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David - No, the engine isn't in the correct/final placement just yet, just got excited and had to show somebody. I was thinking I was going to have to cut a radiused notch in top of the crossmember, but playing around last night I have it a little closer to finalized, I raised the motor about 1" and brought it forward (about 5-1/2") so the pulley is about 1/2" back from the steering rack. I plan to modify the oil pan to a flattened roadracing type, so the pan can be tucked up into the chassis. Hope to do... MORE
Guys - I know this was discussed a while back, but what is the stock body height of a Midget? Was looking for the distance from the ground to the bottom of the rockers? or even better would be the distance from the bottom of the framerails to the bottom of the stock oil pan, that is if it sticks below the frame at all? I will probable lower the car slightly from stock but needed someplace to start from, don't want to scrub the pan off. My car is stripped to the tub and I'm trying to figuring... MORE
Some bits are interchangeable - tail lights are the same, mirrors are similar, but Midget ones need an extra angled plinth to sit at the correct angle due to the different curvature of the door panel compared to the 'B. Headlamp bezels again are slightly different, but you can generally make B ones fit. Without knowing the spec of your car (North American? UK?) I wouldn't like to comment on the air filter interchangeability. Wiper switch will probably be a two speed for the B and only a single speed for yours but again could be made to fit.... MORE
I joined this group because I just got a 1977 Midget that to my supprise started after sitting in a pasture for 6 years. I fitted new tires and filled up the brake and clutch with fluid and I am on the road. There are a few pieces missing though...Like tail lights, mirrors, headlight bezels, air filter, and wiper switch. There are some of these items on ebay but the are for a 1977 MGB. What is the difference between an MGB and a Midget? Are many parts interchangeable? Thanks in advance, Cole "Cole Warren" 33277... MORE
Jens....STOP!!! Your chasing yourself in circles here. The variation in cooling temps with the mixture variations, along with appearance of the plugs and most of all, detonation/ pre-ignition (with octane changes thrown in for good measure) suggest the engine is operating on the borderline of self- destruction, in short time. Saving pennies on octane is extremely penny-wise, pound foolish. With a tuned unit utilizing high rpm's a good part of the time, "economzing" on octane can shortly become extremely expensive. Your "tuned" engine is an investment. Feed it a proper and appropriate "nutritional" diet. :):) May I suggest..... ...firstly,... MORE
Ed You'd need to explain to me what a 'tar top battery' is before I'd be interested in procuring one! (and before you go all smart *rse on me I'm aware that it must be a battrery - but what's tar top?) Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33213... MORE
Jens I told you it was well worn! The other spindle wasn't nearly as bad, but decided to replace the pair of them while I was doing it. Clean the carbs? Nothing more than elbow grease! I washed them down thoroughly several times with turps (kerosense) using an inch paintbrush and changing the turp's when it got too dirty. I then scraped off the gasket material with a stanley blade and rotary wire brush cleaned the gasket surfaces only. The rotary wire brush is too harsh for the soft metal casting surface of the carb itself and leaves scratches... MORE
Terry Since they improved the A1 Ferry Meadows has become a bit of a bugger to get to unless you know your way around Peterborough, you could at one time just turn off the A1 at Alwalton drive for a couple of miles and there you were. I think the easiest way, although maybe not the most direct would be as follows:- Travelling north on the A1 Take the slip road at junction 16 towards Yaxley, south of Peterborough At the roundabout at the top of the slip road take the third (or maybe fourth) exit marked Yaxley Follow... MORE
Just a note for the archives: If you need to buy hub caps for your Minilite replica wheels (such as Minator brand), the ones from Vicky Brit are plastic and don't fit, and the ones from Moss are metal (I think) and fit well. Just my experience. You will need to buy the MG logo stickers top the hub caps separately from Moss. Steve Steven Michelsen 33194... MORE
Sorry Bob but both the single and two speed wiper motors are 12v. Terry "terry.isherwood" 33163... MORE
Hi The 14W wiper motor was made in single speed and two speed versions. This is the round motor can type located under bonnet. Anyone changed their single speed wiper motor and switch for the two speed versions? I have the two speed wiper switch and a two speed 14W wiper motor. Someone told me the single speed motors only had 4 out of the 5 terminal positions fitted whereas the two speed ones had all 5 terminals present. Wrong. My old single speed motor had all 5 terminals fitted but not all connected. The two speed one has... MORE
Hi guys I was cleaning and reassembling my carb's today and noticed the needle was a D3, yet for normal mixture the standard needle is meant to be a AN. Can anyone shed any light or explain why this needle might be a D3 and not an AN and should I switch back to an AN needle? The engine is not modified in any way. Tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33149... MORE
Terry, This may be off topic, or it may not help at all, but an old VW trick solution to the 6 volt to 12 volt conversion with the wiper motor is to take a rheostat out of a wrecking yard. You know the headlight switch push pull and when you rotate it, it dims the dome light and the dash lights. Connect this to the wiper motor and then adjust (rotate) to any desired speed you want from fast to stop and anywhere in-between. Works great, is almost free and works on 6 or 12 volts. It may... MORE
