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Yes, Martyn...agreed. Assuming the cam is properly timed in in accordance with previous post, I would at this point expect an induction leak(s) of some kind. VP3 cam or not, the engine should be capable of reduced idle to the point the engine will quit, though in reality 1,000rpm is a more realistic setting with this cam and even then, it'll be pretty lopey, even in a 1275. Not a displeasing sound though, IMHO!! :) Spraying carb cleaner (be careful) in and around the induction system should tell the tale in this respect...the idle will immediately change if and... MORE
Rod Welcome to the list. As people have said before it could be either the steering rack or the kingpin thats causing your problem. Although in my opinion it's more than likely the kingpin thats causing it. Non-centering of the steering is a classic problem relating to worn/out of adjustment/non-lubricated kingpins, it is the fit of the kingpin that governs steering centering. Also, knowing how poorly maintained front suspensions are generally and how wear in them can affect steering, and you having just acquired this Midget, in my opinion its almost certain its wear in the kinkgpin assembly. The... MORE
Well... Sounds to me like you've got ignition timing mixed up with cam timing. The cam timing can be "staight up" or for a little heftier lower range at minimal expense to the top end, timed in no more than 4 degrees "advanced" per Vizard's recommendation. Assuming you are using a new timing chain, after initial chain "stretch" the cam will end up running 2 degrees advanced...perfect! For your application considering a small bore engine, and "long stroke" at that, I'd go "straight up" for the track, 4 degrees advanced for the road, most especially if you're planning to... MORE
"...all you can do is steer them in the right direction...." LOL......priceless, Nigel!! I recall when I could not get the toe to stay put on my '74 Midget when I first acquired it. After replacing tie rod ends, bearings, etc., I finally just broke down and replaced the whole suspension with new parts. And prior to this, it WAS "stiff" and while it became less stiff with much grease, it then became loose due to worn clearances, even as it became less stiff as we continued to grease it often. So diplomacy aside, it can be just as... MORE
The 1098 has a long stroke relative to its bore, so with VP3 cam I expect it would be more 'lumpy' running engine.Especially at low end of revs and not particularly a fast revving engine either (not knowing what else has been done to the engine of course) Don , Part Scotch , nah !!!. Scottish maybe but not Scotch, scotch is whisky !!! Depends on how much you have drunk over the years I suppose, then you could be part scotch !!! 8o) Jaeger , not English or ever made in England as far as I know, but... MORE
Rod... Nigel may be right (probably is because his reasons are sound) but, go the "inexpensive" Cap'n Bob's suggestion first because grease in the steering rack will cause the same symptoms of heavy steering and an unwillingness to self- center and it's a lot less expensive fix, in the event!! :):) There is nothing "wrong" with the front end suspension set-up other than it's rather "crude" but Nigel is absolutely correct in that premature wear is caused mainly by a lack of proper maintenance as in not following factory recommended lubrication schedules. And yes, the king pins (and everything... MORE
Well, Alan (good morning, BTW!)... The VP3 would be "more" of a cam in the smaller rather than larger bore engines. The shorter the stroke, the more "square" the engine, the more "revability", all else equal (BIG caveat.. the latter!:). So, the long bore stock 1098 wouldn't be a "revver" but man, it has got to be one of the smoothest of all Series A varients with it's "silky" exhaust note. Martyn's 1098 is "built" though. Friend of mine owns an XK140....huge Jaeger gauges....a good 4.5" I believe for tach and/or speedo. Good point on the red lights...which is... MORE
Hi, Rod...welcome. Can be either/or. You will notice on the steering rack that the lubricator nipple looks to be a regular grease nipple...well, it's actually a nipple for an OIL gun with the correct fitting, such as one would find at a Marine Supply Store. Most people don't realize this and grease the rack instead of "oiling" it. Not much of a problem in nice, warm summer weather but, as soon as it cools off, the steering becomes as you describe it (assuming it's just this and not kingpins, etc.). Normally, warming up the boots covering the rack than... MORE
I have just acquired a 1965 sprite and when driving the steering seems very stiff, and when cornering if I releases the steering wheel it does not return to center. Could this be a king pin problem or a steering rack problem. Thanks "roderick_ralph" 26297... MORE
Well...Bradster... The red light on the later Spridgets is supposed to be a "partial" fail light.... so I guess if it fails totally, you may or may not get the red light before impact!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26304... MORE
VP3 cam...oh, yeah!!! Martyn, this is about as hot as you can get for the road in a 1275 and still have decent low end for light to medium traffic. In your smaller 1098, it's almost a mild race cam! Hopefully, you have the larger main bearing "cc" engine because this cam's torque curve comes in at about 3200 on a 1275cc+ motor and will pull right through 7,000rpm with larger valves and 1.5 rollers. On my 1340, it would idle very nicely at about 1,000rpm (nice "lopey" sound) and behaved very well using a 45DCOE with a Weber... MORE
Rick writes, in part, "Does the owner's manual contain suggestions...." LMAO! In the SAAB 340 I flew the "red" hydraulic light (steering, landing gear and flaps) came on when you had lost all your "main" hydraulic fluid. The emergency action item for this event was "Hydraulic Pump Switch to OFF (from AUTO) which was hilarious as at 3,000psi, you could never in a million years get to the switch in time....a completely useless red light if there ever was one!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26295... MORE
