easily killed at that time while asleep for an hour or two. After 6 I get dangerous again for a few hours. My cat knows this and works around these hours in terms of... MORE
Hi, Alan... With respect to correctly sized LCB.... for the stock and/or short cammed engine (with largest Mickey D's in one hand and Vizard's book in the other) in a word NO, not in and of itself with respect to the stock engine, or even as part of a free flow system, unless you are cruising the highways at 70+ most of the time. For a trifle more power... The short 3-1 is better for fuel economy below the rpms associated with tooling around town and driving applications wherein rpm's associated with the above paragraph aren't likely to be... MORE
By now it should be obvious that I have a few days off and am spending them in the workshop, hence another quick question. Are 1098 and 1275 exhaust manifolds identical or is the 1275 version a little larger internally, and if the 1275 is a little larger internally would it fit on a 1098 and what effect would it have on performance? The reason I ask is that my project (65 Sprite ) has one of those performance enhancing three branch manifolds unfortunately the previous owner has hacked a lump out of one of the front chassis legs... MORE
David Regarding 'practicing' your welding skills, I agree 100% with you, I've just been through this process and I know where you're coming from. I also went through the 'thought' process of repairing my own ones, but for the reasons we've both realised - it just isnt worth it. I also made up a number of my own repair sections, for various reasons, but usually because I didn't want to hold up progress while I ordered the section and waited for it to arrive. One notable one was the passenger side lower A post hinge mounting. I used the... MORE
Nigel / Biff Thanks for the relies, I agree with you Nigel it isn't really worth mocking your own panels I spent a day making the riser brackets which I could have bought for 22 pounds. The main reason I make my own is to develop my metalworking and welding skills before I let myself loose on the important structural parts of my project car. The other advantage is that not all the repair panels are exact replicas of the original (even the good quality ones) either in exact design or metal thickness. I was very interested in Nigel's... MORE
Hah!! Fiat X1/9's are a blast to drive. So were their preceeding 850 Spiders. I owned a '75 and '77. Sweet rides. The '75 I had to return to the dealer for a refund. The guy's service was so bad he couldn't possibly fulfill the warranty/ guarantee that came as part of purchase price. A salesman's screw-up on the invoice covering the sale of the vehicle made the car illegal for use on public roads, thus voiding the sale of the vehicle as promised/equipped and paid for. The '77 I chose to sell when rust made it's initial appearance... MORE
Dave I also had to repair that area on my car recently, including putting in a new 'chassis mounting tube' to replace the original one that a bolt had seized in, and as they're high tensile steel, I could not drill it out. I simply cut out the mounting tube and refitted a new one - much easier. I also debated on whether to repair my old 'riser brackets', but felt on balance, bearing in mind the amount of work involved, it would be easier to just buy new ones, which I did. "amukdigiphoto" 27911... MORE
I am in the process of rebuilding a 65 Sprite and one of the small jobs I have just completed is replacing the rusted out riser brackets which extend the chassis to provide the anchorage points for the front bumper. Rather than buy the brackets I fabricated new ones using the old parts as a pattern. Before I removed the old brackets from the car I noticed that they poked through the front valance panel a bit too low and the two holes in the valance had been modified to accommodate this ( I put this down to the... MORE