Hi all, Is there a recommended torque setting for tightening down the nut on a front spindle to hold the disk brake rotor on? I have the old Brit Leyland ring-bound Spridget shop manual (circa 1970) and there's no torque spec in there. How tight is adequate, and how tight is too tight, i.e. shortening bearing life(?) or some other problem(?) Some background info for anyone patient enough to read - I've got the Frontline larger disc brakes installed, with all new wheel bearings, and yes, the bearing thrust orientations are correct. But seems like over the past year,... MORE
Anyone out there wanting a COMPLETELY rust free 79 Midget?? BTW, NO FINANCIAL INTEREST!! This is just too cheap to let go past without telling you guys. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2485001583 Ok, there is a bit of surface rust in the boot, between the spare the the rear panel, but the A pillars, rear wings, and front wings, are all in excellent shape. The floors are also nice and clean, the undercoating still all intact, not peeling anywhere that I noticed. As you all know, I don't normally seek out these cars, but....... I was out doing the yard sales today in... MORE
Hi guys I just got back from a vacation in Thailand. One day when I was driving on the street of Bangkok. I saw a yellow rubber bumper Midget in a showroom next to a Porsche 911. I didn't have a chance to go back and get more info on it. It was some Hi-end use car dealer I assumed, frome the line up of cars they have. That's something you don't see here :-). Also saw a beatiful Lotus Elise park in the building I stayed. I couldn't help walk by real close everyday. There is a MK... MORE
Don Non RB front springs would be springs for chrome bumpered cars! And if you're considering this option (which seems a reasonable option) don't forget the bolts that hold the A frame spring pans in place are high tensile steel, so if you need to get some longer ones, which you will do, get longer high tensile ones. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33107... MORE
Thanks Bob, A thought just came to mind. My stock 73 rwa is a full inch and a half lowe r than my 74, now with the bugeye bonnet. I think perhaps a PO installed ne w springs at some point on the 74 as they look fairly new which makes me wo nder if he installed later model springs by mistake. Would you, are anyone else on the list, happen to know what the actual length measurements of th e uncompressed springs are for the early chrome bumper midgets and for the later rubber bumper model midgets are... MORE
Hi guys, been a while since I posted last. My "Spridget" project, bugeye bonnet on a 74 rwa midget, is nearing completion and is actually on the road now. Still in its beautiful primer gray color :-) However . . . without the weight of bumpers, window mechanisms, wind wings, and lighter front end weight the body rides about two inches higher than I would like, in fact looks a bit strange because of the body hight. Would like to lower overall at least 1 1/2 - 2 inches. Would appreciate lowering suggestions. Anyone cut off the front spring... MORE
Don, You can lower the front buy installing non RB front springs and if that dosen't lower it enough put in spacers between the spring pan and the A-arm. Spacers can be made from some thick (1/4") wall pipe/tubing and longer mounting bolts. Cutting down the front springs would be my last resort. For the rear a spacer block between the axle and spring. The spacer would be a block the width of the spring with a locating stud on it's top to fit the upper spring plate and a hole in the bottom to clear/locate it on the... MORE
Nigel, To futher what Mr. San Diego offered, I have used a 2 ton come-along (hand winch?) to move the motor. My garage has a steel "I" beam instead of a 2 x 4 frame but the concept is the same. I have found this works rather well and is cheap. FYI-Midget motors are quite sturdy and survive falls well. Don't ask. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 33089... MORE
Nigel, You are welcome to mine, do you want to come and get it or should I bring it over to you... Cheers, Bob in San Diego P.S. In the past I have just taken a 4 by 4 and placed it under the ceiling in the proper spot and wedged a 2 by 4 under each end to hold it up. Could also make a simple 2 by 4 "A" frame at each end but that takes two more boards. The lump is not very heavy and the strength of a 2 by 4 when it is vertical... MORE
Could well be. I am really not bothered I was more interested in the fact that it was evidence that the front valanece on mine had been changed at some time in its earlier life, probably indicating some accident damage at some stage.. Whether it has pressings really makes no difference to me - you cannot see them anyway as I have the front number plate screwed directly to the valance anyway (no bumpers on my car) Guy "Guy Weller" 33075... MORE
Steve Thanks for your reply. I have managed to unseize the slave cylinder, I'll see how it 'scrubs up' before deciding to reuse it. Regarding the windscreen, are you referring to putting the windscreen on the body - or actually getting the rubber seal into the frame itself? I've managed to get the seal into the frame after the tip from Brad - it worked ok, hard on the thumbs tho! I now need a source for a pillar seal, as I have a new one for one side, but not the other and Moss say its now NLA!... MORE
Second that, buy a new one. The cost to PITA ratio here is to high to rebuild. I tried to respond to your question yesterday on fitting the seal for the windscreen from work, but I got bounced as the email address was not registered. What I did was place a piece of nylon mason's line under the windscreen then work it up against the seal pulling it into place. We tried other methods but this was the easiest, and did the least damage to the new paint. Steve Quandt "smquandt" 33039... MORE