Alan 16? My goodness, that seems a lot. What's the generally accepted norm for number of coats of top coat? Also, what was the purpose for finishing off with 'nearly neat thinnners' ? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26278... MORE
After suffering the indignity of being pelted by acorns by red squirrels and freak summer rains I bought a "porta garage" now on sale at Harbor Freight for a hundred off. now $149.00. It is a white metal frame affair covered on all sides with silver tarp material and a zip entrance on one end. 8'10" wide by 16' 9" long . . . just right for a Spridget and a few feet around it. Now I have head protection and a dry place to work when it rains. I forgot to say the height . . . it... MORE
The job is in the Prep work, I agree My dad used to put 16 coats of cellulose on when he was restoring. Rubbing down between each coat and finally finishing the spraying with nearly neat thinners. I haven't got his patience but I'm still too much of a perfectionist , so for the final top coats , I have done the prep work, I'll probably just go with a two pack and get someone else to do it. At least that will give as good base to work on which also means any flaws can be flatted out... MORE
"...the job is in the prep...." Correctomundo, Mssr. Holmes... Any imperfections in this respect will "show through" the best of paints in short order, once the paint "flows" and "settles". I picked up a Peterson book on painting and followed the directions using pro equipment in a buddy's "spray booth". This was acrylic enamel with poly hardner. First try...excellent job. But, the prep took the better part of 3 months working evenings and a good part of weekends. It came out beautifully and lasted for many, many years in daily driving...ice, snow, salt...the works. I have also had excellent... MORE
couple of years? what on earth for? did they get it wrong the first four times?! David The car 4 & the Hardtop 5. Yes, runs, chips, runs, bubbling, picking up the hardtop when wet with dirty hands, & 1 on the hardtop, my fault by my putting car cover on to keep neighbors cat off the car & top when the top wasn't cured enough and temp. got to 95. "Robert Webb" 26231... MORE
David I sympathise, I've been there. My current restoration efforts are at the second attempt. I did start working on the car about 13 years ago and welded in the new inner and outer sill and footwell side panel and had the new floor in position but not welded. I soon found other distractions and never went back to it! I only really, early this year, garnered the enthusiasm to get back to it. The only inspiration I can offer is to think of the car as 'sections of work' rather than an entire mass of 'things to do'.... MORE
I have a restored 60 Bugeye that I bought from a P.O. that had stripped, primmered the body, and installed the disc brakes, rear end, and brake system(new), had the engine, transmission, rear end rebuilt, bought ALL NEW chrome and glass for the car. I am self employed at an obscene hourly wage, so I don't work very much ($100.00 hr), so I had my car painted and then I assembled, re- painted, Bought & painted hardtop, re-painted car, repainted car & hardtop, in 14 months with a total cost (me + P.O.) of 18,000 in parts and labor... MORE
Nigel, Couldn't agree more. Concours isn't worth the effort. Like you, I bought my car to drive. I've loved LBC's since I was a kid. I actually bought and drove a '69 Triumph GT6+ when I was 19 and have been hooked ever since. Had to sell it after 9 months for the college fund but I sure wish I had it today. Unlike you however, I always planned a non-original car. In my opinion, driveability is somewhat compromised by MG technology which is a polite way of dissing Lucas. My best improvement to the car was dumping the... MORE
Colin at sprite parts wrote I happen to have a brand new 12G295 head, still in the BMC wax paper. So I measured it for you. It is exactly 2.754" thick. So, That means it's just inside the drawing tolerance of 2.75" +/- 0.005" However,Colin The depth dimension of the combustion chamber - could you give us a dimension of this please. ,( which is more critical to find out out if the engine face has been machined) In fact any dimensions for a brand new head would be useful. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I include part of an email I sent... MORE
Rob That reminds me of the old irish joke (apologies to those Irish folks on the list) which goes something like this - Paddy's walking along the road and happens upon Mick coming towards him on the other side, Paddy waves to Mick and says 'Top o the morning to ya Sir, could ya be telling me the best way to be getting ta Limerick' Mick rubs his chin for a moment and replies 'Well Sir, if I were you, I wouldn't be startin from here' The moral being, if you want to enter and win Concours events, you... MORE
Hi guys Quick update on the restoration progress. At last ! ! ! ! I've been able to put some colour gloss on the underside, can't describe how pleased I was to finally see some colour going on after so long. The car is currently lying prostrate on its side while I put the colour on the top half. I shall turn it over and paint the bottom half very soon. The intention is, to get the underside finished, then re-assemble the suspension components and get the car movable on its wheels. I'll then be able to wheel it... MORE
While we are discussing side curtains, I got the weather seals and the front corner has come apart. What glue will put it back together and hold. I have tried tire patch glue with a patch behind the / and it still comes apart. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26165... MORE
Also the aluminum frames can be polished while you have everything off. They are aniodized and can also be re-aniodized after polishing to minimize future scratches. A company specializing in plastic can also make the windows. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26164... MORE
